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Just to add some perspective from someone who's been through this transition - the new W4 system is actually much better once you understand it, even though it seems confusing at first. For your specific situation (married, 3 kids, non-working spouse), here's a simple approach: Fill out Steps 1-3 normally (married filing jointly, claim your 3 children for $6,000 in Step 3). Then for Step 4, if you want less withholding, you can estimate your itemized deductions. With a $1,350 mortgage payment, you're probably paying around $16,000+ annually in mortgage interest, which along with state/local taxes might put you above the standard deduction ($27,700 for married filing jointly in 2024). If you're comfortable owing a small amount, you could put something like $5,000-8,000 in Step 4b as an estimate of deductions above the standard deduction. This would reduce your withholding similar to claiming additional allowances in the old system. Start conservatively and adjust later in the year if needed!

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This is really helpful! I like the approach of starting conservatively and adjusting later. One question though - how do I know if my mortgage interest plus other deductions will actually exceed the standard deduction? Is there an easy way to estimate this without doing a full tax calculation? I don't want to put too much in 4b and end up owing a lot more than I'm comfortable with.

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Lucas Adams

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Great question! Here's a quick way to estimate if you'll exceed the standard deduction: Your mortgage interest is probably around $12,000-15,000 annually based on your payment amount. Add your state and local taxes (property taxes plus state income tax, capped at $10,000 total). If you have significant charitable donations, add those too. For most people with a $1,350 mortgage payment, you're looking at roughly $20,000-25,000 in potential itemized deductions. Since the standard deduction for married filing jointly is $27,700 in 2024, you might not actually benefit from itemizing unless you have substantial charitable giving or other deductions. My suggestion: Start by just filling out Steps 1-3 normally without adding anything to Step 4b. See how your first few paychecks look, then use the IRS withholding calculator mid-year to fine-tune. This way you avoid the risk of under-withholding while you figure out your actual deduction situation.

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As someone who recently went through this same confusion, I can share what finally clicked for me. The key insight is that the new W4 is designed to be more precise than the old allowance system, but it requires you to think differently. For your situation, here's what I'd recommend: Start with the basics - married filing jointly in Step 1, skip Step 2 since you're the only worker, and definitely claim your $6,000 for three kids in Step 3. That's already going to significantly reduce your withholding compared to someone without children. For Step 4, here's the thing about your mortgage - with a $1,350 monthly payment, you're likely paying around $12,000-14,000 in interest annually. However, with the current standard deduction being $27,700 for married filing jointly, you'd need over $27,700 in total itemized deductions to benefit from itemizing. Unless you have high state taxes, significant charitable donations, or other major deductions, you'll probably take the standard deduction anyway. My advice? Start by filling out just Steps 1-3 and see how your paychecks look. The child tax credits alone will reduce your withholding substantially. You can always adjust later if you're getting too big of a refund. This approach has worked well for me and eliminates the guesswork about deductions you may not even use.

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Ethan Taylor

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This is exactly the kind of step-by-step guidance I was hoping to find! I really appreciate you breaking down the mortgage interest calculation - I had no idea that with the higher standard deduction, I might not even benefit from itemizing despite having a mortgage. Your approach of starting with just Steps 1-3 makes so much sense. I was getting overwhelmed trying to figure out all the deductions upfront when the child tax credits alone will probably get me close to where I want to be. I think I'll follow your advice and fill out the basic form first, then check my paychecks after a month or two to see if I need to make adjustments. One follow-up question - when you say "see how your paychecks look," what should I be comparing them to? Should I be looking at how much federal tax is being withheld compared to my previous W4, or is there a better way to gauge if I'm on track?

