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Ask the community...

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Chloe Martin

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Document EVERYTHING before you make any moves! Save all emails, text messages, take screenshots, keep copies of the incorrect return and any marketing materials they gave you (especially if they "guaranteed" bigger refunds). Take photos of their office/signage too. This will all help your case whether you go to the IRS, small claims, or try to dispute the charge. I learned this the hard way when trying to get my money back from a sketchy preparer.

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Diego Rojas

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This is really good advice. I won a small claims case against a preparer last year because I had saved all our text messages where he admitted to "taking some liberties" with my deductions. The judge was not impressed with his "creative accounting" techniques.

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I'm sorry you're going through this - tax preparer issues are incredibly stressful! You've gotten some excellent advice here. I'd especially emphasize filing that amended return (Form 1040-X) as soon as possible to correct those questionable deductions. The IRS tends to be more understanding when you proactively fix errors rather than waiting for them to find them. One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is checking if your state has a Taxpayer Advocate Service office. They're independent from the IRS and can help if you're experiencing significant hardship from tax problems. Since you're worried about potential audits and penalties from the preparer's mistakes, they might be able to assist you in navigating the process. Also, when you do report the preparer using Forms 14157 and 14157-A, include as much detail as possible about their practices - especially that comment about "maximizing refunds" by claiming deductions you didn't authorize. That kind of pattern is exactly what the IRS looks for when investigating preparers. Stay strong - you're taking all the right steps to protect yourself!

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Amina Toure

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Thank you for mentioning the Taxpayer Advocate Service! I had no idea that existed. As someone new to dealing with tax issues like this, it's really helpful to know there are resources beyond just calling the main IRS line. Does the Taxpayer Advocate Service cost anything to use? And do you need to meet certain criteria to get their help, or can anyone contact them when having problems with tax preparers?

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The Taxpayer Advocate Service is completely free! It's funded by taxpayer dollars and designed to help people navigate complex tax situations. You generally need to show that you're experiencing "economic hardship" or that normal IRS procedures aren't working for your situation - which sounds like it could apply here given the stress and potential financial impact of your preparer's mistakes. You can contact them directly through their website or by calling 1-877-777-4778. They have local offices in most states and can assign you a case advocate who will work with you throughout the process. Given that you're dealing with unauthorized deductions that could lead to penalties or audit issues, they might be able to help you coordinate the amended return process and ensure everything gets handled properly. It's definitely worth reaching out to them, especially if you start feeling overwhelmed by all the forms and procedures everyone has mentioned!

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I'm dealing with a similar UTMA situation right now and this thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm 29 and just discovered my parents set up an account that should have been transferred to me 8 years ago. One thing I'd add is to check if your state has an unclaimed property database. Sometimes when custodians don't transfer accounts at the age of majority, the funds eventually get turned over to the state as unclaimed property. It's worth searching your state's unclaimed property website with your name and SSN just to be sure. Also, for anyone worried about the family relationship aspect - I found that approaching it from an educational standpoint helped. Instead of demanding the transfer, I presented it as "I learned that this is how UTMA accounts work legally" and asked for their help in understanding the tax implications. Made it feel collaborative rather than confrontational. The tax basis issue mentioned above is huge too. My account had reinvested dividends over 20+ years, so establishing the cost basis for all those small purchases was a nightmare. Definitely start gathering those records early in the process!

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Raj Gupta

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The unclaimed property angle is brilliant - I never would have thought of that! Just checked my state's database and thankfully nothing there, but it's definitely something everyone should verify early in the process. Your collaborative approach sounds much smarter than the confrontational route. I'm dreading having this conversation with my own parents, but framing it as seeking their guidance on the legal requirements rather than demanding control makes so much sense. Did you find they were more receptive when you presented it that way? Also completely agree on the dividend reinvestment complexity - that's going to be a major headache to sort through decades of small transactions. Did you end up using any specific tools or methods to reconstruct all those cost basis calculations?

