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One other tip from another F1 student: for state residency in FreeTaxUSA, after selecting "non-resident," make sure you're only reporting income that was earned in that specific state. The software should limit taxation to state-source income, but sometimes you need to verify this manually. In my case, I had a summer internship in a different state from where my university is located. Had to file as a non-resident in both states, but only report the income earned in each respective state.

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That's helpful - I did have a paid campus job at my university in Massachusetts, but I also did some freelance work online for a company based in California. Should I be filing in both states then?

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Yes, you'll likely need to file in both Massachusetts and California. For Massachusetts, report only your campus job income. For California, you'll need to determine if your freelance work counts as California-source income (it often does if the company is based there, even if you performed the work in Massachusetts). FreeTaxUSA can handle multi-state returns, but you'll need to be careful about allocating the income correctly. And select "non-resident" for both states since you're an F1 student in your first five years in the US.

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Amara Adebayo

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As someone who went through this exact same confusion last year, I completely understand your frustration! The lack of clear guidance for international students in tax software is really frustrating. Based on what others have shared and my own experience, you should definitely select "non-resident" for Massachusetts. Since you're on an F1 visa and have only been in the US for 15 months, you're considered a non-resident alien for federal tax purposes, and Massachusetts generally follows that determination. One thing I learned the hard way is to double-check that FreeTaxUSA is only taxing your Massachusetts-source income (like your campus job) and not trying to tax any income from other sources. The software should handle this automatically when you select non-resident, but it's worth verifying. Also, don't forget about Form 8843 that someone mentioned - it's required for F1 students even if you don't owe any taxes. FreeTaxUSA can help you prepare it, but you have to look for it specifically in the foreign income section. Good luck with your filing! The first year is definitely the most confusing, but it gets easier once you understand your status.

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Kylo Ren

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$600 is absurd for your situation. I do taxes professionally and would charge around $250-300 max for what you described. Multiple states adds complexity but not THAT much. The IRA distribution is literally just entering info from a 1099-R and checking a few boxes about exceptions.

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Not all preparers are the same though. Some have higher overhead if they're at a physical office vs working from home. Location matters too - prices in big cities are WAY higher. And some firms charge by form rather than by situation.

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Max Knight

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As someone who's been through a similar situation, I'd definitely get a second opinion on that $600 quote. That seems really high for your circumstances. I moved from Illinois to Texas mid-year and had to deal with multi-state filing plus some retirement account complications. Ended up going with a local CPA who charged $275 total. The key is finding someone who specializes in multi-state returns - they can usually handle these situations efficiently since they see them all the time. Before you commit to paying $600, I'd suggest calling around to 2-3 other preparers for quotes. Also ask specifically about the medical exception for your IRA withdrawal - if it was truly for emergency medical costs, you might be able to avoid the 10% early withdrawal penalty entirely, which could save you way more than the difference in prep fees. Don't let anyone pressure you into paying more just because your situation has a few moving parts. Multi-state returns are pretty common, especially in college towns where students move around a lot.

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Darcy Moore

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Does anyone know if modifications to increase a vehicle's GVWR would work for Section 179 purposes? My truck is rated at 5850 lbs GVWR, but I could install heavier duty springs to get it over 6000.

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Dana Doyle

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Don't do this! I tried something similar and had my deduction denied during an audit. The IRS looks at the manufacturer's original GVWR from the factory, not modified specs. Aftermarket modifications don't count for changing the GVWR for tax purposes, even if they physically increase the capacity.