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Andre Moreau

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I'm also a relatively new freelancer (about 10 months in) and I had this exact same panic attack when I got my first 2018 W-9! I literally lost sleep over it thinking I was going to mess up my taxes somehow. After reading through all these responses, I feel so much better knowing that basically every new freelancer goes through this same anxiety. It's incredibly reassuring to hear from multiple tax professionals and experienced freelancers that the 2018 W-9 is still completely current and valid. What really strikes me is how many people have shared almost identical experiences - getting that "old" form from a client, panicking about whether it's still acceptable, and then discovering it's actually the most current version the IRS has. It makes me feel so much less alone in having these worries! I'm definitely taking everyone's advice about keeping copies of completed forms and focusing on accuracy rather than obsessing over versions. This whole thread has been like a masterclass in "things I wish I knew when I started freelancing." Thank you to everyone who took the time to share their experiences and expertise - it's clear this community really looks out for newcomers!

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Jibriel Kohn

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I completely understand your anxiety about this! As someone who's been freelancing for about 3 years now, I remember having this exact same worry when I first started. The good news is that everyone here is absolutely right - the 2018 W-9 is still the current, valid version that the IRS uses. I've filled out countless W-9 forms over the years for different clients, and probably 90% of them are still using the 2018 version because the IRS simply hasn't needed to update it. The core information it collects (your name, address, SSN/EIN, business classification) hasn't changed, so there's been no reason for a new revision. What really helped me overcome my tax form anxiety was realizing that being cautious about these things is actually a strength, not a weakness. The fact that you're double-checking rather than just assuming shows exactly the kind of attention to detail that will help you succeed as a freelancer. My advice: fill out the form they sent you accurately, make sure your legal name matches exactly what's on your tax return, keep a copy for your records, and don't stress about it. You're showing great instincts by being careful, and this particular worry is something pretty much every new freelancer goes through. You've got this!

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Liv Park

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As a newcomer to this community, I'm really grateful for all the comprehensive advice shared in this thread! I'm in a similar situation with about $2,200 worth of items I'm planning to donate to Goodwill before year-end, and this discussion has been incredibly helpful in understanding the proper documentation requirements. The systematic approaches everyone has outlined - especially the photo documentation, using conservative valuation guides as baselines, and maintaining detailed records - seem like the key to handling this confidently. I particularly appreciated learning about the distinction between fair market value and thrift store retail prices, as well as the mileage deduction for donation trips that I had no idea existed. One aspect I'm still trying to figure out: when documenting condition assessments (excellent/good/fair), are there any standardized criteria you use to make those determinations consistent? For example, what specific signs of wear would move an item from "good" to "fair" condition? I want to make sure my condition assessments are reasonable and defensible if questioned. Also, for those who've used the various online tools and resources mentioned (like the Salvation Army valuation guides), do you find significant differences between them, or are they generally consistent enough that picking one as your primary reference is fine? Thanks to everyone for sharing such practical, real-world guidance - this community is an amazing resource for navigating these tax requirements properly!

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Eve Freeman

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Welcome to the community, Liv! Your questions about condition assessment criteria are really practical and important for maintaining consistency. For condition standards, I've found it helpful to use these general guidelines: "Excellent" means like-new with no visible wear, stains, or damage - basically could still have tags on it. "Good" condition shows light use but no significant flaws - maybe minor wrinkles or very slight fading but still very presentable. "Fair" condition has noticeable wear like visible stains, significant fading, small holes, or other obvious signs of regular use, but the item is still functional and wearable/usable. The key is being consistent with your own standards and documenting your reasoning. If you note "good condition - minor pilling on sleeves" or "fair condition - small stain on front," you're showing you thought through the assessment rather than just picking a category randomly. Regarding valuation guides, they're generally quite consistent with each other since they're all trying to reflect realistic resale markets. The Salvation Army guide tends to be slightly more conservative than some others, which is actually good for tax purposes - better to be conservative and defensible than aggressive and questionable. Pick one primary guide and stick with it for consistency, but don't stress too much about small differences between sources. Your systematic approach sounds perfect for handling your $2,200 in donations confidently!

