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Another option nobody's mentioned yet is TaxAct. I've used it for the past three years to buy I-bonds with my refund and it works perfectly. Their Premium version is usually around $40-50 for federal (depending on when you file), which is way cheaper than TurboTax. The Form 8888 option appears in the "Refund" section after you've completed your return. You can specify exactly how much you want to allocate to I-bonds and how much to direct deposit. One tip: make sure the name on your tax return EXACTLY matches what you want on the bond. The IRS is super picky about this. If your name is "Robert" but you go by "Bob", use "Robert" on both your return and the bond section.
Does TaxAct force you to enter all those extra details for interest and dividends that the OP was complaining about? I hate when tax software asks for info that isn't actually required on the real forms.
TaxAct does ask for the payer names for interest and dividends, but it doesn't require all the excessive details like addresses and phone numbers. You can just enter the name and amount for each 1099-INT or 1099-DIV. For IRA distributions, you do need to enter each 1099-R separately, but that's actually correct since the distribution codes can be different. It's much less demanding than some of the other software I've tried.
This is exactly why I went back to using an accountant! I tried the DIY route for years and kept running into these exact limitations. Software companies design their products for the most common scenarios and anything slightly unusual gets overlooked. I know paying an accountant seems expensive compared to software, but mine charges $275 and handles everything - including splitting my refund between direct deposit and I-bonds. No frustration, no wasted weekends, and I actually end up with BIGGER refunds because he finds deductions I didn't know about.
Does your accountant e-file for you? I'm wondering if they have access to better tax software than what's available to regular consumers.
Don't forget that some states have different rules too! The federal calculation might come out the same for you filing jointly vs separately, but your state might have different brackets or rules. I'm in California and we found a significant difference at the state level even when federal was a wash. My accountant told me it's really common for high-income dual-earner couples in California to see this.
Is there an easy way to figure out the state difference? I'm in New York and now I'm wondering if I've been leaving money on the table for years.
For New York specifically, the differences can be significant because NY has a pretty progressive tax rate structure. The easiest way is to run the calculations both ways using NY's tax tables, which you can find on the NY Department of Taxation website. The key thing to check is whether you and your spouse would fall into different tax brackets individually versus where your combined income lands. Also, NY has some credits that follow federal rules about filing status, so if you'd lose certain credits federally by filing separately, you might lose the corresponding NY credits too. I usually just run a quick calculation both ways in our state's online tax calculator to see the difference. Takes about 15 minutes but has saved us hundreds some years.
One thing nobody's mentioned yet is the Alternative Minimum Tax (AMT). If you're in a higher income bracket, the AMT can hit couples filing jointly differently than those filing separately. When my wife and I were in a similar income situation (both making around 100k), we actually got hit with AMT when filing jointly but not separately. Has anyone else run into this? Is this still a concern with the current tax laws?
The Tax Cuts and Jobs Act significantly reduced the impact of AMT for many taxpayers by increasing the exemption amounts and phase-out thresholds. But it's still something to consider for higher incomes, especially if you have lots of certain types of deductions or exercise stock options. I got caught by this too, but in reverse - filing separately actually triggered AMT for us when jointly didn't. It's definitely worth running the numbers both ways if you're near those thresholds.
For calculating self-employment taxes, don't forget about the Qualified Business Income deduction (Section 199A)! As a self-employed person, you might qualify for up to a 20% deduction on your qualified business income. This is separate from your regular business expense deductions on Schedule C. Also, if you didn't make estimated tax payments last year, look into the "safe harbor" provisions when you file. If your previous year's tax liability was covered through withholding (from your job before getting laid off), you might qualify for reduced penalties or even avoid them altogether depending on your situation.
Can you explain more about the QBI deduction? I thought that was only for certain types of businesses. Does it apply to all self-employed people regardless of what service they provide?
The QBI deduction applies to most self-employed individuals, sole proprietors, partnerships, and S corporations. There are some limitations if you're in certain "specified service trades or businesses" like health, law, accounting, etc., and if your income is above certain thresholds (around $170,500 for single filers in 2022). For most freelancers making under that threshold, including graphic designers, you'll likely qualify for the full 20% deduction on your business profits. The calculation gets more complex at higher income levels or for certain professions, but tax software usually handles this automatically. It's basically free money that reduces your taxable income (though it doesn't reduce self-employment tax), so definitely don't miss out on it!
has anyone used quickbooks self employed? im in same boat freelancing first time and behind on everything. was told it tracks mileage and expenses automatically + helps w quarterly estimated payments going forward?? not sure if worth $15/mo or whatevr they charge
I think everyone is missing an important point here - you could potentially reclassify this as paying for educational expenses directly! The IRS allows you to pay for qualified education expenses for someone else without it counting toward the gift tax limit if you pay the educational institution directly. Next time, maybe send the money straight to the college instead of the family?
But I already sent the money to the family directly. Is there any way to reclassify it now? And does this educational expense exception work for schools in other countries too? The college is in Malaysia.
Unfortunately, you can't reclassify it after the fact. The money has to be paid directly to the qualified educational institution at the time of payment to qualify for the educational expense exception. For foreign educational institutions, they generally do qualify for this exception as long as they're a legitimate educational organization. The school doesn't have to be in the US for the direct tuition payment exception to apply. But again, the key is that the payment must go straight from you to the school - not through the family first. Keep this in mind for any future assistance you might provide.
Sorry to jump in late, but I work in tax preparation and wanted to add something important: even though you can't deduct this as a charitable contribution, make sure you're tracking all your actual eligible donations for the year! A lot of people don't realize they can only benefit from itemizing deductions if their total deductions exceed the standard deduction ($14,600 for single filers in 2025).
Which tax software do you recommend for keeping track of charitable donations throughout the year? I always scramble at tax time trying to find all my receipts.
Benjamin Kim
Honestly, do the math both ways before deciding. My husband and I were in a similar income bracket last year ($370k combined) and we found filing separately saved us about $3200 because of some weird interaction with our state tax deductions and my business losses. Most tax software lets you calculate both ways to compare. We used H&R Block and it took maybe an extra 30 minutes to run the numbers both ways. Totally worth the time. Also don't forget to consider the SALT cap - the $10k limit on state and local tax deductions hits high earners hard. If you file separately, each spouse gets their own $10k limit, which can be advantageous in high-tax states.
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Samantha Howard
ā¢Wait the SALT cap applies separately?? So if you file separately each person gets their own $10k cap? That's a huge deal in states like CA or NY! Why isn't this more widely known??
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Megan D'Acosta
I'm a little late to this convo but wanted to add - if either of you have any past tax debt, back child support, or defaulted student loans, filing separately might protect the spouse without the debt from having their refund seized. Saw this happen to a friend where her husband owed back taxes and they lost their entire $7k refund when they filed jointly. Also, filing separately gives you some liability protection. If your spouse makes mistakes or omissions on their return, you won't be held responsible if you file separately. Might be worth considering if one of you has a complex tax situation or owns a business.
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LordCommander
ā¢That's good to know! Thankfully we don't have any back taxes or debts, and both have pretty straightforward W-2 income. Really starting to sound like filing jointly is the way to go in our situation. I'm going to run the numbers both ways though just to be sure. Thanks everyone for all the helpful advice! I feel much more confident about our decision now.
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Megan D'Acosta
ā¢You're welcome! Definitely run the numbers both ways - that's really the only way to be sure. Joint filing is usually better for most couples, but the only way to know for your specific situation is to calculate it both ways. Good luck with your taxes! Sounds like you're making an informed decision now.
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