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4 I think an important factor nobody's mentioned is FUTURE plans for the app. If you intend to keep developing it, adding features, or creating more apps, the IRS would likely see this as an ongoing business activity rather than a hobby. One advantage of filing as self-employed now is that it establishes a pattern if your app income increases in the future. It's easier to start as self-employed and stay consistent than to switch from hobby to self-employed when profits increase.
I'm dealing with a similar situation with my freelance graphic design work that I do occasionally on weekends. Based on everything I've read here and my own research, it really seems like the profit motive test is key. The fact that you deliberately switched your app from free to paid shows clear intent to generate profit, even if the amount is small. That's probably the strongest indicator that this should be treated as self-employment rather than a hobby. I'd also consider what you plan to do going forward. Are you going to keep the app paid? Might you develop other apps? Even small actions like adjusting pricing or promoting the app could further demonstrate business intent. The expense deduction issue is huge too. Losing the ability to deduct that $125 developer fee means you're essentially paying taxes on income you didn't actually receive after expenses. That seems fundamentally unfair and not what the tax code is designed to do. I think I'm leaning toward Schedule C for my own situation after reading all these responses. Better to establish the pattern now while everything is well-documented and straightforward.
I completely agree with your analysis about the profit motive test being key here. The deliberate switch from free to paid really does demonstrate business intent, regardless of the amount earned. Your point about establishing the pattern early is smart too. I've seen situations where people try to switch classifications later and it creates complications with the IRS. Starting with Schedule C when you have clear documentation (the developer fee, Apple's commission statements, etc.) makes everything much cleaner. The expense deduction issue you mentioned is exactly right - paying taxes on $170 when you only netted $45 after the developer fee just doesn't make sense from a tax policy perspective. Schedule C ensures you're only taxed on actual profit, which seems much more fair and accurate.
This is such valuable information! I had no idea about the amended return option for energy credits. For anyone gathering documentation, I'd also recommend checking with your local utility company - they sometimes keep records of energy efficiency rebates or incentives that can help prove your improvements qualify for the tax credits. Also worth noting that if you financed any of these improvements through a specific energy efficiency loan program, those lenders often maintain detailed records of qualifying equipment that could serve as backup documentation if your original receipts are missing. One thing I learned the hard way - make sure to check if your state offers additional energy efficiency tax credits that stack with the federal ones. Some states have their own programs with different qualification requirements, so you might be leaving even more money on the table!
Great point about checking with utility companies! I never thought about that angle. My electric company actually sent me a letter years ago congratulating me on my energy efficient heat pump installation and mentioning rebates - I wonder if they'd have records of what specific model I got installed. The state credit stacking is interesting too. Do you know if there's a good resource to check what's available by state? I'm in Colorado and have been focused on just the federal credits, but if there are state ones too that could be significant additional savings.
For Colorado specifically, you'll want to check out the Database of State Incentives for Renewables & Efficiency (DSIRE) at dsireusa.org - it's the most comprehensive resource I've found for state-level energy credits and rebates. Colorado actually has some pretty good programs, including rebates through Xcel Energy and other utilities that can stack with federal credits. Your utility company definitely keeps detailed records of rebate programs and qualifying equipment. I'd call their energy efficiency department directly - they're usually really helpful and can often email you documentation of past rebates or even just confirm what equipment you installed if it was part of their program. Some utilities also have online portals where you can look up your participation in past rebate programs. Also worth checking with your county and city - many local governments have their own energy efficiency incentive programs that people don't know about. The combination of federal, state, utility, and local incentives can really add up!
Just to add another perspective on documentation - if you're missing receipts but have bank statements or credit card records showing payments to contractors, that can work as backup documentation. I successfully claimed energy credits on an amended return using bank records plus the manufacturer's certification documents that came with my heat pump. One thing to keep in mind is that the IRS is generally more concerned with proving the equipment actually qualifies for the credit (energy efficiency ratings, proper certification) than having perfect receipts. If you can demonstrate through any combination of documentation that you purchased qualifying equipment and it was installed in your primary residence during the tax year you're claiming, you should be good. Also, don't forget that some improvements like smart thermostats or certain water heaters might qualify that people don't always think of as "energy efficient improvements." It's worth reviewing the full list of qualifying equipment for each tax year you're amending - you might find additional credits you hadn't considered!
This is really helpful! I'm new to this community and just discovered I might be eligible for energy credits I never claimed. Quick question - when you say "manufacturer's certification documents," where exactly do you find those? Are they something that comes with the equipment when you buy it, or do you have to request them separately from the manufacturer? I installed a new HVAC system last year but I'm not sure if I have the right paperwork to prove it qualifies for the credit.
@Lucas Turner Great question! The manufacturer certification documents usually come with the equipment when you purchase it, but they re'often buried in the paperwork that most people toss. Look for any documents that mention tax "credit certification, ENERGY" "STAR certification, or" specific efficiency ratings like SEER ratings for HVAC systems. If you can t'find the original certification, you can usually download it from the manufacturer s'website using your model number. Most major HVAC manufacturers have dedicated tax credit sections on their websites where you can search by model and download the IRS-required certification forms. You can also call their customer service - they re'used to these requests and can email you the documentation. For HVAC systems specifically, you ll'need documentation showing it meets the required efficiency standards like (16 SEER for central air conditioning .)The key is proving your specific model qualifies, not just that the brand generally makes qualifying equipment. Keep the model and serial numbers handy when you re'looking this up!
