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IRS Transcript Shows Code 570 "Action Pending" with $0.00 Amounts for Credits and EIC - What's Causing My Refund Delay?

I just checked my 2024 tax transcript and noticed something concerning. My account has a 507 code that I've never seen in previous years. Looking at the details, my tax return was filed (code 150) with a processing date of Feb 24, 2025 and shows a cycle number of 20250605. Here's what I'm seeing on my transcript: RETURN DUE DATE OR RETURN RECEIVED DATE (WHICHEVER IS LATER) Apr. 15, 2025 PROCESSING DATE Feb. 24, 2025 TRANSACTIONS CODE EXPLANATION OF TRANSACTION CYCLE DATE AMOUNT 150 Tax return filed 20250605 02-24-2025 $0.00 70211-428-41669-5 806 W-2 or 1099 withholding 04-15-2025 766 Credit to your account 04-15-2025 768 Earned income credit 04-15-2025 570 Additional account action pending 03-03-2025 $0.00 This Product Contains Sensitive Taxpayer Data There's code 570 showing "Additional account action pending" with a date of March 3, 2025. The transcript shows pending W-2/1099 withholding (code 806), credits (code 766), and earned income credit (code 768) all dated for April 16, 2025. Has anyone dealt with these codes before, especially the 570 with pending account action? I'm worried about what this means for my refund timeline since I've got multiple credits pending including EIC. What's strange is all these amounts are showing $0.00 where there should be values. I filed with W-2 withholding and claimed earned income credit, but the transcript isn't showing any dollar amounts for these entries. Is this normal to see all these codes with $0.00 amounts? I'm especially concerned about what the "Additional account action pending" means and why it has a date of March 3, 2025, which is before the April 15 date shown for the credits. My cycle number is 20250605 if that helps with interpreting what's happening. Anyone know what this combination of codes and dates typically indicates for refund processing? Will I still get my refund on time?

Malik Davis

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I'm dealing with almost identical codes right now! Just got my 570 about 10 days ago and was totally panicking about all those $0.00 amounts showing up. Reading through everyone's experiences here is such a relief - I had no idea how common this was with EIC claims. The March 3rd date on your 570 is actually encouraging since we're already past that point. From what I'm gathering from everyone's posts, these income verification holds typically clear within 2-4 weeks, and since you're in cycle 20250605 (weekly processing), you should hopefully see movement soon. Those $0.00 amounts for codes 806, 766, and 768 are just placeholders while they verify everything - I was convinced my withholding had disappeared or something! The April 15th dates are just system defaults, not actual delays. Keep checking your transcript on Mondays when they update. You'll know things are moving when you see a 571 code (hold released) followed by an 846 (refund issued). The waiting is absolutely brutal when you're counting on that money, but it sounds like this is just standard procedure. Hang in there! 🀞

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Just joined this community and wow, this thread is exactly what I needed to find! I've been dealing with the same 570 code situation for about a week now and was completely lost trying to figure out what all these transcript codes meant. Seeing so many people going through the identical thing with EIC claims is actually really reassuring - I thought I was the only one dealing with this mess! The $0.00 amounts had me convinced something went wrong with my filing, but knowing they're just placeholders makes me feel so much better. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences and timelines, it really helps to know we're all in this together! πŸ™

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Zoe Walker

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I'm going through the exact same situation! Got code 570 about a week and a half ago with the March 1st date, and like you, all my amounts are showing $0.00 which had me completely freaking out. I also claimed EIC and have similar withholding patterns on my transcript. After reading through all these comments, it's actually really reassuring to see how common this is with EIC claims - apparently the IRS automatically flags these for income verification to prevent fraud. The $0.00 amounts are just placeholders while they review everything, not an indication that something went wrong with our filings. What's giving me hope is that several people mentioned the 2-4 week timeline for these holds to clear, and since you're already past your March 3rd date, you should hopefully see movement soon. I've been checking my transcript every Monday when they update, looking for that 571 code (hold released) followed by the 846 (refund issued). The weekly processing cycle (20250605) is actually good news since those tend to move faster than monthly cycles. Those April 15th dates on your credits are just system defaults, not actual delays. Hang in there - sounds like we're both just caught up in standard verification procedure that should resolve automatically! 🀞

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Mason Kaczka

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Has anyone actually withdrawn their excess HSA contribution? I called my HSA provider (HealthEquity) about this and they made it sound super complicated. They said I needed to request a "distribution of excess contributions" and that I'd get a special tax form for it. But then I'd need to sort out how much earnings those excess contributions had made?? How do you even calculate that? The whole thing sounds like a headache.

