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So I've been assisting a couple of friends with their tax returns using TurboTax, and I stumbled across something interesting. Both initially went through TurboTax's standard interview process on their own but got confused with some sections and asked for my help. What I noticed is that even though they have similar income situations (both W-2 employees with some side gig income), their returns look completely different in terms of form organization and attachment sequence. One friend's return had all these extra worksheets and explanations while the other was much more streamlined. I'm wondering if this is because they answered questions differently during the interview process? Or maybe because one of them has been using TurboTax for years while the other is new to it? Does TurboTax customize the actual structure and sequence of the final tax return based on user history or is it purely based on the tax situation? Just curious how the software determines what gets included in the final package and if there's any way to control this to make returns more consistent. Thanks!
I'm currently self-employed and have been struggling with my tax situation for about 4 years now. I set up an installment agreement with the IRS where I'm paying $4000 per month, and I've been doing this for around 3 years. The problem is my balance keeps growing instead of shrinking! It seems like they just keep adding my new tax balances from 2021 and 2022 onto my existing agreement. As of mid-December 2023, my balance is sitting at $95,678.43, but once I file my 2024 taxes, this is going to jump by another ~$75k while only being reduced by the $4k monthly payments. I've started to set aside more of my income for taxes, but it's really difficult when I'm already shelling out $4k monthly on the installment plan. I'm worried about what happens when the balance gets too large. Will the IRS eventually just cancel my installment agreement? I'm trying to be more frugal and get out of this mess, but it feels like I'm treading water. Has anyone else been through something similar? What happens if your balance keeps growing while you're on an installment plan?
Have you considered filing for an Offer in Compromise (OIC)? With that amount of debt and if your financial situation truly doesn't allow you to pay it all, the IRS might accept a settlement for less than the full amount. You'll need to complete Form 656 and Form 433-A (or 433-B for businesses). The success rate isn't super high, but if you can demonstrate that you'll never reasonably be able to pay the full amount, it's worth trying. I had a client with $120k in tax debt get it settled for about $30k through this process. Just make sure all your documentation is thorough.
I've heard about OIC but wasn't sure if I'd qualify. Do they look at your assets too? I own my house with some equity in it and have a couple of vehicles. Would that disqualify me?
Yes, they absolutely look at your assets. The IRS typically expects you to liquidate or borrow against assets with equity before they'll approve an OIC. They calculate your "reasonable collection potential" based on your income, expenses, and asset equity. For your home, they'll consider the quick sale value (usually 80% of market value) minus any mortgages and exemption amounts. For vehicles, they'll look at equity beyond what's needed for basic transportation. Having assets with equity doesn't automatically disqualify you, but you'll need to account for that equity in your offer amount.
Has anyone tried doing a partial pay installment agreement? I heard its easier to qualify for than an OIC but still lets you pay less than the full amount?
I got a Partial Payment Installment Agreement (PPIA) last year. It's definitely easier than OIC but still required full financial disclosure with Form 433-F. The key difference is that with PPIA, you make payments based on what you can afford until the collection statute expires (usually 10 years from assessment). After that, the remaining balance is forgiven.
My husband and I are looking into hiring a nanny for our 2-year-old daughter. We're thinking about 20-25 hours per week, but I'm completely confused about the tax situation. There's so much conflicting information online! From what I've gathered, we have two main options: 1. Get an EIN, treat the nanny as a household employee, withhold Social Security/FICA taxes, and provide a W2 at the end of the year. 2. Classify them as an independent contractor and issue a 1099. Honestly, the whole employee route with EIN and withholding SS/FICA seems excessive for someone just watching our kid part-time. The 1099 approach feels more straightforward to me. How do you determine which classification (W2 vs 1099) is appropriate? Do we get to choose, or is there a specific rule? Are there other legitimate options I'm missing? I'd really prefer to just send money through Venmo weekly and keep it simple, but apparently that's considered tax fraud. Any guidance would be appreciated!
I've been a nanny for over 10 years and I can tell you that legitimate nannies PREFER to be W-2 employees! When families try to 1099 me, I explain that it's misclassification and actually costs me more in taxes (self-employment tax is 15.3% vs the 7.65% that each party pays for regular employment). Plus, as a W-2 employee I get unemployment protection, verifiable income for apartments/car loans, and proper Social Security credits. Being paid properly also means I'm covered by workers' comp if I get injured on the job. The families who do it right are the ones who keep great nannies long-term!
Do you ever help families set up the payroll stuff? My nanny keeps saying she wants to be "on the books" but neither of us know where to start.
I don't personally set it up for families, but I do point them toward resources. Many use household payroll services like HomePay, SurePayroll, or Poppins Payroll that specialize in nanny taxes. They handle all the paperwork, tax withholding, and filings for around $40-60/month. I also recommend they check the IRS Publication 926 (Household Employer's Tax Guide) which explains everything. Most families find that once they have a system set up, it's pretty easy to maintain and gives everyone peace of mind.
Just a quick tip - don't overlook state requirements too! Federal is just part of it. Depending on your state, you might also need: 1. State unemployment insurance account 2. Workers' compensation insurance 3. State-specific new hire reporting 4. Paid sick leave compliance We found this out the hard way after getting everything set up federally then realizing we had state obligations too.
