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Just to add some practical advice from someone who did a cost seg study last year on a similar sized commercial property: make sure you get multiple quotes! I was quoted between $4,500-$12,000 for basically the same service. Also, timing matters. If your building is still under construction, take LOTS of photos before walls get closed up. Document everything! My biggest regret was not having enough photos of the electrical, plumbing, and HVAC components before drywall went up. Those components can often be reclassified for faster depreciation, but without proper documentation, the cost seg engineers had to make conservative estimates.
Thanks for the practical advice! We're still at the stage where most of the walls are open, so I'll definitely start taking detailed photos of everything. Did you use a national cost seg company or a local firm? And roughly how much did you end up saving in first-year taxes compared to traditional depreciation?
I went with a regional firm that specialized in commercial properties in our area. They had good familiarity with local building codes and construction methods which actually helped identify more components for acceleration. In terms of tax savings, it was substantial. Our building cost about $400k (not including land), and the study identified roughly 28% of the costs that could be depreciated over 5, 7, or 15 years instead of 39 years. Combined with the bonus depreciation available that year, we were able to deduct about $115k in the first year instead of around $10k with straight-line depreciation. At our tax bracket, that translated to approximately $35,000 in actual tax savings the first year. Just remember those are deductions you're accelerating from future years, so it's mainly a timing benefit - but getting those savings upfront is extremely valuable, especially if you're reinvesting in your business.
I've done several cost seg studies on different properties. One thing nobody mentioned is that you can do a "look-back" study if you've already been depreciating the property using standard methods. You don't have to amend returns - you file Form 3115 (Change in Accounting Method) and take what's called a "catch-up" deduction for the accumulated difference all in one year.
That's super helpful! So if I've owned a commercial building for say 3 years already, I could still do a cost seg study now and catch up on the accelerated depreciation I could have been taking?
Another option that nobody's mentioned: ACH transfers. Most banks offer free ACH transfers to external accounts. Takes 1-3 business days but doesn't cost anything. You just need to link the accounts once by verifying small deposits. I use this for moving larger amounts between my accounts at different banks.
Does ACH have transfer limits too? That's my main issue with Zelle, I keep hitting the daily and monthly caps.
ACH transfers do have limits, but they're typically much higher than Zelle limits. Most banks allow anywhere from $25,000 to $100,000 per day for ACH transfers, and sometimes even more for monthly totals. The exact limits depend on your specific bank and sometimes your account history/standing with them. You can usually find these limits in your online banking settings or by calling customer service directly. ACH is designed for larger transfers, so it's usually better for moving significant amounts compared to person-to-person payment apps.
Just be careful with the timing if you go the friend route! I did this last year with about $8k, and my friend's account got temporarily frozen because Venmo thought it was suspicious activity. It took her 3 days to get it unfrozen, and she was PISSED at me. Maybe do smaller amounts spread out if you go this route.
You might want to look at your pay stubs more carefully. Is it possible those two checks where they took out taxes had something different about them? Maybe you worked overtime those weeks or got a small bonus that pushed you into a withholding threshold? I've seen weird things happen with payroll systems where they only start withholding once you hit certain YTD earnings.
I double-checked all my stubs and there's nothing different about those two checks compared to the others. No overtime, no bonuses, no change in hours or rate. All my checks were between $1190-$1230 gross, and only those random two had any federal withholding. The rest had $0 for federal. That's what makes it so confusing!
That is really strange then. Definitely sounds like a system glitch. One other thing to check - did your employer possibly switch payroll systems or providers around that time? Sometimes during transitions between systems, weird one-off errors happen. Also, you mentioned Married Filing Jointly with 0 exemptions - just to clarify, are you using the newer W-4 form (2020 or later) that doesn't have exemptions anymore, or an older version? Some payroll systems got really buggy during that transition.
I think some ppl are overlooking the most important part - ur gonna owe $$$ at tax time if they haven't been withholding all year!!! My husband had this happen 2 years ago and we got hit with a $3500 bill and a penalty for underwithholding. U need to fill out a new W-4 ASAP and have them take extra out of ur remaining checks this year to catch up!!!
