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Melissa Lin

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Has anyone used TurboTax Self-Employed for their LLC? I'm wondering how picky it is about the comma in the business name field and if it matches that format to all the forms it generates.

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I use TurboTax Self-Employed for my LLC. The software lets you enter your business name exactly as you want it, including commas. Whatever you type in the business info section carries through to all the forms it generates. Just be consistent with what's on your EIN letter.

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Melissa Lin

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Thanks for the info! I'll make sure to enter it exactly as it appears on my EIN letter. I was worried about format inconsistencies causing issues with the IRS matching systems.

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I went through this exact same confusion when I first started my LLC! After dealing with multiple tax forms and even getting a notice from the IRS about a name mismatch (turned out to be unrelated), here's what I learned: The key is to use your business name exactly as it appears on your EIN confirmation letter from the IRS. This is the "official" version they have in their system. If your state registration has the comma but your EIN letter doesn't (or vice versa), go with the EIN letter format for all federal tax documents. I keep a copy of my EIN letter handy whenever I'm filling out tax forms so I can reference the exact spelling and punctuation. It's saved me from second-guessing myself every tax season. The IRS matching systems are looking for consistency with what's in their database, not necessarily what your state has on file. For what it's worth, I've never heard of anyone getting into trouble specifically over comma placement - it's usually bigger discrepancies like completely different business names or missing the LLC designation entirely.

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This is really helpful advice! I'm just getting started with my LLC and I was wondering - when you say "EIN confirmation letter," are you referring to the CP575 notice that the IRS sends after you apply for an EIN? Or is there a different document I should be looking for? I want to make sure I'm using the right reference document for my business name formatting.

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This has been such a helpful discussion! I'm a new landlord (just bought my first rental property 6 months ago) and I've been putting off dealing with my refinancing costs because I was so confused about the tax treatment. Reading through everyone's experiences, especially the breakdown about Section B vs Section C on the closing disclosure, finally makes this manageable. I refinanced right after purchasing to get a better rate, so I have about $4,200 in closing costs that I now know how to properly categorize. One thing I'm curious about - for those of you who have been doing this longer, do you use specific software or spreadsheets to track all these amortization schedules? With a 30-year loan, keeping track of the monthly amortization amounts over decades seems like it could get unwieldy, especially if you refinance multiple times like some of you have mentioned. Also, when you're doing your annual tax prep, do most tax preparers understand these nuances about rental property refinancing costs, or do you find you need to educate them? I want to make sure whoever I work with next tax season knows what they're doing with investment property taxes.

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Mei Chen

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Welcome to the rental property world! For tracking amortization schedules, I personally use a simple Excel spreadsheet with separate tabs for each refinance. I set up formulas to calculate the monthly amortization amounts automatically, so I just need to reference it each year when doing taxes. Some people use property management software like Buildium or Rent Manager that can track this stuff, but honestly a well-organized spreadsheet works just fine. Regarding tax preparers - this is hit or miss unfortunately. Many general tax preparers don't deal with rental properties regularly and may not fully understand the refinancing cost nuances we've discussed here. I'd recommend specifically looking for a CPA or EA (Enrolled Agent) who advertises experience with real estate investors. When interviewing potential preparers, ask them specifically about how they handle refinancing costs for rental properties - their answer will tell you quickly if they know their stuff. Don't be afraid to educate your preparer if needed! Bring documentation like your closing disclosure with your own notes about which costs should be amortized vs added to basis. A good tax professional will appreciate your preparation and organization.

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Great question about tracking software! I've been managing rental properties for about 5 years now and went through several different approaches before finding what works for me. I started with Excel but found it got messy when I had multiple properties and refinances to track. Now I use QuickBooks for Rental Properties - it has built-in features for tracking loan amortization and can automatically calculate the monthly amounts to deduct. The initial setup takes some time, but once it's configured, it handles the calculations and even reminds you about the deductions at tax time. For tax preparers, I echo what @Mei Chen said - definitely find someone who specializes in real estate. I learned this the hard way when my first tax preparer incorrectly added all my refinancing costs to basis instead of amortizing them. Had to file an amended return and pay additional taxes plus penalties. Now I work with a CPA who has about 30% of her practice focused on real estate investors, and she actually catches things I miss sometimes. One tip: before your first meeting with a new tax preparer, ask them to walk you through how they would handle a hypothetical refinancing scenario for a rental property. If they mention amortizing loan costs over the loan term, you know they understand the basics!

