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The biggest differences in refunds between people with similar incomes usually comes down to: 1) Withholding differences - how you filled out your W-4 2) Retirement contributions - 401k, IRA, etc. reduce taxable income 3) Health insurance premiums if paid pre-tax 4) Tax credits you might qualify for that your friend doesn't 5) Itemized deductions vs standard deduction 6) Additional income sources like investments or side jobs Check your W-2 box 2 to see how much federal tax was actually withheld from your paychecks last year. Then compare that percentage to your total income. Your friend probably had a lower withholding percentage.
Don't forget student loan interest! That can be a significant deduction for many people making around $65k and can result in very different refund amounts between otherwise similar tax situations.
That's a great point! Student loan interest deductions can reduce taxable income by up to $2,500 in 2024, which could easily account for several hundred dollars in tax differences. Other factors I didn't mention that could cause refund differences include charitable donations if someone itemizes, medical expenses over 7.5% of AGI, and whether someone qualifies for education credits like the Lifetime Learning Credit or American Opportunity Credit.
has anybody ever adjusted their w4 to get more money during the year and then ended up owing a lot at tax time? im scared to change mine because i dont want a surprise bill next year. i usually get about 2k back and use it to pay off holiday debt.
Did you recently file for bankruptcy? If not, that 1099-C with Code A might be wrong. I had a creditor send me a 1099-C with Code A even though my debt was settled through a debt management program, not bankruptcy. Had to call them to get a corrected 1099-C with the right code.
I see this happening a lot actually. The coding on 1099-Cs is often wrong! Another common mistake is using Code B (insolvency) when it should be Code A (bankruptcy) or vice versa. Always double-check these forms because the codes determine how you'll need to complete Form 982.
Yes to your question! If the 1099-C has Code A in Box 6, that means the creditor is reporting the debt was canceled in a bankruptcy. Line 1a on Form 982 corresponds to discharge of debt in a Title 11 case (which means bankruptcy). So check line 1a. As for why they issue the forms at all - it's because the IRS requires creditors to report ALL canceled debt over $600, regardless of whether it's taxable or not. The 1099-C doesn't determine taxability; it just reports the cancellation. You then determine if it's excludable on your tax return using Form 982.
I'm a craft fair vendor and went through this last year. Even if you're below the filing threshold, you might still want to file anyway because: 1) You can establish a history of business losses if you're not profitable yet (useful if you get audited in future years) 2) You might qualify for tax credits that can only be claimed if you file 3) If you ever want a loan or mortgage, lenders want to see tax returns with your business income Also don't forget about sales tax requirements in your state - those are completely separate from income taxes and usually don't have minimum thresholds!
Do you need to keep receipts for absolutely everything? I'm terrible at organizing that stuff and end up with a shoebox full of random papers every year.
Yes, you should keep receipts for everything business-related. The IRS recommends keeping records for at least 3 years after you file. I used to do the shoebox method too but now I just use a simple app that lets me take pictures of receipts. Also started using a separate credit card just for business purchases which makes it way easier at tax time. Digital receipts can be saved in a dedicated email folder - as long as they show the date, amount, and what was purchased, they count as valid documentation.
can someone explain this LLC thing? i thought if you have an LLC you don't pay taxes? my cousin said he has an "s-corp" and doesn't pay self employment tax.
There's a lot of confusion about this. An LLC is just a legal structure, not a tax classification. By default, a single-member LLC is treated as a "disregarded entity" for tax purposes, meaning you still report business income on your personal tax return and pay self-employment tax. Your cousin with an S-corp is doing something different. An S-corporation allows you to be both an owner AND an employee. You pay yourself a reasonable salary (which has payroll taxes) and can take additional money as distributions (which avoid self-employment tax). But S-corps require more formalities like payroll processing, separate tax returns, etc. Usually not worth it until you're making at least $40-50k in profit.
