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This is such a helpful thread! I was in the exact same situation and was getting really worried that my employer had made some kind of mistake with my Roth 401k contributions. One thing I'd add is that if you want to be extra sure everything is correct, you can also request a "Summary Plan Description" from your HR department. This document explains exactly how your company's 401k plan works and should clarify how Roth vs traditional contributions are handled on your paystubs and tax documents. I also learned that some payroll systems will show a breakdown on your final pay stub of the year with separate lines for "401k Roth" and "401k Traditional" contributions, which makes it easier to track. But even if your pay stubs don't break it down that clearly, as long as your total retirement contributions match what you intended to contribute, you should be good to go. The key thing to remember is that Roth 401k contributions are treated like regular income for tax purposes (since you pay taxes on them now), while traditional 401k contributions reduce your current taxable income (which is why they show up separately in box 12a).

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The Boss

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This is really great advice about requesting the Summary Plan Description! I didn't know that was something you could ask for from HR. I'm definitely going to do that because I want to make sure I fully understand how my company handles the different types of contributions. It sounds like having that documentation could also be helpful if there are ever any questions or discrepancies down the road. Thanks for sharing that tip!

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Liam Sullivan

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I went through this exact same confusion last year! What really helped me was creating a simple spreadsheet to track everything. I listed my gross pay, traditional 401k contributions, Roth 401k contributions, and other deductions, then calculated what my Box 1 wages should be. The formula is basically: Gross Pay - Traditional 401k - Other Pre-tax Deductions = Box 1 Wages (which includes your Roth 401k contributions since they're after-tax). Once I did this calculation and compared it to my actual W-2, everything made perfect sense. My Roth contributions were indeed "invisible" on the W-2 because they're already included in the taxable wages amount. It's definitely counterintuitive at first, but the math works out correctly. If your numbers don't match up when you do this calculation, then you might have a legitimate issue to discuss with your HR department. But in most cases, everything is probably correct even though it doesn't look like what you'd expect.

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Eli Butler

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This spreadsheet approach is brilliant! I'm definitely going to try this method to verify my own W-2. As someone who's new to understanding how retirement contributions work on tax forms, having a clear formula like that really helps break it down. I appreciate you sharing the exact calculation - it makes the whole "invisible Roth contributions" concept much clearer. Quick question though: when you say "other pre-tax deductions," does that include things like health insurance premiums and HSA contributions too?

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NebulaNinja

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This is exactly the kind of HSA confusion that trips up so many people! Your W-2 is actually correct - Box 12 Code W should show the combined total of both your contributions ($1,950) and your employer's contributions ($975), which equals $2,925. The key thing to remember is that your payroll deductions for HSA are pre-tax contributions, so they get lumped together with employer contributions in Box 12W. This is different from retirement plans where employee and employer contributions might be reported separately. Since your total is $2,925 and well under the 2024 limit of $4,150 for individual coverage (or $3,650 if this was for 2023), you're in good shape. No red flags here - your employer reported everything correctly!

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This is really helpful confirmation! I was getting worried that something was wrong with my W-2, but it sounds like the reporting is actually working as intended. It's so confusing that HSAs work differently from other benefit reporting - I wish they made this clearer in the tax instructions. Thanks for breaking down the contribution limits too. I'm definitely under the threshold, so I can stop stressing about potential IRS issues when I file.

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I had this exact same confusion last year! Your W-2 is correct - Box 12 Code W should include both your employee contributions AND your employer's contributions. The $2,925 total you're seeing is exactly right ($1,950 from your payroll deductions + $975 employer match). What helped me understand this is that when you make HSA contributions through payroll deduction, they're taken out pre-tax, which means they're treated similarly to employer contributions for reporting purposes. That's why they get combined in Box 12W rather than reported separately. The good news is you're well under the contribution limits, so no worries about red flags with the IRS. For 2024, the limit is $4,150 for individual coverage, so you have plenty of room if you wanted to contribute more. Just make sure to keep good records of your contributions throughout the year to avoid any confusion next tax season!

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I've been dealing with this exact same issue! What worked for me was using the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator mid-year to check if I was on track. Since you both have steady jobs and know your approximate incomes, I'd recommend: 1. Fill out new W-4s for both of you using the current 2020+ version (not the old allowances system) 2. Both check box 2(c) for the "spouse also works" option 3. Only claim the $4,000 child tax credit on ONE form (probably yours since you make less) 4. Run the IRS calculator quarterly to fine-tune One thing that really helped us was looking at our previous year's "total tax" line on our 1040 and dividing by total paychecks to see what we should be withholding per paycheck. Then we adjusted line 4(c) to get as close as possible to that target. With your combined $170k income, you'll definitely want to be careful about underwithholding since you're in a higher bracket. Better to owe a small amount than get hit with underpayment penalties!

