I've been following this thread as someone who's dealt with IRS notices before (though not gambling-related), and I'm really impressed by how supportive and knowledgeable this community is. What strikes me most is how many people have successfully resolved these gambling CP2000 notices without expensive attorneys. It seems like the key is really about proper documentation and clear communication rather than needing specialized legal help. For the original poster - based on all the advice shared here, it sounds like you have exactly what you need with that casino win/loss statement. The pattern I'm seeing from everyone's experiences is: respond promptly, be thorough with documentation, and don't pay anything until it's resolved since you genuinely don't owe taxes on money you never actually won. The resources people have mentioned (taxr.ai for organizing documents, claimyr for actually reaching IRS agents) seem like they could really streamline the process if you want some extra help without going the full attorney route. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences - this thread is going to help so many people who find themselves in this stressful situation!

I just wanted to add my perspective as someone who works in tax preparation - this gambling reporting issue is unfortunately very common, especially with the rise of online casinos and sports betting platforms. The IRS gets these W-2G forms showing individual wins, but they have no visibility into your losses unless you properly document and report them. What I always tell my clients in this situation is that the CP2000 notice is actually the IRS giving you an opportunity to correct the record. They're essentially saying "based on what we know, we think you owe this much - but if we're missing information, please provide it." A few practical tips from what I've seen work consistently: - Your casino win/loss statement is your best friend - make sure it's for the complete tax year - Create a simple summary sheet that clearly shows: Total reported winnings from W-2Gs, Total documented losses from casino records, Net position (hopefully a loss) - Include a brief cover letter explaining that the W-2Gs represent gross winnings, not net gambling income - Send everything certified mail and keep detailed records The good news is that once you provide proper documentation, these cases usually resolve in your favor. The IRS isn't trying to tax money you never actually received - they just need you to show them the complete picture. You've got this!

I went through a very similar house buyout situation during my divorce two years ago, and I want to emphasize something that really helped me avoid complications - make absolutely sure your divorce attorney includes specific language about the tax treatment in your settlement agreement. My attorney initially drafted language that was too vague, just saying I would "transfer my interest in the marital home." When I had a tax professional review it, they caught that this could potentially be interpreted as a regular sale rather than a divorce-related transfer. We added explicit language stating that the transfer was "made incident to the divorce and as part of the division of marital property pursuant to the divorce decree." This specific wording is crucial because it ensures the transfer falls under IRC Section 1041, which makes it a non-taxable event. Without this clear language, you could end up having to prove to the IRS that it was divorce-related, which is much harder after the fact. Also, since you mentioned you moved out 3 months ago, make sure you're still within the ownership and use requirements for the primary residence exclusion if needed. You should be fine since you lived there for 6 years, but it's worth confirming with your tax preparer that the 3-month gap doesn't create any issues. The bottom line is your $122,500 should be completely tax-free, but the devil is in the documentation details. Get it right from the start and you'll save yourself a lot of stress later!

I'm going through a similar situation right now and this thread has been incredibly valuable - thank you everyone for sharing your experiences! Based on everything I've read here, it sounds like Miguel's situation should result in no tax liability, but I wanted to add one more consideration that my CPA mentioned. Since you've done $80,000 in improvements over 6 years, make sure you understand which improvements actually add to your tax basis versus which ones are considered maintenance. My CPA explained that things like the kitchen and bathroom remodel you mentioned typically qualify as capital improvements, but things like repainting, routine repairs, or even some appliance replacements might not. The good news is that even if some of your $80,000 doesn't qualify as basis-increasing improvements, you're still well under the $250,000 primary residence exclusion, so it likely won't affect your tax outcome. But having accurate records will be important for your tax return. Also, I noticed several people mentioned different services for getting professional help - whether it's tax analysis tools, IRS callback services, or professional consultations. In my experience, the small upfront cost of getting professional guidance has been worth it compared to the stress and potential mistakes of trying to figure everything out myself during an already difficult time. Best of luck with your divorce proceedings, Miguel. It sounds like you're asking all the right questions to protect yourself financially!

I'm dealing with this exact same nightmare right now with some old Apple stock from the early 2000s. Reading through all these suggestions has been incredibly helpful - I had no idea about half of these options! One thing I wanted to add that hasn't been mentioned yet: if you remember buying the stock during a specific major market event (like after 9/11, during the 2008 crisis, etc.), that can help narrow down the timeframe significantly. I remembered buying my Apple shares right after the iPod was announced because I thought it would be huge. That gave me a specific date range to work with when looking up historical prices. Also, if you used a financial advisor or planner at any time, they might have copies of old portfolio statements in their files. My old Edward Jones advisor had paper copies of statements going back 15 years that included cost basis information that had been "lost" during the digital transition. The key thing I'm learning is not to give up and accept zero basis too quickly. Between all these different approaches - DTCC records, forensic accountants, cost basis reconstruction services, and even just digging through old emails - there are way more options than I originally thought. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences!

