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I have a client who owes tax debt for 2022-2024 for $13000, and I am trying to prepare an OIC for them as Doubt of Collectability, as well as a low-income certification. Tax liability is SE due to being a freelance writer on Schedule C who is unmarried, has no car or any assets, and only made $10875.00 this year. Her grandfather helps her pay her half of the utilities and helps with other things she needs since she isn't paid regularly. This is my first one, and after entering all the income for the RCP, it only shows 336 future income. I was wondering what a reasonable offer should be. Since it is a Schedule C, I would send 6 months of bank statements, correct?
Based on your client's situation, an offer around $336-500 would be reasonable since your RCP calculation shows $336 in future income and minimal assets. For someone making $10,875 annually with no significant assets, this falls well within acceptable parameters for Doubt as to Collectibility. A few important points for your first OIC: 1. Yes, include 6 months of bank statements for Schedule C income - the IRS wants to see the irregular income pattern that's typical for freelancers. 2. Document the grandfather's assistance carefully. Since he's helping with utilities and necessities, make sure to show this isn't "income" to your client but genuine family support for basic living expenses. 3. The low-income certification is smart here - with income at $10,875, she likely qualifies and this waives the application fee and initial payment requirements. 4. Consider going slightly above your RCP calculation (maybe $400-450) to show good faith and account for any minor assets or income the IRS might value differently than you did. 5. Include a detailed hardship letter explaining how the irregular freelance income makes it impossible to maintain consistent payments, and how family assistance is necessary just for basic survival. The key is showing that even your minimal offer represents her true ability to pay given the circumstances. Good luck with your first OIC!
This is exactly the kind of detailed guidance I needed! Thank you for breaking it down so clearly. I'm particularly grateful for the tip about documenting the grandfather's assistance - I hadn't thought about how to properly characterize family help versus income. One quick follow-up question: when you mention going slightly above the RCP calculation to show good faith, is there a risk of offering too much? I want to be fair to my client but also don't want to lowball the IRS and get an automatic rejection. Is there a general rule of thumb for that "good faith" buffer amount? Also, should I include documentation of her irregular freelance payments (like copies of 1099s or client payment records) to support the income volatility argument, or are the bank statements sufficient?
Wait, I thought capital gains tax is like 15%? If u have a $20k gain that would be $3k in tax. R people saying u don't have to pay anything at all???
Yep, if it's your primary residence and you've lived there at least 2 years, married couples can exclude up to $500k in gains completely tax free (singles get $250k exclusion). It's honestly one of the best tax breaks available to regular people.
As someone who just went through this exact process, I can confirm what others have said about the Section 121 exclusion being a lifesaver! Just wanted to add a couple practical tips from my recent experience: 1) Make sure you can prove you actually LIVED in the home as your primary residence for 2 years, not just owned it. The IRS looks at things like voter registration, driver's license address, where you received mail, etc. 2) If you're cutting it close on the 2-year mark, count carefully. The IRS uses the exact date - so if you bought on March 15th, you need to wait until at least March 15th two years later to qualify for the full exclusion. 3) Keep your closing documents from when you purchased! You'll need them to calculate your basis properly when you file taxes next year. With only $20k in gains and being married, you're definitely well under the $500k exclusion limit. Sounds like you should owe zero capital gains tax if everything checks out. Good luck with your move!
This is really helpful! I'm curious about point #1 - what if we were traveling for work frequently during those 2 years but still considered it our primary residence? Like we kept all our stuff there, filed taxes with that address, etc. but were physically away maybe 3-4 months total due to business trips. Would that affect our eligibility for the exclusion?
