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Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Sadie Benitez

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Real talk - once you see code 150, look for cycle code next to it. That can tell you what day of the week updates happen for your account. Major šŸ”‘ to watching your transcript!

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wait what's a cycle code? where do i find that?

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Sadie Benitez

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its that string of numbers next to the 150. first two digits tell u processing day - 05 is thursday updates, 02 is monday etc

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Zoe Wang

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Code 150 is definitely one of the most important ones to understand! It's basically the IRS's way of saying "we've processed your return and here's what we calculated." The date next to it shows when they finished processing, and the amount shows your total tax liability. From there you can track if you have credits, payments, or refunds coming by looking at the other transaction codes that follow. It's like the foundation that everything else builds on!

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Javier Gomez

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This is super helpful! I'm new to all this tax stuff too and was wondering - after code 150, how long does it usually take to see other codes show up? Like if I'm expecting a refund, should I be checking daily or is there a pattern to when things update?

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Just wanted to mention that recreating a depreciation schedule isn't necessarily super expensive. I'm surprised your new tax pro is making a big deal about it. When I switched accountants, mine recreated 8 years of depreciation schedules for about $150. They said it was pretty straightforward since residential rental property typically uses straight-line depreciation over 27.5 years. You might want to ask for a specific quote before assuming it'll be expensive. Also worth considering is that you'll need this documentation whenever you sell the property to properly calculate your adjusted basis and depreciation recapture, so it's an investment in proper record keeping.

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Tate Jensen

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$150 seems really cheap. My accountant quoted me $375 to recreate a depreciation schedule for just one property that I'd owned for 5 years. I wonder if there's a big difference in complexity between properties or just in what different preparers charge?

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Diego Chavez

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I'm a CPA and this situation is unfortunately more common than it should be. Your previous preparer was absolutely required to file Form 4562 if they were claiming depreciation on your rental property - there's no way around it in legitimate tax software. What likely happened is one of two scenarios: 1) They were filing the form but just not giving you copies (which is still poor practice), or 2) They were manually entering depreciation amounts without properly completing the required schedule (which is concerning from a compliance standpoint). Before paying to recreate everything, I'd strongly recommend requesting your complete tax return transcripts from the IRS first. You can do this online through the IRS website or by calling them. The transcripts will show exactly what forms were filed with your returns. If Form 4562 was actually filed, you can request complete copies of your returns including all schedules. If the forms weren't filed properly, then yes, recreating the depreciation schedule is necessary and worth the investment. Just make sure your new preparer gives you copies of everything going forward - you should always have a complete copy of your tax return including all schedules and supporting documentation.

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Make sure you file a statement with your joint return! My husband is on a J1 and I'm a citizen - we file jointly and have to include a statement that says "XXX [non-resident spouse name] and YYY [US citizen spouse name] are making the election to file a joint tax return pursuant to section 6013(g) of the Internal Revenue Code for the tax year 2023." You sign and date it and attach to your 1040. If you don't include this statement, the IRS might reject your return or question your filing status later! We learned this the hard way lol.

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Nia Williams

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Thank you so much for mentioning this! I had no idea about needing to include a statement. Do you just type this up on a regular piece of paper and attach it? Or is there an official form for this?

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There's no official form for this statement - just type it up on a regular piece of paper. Make sure to include both your names, Social Security Numbers (or ITIN for the non-resident spouse), the tax year, and both signatures. If you're filing electronically, you'll need to mail this statement separately to the IRS address where you would normally send paper returns. Keep a copy for your records too. Some tax software might have an option to generate this statement for you, but many don't, which is why it's commonly missed.

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Layla Sanders

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I went through this exact situation two years ago when I was on a J1 visa and my husband was a US citizen finishing his PhD with minimal income. After running the numbers both ways, we definitely saved money filing jointly. The key things that made filing jointly beneficial for us were: 1. Higher standard deduction ($25,900 vs $12,950 for married filing separately) 2. Access to education credits for my husband's tuition expenses 3. Potential eligibility for other credits like the Child Tax Credit if you have kids However, you'll need to be aware that by filing jointly, you're electing to be treated as a US resident for tax purposes, which means: - You'll report your worldwide income (not just US income) - You may lose certain tax treaty benefits available only to nonresidents - You'll need to include the election statement that others mentioned I'd strongly recommend calculating your taxes both ways before deciding. Also, don't forget that if you file jointly, your spouse will need an ITIN if they don't have an SSN. The whole process was actually smoother than I expected once I understood the requirements!

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Ella Cofer

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Is anyone here familiar with whether theres any tax benefit to donating some of these kinds of collections instead of selling? I heard something about being able to deduct the full value if you donate to a museum or something?

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Kevin Bell

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Yes! Donating to a qualified museum or nonprofit can let you deduct the full fair market value of collectibles, which might be better than paying the 28% collectibles tax if you're in a high tax bracket. But you need qualified appraisals and proper documentation - it's not as simple as just dropping them off.

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One thing to keep in mind is the holding period for inherited assets - since you inherited these baseball cards, they're automatically considered "long-term" regardless of how long you actually hold them before selling. This means you'll qualify for long-term capital gains treatment (which for collectibles is that 28% max rate Luis mentioned) even if you sell them right away. Also, if you're planning to sell the entire collection, consider spreading the sales across multiple tax years if the amounts are substantial. Since collectibles are taxed at that higher 28% rate rather than the preferential rates for stocks, managing the timing of sales can help with tax planning, especially if it keeps you in lower overall tax brackets. Make sure to keep detailed records of each sale - the IRS likes to see documentation for collectible transactions, so track the specific items sold, sale prices, and your basis in each piece. Good luck with those home renovations!

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Natalie Adams

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This is really helpful advice about the automatic long-term treatment! I had no idea that inherited assets get that benefit regardless of how long you hold them. The tip about spreading sales across tax years is smart too - I never would have thought about that but it makes total sense given the higher 28% rate on collectibles. Do you know if there's a minimum threshold where the IRS starts paying more attention to collectible sales, or do they scrutinize all of them pretty closely?

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Chloe Martin

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I'm dealing with the same frustrating situation! My deposit date was 3/5 and still nothing. What's really confusing is that the IRS website makes it sound like these dates are set in stone, but clearly there's a lot more complexity behind the scenes. I've been checking my account obsessively every few hours, which probably isn't helping my stress levels. It's reassuring to see I'm not alone in this - seems like March deposits are hitting some kind of bottleneck this year. Has anyone noticed if certain banks are more reliable than others for getting these deposits on time?

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Miguel Ramos

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I totally get the obsessive account checking! I'm new here but going through the exact same thing with my 3/5 deposit date. From what I'm reading in this thread, it sounds like March might just be a particularly busy time for the IRS processing system. I've noticed some people mentioning that bigger banks like Chase or Bank of America tend to process ACH transfers faster, while smaller credit unions sometimes take an extra day. Have you tried calling your bank's customer service to see if they can at least confirm whether they're expecting an incoming deposit? Sometimes they can see pending transactions before they actually post to your account.

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I'm going through the exact same thing right now! My deposit date was also 3/5 and I'm still waiting. It's so frustrating when you're counting on that money for bills or other expenses. From reading through all these responses, it sounds like delays are pretty common this time of year. I've learned that the NETSEND/DEEPBLUE system has multiple processing stages that can each add delays. What I found helpful was checking my transcript to make sure there's a code 846 (refund issued) with the 3/5 date - if that's there, then at least we know the IRS did their part. Now it's just a waiting game with the banking system. Hang in there, it should show up in the next day or two based on everyone else's experiences!

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