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Sophia Russo

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Yep, I did this with Fidelity HSA. It's actually not that complicated. Your HSA provider calculates the earnings portion for you - you don't have to figure it out yourself. They'll issue you a corrected tax form showing the withdrawal of excess contributions and any earnings. The excess contribution amount isn't taxable (since you already paid tax on it), but the earnings portion is taxable in the year you made the excess contribution. Just make sure you specifically request a "return of excess contributions" not a regular distribution.

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I went through this exact situation two years ago and wanted to share what I learned. First, definitely get that $125 distribution error fixed on your amendment - the IRS can be picky about HSA reporting accuracy. For the $550 excess, I'd strongly recommend calling your HSA provider ASAP to request a return of excess contributions rather than carrying it forward. Even though you've already filed, you likely still have time if you're within the extended deadline (October 15th). Here's why this approach is better: when you carry forward an excess contribution, you'll pay the 6% excise tax ($33) this year, and if you mess up the math on reducing next year's contributions (which is easy to do), you could end up paying the penalty multiple years. I made that mistake and ended up owing penalties for three years before I figured out how to properly "use up" the excess. The return of excess contributions route means you pay tax on any earnings, file one amendment to fix everything, and you're done. Much cleaner. Your HSA provider should be able to calculate the earnings portion automatically - you don't have to figure that out yourself.

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This is really helpful advice! I'm dealing with a similar HSA mess and I'm curious - when you say "if you mess up the math on reducing next year's contributions" - is there a specific calculation or form that helps track this correctly? I'm worried about making the same multi-year mistake you described. Also, did your HSA provider give you any pushback when you requested the return of excess contributions, or was it pretty straightforward once you knew to ask for it specifically?

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This is such a helpful thread! I'm dealing with a similar situation but with a twist - I sold vacant land that I originally received as a gift from my grandmother in 2019. She had owned it since the 1980s. I'm getting confused about the basis calculation. Do I use what my grandmother originally paid back in the 1980s, or do I use the fair market value when she gifted it to me in 2019? The 1099-S shows the sale price but obviously doesn't help with the basis. Also, does the fact that it was a gift change anything about reporting it on Schedule D? I'm seeing conflicting information online about whether gift property gets treated differently for tax purposes. Any guidance would be much appreciated! This thread has already cleared up so much confusion about the "covered" vs "not covered" question.

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Luca Romano

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Great question! Gift property definitely has different rules than inherited property. When you receive property as a gift, you generally take on the donor's original basis (what your grandmother paid in the 1980s) rather than the fair market value at the time of the gift. This is called "carryover basis." However, there's an important exception - if the fair market value when you received the gift was LOWER than your grandmother's original basis, then you'd use the lower fair market value for determining losses (but the original higher basis for gains). It's a bit complex! You'll still report it on Schedule D as a long-term capital gain since you held it for more than a year. The gift aspect doesn't change the reporting location, just how you calculate the basis. I'd definitely recommend getting some professional help or using one of the tax tools others mentioned to make sure you get the basis calculation right, since it can significantly impact your tax liability. Do you happen to know what your grandmother originally paid, or have access to any of her old records?

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Rami Samuels

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This is exactly the kind of situation where having the right documentation makes all the difference! For gift property, you'll definitely need to track down your grandmother's original purchase information if possible - old deeds, closing statements, or even property tax records from the county can help establish her basis. One thing to keep in mind is that if your grandmother made any improvements to the land over the years (like surveys, clearing, utilities, etc.), those costs would also be added to her original basis, which then carries over to you. If you absolutely can't find her original purchase records, you might need to research comparable land sales from that time period in the same area to establish a reasonable estimate of what she paid. County assessor's offices sometimes have historical records that can help with this. The good news is that land values have generally increased significantly since the 1980s, so your grandmother's original basis is probably much lower than the 2019 fair market value, which means you'll use her lower basis (better for you tax-wise when calculating gains). Don't forget that you can also add any improvements YOU made to the property between 2019 and when you sold it to increase your basis further!

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Emma Wilson

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This is really helpful advice about tracking down historical records! I'm dealing with a similar gift situation and hadn't thought about checking the county assessor's office for old records. One thing I'm curious about - if the original basis from the 1980s is significantly lower than current values, wouldn't that actually result in a much larger capital gain and higher taxes? I'm wondering if there are any other strategies to minimize the tax impact when you inherit this kind of "carryover basis" situation. Also, has anyone had experience with the IRS accepting estimated basis amounts when you truly can't find the original purchase documentation? I'm worried about getting audited if I have to make educated guesses about what was paid 40+ years ago.

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Amina Diop

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Am I completely misunderstanding something? I thought Roth contributions were always made with after-tax dollars, so why would lowering your MAGI matter for contribution eligibility? Isn't the whole point that you pay taxes now so you don't pay them later in retirement?