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StarSeeker

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This is such a comprehensive thread - really wish I had found resources like this when I was dealing with my own UTMA transfer nightmare last year! One thing I'd add that helped me immensely: if you're planning to use the funds for a home purchase, look into whether your state offers any first-time homebuyer programs that might help offset some of the tax impact. Some states have programs that allow you to defer or reduce capital gains taxes if the proceeds are used for a qualified home purchase within a certain timeframe. Also, since you mentioned launching your own business, you might want to consider whether any of the funds could be strategically used for business purposes rather than taking everything as personal income. Business investments and expenses are treated differently for tax purposes and might help manage your overall tax liability. The timing aspect is crucial too - since you're expecting higher income this year, you might want to work with a tax professional to model out different scenarios. Sometimes it makes sense to realize some gains in a lower-income year even if you don't need the cash immediately, just to lock in the lower tax rate. Great job being proactive about this at 27 - many people don't discover these accounts until much later!

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Carmen Diaz

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The Child Tax Credit can definitely be a significant benefit - up to $2,000 per qualifying child under 17. Since your nephew is 16, he would qualify if you can claim him as a dependent. There's also potentially the Child and Dependent Care Credit if you're paying for childcare while you work. One thing to consider is that these tax benefits can be substantial enough that it's worth having a clear conversation with his parents about who should claim him. If you're providing the majority of his support and he's living with you for more than half the year, you have a strong case. But getting that written agreement beforehand (like others have mentioned) will save everyone headaches later. You might also want to track your expenses carefully - not just obvious things like food and clothing, but also your increased utility bills, transportation costs for getting him to school/activities, and even entertainment expenses. All of that counts toward the support calculation and helps strengthen your position if there are any questions later.

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Adriana Cohn

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This is really helpful information about the Child Tax Credit! I hadn't thought about tracking all those smaller expenses like increased utilities and transportation costs. That makes sense that it all adds up to the total support calculation. One question - when you mention getting a written agreement with the parents, is there a specific format that works best? I want to make sure I cover all the bases since this could potentially save me $2,000 in tax credits. Should I include specific dollar amounts of support or just general acknowledgment of the living arrangement?

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Mei Chen

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Based on your situation, you should be able to claim your nephew as a dependent! Since he's been living with you continuously since April, that's about 9 months of the tax year, which definitely meets the "more than half the year" residency test. For the support test, you need to consider ALL expenses - not just the cash his parents send. This includes the fair rental value of his room, utilities, food, clothing, medical expenses, school costs, transportation, and even entertainment. The money his parents give you counts as THEIR support contribution, but when you add up housing costs, utilities, food, and everything else you're providing, you're likely well over the 50% threshold. A few important tips: 1) Document everything - keep receipts and track expenses, 2) Get a written agreement from his parents stating they won't claim him (even a simple signed letter works), and 3) File your taxes early to avoid any conflicts if they accidentally try to claim him too. Since he's 16, you'd also qualify for the Child Tax Credit (up to $2,000), which makes this even more worthwhile. Just make sure to communicate clearly with his parents about the arrangement so everyone's on the same page come tax time!

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Amina Bah

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This is a really complex situation that depends heavily on which depreciation method you've been using! Since you mentioned tracking mileage meticulously, I'm curious - have you been using the standard mileage deduction or actual expenses (including depreciation) for your current vehicle? If you've been using standard mileage, your tax situation when selling will be quite different from what some others have described. The standard mileage rate includes a depreciation component (around 27 cents per mile in recent years), so your adjusted basis would be your original cost minus the total depreciation embedded in all those standard mileage deductions over 6 years. However, if you've been claiming actual depreciation and the car is fully depreciated as you mentioned, then yes - you're looking at significant depreciation recapture taxed as ordinary income when you sell. For the new $38,000 vehicle, switching to actual expenses could be beneficial since you'd be able to claim bonus depreciation or Section 179 expensing. Just remember that once you switch to actual expenses for a vehicle, you can't go back to standard mileage for that same car. Given the amounts involved here, I'd strongly recommend consulting with a tax professional before making the purchase. The timing of when you sell the old car versus buy the new one, plus which depreciation method you choose going forward, could save or cost you thousands in taxes.

