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Don't forget that when you take the Standard Deduction, you CANNOT also itemize deductions on the same return. It's either/or, not both. I learned this after trying to claim both my $12,400 standard deduction AND my mortgage interest and charitable donations. Tax software flagged it as an error. You have to pick whichever gives you the bigger tax break. For most people, the Standard Deduction is higher than their itemized deductions would be, which is why like 90% of taxpayers take the Standard Deduction now.
There are some exceptions to this though! Even if you take the standard deduction, you can still deduct things like student loan interest, IRA contributions, self-employment taxes, and health insurance premiums if you're self-employed. These are called "above-the-line" deductions and they work differently.
Absolutely right! Those "above-the-line" deductions reduce your Adjusted Gross Income (AGI) directly and you can claim them regardless of whether you take the Standard Deduction or itemize. This is why tax terminology is so confusing for beginners - there are "deductions" that aren't affected by the Standard Deduction vs. itemizing choice. Thanks for pointing that out!
Honestly I didn't understand the standard deduction until I actually did my taxes for the first time. TaxAct software asked if I wanted to "itemize" and showed me what items would qualify. My donations were like $600, and I had some small work expenses maybe $1000, and the software straight up told me "these don't add up to more than the standard deduction so you should take the standard deduction." Made the decision super easy.
19 Be careful about the pro-rata rule! Everyone keeps saying your backdoor Roth conversion isn't taxable, but that's only completely true if you don't have any other pre-tax IRA money anywhere (Traditional, SEP, or SIMPLE IRAs). If you have other IRA accounts with pre-tax money, the conversion gets taxed proportionally. For example, if you have $95,000 in pre-tax IRA funds and do a $5,000 non-deductible contribution followed by a conversion, about 95% of your conversion would actually be taxable. The IRS looks at all your IRAs together when calculating this (called the pro-rata rule). Form 8606 handles this calculation. This trips up a lot of people and some tax preparers too.
7 This is super important info - I had no idea! If you have existing Traditional IRA money, is there any way to still do a backdoor Roth without triggering this pro-rata rule? I've got about $30k in an old Traditional IRA.
19 Yes, there's a workaround! If your employer's 401(k) plan accepts rollovers from IRAs, you can roll your existing pre-tax IRA funds into your 401(k) before doing the backdoor Roth. Since 401(k)s don't count in the pro-rata calculation, this effectively zeroes out your pre-tax IRA balance. This only works if your 401(k) plan allows for incoming rollovers from IRAs, so you'll need to check with your plan administrator. If this is possible, you could roll the $30k into your 401(k), then do a clean backdoor Roth conversion without pro-rata tax consequences. Timing matters though - you'd need to complete the rollover to the 401(k) before December 31 of the tax year you're doing the conversion.
21 Has anyone successfully gotten the IRS to correct this issue AFTER filing returns where the CPA incorrectly taxed the entire backdoor Roth conversion? I just realized my returns from 2021-2023 all have this same mistake.
4 You can file amended returns (Form 1040-X) for the previous years where this mistake was made. You'll also need to include Form 8606 for each of those years to establish your non-deductible basis. The statute of limitations for amending returns and claiming refunds is generally 3 years from the original filing date, so your 2021-2023 returns should all still be eligible for amendment.
One thing nobody's mentioned - you might want to check if you qualify for the first-time homebuyer exception for early 401k withdrawals. You still have to pay income tax on the withdrawal, but you can avoid the 10% early withdrawal penalty if you used the money for qualifying first-time home purchase expenses (up to a $10,000 lifetime limit). If you're under 59.5 years old and the IRS included that 10% penalty in their calculation, you should definitely dispute that part of the notice by showing documentation that the money went toward your home purchase.
Wait, really? Does that mean I could potentially reduce what I owe? The notice does include something about an early withdrawal penalty. What kind of documentation would I need to prove it was for our home purchase?
Yes, if you're being charged the 10% early withdrawal penalty and you qualify for the first-time homebuyer exception, you could reduce your bill by that amount. For a $40,000 withdrawal (just guessing based on your tax amount), that could be around $4,000 in savings! You'll need documentation showing you used the funds for home purchase expenses within 120 days of the withdrawal. This could include your closing statement, purchase agreement, and records showing the money transfer from your 401k to your bank account and then to the closing. Submit these along with a letter explaining you qualify for the exception under IRC Section 72(t)(2)(F).