This is a great discussion! I've been dealing with a similar situation in my auto detailing business. We offer a 30-day satisfaction guarantee, but I've been unclear about how to properly document these expenses. One thing I learned from my accountant is that you want to make sure your warranty policy is written down and dated before you start applying it. The IRS likes to see that these aren't just random acts of generosity but part of a legitimate business strategy. Also, keep detailed records of each warranty claim - what the issue was, how much it cost to fix, and reference your policy. For those mentioning the distinction between warranty vs goodwill expenses - that's spot on. I track mine separately because it helps me analyze which approach actually drives more repeat business. Sometimes a $50 goodwill gesture brings back a customer who spends $500 over the next year, while warranty claims might just be pure cost with no additional revenue. Has anyone here had experience with the IRS actually questioning warranty deductions during an audit? I'd love to know what kind of documentation they typically want to see.
Great point about having the policy written and dated before implementation! I haven't been through an audit myself, but a fellow business owner in my area was audited last year and they specifically asked for documentation showing when warranty policies were established and how consistently they were applied. From what they told me, the IRS wanted to see: 1) The original written policy with dates, 2) Examples showing the policy was applied consistently across different customers, 3) Records showing the business purpose (like customer retention metrics), and 4) Clear documentation that distinguished between policy-based warranty claims and discretionary goodwill gestures. The key thing that helped them was having everything organized beforehand. They said the auditor was actually pretty reasonable once they could demonstrate that their warranty expenses were legitimate business decisions rather than random write-offs. Your point about tracking warranty vs goodwill separately is exactly right - it not only helps with taxes but also gives you better data to make business decisions about which approach actually generates ROI.
This thread has been really helpful! I'm in a similar boat with my small appliance repair shop. One thing I'd add is that if you do decide to expand your warranty coverage, consider creating different tiers or categories rather than a blanket "we'll fix anything" policy. For example, we have three levels: manufacturing defects (free), minor customer damage like scratches or dents (50% cost), and major damage like drops or liquid spills (25% discount from normal repair price). This way you're still providing excellent customer service while managing costs. From a tax perspective, all of these are still legitimate business expenses since they're part of our documented pricing structure. It also makes it easier to track which types of warranty work actually drive customer loyalty versus which ones are just eating into profits. Has anyone tried implementing a tiered approach like this? I'm curious if it's been effective for other repair businesses.
That tiered approach sounds really smart! I'm just starting out with my electronics repair business and have been worried about offering too much coverage upfront. Your system seems like a good middle ground - you're still being generous with customers but not giving away the farm. Quick question though - how do you handle the pricing transparency with customers? Do you explain all the tiers upfront, or do you assess the damage first and then tell them which tier applies? I'm wondering if laying out all the pricing might make the warranty seem complicated to customers who just want simple "yes it's covered" or "no it's not" answers. Also, from a bookkeeping standpoint, do you track each tier as separate expense categories? That would probably make it easier to see which types of warranty work are actually profitable for building customer relationships.
Just wondering, has anyone e-filed Form 709? Or do you have to paper file these gift tax returns? The IRS website isn't super clear on this.
You have to paper file Form 709. The IRS doesn't currently allow e-filing for gift tax returns. Make sure you send it certified mail with return receipt so you have proof of filing! I learned that lesson the hard way when the IRS claimed they never received my form and I had no proof I sent it.
This is exactly the kind of confusion that trips up so many people with gift splitting! Just to add some practical advice from my experience: when you're filling out both forms, make sure you use the exact same description of the gift on both returns. We described our gift slightly differently on each form and got a letter from the IRS asking for clarification. Also, don't forget that the filing deadline for Form 709 is April 15th (or October 15th if you get an extension), but you can't extend the time to pay any gift tax that might be due. In your case with the $60k gift, after splitting you'll each have $12k that counts against your lifetime exemption ($30k - $18k annual exclusion = $12k each), but no actual tax due unless you've already used up a big chunk of your $13.61M lifetime exemption. One more tip: keep detailed records of the gift (bank records, closing documents if it was for the house down payment, etc.) with your tax files. The IRS loves documentation when it comes to large gifts!
