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Something nobody's mentioned yet - make sure to keep VERY detailed records if you do this. My brother-in-law got audited last year for exactly this issue in his architectural firm. What saved him was having: 1. Photos of all items displayed in the office 2. A written business justification for each piece 3. Documentation that they never left the business premises 4. Testimony from clients that the decor enhanced their professional experience
Did his written justification actually make a difference? I'm not sure what I would even write beyond "it makes the office look professional"... any specific suggestions for what to include?
The written justification absolutely made a difference. The auditor specifically mentioned it as a key factor. Don't just write "makes the office look professional" - be specific about how each item contributes to your business goals. For example, my brother-in-law's justification included how certain art pieces demonstrated architectural principles relevant to client projects, created talking points that helped establish rapport with clients, and showcased the aesthetic sensibilities that clients were hiring him for. For your law practice, you might explain how local sports memorabilia helps connect with local business clients and creates a comfortable atmosphere for discussing sensitive estate planning matters.
Has anyone used a separate business entity to purchase and own the art? I've heard some attorneys create a separate LLC that purchases and displays the art, then leases it to their primary practice. Supposedly this creates a cleaner separation for tax purposes.
I've done this! Created an LLC that owns all office decor and leases it back to my main business. Makes depreciation super clean and creates a clear business purpose. Just make sure the lease agreement is properly documented and the rental amount is reasonable market value. My tax guy says this arrangement is much easier to defend in an audit.
Just want to add a different perspective - I'm a payroll administrator and we've seen this issue CONSTANTLY this year. The IRS did adjust withholding tables, but the real issue is the W-4 form redesign that many people still haven't updated. If you and your spouse both work and you're using old W-4 forms or haven't checked the "two jobs" box on the new forms, you're almost guaranteed to be under-withheld. I recommend every dual-income household run their numbers through the IRS Withholding Estimator tool (it's free): https://www.irs.gov/individuals/tax-withholding-estimator The problem is so common that our HR department now sends quarterly reminders to all employees about checking their withholding.
Thanks for this perspective! I just checked our W-4s online through our employers' portals and yep - neither of us had checked that "two jobs" box. Do you think it's worth trying to get an extension to file since we owe so much? And will we get hit with underpayment penalties?
You can absolutely file for an extension using Form 4868, which gives you until October 15 to file your return. However, it's important to understand that this is only an extension to file the paperwork, not an extension to pay what you owe. You'll still need to estimate and pay your tax by the regular deadline to avoid penalties and interest. Regarding underpayment penalties, you might avoid them if you meet one of the safe harbor provisions: if your withholding and estimated payments cover either 90% of your current year tax or 100% of your prior year tax (110% if your AGI was over $150,000). If you were getting refunds in previous years, you might qualify under the prior year tax safe harbor, but you should check your specific situation.
Has anyone tried adjusting their W-4 through their employer's online portal? My HR says I can do it there but I'm worried about messing it up even more. Do I just check the box in Step 2 for two jobs or do I need to fill out the multiple jobs worksheet too?
The online portal is perfectly fine to use for W-4 adjustments. For most people with two relatively similar-paying jobs (like married couples where both work), simply checking the box in Step 2(c) is the easiest approach. This basically tells your employer to withhold at the higher single rate rather than the married rate. If your jobs have very different salaries, or you have more than two jobs, the multiple jobs worksheet or the IRS withholding calculator will give you more accurate results. You'd enter an additional amount to withhold in Step 4(c) based on those calculations.
To answer the original question from a different angle - while getting close to zero is mathematically optimal, there are actually some psychological benefits to getting a refund that shouldn't be dismissed. For many people, that annual "windfall" becomes their only meaningful savings all year. Yes, it's technically an interest-free loan to the government, but the "forced savings" aspect can be valuable for people who struggle to save otherwise. The key is making an intentional choice rather than just letting your withholding happen by default. If you decide you want a refund as a forced savings mechanism, that's valid! Just recognize that you're prioritizing the psychological benefit over the small amount of interest you might earn.