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Oliver Weber

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You're confusing two separate concepts. Yes, Roth contributions are always made with after-tax dollars, but there are income limits on who's ALLOWED to contribute to a Roth IRA at all. For 2025, if you're single and your MAGI is above about $140k, you start to lose eligibility to contribute to a Roth IRA. Above around $155k, you can't contribute directly to a Roth IRA at all. That's why people try to lower their MAGI - not to reduce taxes on the contribution (since as you correctly noted, Roth contributions are always after-tax), but simply to become eligible to make Roth contributions in the first place.

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LongPeri

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Based on everyone's helpful responses here, it sounds like your $4,000 charitable donation alone won't help you get under the Roth IRA income limits unless you have other significant itemized deductions totaling over $14,600. Instead, I'd recommend focusing on "above-the-line" deductions that directly reduce your MAGI regardless of whether you itemize: 1. Max out your 401(k) contributions if your employer offers one ($23,500 limit for 2025) 2. Contribute to an HSA if you're eligible ($4,150 for individual coverage in 2025) 3. Consider a traditional IRA contribution if you're not covered by a workplace plan With your $142k income, you'd only need to reduce your MAGI by about $2,000-3,000 to get comfortably under the phase-out threshold. An HSA contribution alone could get you there while also giving you triple tax benefits (deductible contribution, tax-free growth, tax-free withdrawals for medical expenses). You could still make those charitable donations for the good causes you support, but don't count on them to help with your Roth eligibility unless you're already planning to itemize for other reasons.

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This is really helpful advice! I'm new to this community but dealing with a similar situation. One question about the HSA strategy - do you know if there are any restrictions on when you can open an HSA account during the year? I'm thinking about switching to a high-deductible health plan specifically to take advantage of the HSA tax benefits for getting under the Roth IRA limits, but I'm not sure if there are enrollment period restrictions or if I can make this change mid-year.

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Romeo Quest

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This has been such an informative thread! As someone who's been lurking on this sub for a while but just created my first Patreon last week, I'm realizing I need to get my tax situation sorted out from the beginning. One thing I'm curious about that I haven't seen mentioned yet - what about the fees that Patreon takes? They charge processing fees and their platform fee, so if I technically "earn" $100 but only receive $91 after fees, do I report the $100 or the $91? I'm assuming it's the gross amount before fees, but I wanted to double-check. Also, can those Patreon fees be deducted as business expenses? Seems like they should be since they're a cost of doing business, but I want to make sure I'm thinking about this correctly. Thanks to everyone who's shared their experiences - this community is amazing for helping newcomers navigate all this stuff!

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Ava Rodriguez

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Great question about the Patreon fees! You actually report the net amount you receive ($91 in your example), not the gross amount before platform fees. Patreon should show you both the gross pledges and the net amount after their fees on your creator dashboard. And yes, you're absolutely right that those fees can be deducted as business expenses! Platform fees, payment processing fees, transaction fees - they're all legitimate business expenses since they're necessary costs of receiving payments through the platform. Just make sure to track them properly for your records. This is actually one advantage of platforms like Patreon handling the fee calculation for you - it makes the bookkeeping cleaner than if you had to manually calculate payment processing costs yourself. Your monthly Patreon statements should break down all the fees, which makes it easy to track for tax purposes. You're smart to think about this stuff from the beginning! Getting organized early will save you so much headache later.

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Lydia Bailey

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This thread has been incredibly valuable! As someone who's been doing freelance graphic design for a few years but just started getting into content creation, I had no idea about so many of these tax implications. One thing I wanted to add that might help other creators - if you're doing both freelance work AND content creation (like Patreon, YouTube, etc.), you can actually combine all your self-employment activities on one Schedule C rather than filing separate ones for each income stream. This can be really helpful for maximizing your business expense deductions since you can pool expenses that benefit multiple aspects of your creative business. For example, my computer, software subscriptions, and home office are used for both my client work and my tutorial content, so I can deduct the full amounts rather than trying to split them between different schedules. Just make sure to keep good records showing how expenses relate to your various income sources. The separate business bank account advice is spot on too - I set mine up two years ago and it's made tax time so much less stressful. I even got a business credit card that I use exclusively for creative expenses, which makes tracking even easier since all my deductions show up on one monthly statement. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences, especially about the quarterly estimated taxes - that's definitely something I need to start doing as my content income grows!

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This is such helpful advice about combining multiple self-employment activities on one Schedule C! I'm just starting out but already have income from three different sources - a small Etsy shop, some freelance writing, and now my new Patreon. I was worried I'd need separate forms for everything. The business credit card idea is brilliant too. I've been using my personal card for everything and then trying to remember what was business-related when I look at statements later. Having everything automatically separated would make things so much cleaner. Quick question - when you say you can pool expenses that benefit multiple income streams, does that include things like a portion of your rent for home office space? I work from my apartment and use the same desk/area for all my creative work, but wasn't sure if I could claim home office deduction since I don't have a completely separate room just for business.

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