This is really helpful advice about keeping consistent descriptions! I'm new to all this gift tax stuff and hadn't thought about how important the documentation would be. Quick question - when you say "exact same description," do you mean word-for-word identical, or just substantially similar? I'm worried about making a small typo and having it cause issues later. Also, thanks for clarifying the timeline on extensions. I was confused about whether the extension applied to filing and payment or just filing. Good to know that any tax due can't be extended, though it sounds like in most cases like the original poster's situation, there won't be actual tax owed anyway.
Admin_Masters
Just wanted to chime in as someone who dealt with this exact scenario two years ago. The advice here is spot-on - you definitely need to report the full 1099-K amount and then deduct your losses separately if you itemize. One thing I'd add is to check if your gambling sites provide annual win/loss statements. Most legitimate online poker and sports betting sites will generate these for you if you request them, and they're incredibly helpful for documenting your actual losses. I had to contact customer service for a couple of sites, but they were able to provide detailed breakdowns that made filing much easier. Also, if you're thinking about using any of the services mentioned here, just make sure you understand the costs upfront. Sometimes the stress of dealing with tax issues makes spending money on help seem worth it, but you want to make sure it actually saves you money in the long run. Good luck with your filing!
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Gael Robinson
ā¢This is really helpful advice about requesting win/loss statements from the gambling sites! I didn't even think about that option. Quick question though - if some of my gambling was on sites that might not be fully legitimate or have shut down since then, what should I do for documentation? I have my Venmo records showing the deposits and withdrawals, but I'm worried that might not be enough if I get audited. Should I try to recreate a gambling log from memory for those transactions?
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Malik Jackson
ā¢For sites that have shut down or aren't legitimate, your Venmo records are actually pretty solid documentation since they show the money flow. I'd recommend creating a reconstructed gambling log based on your Venmo transactions - match up the dates, amounts, and any descriptions you have. Even if you can't remember every specific bet, having a timeline that corresponds to your payment records is better than nothing. The key is being able to demonstrate a pattern of gambling activity that matches your reported losses. Your Venmo statements showing deposits to these sites and any withdrawals back to your account help establish that timeline. If you have any screenshots, emails, or even browser history from those sites, gather that too. The IRS understands that some gambling sites operate in gray areas or shut down, so they're usually more focused on whether your reported losses are reasonable given the documented transactions rather than having perfect records from every site.
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Noah Irving
I'm dealing with a similar situation but with a twist - I got a 1099-K from Venmo for what appears to be a mix of gambling winnings AND some legitimate freelance work I did. The gambling portion represents maybe 60% of the total amount on the form. Has anyone dealt with a mixed-use 1099-K like this? I'm wondering if I need to somehow split the reporting between Schedule C (for the freelance income) and Schedule 1 (for the gambling winnings), or if there's a different approach I should take. The Venmo transaction descriptions don't always make it super clear which payments were for what, so I'm trying to figure out the best way to document this split if the IRS ever asks. Also, for the gambling portion, I'm definitely net negative like the original poster, but the freelance work was legitimate income. This seems to complicate things even more in terms of how to handle the deductions and whether itemizing makes sense.
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Ava Garcia
ā¢You're absolutely right that this complicates things! For a mixed-use 1099-K, you'll need to split the reporting based on the nature of each income type. Report the freelance portion on Schedule C as business income (and you can deduct related business expenses there), and report the gambling winnings portion on Schedule 1 as "Other Income." The key is creating a clear breakdown of which transactions were for freelance work versus gambling. Go through your Venmo history and categorize each payment - even if the descriptions aren't perfect, use context clues like amounts, dates, and any messages or emails you might have. Document your methodology in case you need to explain it later. For the itemizing question - since you have legitimate business income from freelancing, you might have business deductions on Schedule C that could affect your overall tax picture. The gambling losses would still only be deductible if you itemize, but your total tax situation is more complex now. You might want to run the numbers both ways (itemizing vs standard deduction) to see which works better with your mixed income situation.
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