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Luca Russo

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This is really helpful advice! I'm new to this community and dealing with a similar W-4 situation. Quick question about the quarterly check-ins with the IRS calculator - do you just run it with your year-to-date numbers from your paystubs? And if you need to make adjustments mid-year, do you have to submit entirely new W-4 forms to your employers or can you just update specific lines? Also, when you mention looking at last year's "total tax" line - is that different from what we actually owed or got refunded? I want to make sure I'm looking at the right number for this calculation.

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@99c601b625b5 Great questions! Yes, for the quarterly check-ins, you'll use your year-to-date numbers from your paystubs - total wages, federal tax withheld, etc. The IRS calculator will project out the rest of the year based on that data. If you need to make mid-year adjustments, you'll need to submit a new W-4 form to your employer. Most HR departments are used to this and it's totally normal. You can't just update specific lines - it's an entirely new form that replaces your previous one. And yes, the "total tax" line is different from your refund/amount owed! Look at line 24 on your Form 1040 from last year - that's your actual tax liability. Your refund or amount owed is just the difference between what you paid through withholding/estimated payments versus that total tax amount. So if line 24 shows $18,000 in total tax, that's what you should aim to have withheld over the year, regardless of whether you got a $2,000 refund (meaning you had $20,000 withheld) or owed $1,000 (meaning you only had $17,000 withheld).

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Zainab Omar

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One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is the importance of timing when you submit your updated W-4s. If you're making changes mid-year, try to do it early in a pay period so you get the full benefit of the adjustment. Also, keep in mind that with your husband's potential promotion and salary increase next year, you'll want to update your W-4s again once that goes into effect. A jump from $98k to potentially $110k+ could push you into different withholding territory. I'd also suggest keeping a simple spreadsheet throughout the year tracking your federal withholding from each paycheck. This makes it super easy to see if you're on track when you run those quarterly checks with the IRS calculator. Takes 2 minutes per pay period but gives you peace of mind that you won't have any surprises come April. The good news is that once you get this dialed in for your situation, it becomes much easier to maintain going forward!

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This is such great practical advice! I'm completely new to managing W-4s properly (just joined this community) and the spreadsheet idea is brilliant. I never thought about tracking withholding throughout the year rather than just hoping for the best at tax time. Quick question about the timing aspect - when you say "early in a pay period," do you mean submitting the W-4 right after you get paid so it takes effect on the next paycheck? I want to make sure I understand the timing correctly since every paycheck matters when you're trying to break even. Also, for someone just starting this process, would you recommend being slightly conservative (withholding a bit more) in the first year while you're learning the system, or is it better to try to hit the target exactly from the start?

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I handled a very similar situation last year when my father passed and I was dealing with Form 1310. The trust/no probate scenario is actually quite common these days, and you're on the right track with your thinking. You're absolutely correct to mark "No" on line 2a of Part II - that question specifically refers to court appointment, which doesn't happen when probate is avoided through a trust structure. Then mark "Yes" on line 2b since you're named as executor in the will, and "Yes" on line 3 since you have the legal authority to claim the refund. The documentation package I submitted included: a copy of the death certificate, the relevant pages of the will showing my executor designation, and key sections of the trust document (specifically the pages that established the trust and named me as successor trustee). I kept it focused - you don't need the entire trust document, just the parts that establish your authority. One thing that really helped was including a brief cover letter explaining that while the trust structure avoided the need for probate court proceedings, I remained the designated executor for tax purposes per the will. This gave the IRS clear context for why I was authorized to claim the refund without court involvement. The whole process took about 6 weeks from submission to receiving the refund check. The IRS is familiar with these trust-based estate structures, so as long as your documentation clearly establishes your legal authority, it should process smoothly. Your $4,800 refund situation sounds very straightforward compared to some of the complex estate cases they handle.

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StormChaser

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This is incredibly detailed and helpful - thank you for breaking down the exact documentation needed! I really appreciate you mentioning the cover letter approach. I was struggling with how to explain the trust situation without making it sound complicated, but your suggestion of simply stating that "while the trust structure avoided the need for probate court proceedings, I remained the designated executor for tax purposes per the will" is perfect. Your 6-week timeline is also reassuring. I've been worried about potential delays, especially since this involves an amended return on top of the Form 1310. It sounds like as long as I provide clear documentation of my authority and explain the situation briefly, the IRS should handle it routinely. Thanks for sharing your experience - it really helps to know others have navigated this successfully!

