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I think we're overlooking an important area of growth in tax controversy - cryptocurrency compliance. The IRS is absolutely ramping up enforcement in this area. In the last 6 months, I've taken on 12 new clients with crypto-related tax issues. Many taxpayers either didn't report crypto transactions or reported them incorrectly. The IRS has been issuing CP2000 notices and initiating examinations specifically targeting these issues. Plus, with the new reporting requirements coming into effect, there's going to be even more compliance work and subsequent controversy representation needed. If you have expertise in this area (or are willing to develop it), it could be a significant growth opportunity within tax controversy practice.
Have you found any good resources for getting up to speed on crypto tax issues? I'm seeing more clients mentioning crypto but honestly don't feel confident handling the more complex situations yet.
There are several excellent resources for getting up to speed on crypto taxation. The Taxation of Digital Assets course from the AICPA is comprehensive and regularly updated. I also recommend joining the Digital Asset Tax Policy Coalition which provides excellent technical updates and practical guidance. For case-specific questions, Tax Notes has an extensive library of articles on cryptocurrency taxation that I reference frequently. The blockchain alliance also hosts monthly webinars covering emerging issues. Start with understanding the basics of capital gain/loss treatment, then build knowledge on more complex areas like DeFi, staking, and NFTs where the guidance is still evolving.
I work for a mid-sized firm and we've actually been EXPANDING our tax controversy department despite the lower audit rates. Why? Because the audits that DO happen are getting more complex and high-stakes. The IRS is increasingly focusing on wealthy individuals, partnerships with complex structures, and international tax issues. These cases often involve multiple tax years, substantial documentation, and complicated legal questions. They're not the simple correspondence audits of yesteryear. Plus, with the new partnership audit regime, centralized partnership audit cases are becoming a specialty unto themselves. Fewer audits, yes, but the ones happening require more specialized expertise and representation.
If you're in sales at a dealership, check if you've had any recent chargebacks. When customers cancel extended warranties or gap insurance after the sale (they have a window to do this), the commission gets pulled back from whoever sold it. At our dealership this shows as "customer item" on our checks.
Thanks for the suggestion! I haven't sold any extended warranties that I know of, but I did have a couple customers who got gap insurance. Do you know how long that cancellation window typically is? And would they typically tell me if a customer cancelled, or does it just show up as a deduction?
The cancellation window varies by product and state, but typically ranges from 30-90 days for most F&I products like gap insurance. Some states allow cancellations up to a year in certain circumstances. Unfortunately, most dealerships don't proactively inform salespeople about cancellations. The F&I department processes the cancellation, accounting adjusts the commission structure, and payroll just applies the deduction. It's a terrible system that leaves salespeople confused. This is definitely something to ask your finance manager about - they should be able to link that specific deduction to a customer's canceled product.
look at ur employee handbook bro. my dealer takes $$ out when we damage cars or if a customer complains about something i did. could be that maybe?
Don't forget about municipal bonds! The interest is often exempt from federal taxes and sometimes state taxes too if you buy bonds issued in your state. They typically have lower returns than corporate bonds, but the tax advantages can make up for it depending on your tax bracket.
Are these easy to buy? Do you just get them through a regular brokerage account or is there some special process? Always been confused about bonds in general.
You can buy municipal bonds through most regular brokerage accounts like Fidelity, Vanguard, Charles Schwab, etc. No special process needed. Many people find it easier to invest in municipal bond funds rather than individual bonds - they provide diversification and are more liquid. Just be aware that while the interest is tax-exempt, if you sell the bonds before maturity at a profit, you may owe capital gains tax on that profit. Also, some municipal bond interest can trigger the Alternative Minimum Tax (AMT) if you're subject to it, so look for bonds specifically labeled as "AMT-free" if that's a concern for you.
Has anyone tried Series I Savings Bonds? The interest is exempt from state and local taxes, and you can defer federal taxes until you cash them out. With inflation lately they've been paying decent rates too.
I bought some last year! Really easy through TreasuryDirect.gov though their website looks like it's from 1997 lol. You can put in up to $10k per person per year. The interest rate adjusts with inflation every 6 months. Definitely a good place to park some money that's safe from both market fluctuations AND taxes.
I'm surprised your tax person doesn't know this. It's Roth IRA 101. You absolutely CAN withdraw your contributions (not earnings) at any time without penalty or tax. That's one of the main benefits of a Roth IRA vs Traditional! The issue is probably that your 1099-R doesn't specify whether it's contributions or earnings being withdrawn. The IRS assumes it's proportional unless you document otherwise. Make sure you file Form 8606 with your taxes to properly indicate these were contribution withdrawals.
What's Form 8606? My tax software never prompts me for this when I enter my Roth info. Is this something I need to fill out separately?
Form 8606 is used to report nondeductible contributions to traditional IRAs and distributions from Roth IRAs. Most tax software should prompt for it when you enter a 1099-R for a Roth distribution, but sometimes you need to specifically look for it or indicate you want to file it. It's important because it helps track your "basis" (the amount you've contributed) in your IRAs, which determines the taxable portion of future distributions. For Roth withdrawals, it helps document that you're taking out contributions (not taxable) rather than earnings (potentially taxable). If your software doesn't automatically include it, you can usually find it in a forms search and add it manually.
Quick tip for the future - keep meticulous records of all your Roth IRA contributions by year! I've been doing this in a simple spreadsheet since I opened mine in 2010. Makes it super easy to prove to the IRS that withdrawals are from contributions. My brokerage's year-end statements don't clearly track cumulative contributions vs. earnings, so having my own records has saved me several times. Just note the date, amount, and tax year for each contribution. Takes 30 seconds each time but saves major headaches later.
Do you know if there's any way to get this historical info if you haven't been tracking it? I've had my Roth since 2017 but never kept records myself.
Norman Fraser
One thing nobody mentioned yet - make sure you keep detailed records of when you established your new residency in Texas. California is notorious for challenging residency changes, especially to no-tax states. Keep copies of your: - Lease or home purchase in Texas - Texas driver's license - Voter registration - Bank accounts changed to Texas address - Utility bills showing service start dates I moved from California to Nevada a few years ago and got audited because they didn't believe I actually changed my residency. Having documentation saved me thousands!
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Isaiah Sanders
ā¢This is super helpful advice, thank you! I have most of these documents but didn't think to keep everything organized for tax purposes. Do you know how many years California can go back to audit someone who moved out of state? I'm worried they might come after me years later.
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Norman Fraser
ā¢Generally, California has 4 years from the date you filed your return to audit you. However, if they suspect you substantially underreported income, they can go back 6 years. If they suspect fraud, there's no time limit at all. The most important thing is being able to prove the specific date you ended your California residency. They'll look for contradictory evidence - like if you kept a California driver's license, maintained your primary physician there, or kept significant banking relationships in the state. Make sure everything aligns with your claimed residency change date, and keep those records for at least 6 years.
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Kendrick Webb
Has anyone used FreeTaxUSA for a part-year state return? I'm in a similar situation (moved from Illinois to Georgia) and TurboTax wants to charge me extra for the state return. Wondering if the cheaper option can handle this type of filing.
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Hattie Carson
ā¢I used FreeTaxUSA for my move from Michigan to Tennessee last year and it handled the part-year residency return just fine. Their interface for state returns isn't as polished as TurboTax, but it walks you through all the necessary questions about residency dates and income allocation. Saved me like $70 compared to TurboTax and got the same refund amount.
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