Hey Natasha! I went through this exact same confusion last year. Before you go down the rabbit hole of calling the IRS or using third-party services, definitely check what AstroAce and Chloe suggested first - those are the most common causes of this error. I'd start by verifying your 2023 AGI (line 11 from last year's 1040) is entered correctly in your new tax software. Then double-check that you're not confusing a driver's license PIN field with an IRS IP PIN field - that trips up a lot of people! If those don't work, you can try the IRS "Get an IP PIN" tool online at IRS.gov to see if you actually have been issued one. You'll need to verify your identity through their system. Only if that fails would I recommend calling the IRS or looking into those callback services others mentioned. The good news is this is usually a simple mix-up rather than a real identity theft issue, especially given what you described about your financial situation. Keep us posted on what ends up working!

I see a lot of great troubleshooting advice here already! As someone who's helped family members through similar issues, I'd suggest following this order: 1. First, verify your 2023 AGI (line 11 from last year's return) is correct in your new software 2. Double-check you're not mixing up driver's license PIN fields with IRS IP PIN fields 3. Confirm your name, SSN, and filing status exactly match your previous return If those basic checks don't resolve it, then try the IRS "Get an IP PIN" tool online to see if you were actually issued one without your knowledge. The tool will tell you definitively whether you're in their IP PIN program. Only after exhausting those options would I recommend the phone route or third-party services, since the IRS lines are notoriously difficult right now. Most of these rejection errors end up being simple data entry issues rather than actual identity theft situations. Your $231 refund should be accessible once we figure out what's causing the rejection - hang in there!

I've been dealing with this same issue and want to echo what everyone's saying - the entity sale strategy unfortunately doesn't work. I learned this the hard way when my tax attorney shot down my brilliant plan to transfer properties into LLCs before selling. What I ended up doing was a combination approach that might be helpful for your situation. Since you mentioned wanting to simplify for retirement, I did installment sales on two of my properties (spreading the tax hit over 5 years) and used a 1031 exchange on my third property to swap into a DST that owns a portfolio of senior housing facilities. The installment sales really helped smooth out the tax burden - instead of getting slammed with a massive recapture bill in one year, I'm paying it down gradually while still getting cash flow from the buyer's payments. And the DST exchange let me stay in real estate without any management responsibilities while deferring all the taxes. One thing I wish someone had told me earlier: depreciation recapture is taxed at a maximum rate of 25%, not your full ordinary income rate. So if you're in a high tax bracket, the recapture portion might actually be taxed more favorably than regular income. It's still a significant hit, but not as catastrophic as I initially thought. The key is running the numbers on all your options rather than trying to find a magic bullet that eliminates the taxes entirely.

As someone who went through a similar situation last year, I can confirm what others have said - the entity sale strategy doesn't work to avoid depreciation recapture. I tried to get creative with the structure and my CPA shut it down immediately. What ended up working for me was a phased approach over two tax years. I sold one property in December using an installment sale (30% down, remainder over 4 years) and another in January using a 1031 exchange into a REIT that qualified for like-kind treatment. This spread out the tax impact while giving me more liquidity than I expected. One thing I learned that might help - if you have any properties that haven't appreciated much beyond the depreciation taken, sometimes it makes sense to just sell those outright and take the hit. The recapture tax might be less painful than the complexity and costs of some of these advanced strategies. Also consider your overall tax situation. If you expect to be in a lower bracket in retirement, it might make sense to accelerate some sales while you're still working and can offset the income with other deductions. The recapture is inevitable, but timing can make a significant difference in your overall tax burden. Don't let perfect be the enemy of good - sometimes paying the taxes and moving on with your retirement plans is the right move, especially if these properties have been good to you over the years.