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Kelsey Chin

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As a newcomer to this community, I've been following this thread and it's been incredibly helpful! I'm planning to donate about $1,900 worth of items to Goodwill before year-end and was feeling overwhelmed by the documentation requirements until reading through everyone's experiences. The systematic approach everyone has shared - taking photos, using valuation guides, keeping detailed records - makes so much sense. I especially appreciated learning about the fair market value distinction (garage sale prices vs thrift store retail) and the mileage deduction that I had no idea existed. One question I haven't seen addressed: if I'm donating items that were gifts I received but never used (still with tags), how should I handle the valuation? Should I research what they currently retail for, or treat them like used items even though they're technically new? I have several clothing items and small appliances that fall into this category. Also, with all the emphasis on conservative valuations, I'm wondering if there's such a thing as being TOO conservative. If I undervalue items significantly to be safe, am I potentially leaving legitimate deductions on the table? Thanks to everyone for sharing such practical advice - this thread has given me the confidence to tackle my donations properly rather than just guessing at everything!

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Julian Paolo

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Welcome to the community, Kelsey! Your questions about new-with-tags items and conservative valuations are really practical ones. For items that are still new with tags, you can generally value them at their current retail price since they're in "excellent/new" condition. However, be realistic about whether that retail price reflects actual market value - if it's a deeply discounted item from a clearance sale, the fair market value might be closer to the sale price than the original MSRP. The key is what someone would actually pay for the item in its current condition. Regarding being too conservative - there is definitely such a thing as leaving money on the table! The IRS expects you to make a good faith effort to determine actual fair market value, not to dramatically undervalue items. If you consistently value everything at 25% of what it's actually worth, that's not accurate either. The goal is reasonable, defensible valuations based on realistic market conditions. A good test is asking yourself: "If I had to sell this item quickly to a stranger, what would I realistically expect to get for it?" That usually lands you in the right ballpark - not too aggressive, but not unnecessarily conservative either. With your systematic approach and the documentation strategies shared in this thread, you should feel confident claiming legitimate deductions for your $1,900 in donations!

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Do I need to worry about state taxes with a 1099-NEC? My client is in a different state than where I live.

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Generally you pay state taxes where you performed the work, not where the client is located. So if you're working from your home in State A for a client in State B, you'd typically only file taxes in State A. However, some states have special rules, especially for higher income amounts. If Box 5-7 on your 1099-NEC are filled out indicating state tax withholding, you might need to file in multiple states. Might be worth consulting with a tax pro if that's your situation.

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PrinceJoe

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I went through this exact same confusion last year with my first 1099-NEC! The checked boxes can definitely be confusing when you're not familiar with the form. One thing that really helped me was taking a photo of the form with my phone so I could zoom in and see exactly which boxes were checked. Sometimes the printing quality makes it hard to tell which specific box has the mark. Also, if you're using TurboTax, it should walk you through each section of the 1099-NEC and ask you to enter the amounts from each box. Even if you can't tell which box is checked, entering the amounts from each box (most will be $0) should help the software figure out what you need to report. And yes, definitely start planning for quarterly payments next year! I learned that lesson the hard way when I got hit with underpayment penalties. The good news is that with $8,400 in income, your tax burden won't be too overwhelming, especially if you can deduct some business expenses.

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Don't forget to update your W-4 with your employer as soon as possible! I learned this lesson the hard way after my divorce.

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Emma Olsen

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Exactly this! I ended up owing over $2,300 because I didn't update my withholding after my divorce. Still paying it off on a payment plan with the IRS.

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Nia Jackson

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I'm going through a similar situation right now and this thread has been incredibly helpful! Just wanted to add that if you're considering Head of Household status, make sure you understand the "more than half the year" requirement. Since you separated in March, you'll likely qualify if your kids have been living with you since then. But also remember that Head of Household requires that you paid more than half the cost of keeping up the home where your qualifying person lived. This includes things like rent/mortgage, utilities, food, and other household expenses - not just child support. The tax savings from HOH vs Single can be substantial, especially if you're in higher income brackets. It might be worth consulting with a tax professional to make sure you're maximizing all available benefits during this transition year.

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This is really helpful information! I hadn't thought about the "keeping up the home" requirement for Head of Household. Since I've been paying the mortgage and utilities since March when we separated, it sounds like I should qualify. Do you know if there's a specific percentage I need to have paid, or is it just "more than half"? Also, does it matter that my husband might have contributed to some household expenses earlier in the year before we separated?

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