This is important advice. You can ask your employer to withhold a specific additional dollar amount on your remaining paychecks. Figure out roughly how much federal tax you should have paid YTD, subtract what's been withheld so far, and divide by remaining pay periods this year. Put that as an "extra withholding" amount on a new W-4.
I had a similar situation with my 2020 taxes but found out something important - while you can't get a REFUND after the 3-year window, you CAN still file the return! No joke. You should always file even if you miss the refund deadline. Why? Because: 1) If you had self-employment income, filing lets you get Social Security credits even if you can't get the refund 2) Filing stops the clock on potential issues if you actually owed money and didn't know it 3) Having a complete tax record is important for loan applications, immigration, etc. I filed my super late 2018 return last year and while I couldn't get my refund, it cleared up potential problems and completed my tax record.
Thanks for this info! What about if you're pretty certain you're owed a refund but there's a small chance you might owe? Is there any risk to filing after the refund deadline?
If you file after the refund deadline and discover you actually owe money, you will unfortunately still be responsible for that amount PLUS all accumulated penalties and interest since the original due date. The "no penalty for late filing if they owe you" only applies if you're actually due a refund. If there's any chance you might owe, you should calculate your taxes carefully before deciding to file. The penalties for unpaid taxes can be substantial after several years - failure-to-file penalties, failure-to-pay penalties, and interest all compound over time. If you're uncertain, it might be worth consulting with a tax professional before proceeding.
Can someone clarify if the deadline is actually July 15 or April 15 for the 3-year refund window? I thought it was usually 3 years from the April filing deadline, not July?
You're right to question this. For 2020 taxes, the normal filing deadline was extended from April 15 to July 15, 2020 due to COVID. When calculating the 3-year refund statute of limitations, the IRS counts from the actual filing deadline for that particular year. So for 2020 returns, the last day to claim refunds was July 15, 2023 (3 years from the extended July 15, 2020 deadline). For most other tax years, the 3-year window would end in April (3 years from the typical April deadline). Just to be clear for everyone: - 2021 tax refunds: claim by April 15, 2025 (or May 17, 2025 in some cases) - 2022 tax refunds: claim by April 15, 2026 - 2023 tax refunds: claim by April 15, 2027
Oliver Weber
I went through something similar with my dad trying to claim me when I was living with and supported by my grandma. Here's what worked for us: 1) File your taxes properly (either independently or have your boyfriend claim you if he qualifies) 2) Do it EARLY - like as soon as you can in January 3) E-file if possible - paper filing takes forever to process 4) Keep ALL documentation showing your living situation and support My dad tried to claim me but since we had already filed correctly, his return got rejected automatically. When he tried to fight it, we had all our documentation ready. The key thing is filing BEFORE your mom can.
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Miguel Castro
ā¢Thanks for the practical advice! When you say file early, do you mean we should literally try to file on the first day tax season opens? And what kind of documentation ended up being most helpful in your case?
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Oliver Weber
ā¢Yes, I literally mean file as soon as the IRS starts accepting returns (usually late January). My dad always filed late, so by filing first, we put the burden of proof on him instead of us. It made a huge difference. The most helpful documentation was our lease showing my address, bank statements showing my grandma paying for utilities and groceries, medical bills she covered, and a letter from my doctor confirming my disability and living situation. Also super helpful was the documentation showing when my dad stopped being my disability payee - that was like a smoking gun proving he wasn't supporting me.
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Natasha Romanova
One thing nobody's mentioned - if your boyfriend claims you as a dependent, make sure he understands how it affects your healthcare coverage. When my partner claimed me as a dependent, it screwed up my Medicaid eligibility because they suddenly considered his income when determining my benefits. We had to do some serious paperwork to explain that while I was his tax dependent, I was still separate for healthcare purposes. Different states have different rules about this. Double-check with your local Medicaid office before changing anyone's tax filing status.
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NebulaNinja
ā¢This is so important! My brother is disabled and when I claimed him as a dependent, he lost his prescription coverage and we ended up paying WAY more for his medications than we saved on taxes. Definitely check with Medicaid and any other benefits programs before changing tax arrangements.
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