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Anyone have experience with H&R Block's handling of Form 2210? TurboTax always seems to calculate a penalty for me even when I don't think I should have one, wondering if switching software would help.
I've used both. H&R Block is better at explaining the underpayment calculation but honestly they both make the same calculation. The issue isn't really the software but understanding which method (Regular vs Annualized Income) works best for your situation.
I had this exact same issue! The key thing to understand is that Line 8 on Form 2210 should be the SMALLER of two amounts, not necessarily your full 2023 tax liability. Since you mentioned having 110% of your 2023 tax withheld, you should definitely qualify for safe harbor protection. The problem might be that TurboTax isn't correctly applying the "deemed paid evenly" rule for W-2 withholding. Here's what worked for me: I manually calculated Form 2210 using both the regular method and the annualized income installment method to see which gave me a lower penalty (or no penalty). Sometimes the software defaults to one method when the other would be more favorable. Also, double-check that TurboTax is correctly pulling your 2023 tax amount. I've seen cases where the software uses the wrong line from the prior year return, especially if you had refundable credits that affected your actual tax liability vs. what you owed. If you're still getting a penalty calculation after verifying these details, you might want to file Form 2210 manually with your return to override the software's calculation.
This is really helpful! I'm new to dealing with underpayment penalties and didn't realize there were two different calculation methods. When you say "annualized income installment method" - is that something you can select in TurboTax or do you have to calculate it separately? I'm in a similar situation where most of my income was heavily weighted toward the end of the year due to a job change and some large capital gains, so this might be exactly what I need to look into.
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Anyone know if there's a penalty for not reporting this in previous years? I've been working in Brazil for 5 years and never included my FGTS in my FBAR calculations... 😬
The penalties can be STEEP for willful violations - up to $100k or 50% of the account balance per violation! But if it was a genuine mistake, you can file under the Streamlined Procedures program and potentially avoid penalties. Don't wait though, fix it before they come to you!
This is really helpful information! I'm in a similar situation as an expat in Germany with mandatory pension contributions. Based on what everyone's saying, it sounds like the key principle is that if you have a "financial interest" in an account outside the US, it counts toward FBAR reporting regardless of withdrawal restrictions. One thing I'd add for the original poster - make sure you're using the correct exchange rates when converting your Brazilian real amounts to USD for reporting. The IRS has specific guidance on which exchange rates to use (generally the Treasury's year-end rates for the maximum balance calculation). Also, keep good records of your monthly FGTS statements throughout the year so you can accurately determine the maximum balance. Since employers deposit 8% monthly, your balance is constantly growing, so the maximum will likely be at year-end unless there were any withdrawals. Good luck with your filing!
Great point about the exchange rates! I'm new to all this international tax stuff and had no idea there were specific IRS requirements for which rates to use. Do you happen to know where to find the Treasury's year-end rates? And just to clarify - we use the year-end rate even if the maximum balance occurred earlier in the year, or do we use the rate from when the maximum actually occurred? Also really appreciate everyone sharing their experiences here. As someone just starting to navigate expat tax obligations, this thread has been incredibly educational!
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i think my company screwed up my w4 too. is there a way to check if they entered everything correctly? I filled it out right but maybe they input it wrong in their system?
Yes, you can ask your HR or payroll department for a copy of the W4 they have on file for you. Most companies can provide this pretty easily. Compare it to what you remember filling out. You can also look at your pay stub - it should show your filing status and any additional withholding amounts you specified. If those don't match what you requested, then there might have been a data entry error on their end.
thanks for the tip! i just emailed HR to ask for a copy of my W4. hope they didnt mess it up but at least ill know for sure.
The zero withholding issue is really common with the new W4 form! Based on your situation (Head of Household with 2 dependents), here's what likely went wrong: Most people accidentally check the "exempt from withholding" box or mess up Step 3 where you enter dependent amounts. For your situation, you should have $4,000 in Step 3 if both kids are under 17 ($2,000 each). Quick action plan: 1. Get a new W4 from HR immediately 2. Step 1: Check "Head of household" 3. Step 3: Enter $4,000 (for 2 kids under 17) 4. Step 4(c): Add extra withholding to catch up - probably around $150-200 per paycheck depending on your income Since you've had zero withholding for several months already, you definitely need that extra amount in 4(c) to avoid owing next year. The IRS withholding calculator can help you figure out the exact catch-up amount, but don't wait - get that corrected W4 to HR this week! Your smaller refund this year was because you essentially got an interest-free loan from the government instead of having taxes withheld. Better to fix it now than get hit with a big bill next April.
