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Just to add more context to this discussion - I've been filing non-resident returns for years, and here's what you need to know: 1. The 25% withholding on property sales is under section 116 of the Income Tax Act 2. The T2062 allows for a reduction of that withholding based on the actual gain vs. gross proceeds 3. When filing the T1-NR, the actual gain goes on Schedule 3 4. The non-resident tax rate is a flat 25% on taxable Canadian property gains 5. Any withholding tax (minus amounts already refunded through the T2062 process) goes on line 43700 Make sure you also include form NR73 if there's any question about residency status, as the CRA is very strict about this.
Thank you so much! This breakdown is super helpful. Quick follow-up though - for the actual amount of withholding, should I be using what was initially withheld ($78k) or the net amount after they already got that partial refund through the T2062 process?
You should use the net amount after the partial refund. So if $78k was initially withheld but $22k was already refunded based on the T2062 adjustment, you'd report $56k on line 43700 as the withholding tax amount. The CRA system should already have a record of both the initial withholding and the T2062 adjustment, but I always recommend including a brief note with the return explaining these amounts to avoid any confusion during processing.
Is it necessary to file a provincial return as well for a non-resident property sale? My client sold property in BC and I'm not sure if I need to complete a separate provincial form or if it's all handled in the T1-NR.
For non-residents, you don't need to file a separate provincial tax return. The federal T1-NR handles both federal and provincial taxation. Non-residents pay a flat 25% federal tax on taxable Canadian property, with no separate provincial component. Just make sure you're correctly identifying the property's location on the return since this affects CRA's internal processing, but you won't need to complete any provincial-specific forms for a non-resident property sale.
Bit of practical advice from someone who's been in your situation - Goodwill and Salvation Army both publish donation value guides that the IRS generally accepts. I print these guides and use them as reference when documenting donations. For bulk donations, I sort items into categories (men's shirts, kitchenware, etc.) and count/estimate quantities. Then I take photos of everything sorted before loading it up. I made a simple spreadsheet template with common categories that I fill out for each donation trip. When tax time comes, I have a record of each visit with categories, quantities, and values that align with published valuation guides. Been doing this for years without issues.
That's really practical advice, thank you! Do you happen to have a link to these donation value guides? And what level of detail do you go into for categories? Like do you just say "men's shirts" or do you break it down further into "men's t-shirts" vs "men's dress shirts"?
Salvation Army's valuation guide is here: https://satruck.org/Home/DonationValueGuide and Goodwill has one but it varies slightly by region. I definitely recommend breaking categories down to a reasonable level - not just "men's shirts" but "men's t-shirts" vs "men's dress shirts" vs "men's polos" since they have different values. Same with women's clothing, children's items, etc. For household goods, I separate by room (kitchen, bathroom, decor). The key is finding the balance between being thorough without making it impossibly detailed. Taking photos of sorted piles with your phone works great as backup documentation. I've been through two minor IRS inquiries about my donations over the years and this system held up both times.
I'd be careful about claiming too much without proper documentation. My brother got audited for donation deductions and it was a nightmare! The IRS wanted receipts for EVERYTHING and they rejected his "estimates." They ended up disallowing like 70% of his claimed donations and hitting him with penalties. For bulk donations, the advice I got from my accountant was to take video walking through all items before donating, get detailed receipts, and keep a spreadsheet with conservative values. Better to claim less than you actually donated than risk an audit nightmare.
This is why I barely claim any donations anymore. The documentation requirements are insane and it's not worth the risk. I donate tons of stuff but usually just claim a token amount like $500 for the year. Peace of mind is worth more than the tax savings to me.
Just wanted to add some clarity on the 200DBHY methods you mentioned: 200DBHY-7 = 200% declining balance with half-year convention over 7 years (for office furniture) 200DBHY-3 = 200% declining balance with half-year convention over 3 years (for phone) 200DBHY-5 = 200% declining balance with half-year convention over 5 years (for computers) The reason your desk and MacBook showed $0 federal depreciation is almost certainly because of Section 168(k) bonus depreciation. For 2022 purchases, 100% bonus depreciation was available federally, meaning the full cost was deducted in year 1. But California doesn't conform to this federal provision. In FreeTaxUSA, you'll need to enter these as "existing assets" and make sure you input the correct "prior depreciation" amounts from your 2023 return. The software should then calculate the correct 2024 amounts for you.
