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Former tax preparer here - for your specific situation, TurboTax is probably fine if you're comfortable using it. The child tax credits are pretty straightforward and TT asks all the right questions. The ONE area where a pro might help is with the house sale. There are some nuances around basis calculation, improvements you've made to the home, partial rental use, etc. that might be worth discussing. If the potential tax impact of the sale is large (like if you made a lot on the sale), it might be worth a consultation just for that piece. A middle ground could be using TT for most things but paying for a one-hour consultation with a CPA just to review the house sale portion. Might cost $150-200 but could save you more if there are strategies you've missed.
What kinds of things could be missed on a home sale? I thought it was pretty simple - if you lived there 2 of 5 years you get the exemption up to $250k/$500k depending on if you're single or married?
The basic exemption rule is straightforward, but there are several areas where people commonly miss opportunities or make mistakes. Home improvements can be added to your basis (original purchase price + improvements), which reduces your capital gain. Many people don't keep good records of these or don't know which improvements qualify. This includes major renovations, additions, new roof, HVAC systems, etc. - not regular repairs or maintenance. If you ever used part of your home for business or rental purposes, the calculation gets more complex since that portion may not qualify for the full exemption. This requires proper allocation and depreciation recapture considerations.
I used to use TurboTax but found FreeTaxUSA way better and cheaper. Works great for W-2s, investment accounts, and child credits - basically everything you mentioned. The house sale might be a bit trickier but they have good support articles.
Anyone else notice how confusing the IRS makes these forms? Like why do we even need Form 8606 for Roth contribution withdrawals when they're not taxable anyway? The whole system feels designed to trip us up!
One thing nobody's mentioned - make sure to keep detailed notes about EVERYTHING related to how they controlled your work. Write down dates, times, names of supervisors, specific instructions you were given, etc. If possible, save any emails or texts with instructions. I filed an SS-8 last year for a similar situation (event staff misclassified as contractors) and the more specific examples of employer control I could provide, the stronger my case was. The IRS specifically asked for examples of how my schedule and work methods were dictated.
Thanks for this advice. I do have some text messages from the production coordinator with specific reporting instructions and break schedules. Should I include screenshots of these with my SS-8 filing? And did you end up saving much on your taxes after going through the process?
Yes, definitely include screenshots of those text messages! They're perfect evidence of the control factor. Anything showing they dictated when and how you performed the work strengthens your case dramatically. As for tax savings, it wasn't huge for me since it was just a few days of work, but I saved about 7.65% on those earnings (the employer half of FICA taxes). The bigger impact was that the company got flagged for a broader employment tax review, which potentially helps all the other misclassified workers too.
Dont bother with the SS-8 for such a small amount IMO. I filled one out 2 years ago for a $1200 job and still havent heard anything back. Complete waste of time for small amounts, the IRS is so backlogged they prob wont even look at it for years.
That hasn't been my experience at all! I filed one for a $750 job last year and got a determination in about 4 months. I think it depends on how clear-cut the situation is. My case had obvious employee factors like required uniforms, equipment provided, and scheduled hours - sounds similar to the OP's situation.
Be careful about filing with "estimates" as some people are suggesting. If your estimates are significantly off from what your employers reported to the IRS, you could face penalties for underreporting income. The IRS has a transcript request service online where you can request your Wage and Income Transcript which shows all W-2s and 1099s filed under your SSN: https://www.irs.gov/individuals/get-transcript If the online system doesn't work for you (it requires some specific verification), you can also file Form 4506-T to request the transcript by mail. This might take longer but gives you the exact numbers your employers reported.
Thanks for the warning. I tried the online transcript request but couldn't verify my identity because my phone isn't in my name (I'm on my parents' family plan). How long does the mail request usually take? I'm worried it won't arrive in time for my deadline.
Mail requests generally take 5-10 business days to process plus mailing time, so you're right to be concerned about meeting your deadline. Since you're in a time crunch, I would recommend using Claimyr as others have suggested to get through to an IRS agent who can provide your wage information immediately over the phone. Alternative verification methods for the online transcript system include using a credit card number (doesn't have to be in your name) or getting a one-time code mailed to your address of record, but that also takes 5-10 days. The fastest solution is definitely speaking directly with an IRS agent who can read your wage information to you from their system.
Just a quick tip from someone who works in a university financial aid office - once you file your taxes, call your school's financial aid department immediately with your confirmation number from the IRS. We can often manually override the FAFSA non-filer hold on our end once we have proof you've filed, rather than waiting for the FAFSA system to update automatically (which can take 1-2 weeks). Also ask about emergency loans or payment plan options that might be available while waiting for your FAFSA to process. Many schools have short-term emergency funds specifically for situations like this.
This is great advice! I had a similar issue and my school's financial aid office was able to give me a 30-day extension on tuition payments once I showed them proof I had filed my taxes. Saved me from having to drop my classes while waiting for the loan disbursement.
Emma Taylor
Just want to add - make sure you're actually itemizing deductions before worrying about this! With the standard deduction being $13,850 for single filers and $27,700 for married filing jointly in 2023, many people don't even reach the threshold where itemizing makes sense. Unless your total itemizable deductions (mortgage interest, state/local taxes up to $10k, medical expenses over 7.5% of AGI, AND charitable donations combined) exceed the standard deduction amount, tracking these donations won't actually save you anything on taxes.
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Yara Abboud
ā¢That's a really good point I hadn't considered. Do you know if these church donations would still "count" somehow even if I take the standard deduction? I'm nowhere near the itemizing threshold since I rent my home and don't have many other deductions.
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Emma Taylor
ā¢Unfortunately, if you take the standard deduction, you can't also claim charitable donations. That's one of the trade-offs - it's either the standard deduction OR itemizing all your qualifying expenses (including charitable donations). There was a temporary exception during COVID where people could deduct some charitable contributions even with the standard deduction (up to $300 for individuals or $600 for married filing jointly), but that provision expired after the 2021 tax year. For 2023 and 2024, we're back to the normal rules where charitable donations only help you tax-wise if you're itemizing.
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Malik Robinson
Don't forget that if your total noncash donations exceed $500 for the year, you need to complete Form 8283. And if any single item (or group of similar items) is worth more than $5,000, you typically need a qualified appraisal! Don't think that applies to your situation with the toys and gift cards, but good to keep in mind.
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Isabella Silva
ā¢Is that $500 threshold per charity or total for all charities combined? I donated clothes to Goodwill ($300ish), toys to a church program ($200), and furniture to a homeless shelter ($400) last year.
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