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I've been dealing with a similar situation for my marketing LLC. One thing that helped me was setting up a simple tracking system to document the inactive period. I created a basic spreadsheet noting when business activity stopped, any final expenses (like closing out subscriptions), and when I filed the final quarterly payment before going dormant. This documentation became really useful when I filed my annual return because I could clearly show the IRS the timeline of when the business became inactive. It also helped me remember exactly when to restart quarterly payments if/when I reactivate the business. Another tip - if you have any recurring business expenses (software subscriptions, business phone lines, etc.), make sure to actually cancel them rather than just letting them sit unused. These ongoing expenses could complicate your "zero activity" status and you'd still need to report them as business deductions even during inactive periods.
That's really smart advice about documenting the inactive period! I wish I had thought of that when my business went dormant. Having a clear timeline would have made filing so much easier. Your point about canceling recurring expenses is spot on too. I made the mistake of letting a few software subscriptions run for months after I stopped working - totally forgot about them. Even though they were legitimate business expenses, it meant I couldn't claim "zero activity" and had to report those expenses on Schedule C. Would have been much cleaner to just cancel everything upfront and have a true zero activity year. For anyone reading this - also check for any automatic renewals on business insurance, domain registrations, or professional memberships. These can sneak up on you and complicate your inactive status if you're not careful.
This is such a common confusion for LLC owners! You're absolutely right to question whether quarterly payments are needed during inactive periods - they're not required if there's no income to report. However, I'd strongly recommend getting clarity on your specific situation before assuming you can skip everything. The filing requirements can vary based on how your LLC is classified for tax purposes and your state's rules. A single-member LLC has different requirements than one elected to be taxed as an S-Corp, for example. One thing that caught my attention in your post is that you mentioned you were "previously making estimated quarterly tax payments." If you had significant tax liability in prior years, you might still need to make payments to avoid underpayment penalties, even during inactive periods. The IRS has safe harbor rules that sometimes require payments based on prior year taxes. I'd suggest reviewing your previous year's tax liability and checking if you fall under any safe harbor payment requirements. Also, don't forget that even inactive LLCs often need to file annual returns to report the lack of activity - it's counterintuitive but true in many cases. Getting professional guidance for your specific situation might save you from surprises down the road!
This is really important information about the safe harbor rules! I hadn't considered that prior year tax liability could still trigger quarterly payment requirements even during inactive periods. Just to clarify - are you saying that if I had a significant tax bill last year when my LLC was active, I might still need to make quarterly payments this year even though there's zero income? That seems counterintuitive but I want to make sure I understand correctly. Also, when you mention getting professional guidance, do you think it's worth the cost for what seems like it should be a straightforward situation? I'm trying to balance being thorough with not spending more on tax advice than I would potentially save by getting it right.
Another option if you're still stuck is to check with your tax preparer or CPA if you used one during the years around when you purchased the stock. Sometimes they keep copies of old tax returns that might have records of dividend income from that stock, which could help establish when you owned it and potentially give clues about your purchase timing. Also, don't forget to check your old bank statements if you still have access to them online. Many banks keep records going back 7+ years, and you might find the withdrawal or transfer that funded the stock purchase. Even if it doesn't give you the exact cost basis, it could help narrow down the purchase date and amount, which you can then cross-reference with historical prices. The key thing is to document whatever method you use and keep records showing you made a good faith effort. The IRS is generally reasonable about these situations when you can show you tried to find the actual information.
This is really helpful advice! I never thought about checking old bank statements. I actually still have access to my old Chase account online and they do keep records going back quite a while. Even if I can't find the exact purchase amount, knowing the approximate date would be huge for looking up historical prices. The point about documenting your methodology is so important too. I've been worried about getting in trouble with the IRS, but it sounds like as long as you show you made a reasonable effort, they understand these situations happen with older investments.
I went through something very similar about two years ago with an old Fidelity account. What ended up working for me was a combination approach that might help you too. First, I contacted Schwab's customer service and specifically asked to speak with someone in their "account reconstruction" department - apparently they have specialists who deal with exactly these kinds of missing cost basis issues from acquisitions. The regular customer service reps couldn't help, but this specialized team had access to more historical TD Ameritrade data than what shows up in your online account. When that didn't get me everything I needed, I used the IRS's own guidance from Publication 551. They actually have a section that covers "Unknown or Indeterminable Cost" and provides a framework for making reasonable estimates. The key is being able to show you made a good faith effort to find the actual information. I ended up creating a simple spreadsheet documenting: 1) All the places I looked for records, 2) The approximate timeframe I remembered buying (even if it was just "sometime in 2011-2012"), 3) Historical price data from that period, and 4) My reasoning for the estimate I used. I attached this as a statement with my tax return. The IRS never questioned it, and my CPA said this approach shows due diligence while being conservative about not understating the tax owed. Much better than using zero and overpaying significantly.
