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If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

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Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
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  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Amina Diop

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I'm an accountant and handle this situation all the time with clients. Here's a simple checklist for unused LLCs: Federal: If single-member (disregarded entity), no separate federal filing needed. If multi-member or elected corporate taxation, file returns showing zero activity. State Income Tax: Varies dramatically by state. Some require returns regardless of activity. State Franchise/Privilege Tax: Many states charge these regardless of income (CA's $800 minimum is notorious). Annual Reports: Often required by Secretary of State offices regardless of activity. Honestly, between state fees, franchise taxes, and filing requirements, an unused LLC usually costs more trouble than it's worth. I typically advise clients to dissolve unused entities and form a new one when they're actually ready to start the business.

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NightOwl42

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Thank you for laying this out so clearly! I think I'll probably just dissolve mine since I'm not going to use it anytime soon. Sounds like it's just going to be a money drain otherwise.

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Anna Stewart

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As someone who went through this exact situation last year, I'd definitely recommend getting professional advice before making the dissolution decision. I almost dissolved my unused LLC thinking it was just costing me money, but my accountant pointed out that if I planned to start any business in the next few years, keeping it might actually save money in the long run. Formation fees, registered agent costs, and the time to set everything up again can add up. Plus, some states have "shelf life" restrictions where you can't reuse certain business names for a period after dissolution. If you're truly done with business plans, dissolve it. But if there's any chance you'll want to start something in the next 2-3 years, it might be worth keeping and just staying compliant with the minimal requirements.

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Sophie Duck

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That's a really good point about the shelf life restrictions! I hadn't thought about that at all. Do you know if there's a typical timeframe most states use for name restrictions after dissolution? I'm in Illinois and was leaning toward dissolving, but now I'm wondering if I should just bite the bullet and pay the annual fees to keep it active since I might want to start something in a year or two.

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Liam McGuire

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Has anyone actually received their money faster from SBTPG? I keep seeing complaints but wonder if there are success stories too. I've been looking at their BBB page and the complaints are pretty consistent about the delays. But are these just the vocal minority?

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Nia Thompson

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I can share a success story! My refund went through SBTPG last month and it was actually pretty quick. They received it on a Wednesday morning around 10am (I checked their portal obsessively) and I had the money in my Chime account by Thursday at 3pm. So about 29 hours total, which matches what others have said about the 24-48 hour window. I think the key is that it was mid-week with no holidays - I've heard weekends and federal holidays can add extra delays. The waiting is still nerve-wracking when you're expecting that money, but at least in my case they delivered within their stated timeframe.

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Thanks for sharing a positive experience! It's reassuring to hear that SBTPG can actually stick to their promised timeframe. I'm in a similar situation right now - my refund hit SBTPG yesterday morning and I'm anxiously checking both their portal and my Chime account every few hours. Your timeline gives me hope that I should see something by tomorrow afternoon. Did you get any notification from SBTPG when they released the funds, or did the money just show up in Chime without warning?

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Ava Williams

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One other option: if your tax software allows it, you can adjust the amount reported in Box 3 directly rather than adding a separate line item. I use TurboTax and they have a section for adjusting 1099-INT amounts specifically for accrued interest purchased.

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Does anyone know if H&R Block software has this option? I've been looking all over their interface and can't find anything about adjusting for accrued interest on treasuries.

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Grace Lee

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I've been dealing with treasury bonds for years and want to clarify something important that might help avoid future confusion. When you buy treasuries in the secondary market, always check the "accrued interest" line on your purchase confirmation BEFORE completing the transaction. The accrued interest is essentially paying the previous bondholder for the interest they earned while holding the security. When the next interest payment comes, you'll receive the full amount even though you only earned part of it - that's why you need to deduct what you paid upfront. For tax reporting, yes your 1099-INT will show the full interest payment in Box 3, but you absolutely should deduct the accrued interest you paid at purchase. List it on Schedule B as "Accrued Interest Paid on Treasury Securities" with the amount as a negative number. Also, losing money on a treasury isn't that uncommon if you buy at a premium in the secondary market. The capital loss (difference between what you paid excluding accrued interest and what you received at maturity) goes on Schedule D and can offset other gains or up to $3,000 of ordinary income. Pro tip: if you want guaranteed returns, consider buying treasuries directly from TreasuryDirect.gov at auction to avoid paying premiums and accrued interest complications.

