


Ask the community...
Just a heads up - IRS recently announced increased penalties for preparers who pull this kind of stuff. The "self-prepared" trick is actually super common and the IRS is cracking down on it hard. My advice? Take screenshots or photos of EVERYTHING related to this preparer - their office location, any business cards, the paperwork they gave your parents, texts or emails if you have them. The more evidence you can provide to the IRS the better. Also check if they have a PTIN (Preparer Tax Identification Number) - legitimate tax preparers are required to have one and include it on returns they prepare. Bet you anything this person doesn't have one or isn't including it to avoid accountability.
Thanks for the advice! I didn't even think about documenting the physical location. I'll definitely take pictures next time my parents go there. Do you know if there's a way to check if someone has a valid PTIN? I looked at the paperwork again and don't see any ID number for the preparer.
There's no public database where you can verify PTINs unfortunately. If the preparer didn't include their PTIN on the return where it asks for "Paid Preparer's Information," that's a violation of IRS requirements right there. Take photos of the office exterior, interior if possible, and any signage showing the business name. If they have a website or social media presence, screenshot those too - these operations sometimes disappear overnight when they get reported. Also, if your parents paid by anything other than cash, that bank or credit card statement is valuable evidence of them using this service.
Omg this happened to my sister last year! The "tax preparer" claimed she had a home office (she didn't) and business mileage for a non-existent business. She got a massive refund and was super happy until the IRS audit letter came 8 months later. She ended up having to pay back the refund PLUS penalties and interest. Just make sure your parents understand they're 100% responsible for what's on that return even if somebody else prepared it. The IRS doesn't care who filled it out - the person who signs it is on the hook.
Did your sister end up reporting the preparer too? Just curious if anything actually happens to these people when they get reported or if they just keep scamming others.
The issue is pretty clear-cut based on IRS Publication 501. To claim someone as a dependent who's not your biological child, they must be either: 1. Your legally adopted child 2. Your stepchild (through legal marriage) 3. Your foster child (placed by authorized agency) 4. A qualifying relative who lives with you all year Since you weren't married during the tax year, your fiancΓ© can't claim your children. Period. It doesn't matter if you're getting married soon or if he supports them financially. The tax preparer was completely wrong, and honestly, I'd report them to the chain's corporate office because this is a pretty basic tax rule they should know.
Thanks for this clear explanation! So even though he pays for a lot of their expenses, the relationship test is a hard requirement? Would we need to amend both our returns now, or just his?
The relationship test is absolutely a hard requirement that can't be worked around just with financial support. The IRS is very clear on this point. You'll need to amend your fiancΓ©'s return to remove the children as dependents. You should also file or amend your return to claim them if you're eligible (meet the tests for claiming your own children). This should resolve the issue with the IRS, though you might still face some penalties or interest if there was a significant underpayment on your fiancΓ©'s original return.
I worked as a tax preparer for 10 years and this makes me so angry! The tax chain should absolutely help you fix this situation since THEY gave you incorrect advice. They're trying to avoid admitting fault by asking for a different form. Take your disallowment letter straight to corporate if the DM won't help. The specific law is in Internal Revenue Code Section 152, which defines qualifying child and qualifying relative. Being a fiancΓ© doesn't meet either test. Also, if they prepared your return with incorrect information, they should cover any penalties or fees associated with amending the return. Many tax prep companies have accuracy guarantees - check if yours does.
What about common law marriage states? Would that change anything in this situation?
Has anyone considered suggesting tax-advantaged accounts? If OP hasn't maxed out their IRA or 401k for the year, putting money there won't help with the current capital gains taxes, but it could reduce their overall tax burden.
This is what I did last year. Had about 10k in stock gains, maxed out my traditional IRA contribution for $6,500 which lowered my taxable income. Didn't eliminate the capital gains tax but my overall tax bill was lower. Every bit helps.
I actually haven't maxed out my 401k this year! Been too focused on my brokerage account since that's where I've been seeing better returns. But you're right, I should probably look at the tax advantages too. My company does a 5% match so I'm definitely leaving money on the table. Thanks for bringing this up - sometimes the obvious solutions get overlooked when you're trying to find clever tax hacks.
