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I was in the same boat as you last month - expired license and couldn't use ID.me. Calling that verification number was like trying to win the lottery, but I finally got through on my fifth attempt. The trick is to call right when they open at 7am. It's like trying to get concert tickets the moment they go on sale. I got my identity verified and my refund showed up 16 days later. Hang in there!
I went through this exact same nightmare in January! My license had expired right before I needed to verify, and ID.me was a complete dead end. Here's what worked for me: Call 800-830-5084 at exactly 7:00 AM your local time - I'm talking have your phone ready to dial the second the clock hits 7. I tried calling later in the day multiple times and gave up after 60+ minute waits, but the 7 AM call got me through in under 20 minutes. Have these ready: your SSN, filing status, exact AGI from your 2022 and 2023 returns, and your address from those returns. They also asked me about a previous address from like 5 years ago (super random but they have access to credit bureau info). The whole verification took about 25 minutes, and they gave me a confirmation number at the end - definitely write that down! My refund was released exactly 19 days after the call, even though they said it could take up to 9 weeks. Good luck with your apartment application - the timing stress is real!
This is such a helpful thread! I've been playing social casino games for about two years and had no idea about the tax implications. I probably made around $400 last year from various apps but never thought to report it since I didn't get any tax forms. Reading through all these responses, it sounds like I need to go back and figure out exactly how much I made and report it as "Other Income" on my return. One question though - for those apps where you can only cash out to gift cards (not actual cash), does that still count as taxable income? I have probably another $200-300 in various gift cards I've redeemed from gaming apps over the year. Also, if I bought coin packages but never cashed anything out from a particular game, I assume there's no income to report from that one, right? Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences - this community is so much more helpful than trying to navigate the IRS website!
Welcome to the community! Yes, gift cards absolutely count as taxable income - the IRS treats them the same as cash since they have monetary value. So that additional $200-300 in gift cards should also be reported as "Other Income." You're correct about the coin packages where you never cashed out - if there was no conversion to real money or gift cards, there's no taxable event to report. Only when you actually receive something of value (cash, gift cards, etc.) does it become taxable income. For tracking everything, I'd recommend going through your email receipts and bank/PayPal statements to get the exact amounts. Most of these apps send confirmation emails when you redeem rewards, which makes it easier to total everything up. The good news is that even if you're a bit off on the exact amount, the IRS is generally reasonable about good-faith efforts to report income accurately, especially for these smaller amounts.
This is exactly the kind of situation I dealt with last year! I was playing multiple social casino apps and had small cashouts throughout the year that totaled around $650. What really helped me was creating a simple spreadsheet to track everything - date, app name, amount cashed out, and method (PayPal, gift card, etc.). One thing I learned that might help others here: keep screenshots of your cashout confirmations if possible. Some of these apps don't keep great records on their end, and if you ever need to verify your reported income, having those screenshots can be really valuable. Also, don't forget to check smaller apps - I almost missed about $80 from a word game app that let me cash out to Amazon gift cards. For the loss deduction question, remember you can only deduct losses if you itemize, and only up to the amount of your winnings. So if you won $800 but spent $1,200 on coin packages, you can only deduct $800 in losses. Make sure the math actually works out in your favor before choosing to itemize instead of taking the standard deduction!
One thing no one has mentioned yet - if you're itemizing deductions anyway (because of mortgage interest, state taxes, etc.), then these museum donations can be nice additional deductions even if you don't get the full amount back. I donate to several museums and also belong to a theater company where the membership is partially deductible. It's a nice way to support the arts while getting some tax benefit at the same time. Also, if your employer matches charitable donations, check if museum memberships qualify! Mine does, so I essentially get double the impact.
Yes! My company has a matching program too. How do you submit museum memberships for matching? Does the museum need to be a 501c3?
Most museums are indeed 501(c)(3) organizations, which is what most employer matching programs require. For submitting, I usually just provide HR with the receipt/acknowledgment letter from the museum that shows their tax ID number. Some companies want you to submit through their online portal, while others accept email submissions with the documentation attached. I'd check with your HR department about the specific process - they should be able to tell you exactly what documentation they need and whether cultural organizations like museums qualify for your particular matching program.
This is such a helpful thread! I had the exact same misconception about tax deductions. I was looking at a $500 membership at our local contemporary art museum and thought I'd get the full amount back too. After reading everyone's explanations, I realize I need to: 1) Check if the museum membership benefits reduce the deductible amount 2) See if my total deductions would exceed the standard deduction to make itemizing worth it 3) Calculate the actual tax savings based on my bracket (probably around 12%) It sounds like even though I won't get the full amount back, supporting the museum while getting some tax benefit is still worthwhile. Plus I genuinely want the membership perks anyway - the tax deduction is just a nice bonus. Thanks everyone for clearing up the confusion between deductions and credits! This community is so helpful for understanding these tax concepts.
You've got the right approach! One additional tip I'd add - when you contact the museum about the membership, ask them specifically for a breakdown of the deductible vs. non-deductible portions upfront. Some museums are really clear about this on their website, but others you have to ask directly. Also, if you're on the fence about itemizing, you might want to look at your other potential deductions for the year (mortgage interest, state/local taxes, medical expenses, etc.) to see if you're close to the standard deduction threshold. Sometimes adding that museum membership can be the thing that tips you over into itemizing territory, making all your other deductions valuable too. The fact that you genuinely want the membership perks makes it even better - you're supporting something you care about and getting a modest tax benefit as a bonus!
