I'm dealing with this exact same frustration right now! Filed 2/8, accepted 2/9, TPG shows funded on 2/23, and here we are on 2/27 with absolutely nothing in my Dave account. Like you, I've called Dave multiple times and they keep saying there are no pending deposits visible on their end. It's honestly infuriating when their entire marketing campaign is built around getting your money "up to 5 days early" and then you're sitting here waiting just as long as you would with any regular bank. Reading through everyone's experiences here though, it seems like we're all in the same boat and 4-5 business days after TPG funding appears to be the actual reality, regardless of what Dave advertises. I'm going to wait until tomorrow (Friday) since that would be the 5th business day, but this whole experience has definitely soured me on Dave's promises. Next year I'm either going back to my credit union or finding a bank that's more honest about their deposit timelines instead of using misleading marketing language.

I'm experiencing the exact same timeline as many of you - filed 2/6, accepted 2/7, TPG funded 2/22, and still waiting on Dave as of today (2/27). This thread has been incredibly helpful because Dave's customer service keeps telling me there's nothing pending, which was making me panic that something went wrong. But seeing that literally everyone here is reporting 3-5 business days after TPG funding, even with "early deposit" banks, makes me realize this is just how the system actually works despite the marketing promises. The frustrating part is that Dave's advertising makes it sound like you'll get your refund the moment TPG processes it, but the reality seems to be that ACH transfers still take their standard processing time regardless of which bank you use. I'm going to wait until Friday (day 5) like others suggested, but this experience has definitely taught me to ignore the "early deposit" hype and just plan for normal banking timelines next year. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences - it's reassuring to know we're all in the same boat!

Just wanted to add another perspective on handling HSA excess contributions - I went through this exact situation last year and learned a few things that might help. First, when you contact your HSA provider to request the excess contribution withdrawal, make sure to ask them to calculate the "net income attributable" (NIA) to your excess contribution. This is crucial because you need to withdraw both the excess amount AND any earnings on that excess. If your HSA investments lost money, the NIA could actually be negative, meaning you'd withdraw slightly less than the excess contribution amount. Second, timing matters a lot here. You mentioned you're using TurboTax - if you haven't filed yet, you're in good shape. You can make the correction and then file your return normally. But if you've already filed, you might need to file an amended return depending on when you make the correction. Also, keep detailed records of everything - your HSA provider's calculation of the excess, the withdrawal confirmation, and any correspondence. The IRS can be picky about HSA corrections, and having good documentation makes everything smoother if they ever ask questions. One last tip: consider setting up automatic contribution limits in your payroll system for next year to prevent this from happening again, especially now that you know cash-back rewards count toward your limit.

I've been through this exact scenario and want to emphasize something that might save you some headache - make sure you understand the timing requirements for your excess contribution withdrawal. You have until your tax filing deadline (including extensions) to correct this, but there's a key detail many people miss. When you request the excess contribution withdrawal from Vanguard, they'll need to calculate earnings (or losses) from the date you made the excess contribution to the date of withdrawal. Since your cash-back rewards likely went in throughout the year at different times, this calculation can get complex. Vanguard should be able to handle this, but I'd recommend calling them sooner rather than later to start the process. Also, since you mentioned you have investments in your HSA that pay dividends, make sure Vanguard clearly understands which deposits were the problematic cash-back rewards versus legitimate contributions or investment earnings. You want them to calculate the excess correctly - it sounds like you need to remove roughly $696 in cash-back contributions plus any earnings attributable to those specific deposits. One more thing - after you get this fixed, you might want to consider keeping your cash-back rewards separate from your HSA going forward. You could redirect them to a regular savings account and then manually contribute to your HSA only up to your calculated limit each year. This gives you more control and prevents accidental over-contributions.

This happened to me too! Check if you completed Form 8606 for non-deductible IRA contributions. It's super important to file this form every year you make non-deductible contributions, otherwise you might end up paying taxes twice on that money.

