IRS

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Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

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Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Skylar Neal

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If you decide to use tax software instead of a CPA, make sure you compare a few different options. I found TurboTax charges extra for investment forms, while FreeTaxUSA handled our investments and my wife's scholarship with their basic version. Saved us like $70 compared to what TurboTax wanted to charge.

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PrinceJoe

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Thanks for the tip about FreeTaxUSA! Did it handle the scholarship question well? That's my biggest concern - making sure we properly categorize what's taxable vs. non-taxable.

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Skylar Neal

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FreeTaxUSA handled the scholarship situation really well. It specifically asks whether scholarship money was used for qualified expenses (tuition, books, required fees) versus non-qualified expenses (room and board, living expenses). It also provided clear explanations about which portions of scholarships are taxable and which aren't, something TurboTax didn't explain as clearly in my experience. The program walks you through it step by step and even has a help section specifically addressing graduate student scholarships and fellowships.

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I'm a tax preparer (not CPA) and honestly for your situation, good tax software should be fine. The only reason I'd suggest a pro is if either of you has self-employment income, rental property, or complicated investments beyond normal stocks/ETFs. Marriage doesn't change the tax treatment of investments or scholarships, it just combines them on one return.

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Kelsey Chin

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What about tax credits that weren't available before? I heard the income thresholds change when filing jointly and you might qualify for different credits?

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Something else to consider - are you sure you're using the correct mileage rate? The IRS increased it mid-year in 2022, and it went up again for 2023. Make sure you're using the right one for your calculations. Also, don't forget that you can choose between taking the standard mileage deduction OR deducting actual expenses (gas, maintenance, insurance, depreciation, etc.). You should calculate both ways to see which gives you the better deduction. Just remember once you choose actual expenses for a vehicle, you can't switch to standard mileage later for that vehicle.

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Carmen Ruiz

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I'm using the 65.5 cents per mile rate for 2023, which I think is current. As for the standard vs. actual expenses, I was under the impression that for the first year I use the vehicle for business, I can choose either method, and then in subsequent years I'm locked in if I chose actual expenses first. Is that right?

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You've got the current rate correct at 65.5 cents for 2023. And yes, you've got the rule right too - you can choose either method the first year you use the vehicle for business. If you choose standard mileage that first year, you can switch back and forth in future years. But if you choose actual expenses the first year, you're locked into that method for the life of that vehicle in your business. For a new business with lower income but high mileage, the standard mileage rate is often the better choice. It's also much simpler for record-keeping. Just make sure your mileage log is detailed and consistent!

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Have you considered adjusting your business model to reduce driving? When I started my house cleaning business, I had similar issues - tons of miles but not much income. I started focusing on getting multiple clients in the same neighborhoods/areas and scheduling them on the same days. Cut my mileage by almost 40% while increasing my income. For lawn care, maybe you could offer discounts to neighbors of existing clients? Or charge a bit more for outlying areas to offset the driving costs?

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Dylan Wright

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This is great advice. I work in landscaping and we use zone pricing - we charge more for areas farther from our base. We also give "neighbor discounts" if we can service multiple properties in one area. It's been super effective at both bringing in more clients and reducing drive time.

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Yara Haddad

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13 One thing to consider with Section 179 vehicles - make sure you're genuinely using it primarily for business. I had a client who got audited and lost most of their deduction because they couldn't substantiate their claimed 80% business use. Keep detailed mileage logs showing business vs personal trips. The IRS looks very closely at vehicle deductions, especially for expensive SUVs.

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Yara Haddad

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7 What's the best way to track mileage? Is there an app you recommend or is the old-fashioned paper log still better?

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Yara Haddad

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13 I recommend a digital solution over paper logs. Apps like MileIQ, Everlance, or TripLog automatically track your trips using GPS and let you classify them as business or personal with a simple swipe. The most important thing is consistency. The IRS wants to see regular tracking, not estimates or reconstructed logs created after the fact. Even with an app, take a moment each day or week to classify your trips while they're fresh in your mind. Also document the business purpose for trips - just having the mileage isn't enough if you get audited.

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Yara Haddad

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3 Does anyone know if leasing might be better than buying for Section 179 purposes? I've heard mixed things about whether the full lease payment is deductible vs. complicated depreciation schedules.

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Yara Haddad

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15 Leasing can be simpler for taxes since you generally deduct the actual lease payments as a business expense based on your business use percentage. No Section 179 or depreciation calculations to worry about. But leasing usually costs more over time than buying. If you buy using Section 179, you get a bigger deduction upfront, which sounds like what you're looking for to reduce this year's tax bill. The trade-off is smaller deductions in future years.

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Gabriel Ruiz

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Wanted to add another option - the Taxpayer Advocate Service might be able to help with this for free. They helped me resolve an issue with incorrectly reported disability income last year. You can find your local office here: https://www.taxpayeradvocate.irs.gov/contact-us/ The key thing they told me was to look at Box 12 on your W-2. There should be a code J if you contributed to the disability plan with after-tax dollars. If that's missing but you did pay with after-tax money, that's part of your documentation to dispute the taxability.

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Thanks for this suggestion! I checked my W-2 and there's no code J in Box 12, which does suggest they're not accounting for my after-tax contributions. The Taxpayer Advocate Service sounds like a good next step. Did you need to provide specific documentation when you worked with them? And roughly how long did the process take to resolve?

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Gabriel Ruiz

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I needed to provide whatever proof I had of my premium payments - in my case I had some old paystubs showing the deductions were taken after taxes. I also had an old benefits enrollment form showing I elected the coverage and was paying 100% of the premium. The process took about 3 months from my first contact with them until resolution. They assigned me a specific advocate who handled everything, including contacting the insurance company directly. The big advantage was having someone who knew exactly what documentation was required and what tax laws applied. Much easier than trying to navigate it myself.

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As someone who's been through this exact situation, I want to warn you - don't just assume the insurance company is reporting correctly. My disability insurer reported my benefits as fully taxable for 3 years before I caught the error. Had to file amended returns for all three years. The definitive test: If YOU paid the premiums with after-tax money, the benefits are NOT taxable. If your EMPLOYER paid OR if you paid with pre-tax money (like through a section 125 cafeteria plan), then the benefits ARE taxable. Something else to try: Check your last pay stubs before you went on disability. If the disability premium was deducted AFTER taxes were calculated, that's evidence you paid with after-tax dollars.

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Is there a way to tell from the w2 itself? My insurance company says they just report what the employer told them and can't change it without employer verification, but my employer is also out of business.

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Make sure you're not confusing 1099-NECs with 1099-MISCs. They split the forms a few years back and now you need to use the 1099-NEC ("Non-Employee Compensation") for freelancers. The MISC form is for other types of payments. I made that mistake my first year with contractors and had to resubmit everything.

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Thanks for pointing that out! I didn't know they were different forms now. Is there a penalty if you use the wrong form? Also, do you know if there's a minimum payment threshold before I need to file the 1099-NEC?

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Yes, using the wrong form can cause issues and potentially delay your contractors from filing their taxes correctly. The IRS might flag the inconsistency which could trigger correspondence or even an audit in some cases. The threshold for filing a 1099-NEC is $600 in payments to a US contractor during the tax year. If you paid someone less than that, you don't need to file a 1099 for them, though you can still deduct the expense on your Schedule C.

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Zane Gray

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Don't forget about state filing requirements! Even if you get the federal 1099-NECs sorted out, many states require you to file copies with them too. In Georgia, you'll need to submit copies of any 1099s you file to the Department of Revenue. The deadline usually matches the federal one.

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Is this true for every state? I'm in Texas and I've never had to file 1099s with the state.

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