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This is exactly the kind of comprehensive analysis I was looking for! I have been using the standard mileage deduction for all 6 years, so you're right that my situation is different from those who've been taking actual depreciation. Let me see if I understand this correctly - with standard mileage at roughly 27 cents depreciation per mile, and I've driven about 15,000 business miles per year for 6 years, that would be around $24,300 in total depreciation embedded in my standard mileage deductions. If I originally paid $32,000 for the car, my adjusted basis would be around $7,700, meaning my taxable gain on a $9,500 sale would only be about $1,800 rather than the full $9,500? That's a much more manageable tax hit! And switching to actual expenses for the new vehicle to capture that bonus depreciation sounds like it could be worth it, especially on a $38,000 purchase. I'm definitely going to consult with a tax professional before proceeding, but this gives me a much better framework for those discussions. Thanks for clarifying how the standard mileage method affects the calculation!

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Omar Farouk

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You're absolutely on the right track with your calculation! Yes, with standard mileage deduction over 6 years, your adjusted basis would be significantly higher than someone who fully depreciated their vehicle using actual expenses, which means a much smaller taxable gain. One additional consideration I'd mention - when you switch to actual expenses for your new vehicle, make sure you're prepared for the record-keeping requirements. You'll need to track not just mileage, but also maintenance, repairs, insurance, registration fees, and all other vehicle-related expenses. It's more work than standard mileage, but with a $38,000 vehicle and current bonus depreciation rules, the tax savings should make it worthwhile. Also, don't forget that your business use percentage (80% in your case) applies to all these deductions. So on that $38,000 vehicle, you'd be looking at bonus depreciation on about $30,400 of the purchase price, which could provide substantial first-year tax savings to offset your gain from the sale. The timing strategy others mentioned is spot-on too - selling early in the year and purchasing late in the year maximizes your depreciation deduction in the year of sale. Good luck with the upgrade!

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Nalani Liu

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This whole thread has been incredibly helpful! As someone new to business vehicle ownership, I'm amazed at how complex the tax implications can be. I'm actually in a similar situation as the original poster - I've been using my personal car for freelance work and tracking mileage using the standard deduction, but I'm thinking about buying a dedicated business vehicle soon. Reading through all these responses, it sounds like I should definitely consider using actual expenses from the start with a new vehicle to take advantage of bonus depreciation, especially if I'm buying something in the $30k+ range. One question though - for someone just starting out with actual expenses, are there any common mistakes to avoid? The record-keeping sounds intimidating, but the potential tax savings seem worth the extra effort. Also, is there a minimum business use percentage that makes actual expenses more beneficial than standard mileage?

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Don't forget about filing for a tax extension if your return isn't going to make it by the deadline! Form 4868 gives you until October to file your actual return. You'll still need to pay any taxes due by the regular deadline, but at least you won't get hit with the failure-to-file penalties. I had to do this last year when USPS lost my return entirely. The extension form can be filed online even if you can't e-file your full return.

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But if OP is expecting a refund, there's no penalty for filing late anyway, right? I thought the penalties only apply if you owe money.

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@22 is right - there's no penalty for filing late if you're due a refund. The only downside is that you have to wait longer to get your money back. But you have up to 3 years to claim a refund before you lose it completely.

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Nia Thompson

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Based on all the helpful advice here, it sounds like you have multiple issues working against you. The incomplete ZIP code (missing -0002) combined with the fact that Fresno may not even be processing individual returns anymore means your return is probably stuck in postal limbo. I'd recommend taking Mohammad's advice and double-checking the current filing address for California refund returns - sounds like it should be going to Ogden, UT now instead of Fresno. When you resend, make sure to include the complete ZIP+4 code and mark it clearly as "COPY - ORIGINAL SENT [DATE]" as Eva suggested. The good news is that since you're expecting a refund, you don't have to worry about late filing penalties. You can take your time getting this sorted out. But definitely get a new copy in the mail soon with the correct address so you can start the 4-6 week processing clock ticking. Also, for next year, try to get that PIN issue resolved with TurboTax/IRS so you can e-file and avoid all this mailing drama!

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This is such a comprehensive summary of all the issues! I'm new to filing taxes and had no idea that ZIP+4 codes were so important for IRS deliveries, or that they actually change processing centers. Really appreciate everyone sharing their experiences here - it's helping me understand what to watch out for when I mail my return next week. Quick question: if the IRS processing centers change, do they usually update their website instructions right away, or is there sometimes a lag?

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