Just a heads up - don't forget about the luxury vehicle limits if your truck isn't over 6,000 lbs gross vehicle weight. My tax preparer almost missed this on my Audi that I use for real estate showings. If it's a heavy truck/SUV you might be fine, but worth checking the exact specs. Also, make sure you're really using it 100% for business if you're planning to depreciate the full amount. Even a small percentage of personal use can complicate things.

Great question! As others have mentioned, you definitely cannot claim both depreciation and mileage deduction for the same vehicle - it's an either/or situation. The IRS agent you spoke with during your 2018 audit was absolutely correct that this is a red flag. Here's what I'd recommend for your $78k truck situation: 1. **Calculate both methods** before filing - with 44,000 business miles, that's about $30,800 using the standard mileage rate (assuming 2024 rates). Compare this to actual expenses plus depreciation. 2. **Consider the truck's weight** - if it's over 6,000 lbs GVWR, you can potentially use Section 179 expensing or bonus depreciation to deduct a large portion in year one, which might make the actual expense method more beneficial. 3. **Remember the commitment** - once you choose actual expenses/depreciation for a vehicle, you're locked into that method for the life of that vehicle. 4. **Document everything** - especially given your audit history, keep meticulous records of business use percentage, receipts, and mileage logs regardless of which method you choose. Given the high purchase price and significant mileage, I'd strongly suggest running the numbers both ways or consulting with a tax professional before making the decision. The savings difference could be substantial either way.

I just wanted to share my experience with code 1581 from about 4 weeks ago to help ease your worries! Like everyone else has mentioned, it's definitely identity verification through the Taxpayer Protection Program - nothing to panic about. My timeline was: Code 1581 appeared on transcript → received 5071C letter 9 days later → completed ID.me verification same evening (took about 22 minutes including wait time) → refund processed 5 days later. A few tips that really helped me: • Do it on a laptop/desktop if possible - easier to navigate and upload documents • Make sure you have good lighting for the selfie portion, but avoid harsh shadows • Keep your phone nearby even if using computer - sometimes they send verification codes via text • Have a recent utility bill handy just in case (they didn't ask for mine, but better safe than sorry) What I found most reassuring was that once I actually started the verification process, it felt completely legitimate and professional. All my initial anxiety about whether it was real or some kind of scam just melted away. Your detective analogy is perfect - we really do become amateur cryptographers trying to decode these IRS mysteries! But your color-coded filing system is going to make this so much easier than what most of us dealt with. You're already more prepared than 90% of people who encounter this code. Don't let it stress you out too much - this community has clearly mastered the art of translating IRS hieroglyphics, and you're in great hands with all the advice here! Keep us posted on how it goes! 🔍📋

I just encountered code 1581 on my transcript about 10 days ago and went through the same initial panic! Like everyone has mentioned, it's definitely identity verification through the Taxpayer Protection Program. My timeline so far: Code 1581 appeared → still waiting for the 5071C letter (should arrive any day now based on everyone's experiences here). I've been checking my mailbox like a hawk! 📬 Reading through all these detailed experiences has been incredibly helpful. A few things I've already prepared based on everyone's advice: • Gathered all documents (driver's license, Social Security card, tax return copy) • Cleared browser cache and checked phone storage • Bookmarked the ID.me website • Set up text alerts on "Where's My Refund" tool (great tip from @Miguel Silva!) What really strikes me is how this mysterious code has created its own support network here! We've all become amateur IRS code translators helping each other navigate these bureaucratic puzzles. Your color-coded filing system sounds amazing - I'm definitely going to upgrade my own organization after seeing how prepared you are! The consistency in everyone's timelines is really reassuring. It shows this has become a pretty standardized process, even if the IRS makes it feel mysterious with these cryptic codes. Once that letter arrives, I'm planning to tackle the verification immediately rather than procrastinating. Thanks for starting this thread - it's been invaluable for turning anxiety into actionable preparation! This community is fantastic at demystifying these IRS hieroglyphics. 🗃️✨

Do I have to do anything special with 199A dividends when using FreeTaxUSA instead of TurboTax? My 1099-DIV has about $32 in box 5 for Section 199A dividends.

Just wanted to add some clarity about the thresholds for Form 8995 vs 8995-A. If your taxable income is under $182,050 (single) or $364,100 (married filing jointly) for 2023, you can use the simplified Form 8995, which is much easier. Above those thresholds, you need the more complex 8995-A. For small amounts like yours ($5.45), you're definitely in simplified territory regardless of your income level. Most tax software like TurboTax will automatically determine which form applies to your situation and handle the calculations behind the scenes. The key is just making sure you enter that Box 5 amount from your 1099-DIV correctly when prompted. One thing to watch out for - if you have multiple 1099-DIVs with 199A dividends, make sure you add them all up. The 20% deduction applies to the total amount across all your qualified sources.

I went through this exact same frustration a few months ago! The IRS EIN is definitely 52-1320843 as everyone has confirmed. What really helped me was creating a simple spreadsheet with all the commonly needed tax ID numbers (IRS, state agencies, etc.) so I don't have to hunt for them every year. One additional tip: if you're e-filing and your software seems to reject the EIN or flag it as invalid, try refreshing the form or restarting that section. Sometimes the software databases aren't updated with government EINs and it can cause weird validation errors. I had to contact my tax software's support team last year because their system kept saying the IRS EIN was "invalid" - turns out it was a bug on their end that they had to manually override. Also, keep a copy of that 1099-INT with your tax records. If you ever get audited or questioned about the interest income, having the original form showing it came from the IRS can save you a lot of headaches down the road.

As someone new to this community and dealing with tax issues, I just wanted to say thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread! I'm currently facing the exact same problem - got a 1099-INT from the IRS for interest on a delayed refund and couldn't find their EIN anywhere on the form. It's honestly pretty shocking that they don't include this basic information prominently when they require it from everyone else. I really appreciate everyone confirming that 52-1320843 is the correct EIN, and all the additional tips about entering "Internal Revenue Service" instead of "IRS" in tax software, keeping records for audits, and watching out for software validation issues. The suggestions about taxr.ai for document scanning and Claimyr for actually reaching the IRS are also really valuable - I had no idea these services existed. This thread has been way more helpful than spending hours on the IRS website or trying to navigate their phone system. Looking forward to being part of this community and hopefully helping others with tax questions in the future!

Ok everyone is overthinking this. H&R Block asks for your Roth IRA basis mainly to track your non-deductible contributions over time. The "basis" is just a fancy word for "money you already paid tax on." Since Roth contributions are made with after-tax money, all your contributions become your basis. For a brand new account with your first contribution ever, your basis is simply the amount you contributed. About the year selection issue - this happens EVERY year with tax software! They're always a bit behind.

Great question! As someone who's been through this exact same confusion, I can confirm what others have said. Your Roth IRA basis is simply the total amount you've contributed with after-tax dollars - so in your case, it's just your $6,500 contribution for 2023. For the software issue with the year not being available, don't stress about it. This is super common and selecting "None" won't cause any problems. The IRS gets the real information from your custodian anyway via Form 5498. One thing I'd add that might help: when you enter your contribution amount, make sure you're entering it as a 2023 contribution even though you're filing in 2024. The tax year that matters is the year the contribution is designated for, not when you actually made it or when you're filing. You're doing everything right by maxing out your contribution! The confusion around these forms is totally normal for first-time IRA contributors.