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one thing nobody mentioned is that if ur over the roth ira income limits, doing traditional 401k contributions can actually help you get under those limits! this was a huge benefit for me cuz at $115k you're right near the phaseout range for roth ira contributions. by putting in traditional 401k $, you lower your MAGI which could let you still contribute directly to a roth ira instead of having to do backdoor conversions. this adds another benefit to going traditional with your 401k!

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Alexis Renard

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This is a great point. For 2025, the Roth IRA phase-out starts at $146,000 for single filers. So if the OP is making $125k, maxing their traditional 401k would drop their MAGI to around $102,500, well below the phase-out range. It's a strategic two-for-one benefit: tax savings now PLUS the ability to fund a Roth IRA directly. Definitely worth considering in the overall strategy.

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One thing that might help you make this decision is to also consider your employer's vesting schedule and matching policy. If your company has a generous match, you definitely want to capture that free money first before worrying about traditional vs Roth. Also, since you mentioned you're deciding between maxing out pre-tax vs just getting the match and doing backdoor Roth conversions - remember that you can actually do both! You could max out your traditional 401k (getting those tax savings now) AND still do a backdoor Roth IRA conversion for an additional $7,000 since your income is above the direct Roth IRA limits. This gives you the best of both worlds: immediate tax relief from the 401k contributions, plus additional tax-free growth from the Roth IRA. At your income level, this combined strategy could be really powerful for long-term wealth building.

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Emma Thompson

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This is really helpful advice! I'm new to all this retirement planning stuff and didn't realize you could do both strategies at the same time. Just to make sure I understand correctly - you're saying I could put the full $22,500 into my traditional 401k to get the tax savings, AND separately contribute $7,000 to a Roth IRA through the backdoor conversion method? That would be $29,500 total retirement savings per year which seems like a lot but also really appealing if I can swing it financially. Do you know if there are any income limits or other restrictions I should be aware of when doing both of these together?

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Myles Regis

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Be careful with dependent care FSAs - they're typically "use it or lose it" by the end of the plan year! I set aside $5000 last year and then our childcare situation changed (my mother-in-law retired and started watching the kids 3 days a week). We only spent about $3200 on paid childcare and LOST the remaining $1800 we had contributed! Still kicking myself over that one. Make sure you're very confident about your childcare expenses before committing to the full $5000.

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Brian Downey

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Some plans offer a grace period though! My company's FSA gives until March 15th of the following year to use funds. Worth checking if your plan has this feature.

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Great question! I went through this exact same analysis last year. At your income level ($165k), you're definitely in a tax bracket where the Dependent Care FSA makes financial sense. Here's what I learned: The Child Tax Credit ($2,000 per qualifying child) is completely separate from childcare expenses and won't be affected by using the FSA. You'll still get the full $4,000 for your twins regardless. The FSA saves you taxes on that $5,000 contribution - at your income level, that's probably around $1,200-1,500 in tax savings depending on your state taxes. Since you're spending way more than $5,000 on daycare anyway, you're guaranteed to use the full amount. The "hassle" factor was my biggest concern too, but honestly it's pretty minimal. Most employers have mobile apps now where you just snap photos of receipts and submit them. I probably spend 10 minutes total per quarter on FSA paperwork. One tip: make sure to ask about your plan's grace period or rollover rules. Some plans let you carry over a small amount ($610 this year) or give you extra time to spend the money. Definitely worth maxing it out in your situation!

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CosmicCowboy

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This breakdown is really helpful! I'm curious about one thing though - you mentioned the FSA saves around $1,200-1,500 in taxes at the $165k income level. Is that calculation based on federal taxes only, or does it include state taxes too? We're in a state with income tax, so I'm wondering if the savings would be even higher than that estimate. Also, do you know if the FSA contribution affects your AGI for other tax benefit calculations?

