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Have you guys ever tried running the numbers both ways? That's what I did last year. Just entered everything in TurboTax twice - once filing joint and once filing separate. Took an extra hour but I could see exactly which one gave us a better refund. For us, joint was better by about $2,100.
This is actually smart but annoying to do. Does TurboTax charge you for both calculations or just the one you end up filing?
TurboTax only charges you when you actually file, so you can run both scenarios without paying twice. You just need to save two separate files/accounts - one for each filing method. Then compare the results before deciding which one to actually submit and pay for. I found it a bit tedious but worth the peace of mind knowing I was choosing the best option. Just make sure you only file one of them!
One thing nobody mentioned - if either of you has income-based student loan payments, filing separately might save you money overall even if you pay more in taxes! My wife and I file separately because her income-based repayment plan would jump by $400/month if we filed jointly. The tax hit is about $1,800 more, but we save $4,800 on loan payments, so it's worth it for us.
Totally this! My husband and I are in the exact same boat. Our tax guy told us to file separately last year because of my IBR plan. We paid like $1,200 more in taxes but saved over $3,000 in student loan payments. Math doesn't lie!
Don't forget about quarterly estimated tax payments! This was my biggest shock in my first year of business. Since you don't have an employer withholding taxes, you're supposed to make estimated tax payments every quarter. If this is your first year and you're filing late, you might face some penalties for not making those payments. But going forward, try to set aside about 25-30% of your profits for taxes (including self-employment tax which is an extra 15.3%). I learned this the hard way and got hit with a big tax bill plus penalties. Now I just automatically transfer 30% of every sale into a separate savings account for taxes.
Oh no, I had no idea about quarterly payments! So I should have been paying throughout 2024 already? How do I even calculate how much to pay each quarter when my income varies so much month to month?
Yes, you should have been making quarterly payments for 2024, but don't panic too much - first-time business owners often miss this. The payments are due in April, June, September, and January of the following year. For calculating the amount, you have a few options. The safest way is to pay 100% of your previous year's tax liability divided by four (or 110% if your income was over $150,000). Since this is your first year, you can estimate based on your projected annual profit. The IRS Form 1040-ES has worksheets to help you calculate this. If your income varies a lot, you can also use the "annualized income installment method" which lets you pay based on what you actually earned each quarter.
If you're doing your Schedule C for the first time, definitely don't forget about the QBI deduction (Qualified Business Income). As a sole proprietor, you might qualify for a deduction of up to 20% of your net business income! It's on Form 8995. I missed this my first year and later realized I left money on the table. It's one of those newer deductions that a lot of first-time business owners aren't aware of.
The QBI is huge! But doesn't it phase out at certain income levels? I think there are also limitations based on business type.
You're right about the phase-outs, but they start pretty high - around $170,700 for single filers or $341,400 for married filing jointly (for 2024). Since OP mentioned making about $24,000, they should be well under the threshold. There are limitations for certain service businesses like law, medicine, consulting, etc., but a woodworking business making physical products would generally qualify without those restrictions. The basic calculation is straightforward for most small businesses under the income thresholds - typically 20% of your net Schedule C income.
Make sure you look closely at the "examination report" from your audit (usually Form 4549) and compare it with the CP22. Sometimes the examination report shows the additional tax only, while the CP22 includes that PLUS penalties and interest. In my experience, it's usually not that they doubled the actual tax amount, but that they've added failure-to-pay penalties (usually 0.5% per month), accuracy-related penalties (20% of the unpaid tax), and interest (which compounds daily). These additions can significantly increase the total amount due.
Thanks for this advice! I just pulled out my Form 4549 and compared it to the CP22. You're right that there are penalties listed on the CP22 that weren't on the examination report, but they only account for about $1,200 of the difference. There's still $1,550 unaccounted for, which seems to be an additional tax assessment that wasn't in our agreement.
That's concerning. When you and the auditor reached an agreement, you should have signed a form acknowledging the additional tax assessment. Check if you have a copy of this agreement - it's your strongest evidence. With that $1,550 unexplained difference, you should definitely contact the IRS promptly. When you call, ask specifically for the "examination department" and reference your audit case number. They should be able to pull the records and see what was actually agreed upon. Be prepared to fax or mail copies of your documentation showing the original agreed amount.
Make sure you're also checking the tax year on both documents! I once had a similar panic moment until I realized the CP22 was actually addressing BOTH my 2023 and 2024 tax years, while my audit agreement only covered 2024. Easy to miss this detail when you're stressed about the numbers.
One thing nobody's mentioned is that some employers misclassify workers as 1099 contractors when they should legally be W-2 employees. The IRS has specific criteria for determining worker status. If your employer controls when, where, and how you work, provides your equipment, and you're doing core business functions, you might actually be an employee by law. In that case, they're avoiding payroll taxes by classifying you as a contractor.
How risky is it to bring this up with an employer though? I've heard horror stories of people getting fired for questioning their 1099 status.
It can definitely be a delicate conversation. I recommend approaching it from an educational perspective rather than an accusatory one. Share what you've learned about the differences and express your concerns about proper classification. If you're worried about potential backlash, gather information about your specific situation first. The IRS has Form SS-8 that you can file to request a determination of worker status, and they'll evaluate whether you should be classified as an employee or contractor. This gives you official backing if you need to address it with your employer.
Have you calculated how much you'd save in taxes by switching to W-2? For me, the difference was about 7.65% of my income (the employer portion of FICA) minus whatever business deductions I was taking. If your business deductions are minimal, you're almost certainly better off as W-2.
Don't forget that as a W-2 employee, you also get unemployment insurance protection and workers' comp coverage. Those benefits have real value even if they don't show up directly in your paycheck.
Chris Elmeda
Just an important note that people often miss: these inflation adjustments don't just affect tax brackets and standard deductions. They also impact contribution limits for retirement accounts, income thresholds for various credits (like the Child Tax Credit), HSA contribution limits, and a bunch of other things. For example, for 2024, 401(k) contribution limits went up to $23,000 (from $22,500) and IRA contribution limits increased to $7,000 (from $6,500) if you're under 50. So when planning your finances, remember to look at ALL the inflation adjustments, not just the tax brackets!
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Jean Claude
ā¢Do the adjustments also apply to income limits for Roth IRA contributions? I'm right at the cutoff and wondering if I can still contribute for 2024.
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Chris Elmeda
ā¢Yes, the income limits for Roth IRA contributions also increased for 2024. The phase-out range for single filers is now $146,000 to $161,000 (up from $138,000 to $153,000 in 2023). For married filing jointly, it's $230,000 to $240,000 (up from $218,000 to $228,000). So if you were right at the cutoff before, you might now be under the threshold thanks to these adjustments. This is exactly why these inflation adjustments are so important - they prevent "bracket creep" across all aspects of the tax code, not just the income tax brackets themselves.
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Charity Cohan
Does anyone know if the tax filing deadline is still April 15 for the 2024 tax year? With all these changes I'm confused about when we actually need to file.
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Josef Tearle
ā¢Yes, the standard filing deadline for your 2024 taxes (which you'll file in 2025) is still April 15, 2025. The inflation adjustments only affect the tax brackets, deductions, and credits - not the filing deadlines.
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