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Be careful about FBAR requirements too! If your foreign accounts total over $10,000 at any point during the year, you needed to file FBAR reports. The penalties for missing these can be WAY worse than the actual tax penalties. I'm a dual citizen and got hammered with a $50K penalty for "willful" failure to file FBARs for 5 years, even though I didn't owe much in actual taxes. The IRS is extremely aggressive about offshore accounts right now.
Thanks for bringing this up - I definitely had over $10K in those foreign accounts. What documentation did you need to provide for the FBAR filings? And did you go through a tax attorney or handle it yourself?
You'll need account statements showing balances, account numbers, financial institution information, and maximum value during each year. For crypto exchanges, you'll need documentation showing your wallet values and transaction history. I tried handling it myself initially and that was a huge mistake. After receiving the first penalty notice, I hired a tax attorney who specialized in offshore compliance. The attorney was expensive ($350/hour) but worth every penny because they negotiated my penalties down significantly by proving my non-compliance wasn't willful. For your situation with both crypto and traditional foreign accounts, I'd definitely recommend getting professional help rather than trying to navigate it alone.
One important thing to note is that different cryptocurrencies are treated differently for tax purposes. If you've been staking or mining, that's considered income at the time received. If you've just been buying and selling, those are capital gains. And if you've been doing crypto-to-crypto trades, EACH of those is a taxable event! I learned this the hard way after doing hundreds of trades between different coins thinking I only needed to pay taxes when I converted back to USD. Had to pay a CPA $4,500 to sort out the mess.
Which tax software did you end up using for all the crypto-to-crypto transactions? I've been using TurboTax but it seems terrible for handling anything beyond basic crypto.
One thing to remember about the American Opportunity Credit - it can only be claimed for the first 4 years of postsecondary education. If you were in a 5-year program or went to grad school, your parents wouldn't have been eligible to claim it for the extra years beyond your bachelor's. I got confused about this too because my dad claimed it for my undergrad years, but then when I started my master's program, we found out we could only use the Lifetime Learning Credit, which gives you less money back. Worth checking if this might be creating some of the confusion with your forms!
Thanks for mentioning this! My program was 4 years (2019-2023), but that's really good to know about the difference between undergrad and grad programs. Do you know if there's an easy way to tell from the tax forms if they claimed the AOC versus the Lifetime Learning Credit? I'm still a bit confused about how to interpret all these numbers.
You can tell which credit was claimed by looking at Part I of Form 8863. If there are numbers on lines 1-8, that's the American Opportunity Credit section. If there are numbers on lines 9-19, that's the Lifetime Learning Credit section. Some people might claim both credits in the same year if they have multiple students in the family (like one in undergrad and one in grad school). That's why you'll sometimes see numbers in both sections, which can definitely add to the confusion!
If you really want to be 100% sure, ask your parents to create an account on the IRS website and get their tax transcripts for those years. The transcript will show exactly what credits were claimed and for how much. My son and I had a similar confusion, and the tax transcripts cleared everything up instantly.
Getting transcripts online is great advice but not everyone can pass the identity verification process. My parents tried for weeks and couldn't get through it. They ended up having to request them by mail which took forever. Just a heads up that it might not be as quick as it sounds!
This could also be a Recovery Rebate Credit adjustment. Did you claim the recovery rebate on your return? The IRS has been adjusting these if people entered incorrect amounts. Or did you claim unemployment in 2022? There was a partial tax exemption that some tax software didn't calculate correctly initially.
I didn't claim any recovery rebate credit that I know of, and I wasn't on unemployment in 2022. I work full-time and just did a standard tax return with some basic deductions for mortgage interest. The payment came with a notice that has a bunch of codes on it that I don't understand. I'm going to check my online account like someone suggested and see if there's more info there.
If the payment came with a notice that has codes, those codes are the key to understanding what happened. Typically, CP12 notices indicate math error corrections, CP49 might be for overpayment adjustments, and CP21C often relates to changes made to your account. Check your online account at irs.gov as that will likely have more details than what's visible on the physical notice. If you look at the top right of the notice, there should be a notice number (CP followed by some numbers) - that will tell you exactly what type of adjustment this is. Most of these unexpected payments are legitimate adjustments in your favor due to calculation errors or tax law changes.
