IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

The Boss

β€’

Has anyone tried selling the car privately instead of donating or trading in? I know it's more work, but I sold my old Nissan for almost double what the dealer offered for trade-in. Just a thought if maximizing the money is the priority.

0 coins

I did this last year. Posted on Facebook Marketplace and sold my 2012 Civic for $6,400 when the dealer only offered $3,800. Took some time dealing with potential buyers and test drives, but totally worth it for the extra cash. Just make sure to meet in a safe place and handle the title transfer properly!

0 coins

I did a basic detailing job myself - thorough vacuum, wiped down all surfaces, and washed/waxed the exterior. Cost me about $30 in supplies and 4 hours of my time. I also replaced a broken cupholder ($15 part) and fixed a squeaky door hinge ($4 WD-40). Nothing major. The big thing that helped was having all maintenance records organized in a folder to show potential buyers. That seemed to give them confidence that the car had been well cared for. I also got an inspection report from my mechanic ($45) that showed the car was in good shape, which helped justify my asking price when people tried to negotiate.

0 coins

Nia Watson

β€’

Great thread! I just went through this exact decision last month with my 2010 Toyota Camry. After reading all the advice here about itemizing vs standard deduction, I realized I needed to look at my whole tax picture. Turns out I was only at about $8,000 in potential itemized deductions (state taxes, small charitable donations, etc.), so even adding a $4,000 car donation wouldn't get me close to the $13,850 standard deduction threshold. That meant zero tax benefit from donating. I ended up selling privately like some folks suggested here. Got $5,800 for a car the dealer wanted to give me $3,200 for. It took about 2 weeks and maybe 6-7 test drives, but the extra $2,600 was definitely worth the hassle. Plus no complicated tax implications to worry about. The key lesson for me was that the tax "benefit" of donating only matters if you're already itemizing or the donation pushes you over the standard deduction threshold. Otherwise you're basically giving away money for no tax advantage.

0 coins

CyberSamurai

β€’

This is really helpful! I'm in a similar boat with my 2011 Honda Accord. Quick question - when you sold privately, did you have any issues with people wanting to finance through their bank or credit union? I'm worried about dealing with loan paperwork and making sure I get paid properly if someone needs financing.

0 coins

Oliver Schulz

β€’

Just a heads up - you might also need to amend your state tax return if you're in a state that offers tax benefits for 401k contributions. The excess amount wouldn't qualify for state tax benefits either. Also, make sure you coordinate with BOTH former employers. Sometimes when you have two jobs in one year, each employer doesn't know about the other's plan, so neither will automatically flag the excess.

0 coins

This is a good point about state taxes. I'm in California and had to deal with this on my state return when I over-contributed to my 403b. The state adjustment was actually more complicated than the federal one!

0 coins

Nick Kravitz

β€’

One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet - make sure you understand the timing of when you need to take action. Since you haven't filed your 2023 return yet, you actually have until you file that return to get the excess contribution corrected without it being considered a "late" correction. However, the 6% excise tax on Form 5329 will still apply for 2023 since the excess remained in your account past December 31, 2023. The good news is that once you get the corrective distribution, you won't owe the 6% penalty for 2024 and beyond. Also, when working with your plan administrator, make sure they calculate the earnings (or losses) correctly using the "earnings calculation method" - they should track the performance of your specific contributions. If your account lost money during that period, the corrective distribution will actually be less than the $800 you over-contributed. Document everything carefully - keep all correspondence with your plan administrator and make sure you get the proper 1099-R when the distribution is processed. You'll need this for your tax filings.

0 coins

Ava Garcia

β€’

This is really helpful clarification on the timing! I'm curious though - when you say the excess needs to be corrected "before filing the 2023 return," does that mean I need to actually receive the corrective distribution before filing? Or is it enough to just initiate the process with my plan administrator? I'm worried about further delaying my 2023 filing if I have to wait for the actual distribution to come through.