This is really helpful advice! I'm in a similar situation and had no idea about the $2,000 per child calculation for Step 3. Quick question - if one of my dependents is over 17 (like a college student), do I still put them in Step 3 but at $500 instead of $2,000? And does it matter if they're a full-time student? Also, when you mention adding $150-200 extra in Step 4(c), is that per paycheck or per month? Want to make sure I don't overcorrect and end up with too much withheld!
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PRO TIP: Make copies of EVERYTHING before you send it in!!! I learned this the hard way when the IRS claimed they never received my 4506-T form, even though I had mailed it. Second time around, I made copies, sent it certified mail with return receipt, AND kept the tracking number. When they tried to tell me they didn't have it again, I had proof of delivery and was able to get it resolved. Also, double-check that you've signed the form. It sounds obvious, but that's the #1 reason these get rejected.
Is there any way to submit the 4506-T online instead of mailing or faxing it? Would make this whole process so much easier.
You can submit Form 4506-T online through the IRS Get Transcript Online service if you can pass their identity verification process. You'll need to create an account and verify your identity using a credit card, mortgage, or auto loan account. However, not everyone can use the online system - if you can't verify your identity online (like if you don't have qualifying accounts), you'll have to mail or fax it. The online option is definitely faster when it works though - you can get your verification of non-filing letter immediately instead of waiting weeks. If the online system doesn't work for you, certified mail with return receipt is definitely the way to go like Natasha mentioned!
Just wanted to add some clarity since I work at a financial aid office and see this confusion all the time. Everyone here is absolutely correct - you MUST use Form 4506-T (the full version) for verification of non-filing, not the EZ version. The 4506T-EZ is literally designed only for people who filed returns and need transcripts of those returns. It has no mechanism to verify non-filing because that's not what it's for. Think of it this way: how can a form designed to get copies of filed returns prove you didn't file? It can't. For financial aid purposes specifically, make sure you're checking Box 7 on Form 4506-T and clearly indicate the tax year you need verified. Also, be aware that some schools require the verification of non-filing for EVERY year you're claiming you didn't file, not just the most recent one. One more tip: if you're rushing to meet a financial aid deadline, contact your school's financial aid office. Many will accept a completed Form 4506-T as temporary documentation while you wait for the IRS response, especially if you explain the processing delays.
Anastasia Popov
Has anybody used H&R Block software for filing Form 709? Does it walk you through which schedules to fill out based on your situation? I'm trying to decide if I should use software or just fill out the paper form myself.
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Sean Murphy
•I used H&R Block for my 709 filing last year. It does ask questions to determine which schedules you need, but honestly I found their guidance on Schedule D and GST tax pretty minimal. It basically just asked if I was making gifts to skip persons without really explaining what that meant. I ended up calling their support line for clarification. If your situation is straightforward it's probably fine, but for anything complex I'd recommend getting professional help.
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Muhammad Hobbs
I went through this exact same confusion last year when I had to file Form 709 for the first time! The key thing to understand is that Schedule D is ONLY for Generation-Skipping Transfer (GST) tax, which applies when you're making gifts to people who are two or more generations below you. Since you're giving to your niece, she's considered one generation below you (not a "skip person"), so you can completely skip Schedule D. You'll only need to complete Schedule A to report the gift details and potentially Schedule C if you need to calculate any gift tax (though with the current lifetime exemption being over $13 million, you probably won't owe any actual tax). The IRS instructions can definitely be overwhelming, but for your straightforward gift to a niece, you're dealing with a much simpler situation than the forms make it seem. Focus on Schedule A and don't stress about Schedule D - it literally doesn't apply to your case!
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LilMama23
•This is really helpful! I'm new to this community and also dealing with my first gift tax return. Just to make sure I understand - when you say "one generation below," does that mean the relationship matters more than the actual age difference? My niece is only 5 years younger than me, so I was wondering if age played a role in determining generations for tax purposes. Also, do you know if there's a difference between nieces/nephews on your spouse's side versus your own family side when it comes to these generation rules? Thanks for breaking this down in such simple terms!
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