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I'd suggest getting a formal appraisal before making the final decision between selling vs. donating. If the dress truly has a fair market value of $2,500-3,000 (which seems reasonable for a $5,400 dress in perfect condition), and if your fiancΓ©e has other itemizable deductions that would push her over the standard deduction threshold, the tax benefit could be meaningful. But here's something to consider - if she's facing $13k in capital gains, that puts her in a higher tax bracket where charitable deductions provide more benefit. A $2,500 deduction could save her $550-625 in taxes (22-25% bracket) versus maybe getting $1,000-1,500 from a sale after months of trying. Also, don't forget about state tax benefits if your state allows charitable deductions. The combined federal and state tax savings might actually exceed what you could realistically get from selling it at this point. One more tip: if you do donate, consider doing it early in the tax year so you have time to make additional charitable donations if needed to maximize the itemized deduction benefit.

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Amina Toure

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This is really helpful analysis! I hadn't thought about the higher tax bracket angle - that definitely makes the donation more attractive than I initially realized. Quick question though - when you mention getting a formal appraisal, is that something we'd need to pay for upfront? And would that appraisal cost eat into the potential tax savings? Also, do you know if the timing of the donation within the tax year actually matters for the deduction, or just that it happens before December 31st?

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Tate Jensen

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I've been through a similar situation with high-value donations and capital gains, so I wanted to share a few practical insights that might help. Regarding the appraisal cost - yes, you typically pay upfront (usually $150-300 for clothing items), but this cost is also tax-deductible as a miscellaneous expense related to tax preparation. So it doesn't completely eat into your savings. For timing, you're right that it just needs to happen before December 31st for that tax year. However, I mentioned doing it early because if the donation alone doesn't get you over the standard deduction threshold, you have time to plan other charitable giving throughout the year to maximize the benefit. One strategy I used: I bunched multiple years' worth of charitable giving into one tax year (donated items I was planning to give away over 2-3 years all at once). This pushed me well over the standard deduction threshold, making all the donations much more valuable tax-wise. Also, don't overlook that if she's in a high tax bracket due to capital gains, she might benefit from the Net Investment Income Tax (3.8%) reduction as well, which could add another layer of savings on top of the regular income tax benefit. The math really does favor donation in higher tax brackets, especially when you factor in both federal and state benefits.

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Keisha Taylor

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This is really valuable insight about bunching charitable donations! I never considered grouping multiple years of planned donations into one tax year to maximize the itemized deduction benefit. That's actually brilliant for someone facing a high capital gains year. Quick follow-up question - when you say the appraisal cost is deductible as a miscellaneous expense, is that still true under current tax law? I thought most miscellaneous deductions were eliminated a few years ago. Want to make sure I'm not missing something here. Also, regarding the Net Investment Income Tax reduction - does that apply to all charitable deductions or only certain types? This is getting more complex than I initially thought, but it sounds like the tax savings could be pretty substantial when you add everything up.

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Sean O'Connor

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Anyone know how this works if your company went through an acquisition? My RSUs converted to acquiring company stock with a weird conversion ratio and now I have no idea how to calculate my basis.

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Malik Johnson

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For acquisitions, you need to apply the conversion ratio to your original cost basis. For example, if your original RSUs had a $40 cost basis and the conversion ratio was 0.75 shares of new company for each share of old company, your new cost basis would be $40 Γ· 0.75 = $53.33 per share of the acquiring company. Keep all documentation from the acquisition, as the acquiring company should have provided information about the conversion ratio and any special tax considerations.

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Josef Tearle

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Great question! You're right to be confused - this is one of the most misunderstood aspects of RSU taxation. The correct answer is that your cost basis is $1,960 ($35 Γ— 56 shares), not $2,800. Here's the key insight: when your RSUs vested, you received $2,800 in taxable income (80 shares Γ— $35). Your employer withheld 24 shares worth $840 to pay the income taxes on that $2,800 - think of this as equivalent to withholding cash from your paycheck for taxes. The 56 shares you actually received each have a cost basis of $35 (the fair market value on vesting day). You already paid income tax on the full $2,800 value through the share withholding mechanism, so when you eventually sell these 56 shares, you'll only owe capital gains tax on any appreciation above $35 per share. This isn't double taxation - it's actually protecting you from it. The $840 worth of shares that were withheld served as your tax payment, and the remaining shares start with a "clean" basis for capital gains purposes. If the basis were $2,800 for only 56 shares, you'd effectively be getting an artificial step-up that the IRS doesn't allow.