Has anyone checked if this could be a scam? There are a lot of tax scams where they send fake "refund" checks and then contact you claiming you need to return part of it because it was "too much." Just to be safe, I'd verify this is actually from the IRS before doing anything.
That's actually a good point. A legitimate IRS check will be from the US Treasury, not the "IRS" directly. It should be drawn on the Treasury account. And if you deposit it, wait at least 30 days to make sure it clears properly before spending the money just to be safe.
One thing I haven't seen mentioned is that the timing of your excess contribution removal matters A LOT. Since you caught it and requested the removal early in 2025, you're doing the right thing. But for anyone reading this later - if you don't remove excess contributions before the tax filing deadline (plus extensions) for the contribution year, you'll owe that 6% excise tax FOR EACH YEAR the excess remains in your account!
Thanks for pointing that out! So since I caught it in February 2025 and requested removal right away, does that mean I'm still within the window to avoid the 6% penalty for 2023 contributions? Does the "plus extensions" part mean I actually have until October 2024?
Unfortunately, you're outside the window to avoid the penalty completely. For 2023 contributions, you needed to remove any excess by the tax filing deadline plus extensions - so by October 15, 2024. Since you removed it in February 2025, you'll likely owe the 6% excise tax for 2023. When you amend your 2023 return, you'll need to include Form 5329 to calculate this penalty on the excess amount. The good news is you won't owe this penalty for 2024 since you removed it early in 2025. The earnings portion ($350) will be reported on your 2024 tax return when you receive the 1099-R from Fidelity, and those earnings will be subject to income tax plus a 10% early distribution penalty if you're under 59½.
Something weird I noticed - you mentioned filing Form 5389 but that's not a tax form. Did you mean Form 5329 for Additional Taxes on Qualified Plans? That's the form you need for reporting excess contributions.
Caleb Stark
Can I just point out that your daughter can still be claimed as your dependent even if you can't use Form 8814 for her interest income? These are two separate issues. For dependent status, she does qualify under the student exception if she was a full-time student for 5 months, even if those months were January-May. She'll need to file her own return for the interest income, but you can still claim her as a dependent on your return if she meets the other tests (like you providing more than half her support for the year).
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Mia Alvarez
ā¢That's a really good point I hadn't considered! So even though she has to file her own return for the interest income, I can still claim her as a dependent if she meets the other tests? She definitely meets the support test - she just graduated last May and moved back home, and I'm covering most of her expenses while she's job hunting.
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Caleb Stark
ā¢Exactly! The 5-month student rule applies to dependent status, and since she was a full-time student for at least 5 months during 2024, she can be your dependent if she meets the other tests. The support test is key - if you're providing more than half her total support for the year, you can claim her. Being a dependent will affect how she files her own return though - she'll need to check the box indicating someone else can claim her as a dependent, which affects her standard deduction for her own filing.
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Jade O'Malley
Has anyone actually calculated whether it's better to use Form 8814 even when you can? When I looked into this for my kid's investment income, I realized that putting their income on my return often results in higher overall taxes because it's taxed at my marginal rate instead of their lower rate.
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Hunter Edmunds
ā¢This is a really good point. Last year my son had about $1,800 in dividends from some stocks his grandpa gifted him, and I ran the numbers both ways. It was definitely cheaper for him to file his own return since his tax rate was effectively zero, while adding it to my income pushed some of it into my 22% bracket!
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Jade O'Malley
ā¢Exactly! The convenience of Form 8814 often comes with a stealth tax increase. I found for my daughter's case, we saved nearly $400 by having her file her own return instead of using Form 8814. The kiddie tax rules still apply either way, but there's usually still a benefit to filing separately. The only hassle is the extra paperwork, but for a few hundred dollars in savings, it's worth the 20 minutes it takes to file a simple return for a kid with just interest or dividend income.
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