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It's worth mentioning that if this is a side gig on top of your regular W-2 job, you might need to make quarterly estimated tax payments next year if you expect to owe more than $1000 in taxes from your self-employment income. You can get penalties if you wait until filing season to pay everything!
Omg I had no idea about this! I made about $6k from Doordash last year and didn't pay anything quarterly. Am I going to get hit with huge penalties??
Don't panic! For your first year of self-employment, the penalties are usually pretty small or might even be waived. What you should do now is make sure you're setting aside about 25-30% of your gig earnings for taxes going forward. For next year, look into Form 1040-ES for estimated payments. The due dates are April 15, June 15, September 15, and January 15. You can also potentially avoid penalties by having extra withholding taken from your W-2 job to cover your self-employment taxes. The IRS has a Tax Withholding Estimator on their website that can help you figure out the right amount.
Yes, you absolutely need to report both income sources! The $950 from DoorDash and $135 from Grubhub must both be reported on your tax return, regardless of how small the amounts seem. Here's the key rule: There's NO minimum threshold for reporting self-employment income. While companies only send 1099-NEC forms when you earn $600 or more (so you might not get one from Grubhub), you're still legally required to report ALL income you receive. Since your combined total is $1,085, you'll also need to pay self-employment tax (15.3% for Social Security and Medicare) because you're over the $400 threshold. You'll report everything on Schedule C and calculate the SE tax on Schedule SE. The good news? You can deduct legitimate business expenses like mileage (67ยข per mile for 2024), portion of your phone bill, insulated bags, car chargers, etc. These deductions reduce your taxable income and can make a significant difference in what you owe. Since both gigs are delivery work, you can combine them on a single Schedule C rather than filing separate forms for each app. Keep good records of everything in case of questions later!
This is really helpful! I had the same confusion about reporting small amounts. One quick follow-up question - when you mention deducting mileage at 67ยข per mile, does that include all the driving I do while logged into the apps, or just when I'm actually delivering food? Like, can I count the miles driving to restaurants to pick up orders, or waiting in parking lots between deliveries?
Great question! For mileage deduction, you can count ALL business-related driving while you're actively working, not just the final delivery miles. This includes: - Driving to restaurants to pick up orders - Driving from restaurant to customer - Driving between deliveries while you're logged in and available - Driving to your first pickup of the day from home - Driving home from your last delivery However, you CAN'T count: - Personal errands mixed in with work - Driving while logged off from the apps - Commuting to a "regular" workplace The key is that the driving must be for business purposes. Waiting in parking lots between deliveries while logged in would count as business time, so any driving from there to your next pickup is deductible. Just make sure to track your mileage contemporaneously - apps like Stride or MileIQ make this super easy and provide the documentation you'd need if audited. The IRS is pretty reasonable about delivery driver mileage as long as you're not claiming obviously inflated amounts compared to your income level.
This is such a common issue during tax season! The same thing happened to my sister last year - the IRS "Where's My Refund" tool kept showing her refund as deposited even though her account had been closed months earlier. What typically happens is the bank returns the deposit to the IRS within 1-3 business days of the attempted deposit, but the IRS system doesn't update to reflect this. The paper check process then takes an additional 2-4 weeks from the date of the rejected deposit. Since your refund shows as deposited on February 15th, your bank likely rejected it around February 16th-18th. This means your paper check was probably issued sometime in early to mid-March, so you should be receiving it very soon if you haven't already! A few things you can do: Call your old bank to confirm they rejected and returned the deposit (this will give you peace of mind), make sure your current address matches what's on your tax return, and if you moved recently, set up mail forwarding with USPS just in case. The money isn't lost - it's just taking the IRS time to process the returned funds and mail the check. Hang in there!
