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Has anyone here used the Taxpayer Advocate Service? I've heard mixed things. My refund has been delayed for 4 months now with a similar situation (multiple W-2s and an amended return).
I've used the Taxpayer Advocate Service twice with good results, but they've become much more selective about which cases they accept. They now primarily focus on situations where there's financial hardship (eviction risk, utility shutoffs, inability to afford medications) or cases where the IRS has made multiple errors. For "normal" processing delays, they've been declining many cases lately due to their own backlog. If you decide to contact them, be prepared to document any specific hardship the delay is causing. Without that element, they'll likely tell you to continue waiting through normal channels.
Thanks for the info! I'm not experiencing any immediate financial hardship so I guess I'll keep waiting. It's just frustrating because I was counting on that money for some home repairs, but nothing urgent enough to qualify as a hardship case from what you're describing.
I went through something very similar last year - multiple jobs, stock transactions, and an amended return that created a perfect storm of delays. What really helped me was keeping detailed records of every interaction and letter. One thing that might be worth trying is visiting your local IRS Taxpayer Assistance Center in person. I know it sounds old-fashioned, but when I finally did this after 5 months of waiting, the representative was able to look up my case immediately and give me specific information about what was causing the delay. She couldn't speed up the process, but at least I knew exactly where I stood. Also, since you mentioned the corrected W-2 from your former employer - make sure you keep that documentation readily available. In my case, the IRS eventually requested additional proof that the amended information was correct, and having everything organized made that much easier to handle. The waiting is absolutely maddening, but based on your timeline and the letters you've received, it sounds like your case is progressing normally (even though "normal" feels anything but normal when you're waiting for $4,300). Hang in there!
Just wanted to add one more thing that might help - since your husband's inheritance came from his mother who was a Chilean resident, make sure you keep all the documentation from the Chilean inheritance process. This includes the death certificate, will documents, bank transfer records, and any tax withholding certificates from Chile. You'll need these documents if the IRS ever questions the source of the funds, and they're also important for calculating your foreign tax credit if Chilean taxes were withheld. I learned this the hard way when I couldn't find my grandmother's Italian inheritance paperwork years later during an audit. Also, even though you don't need Form 3520 for this inheritance, if your husband ever receives additional gifts or inheritances from foreign sources in future years, those amounts could be cumulative for reporting purposes in some situations. Good to establish a paper trail now.
One additional point to consider - since your husband is a dual citizen and the inheritance came from his Chilean mother, you should also verify whether there are any ongoing Chilean tax obligations related to maintaining that bank account. Some countries require annual declarations of foreign-held assets by their citizens, even if they live abroad. Also, if you decide to eventually transfer that money to a US account, be prepared for additional reporting requirements. Large international wire transfers ($10,000+) trigger Currency Transaction Reports (CTRs) at US banks, and you'll want to have all your inheritance documentation ready to explain the source of funds to avoid any suspicious activity reports. Consider setting up a simple tracking system now for any transactions in that account - deposits, withdrawals, interest payments, fees, etc. This will make next year's tax preparation much smoother and ensure you don't miss reporting any taxable events. A basic spreadsheet with dates, amounts, and exchange rates used will save you hours later.
For tracking purposes, I'd recommend recording both the original Chilean peso amounts AND the USD equivalent using the exchange rate on the date of each transaction. This gives you the most accurate reporting and creates a clear audit trail if the IRS ever has questions. You can use the IRS's published annual average exchange rates for convenience, or the daily rates from a consistent source like xe.com or the Federal Reserve. Just be consistent with whichever method you choose. Most tax software and professionals prefer to see the USD amounts for reporting, but having the original peso amounts helps verify your calculations. Regarding Chilean tax obligations - dual citizenship tax requirements vary significantly by country. Some countries tax based on citizenship (like the US), others on residency. Since Chile generally taxes based on residency and your husband lives in the US, he may not have ongoing Chilean filing requirements, but definitely verify this with a Chilean tax professional. The rules can be complex, especially when you have assets or accounts in Chile. When you do transfer the funds to the US, make sure your US bank knows it's an inheritance - provide them with the documentation upfront to avoid any delays or suspicious activity reports.
