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One simple way I calculated my work days: look at your paystubs and check the "pay period." Each pay period usually lists the specific dates covered. If you worked during that period, count the number of weekdays (Mon-Fri) in that range, then subtract any days you know you took off. If you worked weekends regularly, make sure to count those too. It doesn't need to be perfect to the day, but try to be reasonably accurate.
But what if you have an irregular schedule? I work retail and my days change every week. Some weeks I work weekends and have weekdays off. Would this method still work?
For irregular retail schedules, you'd want to use a modified approach. Instead of assuming Monday-Friday, check if your paystubs show hours worked per pay period. If they do, divide total hours by your typical shift length to estimate days. Another option is checking work schedules if you have access to them through an employee portal or app. Some retail jobs keep those records for quite a while. Even an estimate based on your typical weekly pattern (like "usually 4 days a week for 30 weeks") is better than nothing. The IRS understands that not everyone has perfect records, especially for part-time or irregular work.
Has anyone used TurboTax for this? I'm filing for the first time too and wondering if it asks for exact days or gives you some kinda calculator to figure it out.
I used TurboTax last year and it does ask for days worked in some situations, especially if you moved between states or worked in multiple states. It doesn't have a built-in calculator, it just has a field where you input the number. I ended up counting days from my calendar where I'd marked my shifts.
Did you recently file for bankruptcy? If not, that 1099-C with Code A might be wrong. I had a creditor send me a 1099-C with Code A even though my debt was settled through a debt management program, not bankruptcy. Had to call them to get a corrected 1099-C with the right code.
I see this happening a lot actually. The coding on 1099-Cs is often wrong! Another common mistake is using Code B (insolvency) when it should be Code A (bankruptcy) or vice versa. Always double-check these forms because the codes determine how you'll need to complete Form 982.
Yes to your question! If the 1099-C has Code A in Box 6, that means the creditor is reporting the debt was canceled in a bankruptcy. Line 1a on Form 982 corresponds to discharge of debt in a Title 11 case (which means bankruptcy). So check line 1a. As for why they issue the forms at all - it's because the IRS requires creditors to report ALL canceled debt over $600, regardless of whether it's taxable or not. The 1099-C doesn't determine taxability; it just reports the cancellation. You then determine if it's excludable on your tax return using Form 982.
People repeating "keep your mortgage for the tax deduction" are basically just parroting outdated advice from the 1980s-90s when: 1. Interest rates were WAY higher (remember 12-18% mortgages?) 2. The standard deduction was much lower 3. Tax brackets were different Today's math is totally different. If you're paying 6% interest on a mortgage, you're paying $6,000 per year on every $100k borrowed. Even in the 37% tax bracket (highest possible), you'd save $2,220 in taxes while spending $6,000. That's a guaranteed loss of $3,780! Being mortgage-free is financial freedom. Congrats on paying it off and don't second-guess yourself!
Does this calculation change if you have other substantial deductions already? Like if I'm already itemizing because of large charitable contributions and state taxes?
If you're already itemizing due to other substantial deductions, then the mortgage interest would provide some additional tax benefit, but the math still typically doesn't favor keeping a mortgage just for tax purposes. Let's say you already have $25,000 in itemized deductions from charitable giving and state taxes. Adding $10,000 in mortgage interest would increase your itemized deductions to $35,000, which is $7,300 more than the standard deduction for married filing jointly. At your 24% tax bracket, that additional $7,300 in deductions would save you about $1,752 in taxes. But you're still paying $10,000 in interest to get that $1,752 benefit - a net loss of $8,248. The mortgage is still costing you significantly more than you're saving in taxes.
I'm an accountant (not giving official tax advice here!) and I cringe every time I hear the "need mortgage for taxes" thing. Let's break it down super simple: Standard deduction for married 2025: $27,700 To itemize, ALL your deductions combined need to exceed this amount Deductions might include: - Mortgage interest - State/local taxes (capped at $10k) - Charitable giving - Medical expenses (only amount > 7.5% of AGI) Most people simply won't exceed $27,700 in combined deductions, making the mortgage interest irrelevant for tax purposes. You're actually financially AHEAD by NOT having a mortgage!
This makes so much sense when you explain it that way. My parents have always told me never to pay off the mortgage early because of taxes, but they bought their house in the 70s when everything was different! Thank u for clearing this up!
Another accountant here - can confirm this is 100% correct. I see this misconception ALL THE TIME with clients. Being debt-free is almost always better than paying interest for a partial tax deduction. The only exception might be if you're investing the difference at a higher return, but that's a risk/reward discussion, not a tax one.
I'm a craft fair vendor and went through this last year. Even if you're below the filing threshold, you might still want to file anyway because: 1) You can establish a history of business losses if you're not profitable yet (useful if you get audited in future years) 2) You might qualify for tax credits that can only be claimed if you file 3) If you ever want a loan or mortgage, lenders want to see tax returns with your business income Also don't forget about sales tax requirements in your state - those are completely separate from income taxes and usually don't have minimum thresholds!
Do you need to keep receipts for absolutely everything? I'm terrible at organizing that stuff and end up with a shoebox full of random papers every year.
Yes, you should keep receipts for everything business-related. The IRS recommends keeping records for at least 3 years after you file. I used to do the shoebox method too but now I just use a simple app that lets me take pictures of receipts. Also started using a separate credit card just for business purchases which makes it way easier at tax time. Digital receipts can be saved in a dedicated email folder - as long as they show the date, amount, and what was purchased, they count as valid documentation.
can someone explain this LLC thing? i thought if you have an LLC you don't pay taxes? my cousin said he has an "s-corp" and doesn't pay self employment tax.
There's a lot of confusion about this. An LLC is just a legal structure, not a tax classification. By default, a single-member LLC is treated as a "disregarded entity" for tax purposes, meaning you still report business income on your personal tax return and pay self-employment tax. Your cousin with an S-corp is doing something different. An S-corporation allows you to be both an owner AND an employee. You pay yourself a reasonable salary (which has payroll taxes) and can take additional money as distributions (which avoid self-employment tax). But S-corps require more formalities like payroll processing, separate tax returns, etc. Usually not worth it until you're making at least $40-50k in profit.
Lydia Santiago
One thing your friend should be careful about - this kind of job can sometimes be a scam. Make sure it's a legitimate company and that the work is actually what they say it is. I've seen "chat operator" jobs that turned out to be romance scams or worse. If it's legit though, she's definitely a self-employed contractor. She should save around 30% of everything she makes for taxes. That'll cover both income tax and self-employment tax in most cases.
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Romeo Quest
β’How would you verify if the company is legitimate? I got offered something similar recently and now I'm worried.
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Lydia Santiago
β’Good question! Here are some ways to verify legitimacy: Research the company name + "scam" or "reviews" online. Check for a professional website with proper contact information, physical address, and company registration details. Be suspicious if they have no online presence or very new websites. Look them up on business registries. For UK companies, you can check Companies House (the UK's official company register). If they claim to be a registered business but don't appear in official records, that's a major red flag.
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Val Rossi
I did customer service chat work for a Canadian company last year, similar to your friend's situation. Make sure she's tracking EVERYTHING. I use a simple Google Sheet with: - Date - Hours worked - Number of messages sent - Payment received - Any work-related expenses Trust me, it makes tax time so much easier! And definitely set aside 25-30% of each payment for taxes. I learned this the hard way and got hit with a big tax bill in April :
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Eve Freeman
β’Did you have to file any special forms because the company was foreign? I'm starting something similar next month.
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