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I went through this exact situation with my mother's estate about 18 months ago - executor named in will, revocable living trust holding all assets, no probate needed. The Form 1310 Part II questions can definitely be confusing when you're in this hybrid situation. You're absolutely right to check "No" on line 2a since you weren't appointed by any court - the trust structure specifically avoided that. Then "Yes" on 2b because you're named executor in the will, and "Yes" on 3 since you have legal authority for the refund. The documentation I included was straightforward: death certificate copy, the will pages showing my executor appointment, and just the key trust sections (establishment pages and successor trustee designation). I also wrote a simple cover letter explaining that the trust avoided probate but I remained executor for tax purposes. One thing I learned - make sure to write "DECEASED" and the date of death clearly on the amended return itself. This helps the IRS route it properly. My refund was about $5,200 and took roughly 8 weeks to process, which seemed pretty standard for these situations. The IRS sees trust-based estates regularly now, so your setup isn't unusual at all. As long as your documentation clearly shows your authority to act on behalf of the estate, it should process without issues. The $4,800 amount is well within normal ranges and shouldn't trigger any additional scrutiny.

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Just wanted to add another perspective for anyone dealing with foreign income taxes. I'm a freelance graphic designer living in Portugal, and I went through this same confusion about Form 2555-EZ last year. What really helped me was breaking down Form 2555 into smaller chunks rather than trying to tackle it all at once. I created a simple checklist: 1. Gather all foreign income documents (pay stubs, 1099s, etc.) 2. Document your physical presence days (I used a simple spreadsheet) 3. Calculate housing expenses if applicable 4. Work through each part of Form 2555 systematically The key thing I learned is that even though Form 2555 looks intimidating compared to what the EZ version probably was, most expats with straightforward situations only need to fill out about half the form. Parts like III (revocation of exclusion) and VIII (business expenses) often don't apply to teachers and remote workers. Also, definitely keep detailed records of your days in and out of the country. I wish I had started tracking this from day one instead of trying to reconstruct it later from passport stamps and flight records!

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Ezra Beard

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This is such helpful advice! I'm actually in a very similar situation as a freelance writer living in Prague, and you're absolutely right about breaking it down into chunks. The form is way less scary when you tackle it section by section. Your point about tracking days is spot on - I made the same mistake my first year and had to dig through old emails, credit card statements, and even social media posts to figure out my travel dates. Now I use a simple phone app to log my location daily. Takes 2 seconds but saves hours during tax season. One thing I'd add to your checklist is to also gather any foreign tax documents early. I pay Czech taxes on my income, and having those forms ready helps when filling out the foreign tax credit sections if you end up owing any US tax after the exclusion. Thanks for sharing your systematic approach - definitely going to use this framework for my 2024 filing!

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I'm also teaching abroad (in Japan) and went through this exact same frustration last year! Just to confirm what others have said - Form 2555-EZ was indeed discontinued after 2018, so you'll need to use the regular Form 2555. Don't let the length intimidate you though. As a fellow English teacher with a single income source, you'll likely only need to complete these main sections: - Part I (basic info) - Part II (qualifying test - probably Physical Presence Test since you're teaching) - Part IV (foreign earned income) - Part VI (housing expenses if you qualify) - Part VII (calculating your exclusion) Since you're in South Korea, definitely look into the US-Korea tax treaty provisions for teachers that someone mentioned earlier. There might be additional benefits available to you beyond just the Foreign Earned Income Exclusion. One practical tip: start gathering your documentation now - all pay stubs, housing receipts, and definitely create a calendar tracking your days in Korea vs any trips back to the US. The Physical Presence Test requires you to be physically present in a foreign country for 330 full days during a 12-month period, so accurate day counting is crucial. You've got this! The form looks worse than it actually is for straightforward teaching situations like ours.

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Thank you so much for the encouragement and detailed breakdown! As someone completely new to filing US taxes while abroad, this really helps calm my nerves. I've been putting off starting because the whole process seemed so overwhelming. Your point about the Physical Presence Test is exactly what I needed to hear - I've been in Korea for about 10 months now with only one short trip back to the US for Christmas (5 days), so I should easily meet that 330-day requirement. I'll start creating that calendar tracker you mentioned right away. Quick question about the housing expenses in Part VI - I rent a small apartment here and my school provides a housing allowance as part of my compensation package. Does that housing allowance count toward the housing exclusion, or is it something different? The Korean tax documents I have are all in Korean, so I'm a bit worried about translating everything correctly. Also, really appreciate the tip about the US-Korea tax treaty. I had no idea that was even a thing! I'll definitely look into that before I start filling out forms.

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