0 coins

This has been such an enlightening discussion! As someone who works in tax preparation, I want to emphasize how refreshing it is to see a community thread where people are actually getting the gift tax rules right. Too often I see confusion about this topic, with people thinking recipients owe taxes on gifts or that gifts from multiple people get combined. The advice here is spot-on: you won't owe any taxes on these gifts, and the annual exclusion applies separately to each giver. What I'd add from a professional perspective is that it's also worth understanding that even if your uncle or family friend exceeded the annual exclusion amount, they still likely wouldn't owe any actual taxes - they'd just need to file Form 709 and it would count against their lifetime exemption. One additional consideration for your situation: make sure both parties understand that this needs to be a true gift with no strings attached. If there's any expectation of repayment or conditions (like maintaining certain grades, working for the family business, etc.), it could complicate the gift characterization. You're incredibly fortunate to have this support system! Getting rid of student debt this early will compound your financial advantages for decades to come.

0 coins

Vince Eh

β€’

Thank you so much for the professional perspective! As someone who's just learning about all these tax rules, it's really reassuring to hear from someone who works in tax preparation that the advice in this thread is accurate. I've been reading through IRS publications trying to understand gift taxes, but the way everyone here has explained it with real examples makes it so much clearer. Your point about making sure the gifts are truly "no strings attached" is really important - I hadn't thought about how conditions or expectations could complicate things. It makes sense that the IRS would want to distinguish between genuine gifts and other types of transactions disguised as gifts. This whole thread has been incredibly educational about not just the immediate tax implications, but also the broader financial planning considerations. The community knowledge here is amazing!

0 coins

Zoe Kyriakidou

β€’

As someone who recently went through a similar situation with family help for student loans, I can confirm everything that's been said here is accurate! I received gifts from both my parents and my aunt to help with my loans, and it was completely tax-free for me as the recipient. What really helped me was understanding that gift taxes are designed to prevent wealthy people from avoiding estate taxes by giving away large sums - they're not meant to penalize normal family financial assistance. The annual exclusion amounts ($17k for 2024, $18k for 2025) are specifically set up to allow this kind of generous help without any tax complications. One thing I'd add is to make sure you're emotionally prepared for being debt-free so young! I know that sounds silly, but going from having monthly loan payments to suddenly having that money available for savings and investments can be overwhelming in the best way. Consider setting up automatic transfers to savings or retirement accounts so you don't accidentally lifestyle-inflate and lose the benefit of this amazing gift. You're so fortunate to have people willing to invest in your future like this. The compound effect of starting your career debt-free is going to be incredible for your long-term wealth building!

0 coins

Andre Dupont

β€’

This is such great advice about being emotionally prepared for being debt-free! I never would have thought about that aspect, but it makes total sense. Having that extra money each month must feel almost surreal after budgeting around loan payments for so long. Your point about setting up automatic transfers is really smart - it would be so easy to just let that money disappear into everyday spending without a plan. The idea of lifestyle inflation eating up the benefits of such an incredible gift would be tragic. As someone still figuring out my own student loan strategy, this whole thread has been incredibly valuable. The combination of getting the tax rules straight AND thinking about the broader financial and emotional implications is exactly the kind of comprehensive guidance that's hard to find. Thanks for sharing your experience with going through this process!

0 coins

QuantumQuasar

β€’

Just want to point out that the IRS can refile the Notice of Federal Tax Lien during the 10-year period, which extends the time the lien affects your aunt's credit report and encumbers the property. Also, if the IRS files suit before the CSED expires, they can get a judgment that lasts WAY longer than 10 years. My suggestion would be to at least explore an installment agreement that your aunt can afford. Even small payments show good faith and might prevent the IRS from taking more aggressive collection actions while you figure out a long-term strategy. Just be aware that some installment agreements require you to extend the CSED.

0 coins

But if she's only living on retirement income, isn't that protected from IRS garnishment anyway? I thought IRAs and 401ks had some special protection.

0 coins

Derek Olson

β€’

@Keisha Jackson You re'partially right, but it s'not that simple. While 401k funds are generally protected from creditors while they re'IN the account, once distributed they become regular income that the IRS can levy. The IRS has broad collection powers and can garnish wages, bank accounts, and other income sources. However, there are some protections for retirees. Social Security benefits have strong protections though (the IRS can still levy them in certain cases ,)and there are necessary "living expense allowances" that might protect some retirement income. But if your aunt has significant assets like the house she lives in, the IRS could potentially force a sale to satisfy the debt. This is exactly why getting professional advice is so important - the interaction between retirement income, asset protection, and tax collection is complex and very fact-specific.