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This is incredibly helpful, thank you! I had no idea you could buy directly from TreasuryDirect to avoid these complications. I'm definitely going to look into that for future purchases. Quick question - when you say "buy at auction," does that mean I have to compete with other bidders, or is there a way to just buy at whatever the accepted rate ends up being? I'm not trying to time the market or anything, just want simple, safe returns without all this accrued interest headache.

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NebulaNomad

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Dont forget to think bout qualified housing fringe benefits where employers can provide housing tax-free to employees if its on premises and for the employers conveneince. We do this for our properrty managers and maintenance staff and its a huge benefit that doesnt get taxed. Also look at 'de minimus' benefits the IRS allows for temporary housing when relocating employees. I think its 30 days thats considered non-taxable if its for a job-related move.

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The qualified housing fringe benefit is pretty limited though. I tried to use this for our tech employees in San Francisco and got shut down by our tax advisors. It really only works if housing is literally required to do the job, not just helpful.

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Summer Green

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One thing to keep in mind is the reporting complexity difference between these benefits. Housing assistance programs require careful tracking of fair market values, proper W-2 reporting across multiple boxes, and often quarterly adjustments if you're providing ongoing housing subsidies. Compare that to signing bonuses which are straightforward - just report as wages with standard withholding. Stock options have their own complexity but at least the rules are well-established and most payroll systems handle them automatically. I've found that the administrative burden of housing programs is often underestimated. You need systems to track occupancy, calculate fair market rent values annually, handle employee turnover mid-program, and deal with various state tax implications that can differ significantly from federal treatment. That said, if you're in a competitive hiring market for specific roles, housing assistance can be a real differentiator that candidates value more than equivalent cash compensation. Just make sure you budget for the ongoing administrative costs and have clear policies for edge cases like employees who relocate again or change roles within the company.

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Yara Sayegh

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This is such a helpful breakdown of the administrative complexity! I'm just starting to research benefits options for our growing startup and hadn't really considered the ongoing operational burden. When you mention "quarterly adjustments if you're providing ongoing housing subsidies" - could you elaborate on what triggers those adjustments? Is it just fair market rent changes or are there other factors? Also, do you have any recommendations for payroll systems that handle housing benefit tracking well? We're currently on a pretty basic setup and it sounds like we'd need to upgrade if we go this route.

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Zoe Gonzalez

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Nobody's mentioned the education exclusion for savings bonds! If you use the I-Bond proceeds for qualified education expenses, you might be able to exclude the interest from your income completely. It's subject to income limits, but worth looking into if you or a dependent has education expenses.

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Ashley Adams

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That's a good point but I think it only applies to EE bonds and I bonds if they were issued after 1989 and you're at least 24 years old when you bought them. Plus there's income limits like you mentioned. But definitely worth checking if you qualify!

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Zoe Gonzalez

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You're right about those requirements. To clarify: the bonds must be issued after 1989, the bond owner must be at least 24 years old when the bonds were purchased, and they must be used for qualified education expenses for yourself, your spouse, or a dependent. The income limits for 2024 start phasing out at modified adjusted gross income of $91,850 for single filers and $137,800 for joint returns. It's completely phased out at $106,850 and $167,800 respectively. And this only applies to the interest portion, not the penalty discussion.

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Mei Liu

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This is such a common source of confusion! I went through the exact same thing last year when I had to cash in some I-Bonds early for an emergency expense. The key difference that helped me understand it is this: with CDs, you actually earn ALL the interest throughout the term, but then the bank takes some back as a penalty. That's why it shows up as income and then gets deducted. With I-Bonds, the Treasury literally just stops paying you interest for those last 3 months - you never "earn" it in the first place. Think of it like this: if you work 10 hours but your boss docks 2 hours pay as a penalty, you can deduct that penalty. But if you only work 8 hours to begin with, there's nothing to deduct. That's essentially what's happening with I-Bonds vs CDs. One thing to double-check though - make sure you're reporting the I-Bond interest correctly. If you didn't get a 1099-INT from Treasury (they only send them if you redeem $600+ in a year), you'll need to calculate the interest yourself using the redemption value minus what you originally paid.

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Nia Williams

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That's a really helpful analogy with the work hours! I think I finally get it now. So basically with my I-Bonds, I should just report whatever interest I actually received (the redemption value minus what I paid), and there's no separate penalty line to worry about. Just to make sure I understand - if I bought $1,000 in I-Bonds and redeemed them for $1,050 after 2 years, I'd report $50 as interest income and that's it? No other forms or deductions related to the "lost" 3 months of interest?

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