This is a really common confusion! At your income level with workplace retirement plan coverage, you're likely hitting the Traditional IRA deductibility phase-out limits that others mentioned. One quick way to verify this: look at Line 20 on your Form 1040 (Traditional IRA deduction). If it shows $0 or less than $6,500, then your contribution wasn't fully deductible due to income limits. Since you made a non-deductible Traditional IRA contribution, you absolutely need to file Form 8606 to track your basis in the account. This is crucial for avoiding double taxation when you eventually withdraw. Given your income level, you might want to consider doing a backdoor Roth IRA conversion instead. You'd contribute to Traditional IRA (non-deductible), then immediately convert to Roth. This way you get the tax-free growth benefit of a Roth IRA despite being over the income limits for direct Roth contributions. Your $930 tax reduction ($1,200 - $270) makes perfect sense if only the $3,000 capital loss was deductible. At roughly 24% marginal rate, that's about $720 in tax savings, which aligns with what you're seeing.

Wait, I'm confused about something basic here. Does the IRS even know about crypto you mine if there's no market for it? Like, if nobody reported anything anywhere, how would they even know you had it?

I've been through a very similar situation with pre-market crypto mining, and honestly it's one of those areas where the IRS guidance is frustratingly vague. From my experience dealing with this exact scenario, here's what worked for me: I used the cost-of-production method that Fatima mentioned - tracked all my electricity costs, equipment depreciation, and even internet costs related to mining. The key is being able to justify your methodology with real documentation. I kept spreadsheets of my monthly mining costs and the tokens received each month. For your friend's purchase, I'd treat that as a separate capital gains event using your mining cost basis. The fact that he wanted to buy them does suggest some value, but a single private transaction between acquaintances isn't really an "open market" in the traditional sense. One thing I learned the hard way - make sure you're consistent with your approach across all your crypto activities. If you use mining costs as FMV for this token, use similar logic for any other pre-market mining you might have done. The IRS loves consistency and hates when taxpayers cherry-pick methods that minimize taxes. Also, definitely keep records of when the actual market launched and any price differences between your friend's purchase and the eventual market price. That could be important for establishing that your original valuation method was reasonable.

I'm a tax preparer and want to add one important clarification that might help others in similar situations. While everyone is correct that employer-paid health insurance premiums aren't included in gross income, there's one specific scenario to watch out for. If you're a more-than-2% S-corporation shareholder-employee, the employer-paid health insurance premiums ARE included in your gross income (though you may be able to deduct them elsewhere on your return). This is a pretty niche situation, but since you mentioned being close to income thresholds, it's worth noting. For the vast majority of employees (W-2 wage earners), the employer health insurance contribution is completely excluded from gross income as everyone has explained. But if you happen to be a significant owner in an S-corp, the rules are different. Given that you mentioned a regular W-2 situation with $71,500 in income, you're almost certainly in the standard employee category where the health insurance exclusion applies. Just wanted to mention this edge case since precision matters when you're near income thresholds for tax credits!

As someone who's dealt with similar AGI calculations for tax credit eligibility, I can definitely confirm what everyone has said - employer-paid health insurance premiums are excluded from your gross income under Section 106 of the tax code. What really helped me understand this was looking at my actual W-2 when it arrived. Box 1 shows your taxable wages, and the employer's health insurance contribution simply isn't included there. You might see it in Box 12 with code DD (for informational purposes), but that doesn't affect your AGI calculation at all. With your $71,500 base salary, you're in excellent shape for staying under that $75k threshold. The $9,800 your employer pays for health insurance is completely invisible to the IRS for income purposes. Plus, if you're making any pre-tax contributions to health insurance, HSA, or other benefits through payroll deduction, those actually REDUCE your AGI below your base salary. I was in almost the exact same situation last year and successfully claimed the tax credit I was worried about losing. The key is trusting that the tax system has already built in these exclusions - you don't need to add back employer benefits when calculating your AGI. You should be well within the income limits for whatever credit you're pursuing!