This is really reassuring to hear! I'm actually going through the exact same situation right now - my refund shows as deposited but my account was closed last month. I've been losing sleep over this thinking my money just vanished into thin air. Your timeline breakdown is super helpful. If the pattern holds true, I should be getting my paper check within the next week or two. I'm definitely going to call my old bank tomorrow to get that confirmation about the rejected deposit - that's such a smart suggestion that I hadn't thought of. Thanks for sharing your sister's experience and walking through the process so clearly. It's amazing how many people seem to go through this same scenario! Really appreciate the peace of mind.
I've been following this thread as I'm dealing with a very similar situation myself! My refund was supposedly "deposited" on February 20th, but I just realized my savings account was closed in January due to minimum balance issues after some unexpected expenses. Reading through everyone's experiences here has been incredibly helpful - especially learning that the "Where's My Refund" tool basically lies to you about the actual status when deposits get rejected. It's frustrating that the IRS system doesn't update to show what's really happening. Based on the timelines everyone has shared, it sounds like I should expect my paper check sometime in the next week or so (if the 2-4 week processing window holds true). I'm definitely going to call my old bank tomorrow to confirm they rejected and sent the funds back - that seems like the best way to get actual confirmation that the process is moving along. Has anyone here actually received their paper check yet? I'd love to hear if the timelines people predicted actually matched reality. This whole situation has been so stressful, but this community discussion has given me hope that my refund isn't lost forever!
I'm in almost the exact same boat as you! My refund showed as "deposited" on February 22nd, but I discovered my account was closed in late January when I switched banks after moving. I've been frantically checking my mailbox every day wondering where my money went. This thread has been a lifesaver - I had no idea the IRS tracker would still show "deposited" even when the bank rejected it. It's so misleading! Based on everyone's shared timelines, it sounds like we should both be getting our paper checks any day now. I called my old bank this morning after reading all the suggestions here, and they confirmed they rejected a Treasury deposit on February 23rd and returned it the same day. The representative was really helpful and even gave me the exact amount that was returned, which matched my expected refund. Such a relief to know the money is actually making its way back through the system! Definitely call your bank - it's the fastest way to get real confirmation about what's happening. Fingers crossed we both see our checks this week!
Has anyone compared what happens with futures and section 1256 contracts under regular vs MTM? I trade a lot of ES and NQ futures and right now I'm getting that sweet 60/40 split between long-term and short-term rates. Wondering if MTM would hurt or help in my case?
I do mostly futures trading and ran the numbers both ways. If you're primarily trading futures and already getting the 60/40 treatment, MTM actually worked out worse for me. Under regular rules, 60% of my gains were taxed at the lower long-term rate. With MTM, 100% would be ordinary income. But it really depends on your overall trading pattern and if you have other non-futures trading with lots of wash sales or short-term trades. For pure futures traders, the section 1256 treatment is often better than MTM.
Great thread! As someone who made the MTM election two years ago, I wanted to add a few practical considerations that might help with your decision: One thing to consider is the timing of when you actually start generating significant trading income under MTM. If you're planning to scale up your trading activity significantly in 2025, the ordinary income treatment might actually work in your favor if you're able to deduct business expenses that you couldn't before (like a home office, equipment, education, etc.). Also, regarding your multiple brokerage accounts - while the MTM election does apply to all securities under your SSN, I've found it helpful to designate one account specifically for "business trading" and another for "personal investments" even before setting up any entities. This makes the record-keeping much cleaner if you do decide to go the LLC route later. One more tip: if you do sell your NVDA position before year-end to lock in those long-term gains, be mindful of the wash sale rules if you plan to repurchase it within 30 days. Even though MTM eliminates wash sales going forward, the rules still apply to your 2024 transactions under regular tax treatment. The complexity definitely increases, but the benefits can be substantial if you're doing high-volume trading. Just make sure you have a solid bookkeeping system in place!