Great thread everyone! As someone who just went through the IRIS transition myself, I wanted to add a few things that might help newcomers: **Record Limits**: Like others mentioned, IRIS doesn't have the same hard limits as FIRE. I've successfully submitted batches of 500+ records without issues. The system seems more focused on file format correctness than size limits. **CSV Validation Tips**: - Always save your CSV as "CSV (MS-DOS)" in Excel if you must use it, then open in Notepad to verify - Test with a small batch first (like 5-10 records) to validate your format - Keep a backup of your original data before any CSV conversion **Common Gotchas I've encountered**: - State codes MUST be the 2-letter postal abbreviation (not full state names) - Phone numbers should be 10 digits with no formatting (no parentheses, dashes, spaces) - Amount fields cannot have dollar signs, commas, or decimal points for whole dollar amounts The test submission feature in IRIS has been a lifesaver - definitely use it before your real submission. The error messages are much clearer than what you get from FIRE rejections. Hope this helps other folks making the transition!
This is incredibly helpful! I'm brand new to IRIS (switching from FIRE this year) and was getting overwhelmed by all the format requirements. The tip about using "CSV (MS-DOS)" format is something I never would have thought of. Quick question - when you mention amount fields can't have decimal points for whole dollar amounts, does that mean $100.00 should be entered as just "100" or "10000" (in cents)? The IRS documentation I found wasn't clear on this point. Also, thanks for mentioning the state code requirement - I was planning to use full state names and that would have definitely caused rejections!
For amount fields in IRIS, you enter whole dollar amounts without decimals - so $100.00 becomes just "100", not "10000". The system expects dollar amounts, not cents. If you have an amount like $150.75, you would enter "150.75" (with the decimal but no dollar sign). I learned this the hard way after my first test submission came back with amount formatting errors. The IRS documentation is definitely confusing on this point - I ended up calling their technical support line to get clarification. One more tip since you're new to IRIS: make sure your file encoding is UTF-8 without BOM. Some text editors add a Byte Order Mark that can cause the first field in your header row to be misread by the IRIS system. Notepad++ has an option to convert to "UTF-8 without BOM" which has saved me from several headaches. Welcome to the IRIS world - it's definitely better than FIRE once you get the hang of the format requirements!
This has been such a helpful thread! I'm transitioning from paper filing to IRIS this year and was completely lost on the CSV requirements. Reading through everyone's experiences has given me a much clearer roadmap. I wanted to add one thing I discovered during my research - the IRS has a dedicated IRIS help desk at 866-455-7438 that's separate from their main taxpayer service line. The wait times are usually much shorter (typically 15-20 minutes vs hours on the main line) and the agents are specifically trained on electronic filing formats. They walked me through the exact CSV layout for 1099-NEC forms and even sent me sample files to use as templates. For anyone else making the switch, I'd recommend calling them before you start building your CSV files. They can provide form-specific format guides that are much clearer than the general documentation on the IRS website. The agent I spoke with also confirmed that you can submit multiple test files without any limit - so definitely take advantage of that feature to perfect your format before the real submission. Thanks again to everyone who shared their experiences here. This community knowledge is invaluable for navigating these IRS systems!
Thanks for sharing that IRIS help desk number! I had no idea there was a separate line for electronic filing support. I've been dreading the transition from paper filing but this thread has made me feel so much more confident about making the switch. The tip about getting form-specific format guides directly from the help desk is gold - I was trying to piece together requirements from multiple IRS publications and getting more confused. Having actual sample files to work from sounds like it would eliminate a lot of the guesswork. One quick question - when you called the IRIS help desk, did they require any special information to verify your business or can anyone call for format guidance? I want to make sure I have everything ready before I call. This community has been amazing for demystifying what seemed like an impossible process. Thank you everyone!
Beatrice Marshall
Has anyone tried the IRS Free File options? I know they have income limits (usually around $73k) but I think some of them can handle investments too. Seems like the only truly free option these days.
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Melina Haruko
ā¢I tried using Free File last year through TaxSlayer and it was decent, but really basic. It got confused with my ETF distributions and I couldn't figure out how to categorize everything properly. Probably depends on how complicated your investments are.
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Abigail Spencer
Wow, I'm dealing with the exact same sticker shock! I've been a loyal TurboTax user for about 8 years and that $82.99 price tag made me do a double-take. What really gets me is they removed the early-bird discount - that was always my saving grace for dealing with their annual price creeps. I'm definitely intrigued by some of the alternatives mentioned here, especially taxr.ai with the document upload feature. My situation is pretty similar to yours - I've got investment accounts and a small rental property, so manually entering everything would be a nightmare. Has anyone compared how these alternatives handle Schedule E for rental properties specifically? That's always been the most time-consuming part of my return and I want to make sure whatever I switch to can handle depreciation schedules and expense categorization properly. Thanks for starting this thread - it's exactly the push I needed to finally explore other options instead of just complaining about TurboTax prices every year!
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Oliver Zimmermann
ā¢I'm in the exact same boat! Just discovered this thread while researching alternatives after seeing TurboTax's ridiculous price hike. I've been using them for 5 years but $83 is just too much for what should be routine tax prep. From what I'm reading here, it sounds like taxr.ai and FreeTaxUSA are the top contenders for people like us with investments and rental properties. The document upload feature for taxr.ai sounds amazing - I'm so tired of manually entering dozens of stock transactions every year. Has anyone who switched actually compared their final tax calculations between the old TurboTax results and these new platforms? I'm a bit paranoid about missing deductions or making errors when switching to unfamiliar software, especially with rental property depreciation which can get complicated. Also curious about state filing fees - are most of these alternatives charging separately for state returns like TurboTax does, or are there any that include it in one price?
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