This is exactly the kind of detailed, methodical approach I was looking for! I had no idea Schwab had an "account reconstruction" department - that's incredibly helpful to know. I'm definitely going to try calling and specifically asking for that department instead of just general customer service. Your spreadsheet documentation method sounds really smart too. Having that kind of paper trail showing all the steps you took would definitely give me more confidence when filing. Did you end up having to mail in a paper return with the attached statement, or were you able to e-file somehow with the documentation? I'm also curious - when you looked at historical price data for your estimated timeframe, did you use the average price for that period, or did you pick a specific date? I'm trying to figure out the most defensible approach for my situation.
Has anyone successfully resolved this error by creating an IRS online account? I've heard sometimes you can pull your exact AGI from their transcript system.
YES! This is exactly what worked for me. I created an account on IRS.gov and downloaded my tax transcript from last year. The AGI on that transcript was actually different than what showed on my saved PDF copy of last year's return (no idea how that happened). Used the transcript number and my return was accepted immediately.
I had this exact same reject code last week and it was driving me crazy! After reading through all these suggestions, I ended up trying the IRS transcript approach that Carmen mentioned. Created my online account at IRS.gov and pulled up my 2023 tax transcript - turns out the AGI I had been using was off by exactly $1! Must have been a rounding error somewhere. Used the exact number from the transcript and my return was accepted within minutes. Definitely recommend checking your transcript first before trying the other methods - it's free and might save you a lot of time and stress. Thanks everyone for all the helpful advice in this thread!
That's such a relief to hear you got it resolved! A $1 difference causing a rejection seems so frustrating, but I'm glad the transcript method worked. I'm actually dealing with a similar situation right now - got the same IND-507-01 code yesterday. Did you have any trouble setting up the IRS online account? I've heard the identity verification process can be tricky sometimes. Also wondering how long it took for the transcript to show up once you created the account? Thanks for sharing your success story - gives me hope that this might be simpler than I thought!
I just went through this exact same situation last month! Got the 2802C letter and was terrified at first, but it turned out to be totally routine. The verification call took about 20 minutes once I got through to an agent, and they were actually really helpful and patient with all my questions. One thing that helped me prepare was having my prior year AGI handy - they asked for that right away. Also, don't worry if you can't remember every single detail from your return - they understand that people don't memorize their tax forms. They'll work with you to verify your identity through multiple data points. My refund was released about 2 weeks after the verification call, much faster than the 9 weeks they initially quoted. The whole experience was way less scary than I expected. You've got this!
That's really reassuring to hear! I was worried I'd made some mistake on my return that triggered this, but it sounds like it really is just a routine security check. Did they give you any indication of what specifically flagged your return for verification? I'm curious if it was random or if certain things make you more likely to get selected.
I actually just dealt with a 2802C letter myself about 6 weeks ago, and I can totally understand the panic! The whole thing ended up being much more straightforward than I expected. A few practical tips that helped me: First, gather ALL your documents before calling - not just what's listed in the letter. I also had my W-2s and 1099s ready just in case. Second, when you call, be prepared to answer questions about specific line items from your current AND prior year returns. They asked me about my total income, withholdings, and even some of the deductions I claimed. The agent was actually really professional and walked me through each step. They explained that my return was flagged because I had a significant change in income from the previous year (got a new job with higher pay), which can trigger their fraud detection systems. One thing nobody mentions - after verification, you can ask them to put notes on your account about why you were selected. This can help prevent future unnecessary verifications. My refund came through in exactly 18 days after the call, so definitely faster than their quoted timeframe. Don't stress too much - this really is just the IRS being extra careful with taxpayer refunds, which is actually a good thing for all of us!
Zainab Ismail
Has anyone had this issue with H&R Block software specifically? Mine keeps giving me an error when I try to enter both companies, saying the name doesn't match the EIN in their database. I'm wondering if I should just go with a tax professional at this point.
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Connor O'Neill
β’I used H&R Block last year with a similar setup. You need to put ONLY the PEO name in the employer name field, then in the street address field, put your actual company on line 1 of the address and the real street address on line 2. It looks weird but that's how the software wants it.
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Andre Lefebvre
I went through this exact same situation with my PEO W-2 from Insperity last year. The key thing to remember is that the IRS matching system is looking for the EIN to match the primary employer name listed first on the W-2. In your case, "PEO Services LP" should go in the employer name field exactly as shown, because that's what matches their EIN in the IRS database. Your actual workplace "Acme Industries LLC" is listed underneath as additional information, but it's not what the IRS system uses for verification. I made the mistake of trying to "correct" it the first time and got a rejection notice. Once I re-filed with the PEO as the primary employer name (exactly matching the W-2), it went through without any issues. The tax software warnings are there for a reason - they're trying to prevent mismatches with the IRS database. Don't overthink it - just enter it exactly as it appears on your W-2 and you'll be fine!
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