I got a huge tax bill for not reporting my Robinhood stocks a couple years ago. The penalty and interest were insane! I called the IRS and asked for a first-time penalty abatement since I had no previous tax issues. They removed over $2,000 in penalties just like that. You should definitely ask about this! The worst they can say is no, but if you've had a clean tax record for the past 3 years, there's a good chance they'll approve it.
This is great advice! I did the same thing when I got hit with penalties for underpayment. Called and politely explained it was my first mistake, and they waived all penalties. They won't offer this unless you specifically ask for "first-time penalty abatement." You'll still owe the taxes and interest, but removing penalties can make a big difference.
Thank you both! I'll definitely ask about this. I've never had any tax issues before, so hopefully I'll qualify. Even if they just remove the penalty portion, that would be a huge help.
To add to the discussion about blank Box 2a values - always check if the "Taxable amount not determined" box is checked on the 1099-R. If it is, the plan administrator is telling you they don't know the taxable portion and you need to calculate it. With distribution code 7, it's generally fully taxable unless there's after-tax contributions (basis). For code 3 (disability), it's typically fully taxable but depends on how benefits were funded. Also, don't forget to check if the "Total distribution" box is checked. This can affect how you report certain distributions, especially for lump-sum distributions that might qualify for special tax treatment.
What's the Form 8606 got to do with all this? I've heard you need to file that form for some retirement distributions but I'm not sure when it's required.
Form 8606 is crucial when dealing with nondeductible IRAs or Roth conversions. You'll need to file Form 8606 if your client made nondeductible contributions to traditional IRAs (to track basis), received distributions from traditional, SEP, or SIMPLE IRAs and has basis in any traditional IRA, or converted amounts from traditional/SEP/SIMPLE IRAs to a Roth IRA. If your client has made nondeductible contributions to traditional IRAs in the past, you'll need Form 8606 to determine the taxable portion of any distribution using the pro-rata rule. Without this form, the IRS might assume the entire distribution is taxable, even if part of it represents a return of already-taxed contributions.
Has anyone used the IRS worksheet for calculating taxable amounts of IRA distributions? I'm looking at Publication 590-B but its kinda confusing me with all the different worksheets.
Pub 590-B has separate worksheets depending on the type of distribution. For regular distributions, use Worksheet 1-1. For Roth distributions, use Worksheet 2-1 to determine if it's qualified. For figuring the taxable part of non-qualified Roth distributions, use Worksheet 2-2. The key is knowing which worksheet applies to your situation.
Dominique Adams
Make sure you check if your school has any tax assistance programs! Many universities have free tax clinics run by accounting students (supervised by faculty) that specialize in helping fellow students with exactly these kinds of problems. I was in a similar situation last year and discovered our business school had a VITA (Volunteer Income Tax Assistance) program that helped me identify additional qualified expenses and properly document everything. They even helped me file an amended return and set up a payment plan with the IRS. Also, don't forget to check if you qualify for any education tax credits like the American Opportunity Credit or Lifetime Learning Credit. These can offset some of the tax liability from your taxable scholarship income.
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Noland Curtis
ā¢I had no idea about university tax assistance programs. I'll definitely look into that! One question though - can I still claim education tax credits if I'm being claimed as a dependent on my dad's taxes? And would those credits go on my return or his?
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Dominique Adams
ā¢If you're claimed as a dependent on your dad's tax return, then HE would claim any education tax credits based on your expenses, not you. The American Opportunity Credit and Lifetime Learning Credit would go on his return, which could help offset some of the family's overall tax burden. Your father should definitely look into claiming these credits since they can be substantial. The American Opportunity Credit can be up to $2,500 per eligible student, with 40% of it potentially refundable. Just make sure he has documentation of your qualified education expenses.
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Marilyn Dixon
Has anyone dealt with this by asking the financial aid office to restructure their aid for the following year? After getting hit with a surprise tax bill my sophomore year, I went to my financial aid office and explained the situation. They were able to adjust how my aid was classified for the next two years - shifting more of it to be explicitly for qualified expenses and less as general living stipends. This didn't help with the tax bill I already had, but it prevented the problem from getting worse in future years.
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Louisa Ramirez
ā¢I work in a university financial aid office, and this is definitely worth trying. Many students don't realize we often have flexibility in how we structure aid packages. We can sometimes designate more of your aid specifically for qualified educational expenses rather than living expenses, which can help with the tax implications.
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