Thanks so much for breaking down those method codes! That makes much more sense now. So if I understand correctly, my desk and MacBook were essentially "fully depreciated" for federal purposes in the first year because of the 100% bonus, but for California they're still on their regular depreciation schedules? When I enter these as existing assets in FreeTaxUSA, do I need to enter different prior depreciation amounts for federal vs state? Or does the software handle that difference automatically?
Yes, you've got it exactly right! For federal purposes, your desk and MacBook were fully depreciated in the first year thanks to 100% bonus depreciation available in 2022. But for California, they're following their normal depreciation schedules over 7 and 5 years respectively. FreeTaxUSA should handle the federal vs state difference automatically once you input the correct information. You'll want to enter the assets with their original acquisition dates, costs, and depreciation methods. For "prior depreciation," enter the cumulative federal depreciation taken to date (which would be the full amount for the desk and MacBook, and the partial amount for the iPhone). The software will then apply the correct state adjustments automatically. If you want to double-check the calculations, the state return should include a specific form showing the depreciation differences between federal and California.
Just sharing what I learned when I had a similar issue - the 200DBHY methods sometimes change rates during later years of depreciation. For example, with 200DBHY-5 (like your MacBook), it starts with 200% declining balance but switches to straight-line when that gives a larger deduction, usually in year 4 or 5. So even if you had no bonus depreciation, the annual amounts wouldn't be the same each year. This trips a lot of people up.
Something to consider - even though you technically only need to fill out Part 3, I usually fill in zeros for the lines in Parts 1 and 2 that don't apply to me rather than leaving them completely blank. My accountant friend told me that completely blank sections can sometimes trigger additional scrutiny, while zeros clearly show you didn't skip anything by accident. Probably doesn't matter much either way, but thought I'd share what I've been doing for years without any issues.
If you put zeros in Parts 1 and 2, do you need to do any calculations or just literally put 0 in each box? And have you ever been audited or questioned about your Roth withdrawals?
You just put a zero in each box, no calculations needed for parts that don't apply to your situation. It's just to show you didn't accidentally skip that section. I've never been audited specifically about my Roth IRA withdrawals. I did get a general review letter once about three years ago, but it was about something completely different (they questioned some business deductions). My Roth withdrawal reporting with the zeros-not-blanks approach has never been flagged in the 12 years I've been doing it this way.
Quick question for everyone - I'm using TurboTax to file and it's automatically filling in some fields in Parts 1 and 2 even though I only have Roth contribution withdrawals. Should I override it to leave those parts blank or just let the software do its thing?
In my experience, let the software do its thing. TurboTax is programmed to complete forms correctly based on your inputs. If it's filling parts 1 and 2, it's probably putting zeros or calculating something based on your overall tax situation that might be relevant. Tax software is designed to handle these nuances.
Mei Wong
Former tax preparer here. You should know that the advice about home office deductions automatically triggering audits is extremely outdated. In my 12 years of practice, I've had plenty of clients claim legitimate home office deductions with zero issues. Your space absolutely qualifies based on your description - it's a defined area used exclusively for business. The 10% of your apartment seems reasonable and accurate. What matters most is: 1. You used it regularly for business 2. You used it exclusively for business (no watching Netflix there!) 3. It was your principal place of business for that activity Document everything now while your memory is fresh - draw a floor plan, write down descriptions, note what business activities you conducted there. This documentation will help if questions ever arise.
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Mateo Lopez
ā¢Thanks so much for this reassurance! I'm still a bit nervous about taking the deduction without photos. For the documentation you mentioned - would a detailed written description with measurements and a hand-drawn floor plan be sufficient? Or should I try to find other proof like emails sent from that workspace?
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Mei Wong
ā¢A detailed written description with measurements and a hand-drawn floor plan is absolutely sufficient documentation. Date it and keep it with your tax records. Including details about the built-in desk, the three walls forming the alcove, and how you used the space for specific business activities strengthens your case. Adding some supporting evidence like business emails, client invoices you created there, or phone records showing client calls would be helpful supplementary documentation, but not strictly necessary. The IRS understands that people move and may not have photographs of previous spaces. Your contemporaneous written records are considered valid documentation, especially when they're detailed and consistent with your business activities.
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Liam Fitzgerald
Is TurboTax good for handling home office deductions for self-employed people? I'm in a similar situation but trying to do it myself.
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PixelWarrior
ā¢TurboTax Self-Employed version handles home office deductions pretty well. It walks you through all the questions and helps calculate both the regular and simplified methods. I've used it for the past 3 years with no problems. Just make sure you get the Self-Employed version, not the regular one.
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