I've been following this thread closely because I'm dealing with almost the identical situation - missing cost basis on some old IBM stock that got transferred through multiple brokers over the years. What strikes me most from reading everyone's experiences is how many different avenues there are to explore before giving up. I wanted to share one additional approach that worked for a colleague of mine: checking with your state's unclaimed property division. Sometimes when brokers merge or go out of business, they're required to turn over certain account records to the state. My colleague found detailed transaction records for some old Enron stock (before it collapsed) that she thought were completely lost. Another thing worth mentioning - if you ever used those old physical stock certificates and then converted them to electronic shares, the transfer agent for the company might have records of the conversion that include your original cost basis. I know it's old school, but some of us older investors still have those certificates tucked away somewhere. The most important takeaway from this thread is that the IRS genuinely understands this is a common problem with older securities, especially after broker mergers. They're not looking to trap people - they just want to see that you made a reasonable effort to determine the correct basis. Document everything you try, and don't let the brokers brush you off too easily. Sometimes you need to escalate to supervisors or compliance departments to get the help you need. Keep fighting for the right answer before accepting zero basis!

I've been dealing with RSU taxation for several years now, and one thing that really helped me was understanding that the IRS treats RSU vesting as a taxable event regardless of whether you sell the shares or not. Your situation looks pretty standard - the $56,150.60 should appear as supplemental wages on your W-2 (often in Box 14 or combined with your regular wages in Box 1). The key is making sure your tax software or preparer knows that this income was already taxed when calculating your capital gains/losses. For future reference, some brokers offer better RSU tax reporting than others. If you're planning to stay with your current employer and continue receiving RSUs, it might be worth asking HR if they can switch to a broker that provides clearer tax documentation. I switched from E*Trade to Schwab a few years ago and the difference in reporting quality was night and day. Also, consider setting aside cash for taxes on future RSU vestings rather than always selling shares to cover. If you believe in your company's stock, you can avoid the immediate sale and potential regret if the stock price goes up later. Just make sure you have enough liquid funds to cover the tax bill!

I've been through this exact RSU mess before! One thing that really helped me was requesting what's called a "supplemental 1099-B" from my broker specifically for RSU transactions. Some brokers will provide this if you ask directly - it shows the correct adjusted cost basis that accounts for the compensation income already reported on your W-2. If your broker won't provide that (sounds like they already said no), you'll need to manually adjust on Form 8949. The key is using code "B" in column (f) and writing something like "RSU - basis adjustment per Pub 525" in column (g). Then adjust the basis to reflect that you've already paid ordinary income tax on the full vesting value. For your 137 remaining shares, definitely keep good records showing your $255.23 per share basis. I use a simple note in my investment tracking that says "RSU vest 8/2024 - basis adjusted for W-2 income" so I don't forget years later when I sell. The most important thing is making sure your total tax burden is correct - you should only pay ordinary income tax once (at vesting) and then capital gains tax later (when you sell) on any appreciation above the vesting price.

Don't forget you'll need to file Form 8606 with your taxes to report the non-deductible Traditional IRA contribution and the conversion! This is super important for tracking your basis and avoiding double taxation. I messed this up the first time I did a backdoor Roth and had a nightmare sorting it out later.

Great question! You're absolutely right that the backdoor Roth can help you get that remaining $2800 into a Roth account. The process is exactly as you described - contribute the $2800 to a Traditional IRA (as a non-deductible contribution since you're over the income limits for deductible contributions), then convert it to Roth. A few key points to keep in mind: 1. **Timing flexibility**: Yes, you can make both your direct Roth contribution ($4200) and your Traditional IRA contribution ($2800) up until the tax filing deadline in April 2026 for the 2025 tax year. The conversion itself can happen anytime and will be reported in the year you actually do it. 2. **Pro-rata rule**: If you have any existing pre-tax money in Traditional, SEP, or SIMPLE IRAs, this will complicate things. The IRS will treat part of your conversion as taxable based on the ratio of pre-tax to after-tax money across all your Traditional IRA accounts. 3. **Documentation**: Make sure to file Form 8606 to properly report the non-deductible Traditional IRA contribution and track your basis. This prevents you from being taxed twice on the same money. The backdoor Roth has become a widely accepted strategy, even though it technically wasn't explicitly designed by Congress. Many people in your situation use this exact approach to maximize their Roth contributions despite the income limits.