0 coins

Your aunt's situation is definitely complex, and the "wait it out" strategy has both merits and serious risks that need careful consideration. While the 10-year Collection Statute Expiration Date (CSED) is real, there are several factors that could make this approach backfire. First, let me echo what others have said about tolling events - these can significantly extend the 10-year period. Since your aunt is still on the mortgage for multiple properties, the IRS has substantial leverage and may be more aggressive in their collection efforts before the CSED expires. Given that she's in her late 60s and stressed about losing her home, I'd strongly recommend getting a second opinion from a tax professional who specializes in collections. The fact that she's primarily living on 401k distributions might actually work in her favor for certain relief programs or settlement options. A few specific considerations for your aunt: - Her age and income source might make her a good candidate for Currently Not Collectible status or a partial payment installment agreement - If she can prove financial hardship, an Offer in Compromise might settle the debt for much less than $230k - The stress and uncertainty of waiting 6+ more years (assuming 2017 assessments) might not be worth it compared to resolving it now I'd suggest getting the exact CSED dates from the IRS directly and having a collections specialist review all her options before committing to the waiting strategy. Sometimes proactive resolution, even if it costs something upfront, provides better long-term financial and emotional outcomes.

0 coins

Oliver Becker

β€’

This is really helpful advice, especially the point about Currently Not Collectible status. I hadn't heard of that option before. Given that my aunt is essentially living on a fixed retirement income and is in her late 60s, this might be exactly what she needs to explore. The stress factor you mentioned is huge - she's been losing sleep over this for months, and the uncertainty of waiting 6+ more years while worrying about losing her home is taking a real toll on her health. Sometimes peace of mind is worth more than saving money. Do you know if Currently Not Collectible status would stop the liens from affecting her credit or her ability to refinance if rates improve? And would pursuing that status trigger any of those tolling events that could extend the 10-year period?

0 coins

Laura Lopez

β€’

Has anyone actually used the Multiple Jobs Worksheet on the W-4? I tried following it and got completely confused by step 2. Is there a simpler way to handle this?

0 coins

Ethan Scott

β€’

The Multiple Jobs Worksheet can definitely be confusing. The simplest approach is just checking the box in Step 2(c) on both W-4 forms. It's slightly less accurate but way easier. This tells each employer to withhold at a higher single rate. If your jobs have very different salaries though (like yours do - $57k vs $19k), using the IRS Withholding Estimator online will give you more accurate results. It takes about 10-15 minutes but walks you through everything.

0 coins

Ellie Simpson

β€’

I'm in a similar situation with multiple jobs and found that the key is understanding that each employer withholds taxes as if that's your only income. This usually results in under-withholding when you add up your total tax liability. Here's what worked for me: I used the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator (it's free on the IRS website) and entered information for both jobs. It calculated that I needed to have an additional $150 per month withheld from my higher-paying job to avoid owing at tax time. The estimator will tell you exactly what to put in each section of your W-4 forms. For most people with two jobs, you'll end up putting an extra dollar amount in Step 4(c) "Extra withholding" on one of your W-4s (usually the higher-paying job). Don't forget to update your withholding if either job's income changes significantly throughout the year. I learned this the hard way when my part-time hours increased and I ended up owing $800 at tax time!

0 coins

AstroAce

β€’

This is super helpful! I'm in almost the exact same boat as the original poster with similar income levels. Did you find that $150 extra per month was enough, or did you have to adjust it again later? Also, when you say "if either job's income changes significantly" - what would you consider significant? Like if my part-time hours go from 15 to 20 hours a week, is that worth recalculating? I've been putting off dealing with this but reading everyone's experiences here is making me realize I really need to get my W-4s sorted out before I end up owing a bunch at tax time like you did.

0 coins

Prev1...12641265126612671268...5643Next