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This thread has been incredibly educational! I'm dealing with a similar situation - just refinanced my rental duplex and have been stressing about how to handle the $5,400 in closing costs. The Section B vs Section C breakdown on the closing disclosure is genius - I never would have thought to categorize it that way. Just went back and looked at mine: most of my costs ($4,100) are in Section B (loan origination, processing fees, etc.) so those need to be amortized over 30 years. But I do have about $1,300 in Section C costs (title insurance, recording fees) that can potentially be added to my cost basis. One follow-up question: if you pay discount points to buy down your interest rate during a refinance, do those always have to be amortized? Or are there any circumstances where points can be deducted immediately for rental properties? I paid $2,000 in points and I'm hoping there might be some way to accelerate that deduction since it was specifically to reduce my ongoing financing costs. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences - this is exactly the kind of practical guidance you can't easily find elsewhere!

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Miguel Silva

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Great question about discount points! Unfortunately, for rental properties, discount points generally must be amortized over the life of the loan just like other loan origination costs, even though they're paid upfront to reduce your interest rate. This is different from owner-occupied properties where points can sometimes be deducted immediately. For investment properties, the IRS treats points as prepaid interest that needs to be spread out over the loan term. So your $2,000 in points would be amortized over 30 years, giving you about $67 per year in deductions. The one exception would be if you use the property as your primary residence for part of the year (like if you live in one unit of your duplex), but even then it gets complicated with partial deductions. I know it's frustrating to pay that much upfront and not get the immediate tax benefit, but remember that when you eventually pay off the loan (either through refinancing again or selling), any remaining unamortized points can be deducted in full that year. Plus, the lower interest rate you got will save you money every month, which is the real benefit of paying points in the first place. Your categorization using Section B vs C sounds spot-on though - you're definitely on the right track with how to handle everything else!

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This is such a timely discussion! I'm in the exact same boat - used FreeTaxUSA for years but switched to TurboTax desktop last year and got overwhelmed by all the version options. What really helped me was creating a simple checklist of what I actually need vs what sounds fancy. For basic investment reporting (regular stocks, ETFs, mutual funds), TurboTax Deluxe desktop really does cover everything. I have about 30 stock transactions plus dividend income from 4 different brokerages, and Deluxe handled it all perfectly. The key thing I learned is that the desktop versions include WAY more forms and capabilities than their online counterparts with the same names. It's honestly misleading how different they are! One more money-saving tip: if you're buying from Costco, their return policy applies to software too. So if you buy Deluxe and later realize you actually needed Premier for some reason, you can return the unopened Deluxe and exchange it. Takes some of the pressure off making the "perfect" choice upfront. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences with the different tools and services - definitely bookmarking this thread for tax season prep!

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Avery Saint

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@Amara Oluwaseyi - That s'a really smart approach with the checklist! I wish I had thought of that when I was trying to decide between versions last year. I ended up overthinking it and almost bought Premier when I really just needed Deluxe for my straightforward investment portfolio. Your point about Costco s'return policy is brilliant - I had no idea that applied to tax software! That definitely removes a lot of the anxiety about choosing the wrong version upfront. It s'especially helpful since you don t'always know exactly what forms you ll'need until you re'actually going through your documents. The misleading naming between online and desktop versions really is frustrating. I spent way too much time on TurboTax s'website trying to figure out the differences, and their comparison charts don t'make it clear at all that the desktop Deluxe includes investment reporting while online Deluxe doesn t.'This whole thread has been incredibly valuable - way better than the official TurboTax documentation for understanding the real-world differences between versions!

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This thread is incredibly helpful! I've been using the online TurboTax for years but am considering switching to desktop for better investment handling. One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet - does the desktop version handle employee stock purchase plans (ESPP) well? I participate in my company's ESPP and always struggle with the disqualifying vs qualifying disposition calculations. The online version makes me manually figure out the ordinary income vs capital gains portions, which is confusing. Also curious about state tax filing - I know you mentioned the $10 federal e-file credit, but do both Deluxe and Premier desktop versions charge the same for state e-filing? I file in California which always seems to have extra complications. Thanks for all the detailed comparisons everyone has shared - this is exactly the kind of real-world experience that's impossible to find in the official product descriptions!