One thing nobody's mentioned is that if your relative decides to file Form 3115, they'll need to calculate the correct depreciation basis from when they FIRST converted the property to rental use, not from today. This means figuring out the lower of: 1) Original purchase price + improvements - land value 2) Fair market value when converted to rental use - land value Then they apply the appropriate depreciation schedule (typically 27.5 years straight-line for residential rental property). I made this mistake when fixing my missed depreciation and had to redo everything. Make sure they get the starting basis right!
What if they don't know what the fair market value was when they started renting it? Is there a way to figure that out after the fact? My property was inherited so I have no idea what it was worth when I started renting it out 8 years ago.
You can establish the fair market value retroactively. One approach is to look at comparable sales in the same neighborhood around that time period. Real estate websites sometimes have historical data, or you could ask a realtor to help with a retroactive market analysis. You could also check property tax assessments from that year, though these are often lower than actual market values. Typically you'd take the assessed value and apply a multiplier based on your county's assessment ratio. Another option is to get a professional retroactive appraisal. Some appraisers specialize in this. It costs money but provides good documentation if you're ever audited.
Quick warning to the OP - I was in almost the exact situation (missed depreciation on a duplex for 7 years). When I filed Form 3115, it triggered a correspondence audit. Not saying it will happen to your relative, but they should be prepared with good records just in case. The audit wasn't terrible, but I had to provide: purchase documents, proof when I converted to rental use, rental income records, and documentation of my depreciation calculations. Everything worked out fine in the end, but it was stressful for a few months.
CosmosCaptain
People repeating "keep your mortgage for the tax deduction" are basically just parroting outdated advice from the 1980s-90s when: 1. Interest rates were WAY higher (remember 12-18% mortgages?) 2. The standard deduction was much lower 3. Tax brackets were different Today's math is totally different. If you're paying 6% interest on a mortgage, you're paying $6,000 per year on every $100k borrowed. Even in the 37% tax bracket (highest possible), you'd save $2,220 in taxes while spending $6,000. That's a guaranteed loss of $3,780! Being mortgage-free is financial freedom. Congrats on paying it off and don't second-guess yourself!
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Freya Johansen
ā¢Does this calculation change if you have other substantial deductions already? Like if I'm already itemizing because of large charitable contributions and state taxes?
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CosmosCaptain
ā¢If you're already itemizing due to other substantial deductions, then the mortgage interest would provide some additional tax benefit, but the math still typically doesn't favor keeping a mortgage just for tax purposes. Let's say you already have $25,000 in itemized deductions from charitable giving and state taxes. Adding $10,000 in mortgage interest would increase your itemized deductions to $35,000, which is $7,300 more than the standard deduction for married filing jointly. At your 24% tax bracket, that additional $7,300 in deductions would save you about $1,752 in taxes. But you're still paying $10,000 in interest to get that $1,752 benefit - a net loss of $8,248. The mortgage is still costing you significantly more than you're saving in taxes.
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Omar Fawzi
I'm an accountant (not giving official tax advice here!) and I cringe every time I hear the "need mortgage for taxes" thing. Let's break it down super simple: Standard deduction for married 2025: $27,700 To itemize, ALL your deductions combined need to exceed this amount Deductions might include: - Mortgage interest - State/local taxes (capped at $10k) - Charitable giving - Medical expenses (only amount > 7.5% of AGI) Most people simply won't exceed $27,700 in combined deductions, making the mortgage interest irrelevant for tax purposes. You're actually financially AHEAD by NOT having a mortgage!
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Chloe Wilson
ā¢This makes so much sense when you explain it that way. My parents have always told me never to pay off the mortgage early because of taxes, but they bought their house in the 70s when everything was different! Thank u for clearing this up!
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Diego Mendoza
ā¢Another accountant here - can confirm this is 100% correct. I see this misconception ALL THE TIME with clients. Being debt-free is almost always better than paying interest for a partial tax deduction. The only exception might be if you're investing the difference at a higher return, but that's a risk/reward discussion, not a tax one.
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