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Yara Khoury

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This is a great question that trips up a lot of business owners! As others have confirmed, it's definitely GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) that matters for Section 179, not the actual curb weight. For your Chevy Colorado ZR2 at exactly 6000 lbs GVWR, you're good to go! The tax code specifies "more than 6,000 pounds" in some places but the actual requirement is "at least 6,000 pounds" - so right at 6000 qualifies. One tip from my experience: take a photo of that door jamb sticker showing the GVWR before you drive the truck off the lot. Sometimes those stickers fade or get damaged over time, and you'll want clear documentation for your tax records. Also grab a copy of the manufacturer's spec sheet that shows the same number. The distinction between GVW and GVWR confused me for months when I was truck shopping for my construction business. Glad to see others clarifying this - it really can make or break a purchasing decision when you're talking about potentially $20K+ in first-year deductions!

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Liam Duke

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This is incredibly helpful! I'm actually dealing with this exact scenario right now. Just bought a Ram 1500 for my plumbing business and was panicking because I couldn't find clear guidance anywhere. The dealership kept telling me different things about weight ratings. Your tip about photographing the door jamb sticker is brilliant - I wish I had thought of that before picking up my truck last week. Luckily I can still go back and get a clear photo. Do you know if the manufacturer's website specs are considered acceptable documentation, or does the IRS specifically want the physical sticker photo? Also wondering - did you run into any issues during tax filing with vehicles right at the 6000 lb threshold? I'm always worried about triggering audits when I'm right at the edge of qualification requirements.

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Don't forget to check the math yourself! I had a similar situation and it turned out the IRS actually calculated correctly - I had missed a tax credit I was eligible for when I did my amended return. Pull out all your documents and try to reverse-engineer their math. Sometimes what looks like an error is actually them finding something in your favor that you didn't claim.

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This is so true! The same thing happened to me last year. I thought the IRS made a mistake with my refund but when I checked line by line, they had correctly applied an additional child tax credit I didn't realize I qualified for. Their systems sometimes catch these things automatically.

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As someone who's dealt with IRS overpayments before, I'd echo the advice about not spending the extra money and being proactive about contacting them. One thing to keep in mind is that the IRS has up to 3 years to identify and request repayment of overpayments, and they will charge interest from the date you received the refund. When you do contact them, ask specifically for them to put a note in your account that you called to report the potential overpayment. This creates a paper trail showing you acted in good faith, which can be helpful if there are any disputes later about interest or penalties. Also, make sure to keep detailed records of everything - copies of your original return, amended return, the CP24 notice, the refund check, and any correspondence. If this does turn out to be an error, having all the documentation organized will make the resolution process much smoother. The silver lining is that dealing with this proactively now is much easier than trying to sort it out years later when memories are fuzzy and documents might be harder to find.

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Rami Samuels

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This is excellent advice about documentation and creating a paper trail! I'm curious though - when you say the IRS has up to 3 years to identify overpayments, does that clock start from when they sent the refund or from when you received it? And is there any difference in how they handle interest if you proactively report the issue versus if they discover it on their own later? I'm asking because I want to make sure I understand the timeline implications before I decide whether to call immediately or wait a bit to see if they send any follow-up notices explaining the larger amount.

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Has anyone tried using the "Nutshell" series? I heard the "Federal Income Tax in a Nutshell" is pretty good for beginners who want to understand the basics without getting overwhelmed.

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Anita George

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I used that in law school! It's a great starter book that gives you the big picture concepts. It won't make you a tax expert, but it's perfect for understanding how different pieces of the tax code fit together. The explanations are clear and they use simple examples.

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I'd add "Understanding Federal Income Taxation" by J. Martin Burke and Michael K. Friel to this great list of recommendations. It's specifically designed for people who want to understand tax law conceptually rather than just follow mechanical rules. What sets it apart is how it uses flowcharts and visual aids to break down complex concepts like the realization requirement, basis adjustments, and like-kind exchanges. The authors do a fantastic job explaining the policy rationale behind different tax provisions, which really helps you understand WHY the code works the way it does rather than just memorizing what it says. It's updated regularly and strikes a nice balance between being comprehensive enough for serious study but accessible enough that you won't need a law degree to follow along. The practice problems at the end of each chapter are also really helpful for testing your understanding.

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