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I've dealt with these computation notices before. One important thing to note: even if you agree with their assessment, you might qualify for penalty abatement, especially if this is your first notice or you've had a good compliance history. You can specifically request "First Time Penalty Abatement" if you've had no significant issues with the IRS for the past 3 years. This won't reduce the tax amount or interest, but could save you hundreds in penalties. Just call the IRS (or use one of those services mentioned) and specifically ask about penalty abatement options. The worst they can say is no!
Is this something you have to specifically request? I paid a similar notice last year and no one mentioned anything about penalty abatement to me. I had a perfect tax record before that too.
Yes, you absolutely have to specifically request penalty abatement - the IRS will almost never offer it voluntarily! It's not widely advertised, but it's an official IRS administrative waiver. Many people qualify but never know to ask for it. If you paid penalties within the last 2-3 years and had a clean record before that, you might be able to request a retroactive abatement and get those penalties refunded. You'd need to call the IRS and specifically request "First Time Penalty Abatement" for the tax year in question, explaining that you had a good compliance history before that. It's definitely worth trying!
Whatever you do, DON'T ignore this notice!! My brother thought his CP2000 was a mistake and just tossed it aside. Fast forward 6 months and his bank account got levied. The IRS had gone ahead with their computation, added more penalties for non-response, and then took collection action. Even if you need more time to sort it out, make sure you respond before the deadline (usually 30 days) requesting more time. The IRS is actually pretty reasonable if you communicate with them, but they have zero patience for people who ignore their notices.
This is solid advice. I work in a tax office and we see this all the time. People bring in final collection notices for issues that could have been easily resolved months earlier. By that point, options are much more limited and the amounts owed have usually increased significantly.
Former bookkeeper here. Just to add something important: make sure your name on the W-9 EXACTLY matches your name on your Social Security card. If there's any discrepancy (like using a nickname, middle initial vs. full middle name, etc.), it can cause matching problems when the company issues your 1099-NEC next January. Also, don't forget to check the right tax classification box. For a sole proprietor, check the first box "Individual/sole proprietor or single-member LLC" - unless you've actually formed an LLC.
What about if I'm using my maiden name for business but my married name is on my social security card? Will that cause problems?
That's exactly the kind of situation that causes tax matching problems. You should use your legal name (the one on your Social Security card) on the first line of the W-9 form. If you're using your maiden name as a business name, you would put that on the second line "Business name/disregarded entity name." Ideally, you should consider filing for a proper DBA ("doing business as") with your local government if you're consistently using your maiden name for business purposes. This creates a clear paper trail between your legal name and business name.
quick question - do i need to give clients a new w-9 every year? or just once when we start working together? one client is asking for a new one and im not sure if thats normal.
You typically only need to provide a W-9 once unless your information changes (like a new address, name change, or tax ID change). Some companies have policies requiring annual updates just to ensure they have current information, but it's not an IRS requirement. It's not unusual for a client to request an updated form each year - they're just being thorough with their record-keeping. If nothing has changed in your information, you can just complete a new form with the same details.
One thing that really helped me with entering tax data was creating a simple checklist of all my tax documents before I even started. I literally make a spreadsheet with: - Document type (W-2, 1099-INT, 1099-B, etc.) - Who it's from - Amount on the form - Status (entered, pending, questions) This way I can methodically check off each document as I enter it and make notes about any questions. It prevents that panicky feeling of "did I forget something?" when you're about to submit your federal return.
That's smart! Do you just use a regular spreadsheet or is there a template somewhere? Also, how do you handle documents that have multiple numbers on them like investment statements?
I just use a regular Excel or Google Sheets spreadsheet that I created myself. Nothing fancy, just those columns I mentioned. For complex documents like investment statements, I expand my tracking approach. I create sub-rows under the main document listing key figures (dividends, capital gains distributions, etc.) and note the specific form boxes where those numbers should go. Sometimes I even take screenshots of the tax software entry screens and note which box on my document goes to which field in the software. It's a bit more work upfront, but it saves me tons of confusion, especially for documents that have dozens of figures on them.
Has anyone had success using the IRS Free File options? I'm trying to save money but I'm worried the free versions won't handle multiple income sources or that they'll push me to upgrade halfway through...
I used IRS Free File last year with W-2, some freelance income, and a small amount of stocks. It worked fine for me! Just make sure you go through the IRS website (irs.gov/freefile) rather than going directly to the tax company sites. If you go direct, they sometimes don't show the free options.
Make sure you check if you're eligible for any property tax exemptions with the newly built house! Many counties offer homestead exemptions, and some have additional ones for veterans, seniors, or primary residences. This could save you thousands each year. Also, keep all documentation about this situation - the original escrow refund, the tax bills, and receipts of payment. Tax assessments on new construction often get adjusted in the first 2-3 years as counties fully process everything, and having a paper trail will help if there are any disputes.
Thank you for this suggestion! I didn't even think about exemptions. Do I need to apply for these or are they automatic? Our county website is pretty awful and hard to navigate.
You almost always need to apply for exemptions - they're rarely automatic. Most homestead exemptions require an application within the first year or two of occupancy. Your county's tax assessor's office should have the forms, even if their website is terrible. It's worth calling them directly or visiting in person since these exemptions can save you significant money every year. Some counties also have partial exemptions for energy-efficient new construction, so ask about that too if your home has any green features. Don't wait on this - many exemptions have filing deadlines that, if missed, mean you'll have to wait until next tax year.
Don't forget to double check if your property tax bill is paid in arrears in your state! This is super important. In some states, you're paying for the previous year's taxes, while in others you're paying for the current year. If you're in a state that pays in arrears, that bill might actually be for the time period when your house was still under construction, which might explain some of the confusion.
Eve Freeman
I used to be a rideshare driver and made this exact mistake my first year! I thought I had to choose between mileage deduction OR standard deduction and overpaid by thousands. Here's what I learned the hard way: 1. The mileage deduction goes on Schedule C to reduce your business income 2. The standard deduction is totally separate and goes on your 1040 3. You definitely get BOTH! Also make sure you're tracking all your miles correctly. Any driving between passengers counts too (not just when someone's in your car). And don't forget other expenses like a portion of your phone bill, car washes, etc.
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Clarissa Flair
ā¢Wait really? I've been driving for UberEats for 6 months and only counting miles when I have food in the car. So I can count ALL the miles when I'm logged into the app and available for deliveries?
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Eve Freeman
ā¢Yes! Any miles driven while you're actively working (logged into the app and available) count as business miles, even if you don't currently have a passenger or food in the car. The IRS considers this "on the clock" time. The only miles you can't count are your personal trips or your commute to your starting point before logging in. But once you're logged in and working, those "empty" miles between rides or deliveries are absolutely deductible business miles. This is a huge thing many drivers miss! Make sure you're tracking all those miles - it can make a big difference in your tax bill.
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Caden Turner
Is anybody else worried about getting audited? I'm claiming both deductions like everyone says but my taxable income is coming out to like $3,500 on $42,000 in rideshare earnings and I'm kinda freaking out that the IRS is gonna come after me.
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McKenzie Shade
ā¢I was worried about the same thing last year, so I asked my brother-in-law who's an accountant. He said just make sure you have good documentation for your mileage. Like a detailed log with dates and miles. The IRS knows rideshare drivers have high expenses, especially with mileage, so the low taxable income by itself isn't a red flag. Just make sure you can back up your numbers if they ask.
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Caden Turner
ā¢That's a relief to hear! I've been using MileIQ to track all my driving so I should have pretty good records. I guess I was just shocked at how much difference the deductions made. Thanks for the reassurance!
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