This is really helpful perspective from someone who's actually been through the MTM process! Quick question about the business expense deductions - what kind of expenses have you found most valuable to deduct that you couldn't before? I'm trying to figure out if the trade-off from long-term capital gains rates to ordinary income rates might be worth it just for the additional deductions alone. Also, your point about designating accounts before setting up entities is smart. I'm assuming you mean keeping detailed records showing the different purposes/strategies for each account even while they're all still under your personal SSN? That would definitely make the transition cleaner if I decide to go the LLC route later. One more thing - when you mention scaling up trading activity, are you referring to increasing volume/frequency or also expanding into different types of securities? I'm wondering if MTM becomes more beneficial at certain trading volume thresholds.
Has anyone used tax software to handle refinance points? I tried doing this in TurboTax last year and found it super confusing. It asked if I paid points but didn't clearly separate refinance vs purchase points.
I use H&R Block software and it actually handles this pretty well. There's a specific section for mortgage interest where it asks if the points were for a purchase or refinance. If you select refinance, it then calculates the annual deductible amount based on your loan term. One tip - save your closing disclosure! The software will ask for the exact amount of points paid and the length of your new loan to calculate the yearly deduction correctly.
Thanks for the recommendation! I might switch from TurboTax this year. Was starting to think I needed to hire an accountant just for this one issue.
I went through this exact same frustration when I refinanced two years ago! The timing really stings because you're paying thousands upfront but can only deduct a tiny portion each year. One thing that helped me feel better about it: even though you have to spread the deduction over 30 years, you're still getting the same total tax benefit - it's just delayed. And if you ever pay off the loan early or refinance again, you get to deduct all the remaining unamortized points in that year. Also, make sure you're tracking this properly each year. I created a simple spreadsheet showing my annual deduction amount ($4,300 รท 30 years = about $143/year in your case) so I don't forget to claim it. It's easy to overlook such a small annual amount, but over time it adds up. The IRS logic is frustrating but at least the benefit isn't completely lost!
Thanks for mentioning the spreadsheet idea! I'm definitely going to set that up because you're right - $143 per year is easy to forget but over 30 years that's real money. Quick question though - when you say "pay off the loan early" triggers the remaining deduction, does that include if I sell the house? Or only if I actually pay off the mortgage while keeping the house? I'm not planning to move anytime soon but want to understand all the scenarios. Also appreciate the perspective about getting the same total benefit just delayed. Still annoying but helps me think about it differently!
Javier Cruz
Just wondering - does being in CNC status stop penalties and interest from accruing on the tax debt? I'm considering applying for it myself.
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Emma Wilson
โขNo, it doesn't stop penalties and interest unfortunately. Your debt keeps growing while in CNC, but at least they're not actively trying to collect from you. It's a temporary solution, not forgiveness.
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Chloe Harris
I went through this exact same situation about 6 months ago! Got the 433-F request after being in CNC for about 20 months. I was terrified they were going to kick me out because my freelance income had gone up slightly. Here's what I learned: The key is being thorough and honest about ALL your expenses, not just focusing on income changes. Document everything - rent, utilities, groceries, car payments, insurance, medical costs, childcare, etc. The IRS uses standard allowable living expense amounts, but they'll consider documented expenses above those standards if you can prove they're necessary. In my case, even though my income increased by about $6k annually, my rent had gone up significantly and I had new prescription costs that weren't there before. I made sure to include every receipt and explanation. They kept me in CNC status because my actual ability to pay hadn't really improved. The review process took about 6 weeks total from when I submitted the form. Don't ignore it - that's the one thing that will definitely get you kicked out of CNC. But don't panic either. If your financial situation is still legitimately tight, you'll likely be fine.
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Miranda Singer
โขThis is really helpful to hear from someone who went through the same thing! I'm curious - when you say you documented "every receipt and explanation," did you literally attach copies of all your bills to the 433-F form? I'm wondering how much supporting documentation I should include vs just filling out the form itself. Also, did you get any communication from the IRS during those 6 weeks while they were reviewing, or did you just have to wait it out in silence?
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