Quick question for the tax experts out there. I'm preparing K1s for a partnership that only has C-Corporation partners. Do I still need to complete the 199A section on the K1s in this situation? It seems redundant since C-Corps don't qualify for the QBI deduction anyway, but I want to make sure I'm following all requirements correctly. This is my first year handling this particular partnership's returns and I don't want to miss anything important. Thanks in advance for any guidance!
One thing to consider: while the 199A section isn't technically required for C-Corp partners, some tax software will generate errors or warnings if those fields are left blank. In our practice, we sometimes just put zeros in those fields to avoid the software throwing validation errors during e-filing. It's annoying but sometimes easier than fighting with the software.
That's a great point about the tax software! Which software are you using that gives you trouble with blank 199A sections? I'm using ProSeries right now.
I've had this issue with both UltraTax and Lacerte in previous years. ProSeries is actually a bit better about this particular situation, but you might still get a "soft" warning that you can override. For ProSeries specifically, you can usually bypass these warnings without entering zeros, but I've found that checking the box that says "QBI Not Applicable" in the 199A section often prevents the warnings altogether. The software is getting better each year at recognizing these situations, but it's still not perfect.
Just my 2 cents from experience: Always check the instructions for Form 1065 for the current tax year. The IRS occasionally updates requirements and what wasn't required last year might be required this year. For tax year 2022, page 39 of the instructions specifically stated that if all partners are C corporations, you can skip most of Section 199A, but you still had to check a box indicating this situation applies. Haven't seen the 2023 instructions yet.
I'm really confused about how capital loss carryovers work. Last year (2023) I had a pretty substantial capital loss of $24,000 and carried over $21,000 of that loss to 2024. I've always been under the impression that I could only apply $3,000 of carried-over losses against my ordinary income each year for the next seven years. But when I was doing my taxes on FreeTaxUSA this weekend, it's applying way more than just $3,000 of my carried-over loss for 2024. Is this actually correct? Can I use more than the $3,000 limit in certain situations? Or is the tax software making a mistake? I'm worried about getting it wrong and having problems with the IRS later. Thanks for any help!
Just to add another perspective - I had a similar situation but with even larger losses (about $42,000 from some terrible stock picks in 2023). My accountant explained it like this: 1. First, use your capital loss carryover to offset ANY capital gains in the current year (unlimited amount) 2. Then, you can use up to $3,000 of remaining losses to offset ordinary income 3. Any unused losses get carried forward to future years This is actually a really important distinction because many people think the $3,000 is the total you can use each year, which isn't correct. If you have $10,000 in capital gains this year, you could potentially use $13,000 of your carryover ($10,000 for the gains plus $3,000 against ordinary income).
Does the ordering matter? Like what if I have both short-term and long-term losses carried over, and both short-term and long-term gains this year? Is there a specific way these have to be applied?
Yes, the ordering definitely matters because it can affect your tax rate. The IRS has specific rules for how losses and gains are netted against each other. First, short-term losses offset short-term gains, and long-term losses offset long-term gains. Then, if you have net losses in one category and net gains in the other, those net figures are used to offset each other. This is important because short-term gains are taxed at your ordinary income rate, while long-term gains get preferential tax rates.
Quick question - if i understand right, I can only carry over losses if I report them in the year they happen right? I had some stocks that tanked in 2023 but I didnt sell them until this year (2024) so I get the loss for 2024 taxes not 2023?
You're absolutely right. You have to actually sell the investment (realize the loss) to claim it on your taxes. Holding onto stocks that have gone down in value doesn't create a tax loss you can claim - it's only when you sell them that the loss becomes "realized" and can be used on your tax return.
Anastasia Kuznetsov
Lol I don't think TurboTax is doing anything weird, it's just that taxes are complicated af. I worked at a tax prep place for 2 tax seasons and returns for people with nearly identical situations would end up looking totally different based on tiny details. Like one W-2 employee with a kid might get EIC and need all those worksheets, while another W-2 employee with a kid who makes $1000 more doesn't qualify for EIC and gets a much simpler return. The software is just following tax law, which is stupidly complicated.
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Sean Fitzgerald
Is there any way to tell TurboTax to be more consistent? Like maybe a setting to always include explanations or something? I'm preparing returns for multiple family members and it would be easier to explain if they all had similar structures.
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Anastasia Kuznetsov
Nah, not really. The tax software has to include certain forms based on specific tax situations - there's no override for that. The IRS expects specific forms for specific situations, and the software complies with those requirements. For the explanation worksheets, those are typically included based on automated triggers within the software. TurboTax might include more detailed explanations when amounts are close to thresholds or when there are multiple factors affecting a calculation.
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Zara Khan
Curious if anyone has noticed a difference between the desktop and online versions of TurboTax? My brother and I have almost identical tax situations (similar W-2 income, both claim one child, both have mortgage interest) but his online version created a much more compact return than my desktop version which had like 10 extra pages.
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MoonlightSonata
Yes! The desktop version tends to include more supplementary worksheets and explanations. I've used both and the desktop version consistently produces longer returns with more supporting documentation. I think it's actually a feature of the desktop version since it's marketed more toward complex situations.
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