


Ask the community...
Okay so I'm a tax preparer (not giving professional advice here, just general knowledge) and I think I know what's happening with your Form 8606. Line 5 of Form 8606 calculates the "taxable portion" of your conversion using the pro-rata rule. It's based on the percentage of after-tax money to the total of ALL your IRAs. If you had exactly $8600 in your Traditional IRA and $8000 was non-deductible contributions, then approximately 93% of your conversion would be tax-free ($8000/$8600 = 0.93). So of your $8000 contribution, only $7393 (which is roughly 93% of $8000) is considered your basis that converted tax-free this year. The taxable amount of $607 is very close to your $600 of pre-existing money. This actually sounds correct to me. The form works exactly as intended - it's just confusingly worded.
That actually makes a lot more sense now! So if I'm understanding correctly, the $7393 on Form 8606 isn't my actual basis, but rather the portion of my $8000 contribution that's being treated as non-taxable in this specific conversion? And I'm not losing the other portion of my basis?
Exactly! You've got it right. The $8000 is your full non-deductible contribution (your true basis), but because of the pro-rata rule, only 93% of your conversion is considered tax-free this year. You're not losing any basis. Form 8606 is just showing how much of your conversion is tax-free versus taxable for this specific tax year. The form is calculating that approximately $7393 of your distribution is from basis (tax-free) and about $607 is from earnings (taxable).
Just checking - did you make that $8k contribution for 2024? The annual IRA contribution limit for people over 50 is $8,000 for 2024 (the limit was $7,500 for 2023).
The IRA contribution limits for 2024 are indeed $7,000 base + $1,000 catch-up for those 50+, totaling $8,000. This is up from 2023's $6,500 + $1,000 catch-up.
Yes, I made the $8k contribution for 2024! I'm over 50 so I was able to do the full $7k plus the $1k catch-up. I wanted to max it out as I'm trying to catch up on retirement savings.
American taxes are actually not that high compared to other countries, but our system is WAY more complicated. I work in international finance and have friends in multiple countries. Here's what I've observed: - US effective tax rates are generally lower than most European countries - BUT we have more complicated filing requirements (many countries have simple or automatic filing) - Our tax code has tons of exemptions, deductions, credits making it confusing - We don't directly "see" the benefits like healthcare or education that many European countries get - US has more state/local tax variation than many other countries The perception problem is real - taxes feel more painful when the process is complex AND when you don't immediately see what you're getting in return.
Do you think it will ever change? Seems like every administration promises tax simplification and it just gets more complicated.
I'm not optimistic about major simplification happening anytime soon. There are too many special interests benefiting from various parts of the tax code. Every tax break has a constituency fighting to keep it, and politicians use the tax code to deliver benefits to their supporters. Plus, the tax preparation industry actively lobbies against simplification - companies like Intuit (TurboTax) have a financial interest in keeping taxes complicated so people need their services. Other countries have shown it's possible to make taxes simpler, but it would require political will that seems lacking in our current environment.
Has anyone used both the standard deduction and itemized for different tax years? I'm trying to figure out if it's worth keeping track of all my potential deductions or if the standard deduction is just gonna be higher anyway. I make about $75k.
Since the 2017 tax law changes, the standard deduction got much higher ($13,850 for single filers in 2023). Unless you have a mortgage with significant interest, pay high state/local taxes, have major medical expenses, or give a lot to charity, standard deduction is usually better for most people making around $75k. I've done both, and honestly, for my situation ($83k income), the standard deduction has been the better option the last few years. Save yourself the headache of tracking everything unless you know you're close to exceeding the standard deduction threshold.
The real issue with these proposals is the math just doesn't add up. If you look at the 2025 federal budget projections, individual income taxes account for approximately $2.3 trillion in revenue. Eliminating taxes for those under $150k would create a massive budget shortfall. Politicians love floating these ideas but never explain how they'd replace the lost revenue. I've seen proposals ranging from wealth taxes to VAT to increased corporate rates, but none of them fully address the gap. Without solid alternative funding mechanisms, these proposals remain fantasy rather than viable policy.