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Another strategy worth considering at your income level is a Deferred Compensation plan if your employer offers one. These plans let you defer a portion of your current salary (and the associated tax liability) to future years when you might be in a lower bracket. The downside is you're essentially lending money to your employer unsecured, so there's credit risk if the company goes under. Also look into Conservation Easements if you're interested in land conservation and have significant tax liability to offset. You can donate development rights on property (land you own or purchase specifically for this purpose) and potentially get a charitable deduction worth several times your investment. However, the IRS has been scrutinizing these heavily lately, so make sure any program you consider is well-established and conservative in its valuation approach. For your existing investments, consider tax-efficient fund placement - holding tax-inefficient investments in your tax-advantaged accounts (401k, IRA) and tax-efficient index funds in taxable accounts. This can meaningfully reduce your annual tax drag on investment growth.

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ThunderBolt7

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The deferred compensation point is really interesting - I hadn't considered that option before. Do most large employers offer these plans, or is it typically just executive-level compensation? Also, regarding conservation easements, I've heard horror stories about people getting audited over aggressive valuations. Are there any red flags to watch out for when evaluating these programs, or specific questions to ask to ensure they're legitimate?

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Ethan Moore

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Deferred compensation plans are typically offered by larger companies (Fortune 500 type) and are often restricted to higher-level employees or those above certain income thresholds - usually $130k+ annually. They're not as common as 401k plans but worth asking HR about if you work for a sizable company. For conservation easements, the red flags include: programs promising deductions of 4x+ your investment (the IRS considers these "too good to be true"), newly formed partnerships without track records, and any program that guarantees specific tax outcomes. Ask for independent appraisals from MAI-certified appraisers, references from previous participants who've been through IRS audits successfully, and make sure the conservation organization has been operating for at least 5+ years. The legitimate ones typically offer more modest deductions (1.5-2.5x investment) and can provide detailed audit defense support. Honestly, given the current IRS scrutiny, I'd be very cautious with conservation easements unless you have significant tax liability ($50k+ annually) and can afford to defend an audit. The juice might not be worth the squeeze at your current income level.

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Consider looking into Captive Insurance Companies (CICs) if you own a business or have significant business income. Under Section 831(b), you can elect to have your captive taxed only on investment income, not insurance premiums, for captives with less than $2.3M in annual premiums. This allows you to deduct legitimate business insurance premiums paid to your own captive, while the captive accumulates wealth in a tax-advantaged structure. Another often-overlooked strategy is investing in Qualified Opportunity Zone funds, which allow you to defer capital gains taxes by investing those gains into designated economically distressed communities. You get a 10% step-up in basis after 5 years, 15% after 7 years, and if held for 10+ years, any appreciation in the QOZ investment itself is tax-free. For immediate tax relief, look into Cost Segregation studies if you own any commercial real estate or rental properties. This allows you to accelerate depreciation on certain components of buildings (like flooring, lighting, landscaping) from 27.5-39 years down to 5-15 years, creating significant upfront deductions. Finally, consider establishing a Charitable Remainder Trust (CRT) if you have highly appreciated assets. You get an immediate charitable deduction, avoid capital gains tax on the sale of the appreciated assets within the trust, and can receive income payments for life while ultimately benefiting charity.

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Aria Park

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This is incredibly comprehensive - thank you! The Captive Insurance Company strategy is completely new to me. Is there a minimum business income threshold where CICs start to make sense, or specific types of businesses where they work best? I'm curious about the operational complexity too - do you essentially have to run a legitimate insurance operation, or can it be more passive? The Opportunity Zone concept sounds interesting but I'm wondering about liquidity concerns with the 10-year hold requirement. Have you seen good quality investment opportunities in these zones, or are most of them pretty speculative real estate plays? Also, regarding Cost Segregation studies - roughly what's the minimum property value where the study costs justify the tax benefits? I have one rental property worth about $300k but wasn't sure if it would be worth the expense of hiring specialists for the analysis.

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