@StarSurfer For tracking purposes, I'd recommend keeping records in both currencies - the original Chilean peso amounts and the USD equivalents using the exchange rate on the transaction date. This gives you flexibility and ensures accuracy for reporting. For exchange rates, use a consistent source like the IRS yearly average rates or xe.com historical rates. The key is consistency - pick one method and stick with it throughout the year. Regarding dual citizen tax obligations, it typically depends on residency status and income sources. Since your husband likely lives in the US, he probably doesn't need to file Chilean returns unless he has Chilean-source income beyond the inheritance. But definitely confirm this with a Chilean tax professional - each country has different rules for their citizens living abroad. For the house down payment transfer, document everything thoroughly. Banks will ask about large international transfers, and having your inheritance paperwork ready will make the process much smoother. Some people also notify their bank in advance about the incoming international transfer to avoid any holds or delays.
For what it's worth, I had this exact situation last year and it turned out my company had switched payroll providers mid-year. That's why they issued two separate W-2s. One was from January-June with the old provider, and one was from July-December with the new one. Is it possible your company did something similar?
That happened at my company too, but both W-2s had regular wage information, not just a single box filled in. Sounds like OP's situation is something different since one only has Box 12A filled in.
You're right - that is different from my situation. In my case, both W-2s had full information for their respective time periods. If one only has Box 12A filled in, it's more likely to be separating out a specific benefit or contribution as others have mentioned.
I went through something very similar recently! In my case, the second W-2 with only Box 12A filled in was reporting my employer's HSA contributions that were made throughout the year. The code in Box 12A was "W" which specifically indicates employer HSA contributions. What helped me understand it was looking at the actual letter code next to the dollar amount in Box 12A - that tells you exactly what type of contribution or benefit it represents. Common codes are D (401k elective deferrals), W (employer HSA contributions), C (group term life insurance), etc. You definitely need to enter both W-2s when filing. I use TurboTax and it has a simple "Add another W-2" option that walks you through entering multiple forms from the same employer. The software automatically handles how to report everything correctly so you don't have to worry about double-counting anything. Just make sure when you're entering the second W-2 that you only fill in the boxes that actually have amounts - don't try to enter zeros in the empty boxes.
I had EXACTLY THIS SITUATION in June! Called the offset number: no debt. Called IRS: they said wait for BFS letter. Letter never came, but my bank suddenly had a deposit for $300 less than my expected refund a week after the projected date. Called again and after 1.5hrs on hold found out it was for a state tax debt from 2017 that I never knew about because I moved. The systems don't talk to each other well.
That's really helpful information. I'll double check with my state tax agency too. Thanks!
I went through this exact same situation last year! The WMR tool showed that scary offset warning for weeks, but when I called the Treasury Offset Program, they confirmed no debts. Turns out my return was just flagged for a routine review that had nothing to do with offsets - the IRS just uses generic messaging that doesn't match what's actually happening. What helped me was checking my account transcript (once I could finally access it) which showed the real status codes. In my case, it was just a standard review hold that resolved automatically after about 3 weeks past my original refund date. The whole time WMR kept showing the offset warning even though no offset was happening. Since you're still within your refund timeframe (March 4th), I'd wait until then before panicking. If it doesn't show up by March 5th, definitely call the IRS directly. The offset warning is probably just their system being overly cautious rather than indicating an actual problem. Hope this helps ease some of your stress!
Grace Lee
Has anyone here used the actual expense method for their vehicle? I'm trying to calculate if it's worth it compared to standard mileage. I drive about 15,000 business miles a year in a fairly efficient car, but I also had some expensive repairs last year.
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Mia Roberts
β’I've used both methods over the years. The simple rule of thumb: if you drive a lot of miles in an economical vehicle, standard mileage usually wins. If you have a gas guzzler with high maintenance costs or expensive vehicle (think luxury car or large truck), actual expenses often works better. With 15,000 business miles, you'd get about $9,825 deduction at the 2023 rate of 65.5 cents per mile. Calculate your actual expenses (gas, insurance, repairs, maintenance, depreciation, etc.) and multiply by your business use percentage. Then compare the numbers.
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Aisha Rahman
One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is the importance of timing your tire purchase strategically. Since you're 90% business use, you can deduct 90% of the cost in the year you purchase them. If you're close to year-end and expecting higher income next year, you might want to buy the tires now to get the deduction in the current tax year. Also, make sure you're getting the best deal possible since you can only deduct what you actually spend. Check tire retailers for rebates, compare prices online vs in-store, and consider buying during sales events. Every dollar you save is still money in your pocket, but every dollar of the purchase price (times 90%) reduces your taxable income. Don't forget to keep the receipt and note the business use percentage and date of purchase in your records. The IRS will want to see documentation if they ever audit your vehicle expenses.
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