Remember that short-term capital gains (held less than a year) are taxed as ordinary income, but long-term gains get preferential rates. If you're close to the 1-year mark on any positions, it might be worth holding just to get the lower long-term rate. Also, don't overlook state taxes! Depending on where you live, state taxes on capital gains can be significant. Some states have no income tax (like TX, FL, WA) while others have high rates. You mentioned $14,500 in gains - what tax bracket are you in? If you're in the 12% federal income tax bracket, your long-term capital gains rate could actually be 0%!
I'm in California (ouch) and in the 22% federal bracket based on my job income. Most of my gains are long-term thankfully, but I did have a few quick trades that'll be hit with short-term rates. I've been thinking about moving to a no-income-tax state at some point, but for now I'm stuck with CA's rates on top of federal. It's a double whammy.
I'm a high school economics teacher and I dedicated two full class periods to teaching students how taxes actually work because it's criminal how little practical knowledge they're given. Made them all calculate taxes on sample incomes and they were shocked at how progressive tax brackets actually work. The best explanation I found was: "If tax brackets are 10% on the first $10k and 15% on income between $10k-$50k, and you make $20k, you pay 10% on the first $10k ($1,000) and 15% on the next $10k ($1,500) for a total of $2,500, not 15% on the full $20k." Simple explanations go a long way.
Can you share any other examples you use? I have a teen who's starting their first job and I want to teach them right from the start.
I use a tax bucket analogy with actual buckets in class. Each bucket represents a tax bracket with its rate written on it. We pour "income water" into the first bucket until it's full, then overflow into the next bucket with a higher rate, and so on. It's very visual and helps them see that only the dollars in each specific bucket get taxed at that rate. For a teen with their first job, I'd focus on explaining the W-4 form and how to calculate their likely tax burden based on their expected annual income. Also explain FICA taxes (Social Security and Medicare), which are flat taxes, versus income tax which is progressive. Most teens are surprised to learn they might not owe any federal income tax if they make under the standard deduction amount, but they'll still see FICA taxes taken out.
I didn't understand the difference between marginal and effective tax rates until my 30s, and I have a college degree! I was literally turning down overtime because I thought it would "push me into a higher bracket" and somehow result in less money. What's worse is my dad, who I thought was financially savvy, reinforced this misconception. "Be careful with raises," he'd say, "sometimes you end up with less money after taxes." Now I try to explain to friends using percentages. If you make $100k and your tax bill is $15k, your effective tax rate is 15%, even though your marginal (highest) rate might be 24%. People seem to understand that better.
You're not alone! I refused a raise for the same reason when I was younger. Such a mistake. I wonder how many people are making career decisions based on tax misconceptions?
Tyrone Johnson
One thing to consider - if the car wasn't yours or your tenant's, did you contact the police before having it towed? In some jurisdictions, there are specific legal procedures for removing abandoned vehicles, even from private property. This could potentially affect whether the expense is considered "ordinary and necessary" for tax purposes.
0 coins
Amara Okafor
β’Yes, we did call the police first! They came out and documented it, put one of those orange stickers on it, and told us we needed to wait 72 hours before having it towed. We followed all the proper channels. The police report actually said the car was reported stolen in another county, but for some reason the towing company still charged us because they said the owner didn't come claim it and they had storage fees.
0 coins
Tyrone Johnson
β’That's good to hear! Since you followed the proper legal procedures, the expense would definitely qualify as an ordinary and necessary business expense for your rental activity. When you list it on your Schedule E, I recommend noting that proper procedures were followed and that it was necessary to maintain access to the property. While you probably won't need to provide that detail unless audited, it's good documentation to have.
0 coins
Ingrid Larsson
I'm confused about safe harbor in general. Does it mean I don't have to keep receipts for small purchases for my rental? I've been saving every little Home Depot receipt even for $5 items and it's driving me crazy.
0 coins
CaptainAwesome
β’The de minimis safe harbor election does simplify recordkeeping, but you still need to keep receipts! What it really does is allow you to immediately deduct small-cost items (generally under $2,500 per item or invoice) rather than having to capitalize and depreciate them. For example, if you buy a $200 microwave for your rental unit, you can deduct it immediately rather than depreciating it over several years. But you absolutely should keep those receipts - they're your proof if audited. The safe harbor is about how you treat the expenses, not whether you need documentation.
0 coins