You can find the official budget projections on the Congressional Budget Office website (cbo.gov) or the White House Office of Management and Budget site (whitehouse.gov/omb). They publish detailed breakdowns of revenue sources and projections. The most recent Economic and Budget Outlook report shows that individual income taxes make up roughly 46% of federal revenue. The data clearly shows that taxpayers earning under $150,000 contribute about 35-40% of total income tax revenue. Removing this would require either massive spending cuts or alternative revenue sources that would likely create different types of tax burdens for the same people who would supposedly benefit.
While we're discussing tax policies, has anyone used H&R Block vs TurboTax this year? I heard TurboTax is better for understanding how potential tax changes might affect you, but H&R Block is cheaper.
I've used both and honestly TurboTax's "what-if" simulator is pretty helpful for playing around with different scenarios including policy changes. You can model how your taxes would change under different proposals. A bit more expensive but worth it if you're trying to plan ahead.
Just want to add something that helped me with my 1099 tax debt - the Taxpayer Advocate Service. They're an independent organization within the IRS that helps taxpayers resolve problems. I was in a similar situation with about $35k in tax debt from 1099 work, and they helped me navigate my options. The service is free, but you need to demonstrate that you're facing significant hardship. In my case, I was able to show that the minimum payments were preventing me from covering basic living expenses. They helped me get into a more reasonable payment plan and even got some penalties removed.
This sounds promising! How long did the process take when you used the Taxpayer Advocate Service? And did you need to provide a lot of financial documentation?
The whole process took about 2 months from my initial contact to getting a revised payment plan. They do require quite a bit of documentation - I had to provide bank statements, pay stubs, a detailed list of monthly expenses, and proof of my housing costs and medical expenses. They assigned me a specific advocate who worked directly with me throughout the process. The most helpful part was having someone who could explain the various relief options in plain English and who actually seemed to care about finding a solution that worked for my specific situation. Much better than trying to navigate the general IRS channels where you rarely speak to the same person twice.
Don't overlook self-employment tax deductions! I was in a 1099 mess too, and the thing that helped most was properly tracking business expenses. Are you deducting: - Home office (if you have dedicated space) - Health insurance premiums - Cell phone/internet (business portion) - Mileage for business travel - Retirement contributions (SEP IRA or Solo 401k) - Business software subscriptions These can significantly reduce your taxable income. I started a SEP IRA and was able to contribute about 20% of my net earnings, which saved thousands in taxes each year.
This! I switched from doing a Schedule C to forming an S-Corp after my 1099 income hit about $80k, and it saved me a ton on self-employment taxes. You still pay yourself a reasonable salary that gets employment taxes, but can take the rest as distributions that aren't subject to SE tax. Might be worth looking into if your 1099 income is substantial.
Yuki Watanabe
Don't forget you might qualify for bonus depreciation or Section 179 expensing for certain components of your renovation! Things like appliances, carpet, furniture in common areas, etc. can often be written off much faster than the building structure itself. I'd strongly recommend getting a cost segregation study done once you complete the purchase and renovations. It'll cost a few thousand upfront but could save you tens of thousands in taxes over the first few years.
0 coins
Carmen Sanchez
ā¢Is cost segregation worth it for smaller properties? My commercial building was only about $700k with $150k in renovations. I've heard mixed things about whether the expense of the study is justified at this price point.
0 coins
Yuki Watanabe
ā¢It really depends on the type of property and renovations. As a general rule, I've found cost segregation becomes financially worthwhile for properties above $500k in value, especially those with significant interior components or specialized systems. For your specific situation with a $700k property and $150k renovations, I'd say it's right on the borderline. If your renovations included significant amounts of new interior components (lighting systems, specialized electrical, custom cabinetry, etc.), it would likely be worth it. The study might cost $4,000-7,000, but could potentially reclassify $200k+ of your basis into 5, 7, or 15-year property instead of 39-year, which accelerates your tax savings dramatically.
0 coins
Andre Dupont
Quick tip: make sure you're keeping EXTREMELY detailed records of all your renovation costs, with clear categorization of what each expense was for. I got audited on a similar deal and the IRS wanted documentation for every single expense I claimed. Take photos before, during and after renovations too! Trust me, this documentation is worth its weight in gold if you ever get questioned about your depreciation calculations.
0 coins
Zoe Papadakis
ā¢What kind of categorization do you recommend? Like how detailed should it be? I usually just have my contractor give me invoices that say "Kitchen renovation" or "Bathroom remodel" but I'm guessing that's not enough?
0 coins