How much interest are we really talking about though? Like if someone gets a $3000 refund, how much are they actually losing by letting the government hold it?
The interest amount depends on what you would have done with the money instead. Using your $3000 example, if that refund built up gradually over the year (about $250/month): If you'd put it in a high-yield savings account at 3.5%, you'd have earned roughly $60 in interest over the year. Not life-changing, but it's something. If you used that monthly amount to pay down credit card debt at 18% interest, the impact would be much more significant - potentially saving around $300 in interest charges over the year. And if you invested it in the market with an average 7% return (obviously with more risk), that theoretical long-term value would be about $110 in potential growth. So it really depends on your personal financial situation. If you have high-interest debt, the cost of overwithholding is much higher than if you'd just park it in a savings account.
Fun fact: the average tax refund is around $3,200, which means the average taxpayer is letting the government hold about $266 of their money each month. Anyone else find it weird that we've normalized giving interest-free loans to the government?
Make sure you're aware of the FAFSA deadlines! The federal deadline is usually June 30th, but many states and colleges have much earlier priority deadlines (some as early as February). Even though the FAFSA only needs your federal tax info, waiting too long could impact your aid eligibility for state grants or institutional scholarships.
Do you know if most schools' financial aid departments can help with FAFSA issues related to taxes? My situation is kinda complicated with late filing too.
Yes, most schools' financial aid offices can definitely help with FAFSA issues related to taxes. They deal with these situations constantly and often have specific procedures for students with unusual tax circumstances. They can sometimes also offer guidance about whether you might qualify for special circumstances consideration if your financial situation has changed since the tax year used for the FAFSA. Don't hesitate to reach out to them directly - they're usually very helpful and can sometimes offer solutions you wouldn't know about otherwise.
Just a heads up - I also use FreeTaxUSA for my federal return for free, but for state taxes, check your state's direct filing options. Many states offer completely free filing directly through their Department of Revenue website. I saved like $15 last year by going directly through my state's website instead of paying FreeTaxUSA for the state return.
Thanks for the tip! I didn't realize states might offer their own free filing options. I'll definitely check out my state's website. Would save me that $25 which is significant when you're a broke student!
Malik Johnson
Just to add some clarity to the original question - the Mortgage Interest Credit (Form 8396) is completely different from the regular mortgage interest DEDUCTION most homeowners claim. The deduction is available to pretty much anyone with a mortgage who itemizes. The credit is a special program you would've specifically applied for when buying your home. When you refinanced, the software probably just wanted to check if you had an MCC that needed to be reissued. If you never had one to begin with, it doesn't apply to you at all.
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Keisha Jackson
ā¢That's a huge help! So this is entirely separate from my regular mortgage interest deduction that I claim every year? I definitely itemize and take that deduction.
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Malik Johnson
ā¢Yes, completely separate things! The mortgage interest deduction is taken on Schedule A when you itemize, and that's what most homeowners use. You'll still get that. The Form 8396 credit is an entirely different benefit that only applies to people who received a special certificate through a first-time homebuyer program. If you never received a Mortgage Credit Certificate when you first bought your home, then Form 8396 simply doesn't apply to you. Just answer "no" to that question in H&R Block and continue claiming your regular mortgage interest deduction as you've been doing.
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Isabella Santos
PSA for anyone who refinanced recently: Even though you probably don't have Form 8396, make sure you're correctly reporting points paid on your refinance! Points for a refinance have to be amortized over the life of the loan, not deducted all at once like with an initial purchase.
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Ravi Sharma
ā¢Good point! I completely forgot about this when I refinanced and ended up having to amend my return last year. Cost me an extra $120 for the amendment filing fee š«
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Isabella Santos
ā¢That's a bummer about the amendment fee! Yeah, it's one of those details that's easy to miss. Most tax software should handle it automatically if you enter everything correctly, but it definitely requires entering all your refinance details properly.
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