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5 Red Flags That Could Trigger an IRS Audit (And How to Avoid Them)

I've been researching how to keep my tax return from getting flagged by the IRS, and wanted to share what I've found about common audit triggers. Seriously, the last thing any of us wants is that dreaded letter from the IRS! From what I've learned, there are several big red flags that make your return more likely to get pulled for review. The most concerning ones are: First, the more money you make, the more likely you'll get audited. According to stats from 2020, if you earned over $10 million, your chances of an audit were SIX TIMES higher than people making between $1-5 million. Crazy, right? The IRS definitely follows the money. The biggest thing that seems to trigger audits is missing income. The IRS gets copies of all your W-2s and 1099s, so they know if you "forget" to report something. Regular wage income has taxes automatically withheld, but nonwage income (like business profits, capital gains, dividends, interest, rental income, royalties) doesn't always have withholding, making it easier to miss and more likely to get scrutinized. Another major trigger is having big swings in your income from year to year. This hits self-employed people and business owners especially hard. If you reported $50k last year and suddenly jump to $120k (or drop to $20k), the IRS computers start wondering what's going on... they think you might be hiding income either now or in previous years. Has anyone else researched this or had experience with avoiding audits? Any other red flags I should watch for?

Avery Flores

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Does anyone know if taking the earned income tax credit increases audit risk? I qualify this year but I've heard the IRS targets EITC claims a lot.

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EITC claims do face higher scrutiny because there's historically been a high error/fraud rate in this area. However, if you legitimately qualify, don't hesitate to claim it! The key things the IRS checks are: 1. That you (and any qualifying children) have valid Social Security numbers 2. That your filing status is correct (especially if claiming as Head of Household) 3. That your income is reported accurately 4. That qualifying children meet the relationship, age, and residency tests Just make sure you meet all the requirements and can document your eligibility if asked. The EITC can be worth thousands of dollars depending on your income and number of qualifying children, so it's definitely worth claiming if you're eligible.

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Ravi Sharma

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This is really helpful information! I'm a freelance graphic designer and have been worried about audit risk since my income has been pretty inconsistent year to year. Some months I make great money on big projects, other months it's really slow. One thing I've learned from my accountant is that keeping detailed contemporaneous records is absolutely critical. I now use a separate business checking account for ALL business expenses and income, and I photograph every receipt immediately using an app that uploads to cloud storage. For anyone who works from home, be really careful with that home office deduction. The IRS is strict about "exclusive use" - that room has to be used ONLY for business, not as a guest bedroom that sometimes has a desk in it. I ended up not claiming it because my home office doubles as my art studio for personal projects. Also, if you're self-employed, consider making quarterly estimated tax payments even if you're not required to. It shows good faith effort to comply and can help avoid penalties if you end up owing at filing time. Plus it's easier to manage cash flow than getting hit with a huge tax bill all at once.

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Great advice about the separate business account and photographing receipts! I'm just starting out as a freelancer and this is exactly the kind of practical tip I needed. Quick question about quarterly payments - is there a minimum income threshold where you're required to make them, or is it always optional? I'm trying to figure out if I should start doing this now or wait until my income is more stable.

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Royal_GM_Mark

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processed = they looked at it. processing = they looking at it. paid = we still waiting 😤

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why is this so accurate tho šŸ’€

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As someone who's been through this process multiple times, I can confirm what Lauren said is spot on! The key thing to remember is that "processed" doesn't automatically mean approved - it just means they're done reviewing your return. I've had returns go to processed status and then get additional review codes added later. The real indicator is looking for specific codes like 846 (refund issued) or 971 (notice issued) on your transcript. Also check your "as of" date - if it's current, that's usually a good sign. Don't stress too much about the daily checking though, once it's processed the refund typically comes within 1-3 weeks if everything is approved!

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Juan Moreno

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Thanks for breaking this down! @d1ebf4b48088 and @591fc2fae192 both explained it really well. I'm new to checking transcripts and was getting confused by all the different statuses. So basically I should be looking for code 846 specifically rather than just the processing/processed status change? Also what does the "as of" date actually mean - is that when they finished reviewing or when the refund gets sent out?

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