I'm in a very similar situation - did a $220k Roth conversion in July and was completely overwhelmed trying to figure out the estimated payment requirements. After reading through all these responses, I'm definitely going the safe harbor route. Just wanted to add one practical tip that helped me: I called my company's benefits hotline and they were able to calculate exactly how much extra withholding I needed per paycheck to hit the 110% safe harbor threshold. They made it really simple - I just told them my target total withholding amount and number of remaining paychecks, and they handled the math. For anyone else in this boat, don't be afraid to ask your HR/payroll team for help with the calculations. Most of them have dealt with this before, especially with employees who get bonuses or have other irregular income situations. It took me 5 minutes on the phone versus hours of trying to figure out the W-4 changes myself. The peace of mind knowing I'm protected from penalties is worth way more than trying to optimize the quarterly payments and potentially making a costly mistake.

As someone new to this community but currently dealing with my first major Roth conversion, I wanted to thank everyone for sharing their experiences and advice here. This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm in a similar situation to the OP - did a $180k conversion in September and have been stressing about estimated payments versus safe harbor rules. Reading through all these responses, especially the real-world examples of people who got hit with penalties or successfully navigated the process, has really clarified things for me. The consensus seems clear: for those of us new to large conversions, the 110% safe harbor approach is definitely the way to go, even if it means overpaying slightly. The peace of mind and penalty protection is worth more than trying to optimize quarterly payments and potentially making costly mistakes. I'm planning to follow the advice about maximizing W-4 withholding for the remainder of the year rather than making estimated payments. It sounds like most HR departments are equipped to help with these calculations, which takes a lot of the guesswork out of the process. Thanks again to everyone who shared their experiences - this kind of practical, real-world guidance is exactly what newcomers like me need when navigating these complex tax situations for the first time!

I had the exact same error code 6000 issue yesterday! What worked for me was switching to incognito/private browsing mode and then accessing the Where's My Refund tool. Something about the cached data was causing conflicts. Also make sure you're using the direct link: https://sa.www4.irs.gov/irfof-wmr/login - sometimes the main IRS page redirects weird. Hope this helps while you wait for their maintenance to finish!

Just wanted to add that I experienced this exact same Error code 6000 issue last week! What finally worked for me was using a VPN to connect through a different location. Seems like certain IP ranges or geographic areas might be getting blocked during their maintenance windows. I switched my VPN to a server in Texas and was able to access the Where's My Refund tool immediately. Might be worth trying if you have a VPN service available. Also, @Zara Perez is right about the incognito mode - that's been helping a lot of people bypass the cached data issues.

I'm dealing with a similar situation right now - moved from Illinois to Arizona in March and still haven't updated my license (procrastination at its finest!). Reading through everyone's experiences here has been really reassuring. One thing I want to add that I learned from calling the IRS directly: they specifically told me that for federal returns, they only use your driver's license for identity verification purposes, not to determine your state of residence. Your state of residence for tax purposes is determined by where you actually lived and worked, not what's printed on your ID card. For Arizona state taxes, I called their department of revenue and they confirmed that as long as I can prove when I established residency (lease agreement, utility bills, etc.), the driver's license issue won't affect my filing. They said they see this situation all the time with people who move states. That said, I'm definitely planning to get my Arizona license updated before tax season just to avoid any potential headaches with verification systems flagging mismatched information. Better safe than sorry! @Sean Doyle - have you checked if Colorado has any amnesty periods for late license transfers? Some states will waive penalties if you update within a certain timeframe, even if you're past the initial deadline.

I went through this exact situation when I moved from Florida to Virginia last year! Here's what I discovered after panicking about the same thing: For federal taxes, your driver's license is purely for identity verification - it doesn't determine your tax residency. I filed successfully with my Florida license while living in Virginia, and the IRS had no issues whatsoever. For state taxes, Virginia never asked for my license number during e-filing. What they cared about was proving my residency dates and income earned in each state. I used my lease agreement, utility bills, and employment records to establish my timeline. The one minor hiccup I had was with my tax software (TurboTax) - it flagged the address mismatch and asked me to verify my identity by answering some additional security questions. Nothing major, just added about 5 minutes to the process. My advice: don't stress about the license for tax filing purposes, but definitely get it updated soon for all the other reasons people mentioned (insurance, legal requirements, etc.). I finally updated mine in December, way past the deadline, and Virginia didn't charge any penalties - they just wanted to see proof of when I actually moved. You've got this! The tax filing part is much less complicated than it seems.