I can relate to the anxiety of waiting! I just went through this same process last month. Filed through TaxAct on a Tuesday evening and got accepted Wednesday afternoon - about 18 hours total. One thing that helped manage my expectations was realizing that the IRS systems have scheduled maintenance windows (usually Sunday nights) where processing can be delayed. So if you file on certain days, it might take the full 48 hours just due to timing. For what it's worth, once my return was accepted, the refund came surprisingly fast - 9 days with direct deposit. The Where's My Refund tool updated to "Approved" on day 6, then "Refund Sent" on day 8, and the money hit my account the next morning. My advice: set a phone reminder to check the status once per day at the same time, then forget about it. The constant checking just makes the wait feel longer! Your $2,300 should be in your account within two weeks of acceptance if everything goes smoothly.
Thanks for sharing your timeline - that's really reassuring! I didn't know about the Sunday night maintenance windows, that's super helpful context. I actually filed on a Sunday so that might explain why I'm still waiting after several hours. Setting a daily reminder instead of obsessively checking is great advice. I've already checked the status like 15 times today and it's driving me crazy! Going to try your approach and just check once each morning with my coffee. Hopefully I'll see some movement in the next day or two.
I'm experiencing the exact same thing! Filed through TurboTax about 6 hours ago and keep refreshing the IRS2Go app hoping to see it move from "Return Received" status. It's so nerve-wracking when you're expecting a decent refund! From what I've read in the comments here, it sounds like the timing really varies based on when you submit and whether you hit their batch processing windows right. Some people get lucky with the timing and see acceptance within minutes, while others wait the full 48 hours even with identical situations. The batch processing explanation makes so much sense - explains why there's such a wide range in acceptance times. I'm going to try to follow the advice here and limit myself to checking once per day instead of every hour. Easier said than done though when you're planning around that refund money! Hopefully we both see movement soon. Keep us posted on how long yours takes!
I'm dealing with something similar but mine's a bit more complicated - I forgot to include a 1099-R from an old 401k rollover that had taxes withheld. The additional tax owed is only about $45, but I'm worried because it involves retirement account reporting. Based on what everyone's saying here, it sounds like waiting for the original refund to process first is the safer bet for small amounts. My concern is whether retirement account discrepancies get flagged differently than regular dividend income. Does anyone know if 1099-R matching happens on the same timeline as other 1099 forms? Also really appreciate the practical advice from the tax preparer - knowing that the matching typically doesn't happen until late summer gives me some peace of mind about the timing.
From what I understand, 1099-R forms are actually processed through the same document matching system as other 1099 forms, so the timeline should be similar. However, retirement account discrepancies might get a bit more scrutiny since they involve withholding and potential penalties. For your situation with the 401k rollover, the IRS will see both the distribution and the taxes that were withheld. If you properly reported the rollover but just missed including the form, the main issue would be the missing withholding credit rather than unreported income. This could actually work in your favor since you might be entitled to a larger refund once corrected. I'd still recommend the same approach - wait for your original refund, then file the amendment. The $45 difference is small enough that penalties would be minimal even if they catch it first. Just make sure when you amend that you're properly claiming credit for the taxes that were withheld from the distribution.
I went through this exact scenario two years ago with a missed 1099-DIV that would have added about $32 to my tax liability. I was so anxious about it that I initially planned to file an amendment immediately, but after reading similar discussions and talking to a CPA friend, I decided to wait for my original refund to process first. Here's what happened: I got my refund in about 2.5 weeks as expected. I then waited another month before filing the amended return (Form 1040-X) to pay the additional $32. The amendment was processed smoothly about 12 weeks later with no penalties or issues. The key thing that gave me peace of mind was understanding that for small amounts like yours, the IRS is much more focused on people who are significantly underreporting income or trying to avoid taxes entirely. A $28 difference on a return where you're getting a $6.5k refund clearly shows you're not trying to cheat the system. My recommendation would be to let your original return process, get your refund, and then file the amendment within a few months. The IRS appreciates voluntary compliance, and you'll avoid the potential delays that come with amended returns going through manual review. Just keep good records showing when you discovered the error and when you corrected it.
Finnegan Gunn
Does anyone use a specific tax software that's good for handling these RMD issues? I've been using TurboTax but it didn't prompt me about my RMDs at all!
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Miguel Harvey
ā¢I've had good experiences with H&R Block's software for RMD issues. It specifically asks about inherited IRAs and walks you through the RMD calculations. TaxAct is also decent for this specific situation and a bit cheaper.
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Anna Stewart
I'm dealing with a similar situation but mine is even more complicated - I missed RMDs for TWO years on my inherited IRA because I didn't even know I was supposed to be taking them! Just found out when I was organizing my finances for tax season. Has anyone successfully gotten penalty waivers for multiple missed years? I'm terrified about the potential penalties stacking up. My financial advisor said I should take all the missed distributions immediately and file Form 5329 for both years, but I'm worried the IRS won't be as forgiving for a two-year oversight. The amounts aren't huge (maybe $800 total across both years) but at 25% penalty that's still $200 I really can't afford right now. Any advice on how to approach this with the IRS?
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Rita Jacobs
ā¢I can definitely understand how overwhelming this must feel! The good news is that the IRS has actually become more lenient about multiple-year RMD penalties, especially when there's genuine confusion about the requirements. Your advisor is right about taking all the missed distributions immediately - that's crucial. For the Form 5329s, you'll need to file one for each year you missed. In your explanation letter, emphasize that you genuinely didn't understand the inherited IRA requirements and that you took corrective action as soon as you discovered the oversight. The fact that you're proactively addressing this before the IRS caught it works in your favor. Many people have successfully gotten multi-year penalties waived when they can show it was an honest mistake and not willful neglect. Document everything - when you discovered the error, when you took the distributions, etc. Also, consider that even if they don't waive the full penalty, the IRS sometimes reduces it significantly for first-time offenders who show good faith compliance efforts. $200 in penalties is certainly worth fighting for!
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