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Oscar O'Neil

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For what it's worth, I went through something similar with my engineering capstone. The key questions that determined deductibility in my case were: 1. Was the project ABSOLUTELY required for graduation? (Yes) 2. Did the school offer ANY alternative that would cost less? (No) 3. Was there clear documentation from the school stating these requirements? (Yes) 4. Did the final project have substantial value beyond demonstrating my academic skills? (No) I ended up claiming about 75% of my expenses as qualified education expenses on Form 8863 for the American Opportunity Credit. I kept all my receipts plus the course syllabus and degree requirements that proved this was mandatory. I've been through 2 tax seasons since then with no issues from the IRS. Just my personal experience!

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Thanks for sharing your experience! Could you clarify which specific tax form or schedule you used to list these expenses? And did you have to itemize deductions or was this handled differently?

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Oscar O'Neil

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I used Form 8863 (Education Credits) and claimed the expenses as part of my qualified education expenses for the American Opportunity Credit. The great thing is you don't need to itemize deductions to claim education credits - they're available even if you take the standard deduction. The form has a line specifically for required course materials, which is where these project expenses can fit. Just make sure you have documentation that clearly shows the project was required for your degree program!

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Important question: What year are you talking about? The rules changed after tax year 2023 on certain education deductions. the Tuition and Fees deduction isn't available anymore and has been replaced with expanded credits. Make sure ur looking at current rules!!

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This is critical advice! I got audited because I used outdated tax advice from a blog post. Always check that you're looking at the most current IRS publications. For education expenses, Publication 970 is the bible - they update it every year.

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Haley Bennett

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18 One thing no one has mentioned yet - if you're looking to minimize penalties, you might want to consider applying excess contributions to a future year if possible. I did this for one of my excess contribution years and it saved me from having to withdraw anything.

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Haley Bennett

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2 Can you explain how that works? I thought you couldn't "carry forward" Roth contributions like that?

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Haley Bennett

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18 You're right that you can't exactly "carry forward" Roth contributions in the traditional sense, but if you're eligible to contribute in the current year, you can apply excess contributions from a prior year to the current year instead of withdrawing them. For example, if you made an excess contribution in 2021, and you're eligible to contribute to a Roth in 2023 but haven't maxed it out yet, you can apply some or all of that 2021 excess amount toward your 2023 contribution limit. You'd still owe the 6% penalty for 2021 and 2022 (if you didn't fix it before the 2022 deadline), but you'd avoid the penalty for 2023 and beyond without having to withdraw funds.

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Haley Bennett

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10 Does anyone know if there's a statute of limitations on fixing these excess contributions? I discovered I had the same issue but going back to 2019-2020.

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Haley Bennett

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6 I believe the 6% penalty continues indefinitely until you fix the excess contribution, but I'm not sure if there's a point where the IRS won't let you fix it anymore.

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Grant Vikers

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Another option might be to check with your shipping carrier. FedEx and UPS both have trade advisors who can help with HS code classification. I ship wooden music boxes (some with electronic components) and FedEx's international trade advisor helped me classify them properly. Might save you some time if you're already using one of the major carriers!

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Do the carriers provide this service for free? And are their classifications considered "official" enough that customs won't question them? I ship through USPS mostly, but I'd switch carriers if it meant getting reliable HS code help.

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Grant Vikers

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The major carriers typically provide basic classification assistance for free if you're a regular customer shipping internationally. While their guidance isn't a formal binding ruling, it's generally reliable since they have a vested interest in ensuring smooth customs clearance. The classifications they provide are based on the official Harmonized Tariff Schedule. USPS unfortunately offers less support in this area compared to FedEx, UPS, or DHL. If you're shipping high volume or high-value items internationally, it might be worth considering a switch. Alternatively, you could use USPS for domestic and smaller carriers for international if that makes financial sense for your business.

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For wooden keyboard cases, I've had success using HS code 4421.99.94 for shipments to Europe and 4421.91.9060 for Canada. The key is to document that wood is the material of essential character (over 50% by value). I started a spreadsheet tracking which codes work best for different countries - customs requirements can vary slightly even though HS codes are supposed to be harmonized.

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That's super helpful! Did you run into any issues with duty rates varying between countries even with the same HS code? I'm trying to figure out if I should adjust my prices for international customers based on their location.

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Former employer misclassified me & botched my taxes for years - now that I've quit, what are my options?

My former employer royally screwed up my taxes over several years and I'm trying to figure out what to do now that I've left. Initially, they misclassified me as a 1099 contractor for about 2.5 years, even though I was clearly an employee (set hours, using company equipment, same workspace daily, etc). After pushing back repeatedly, they finally switched me to W2 status. But even after becoming a W2 employee, the problems continued. My boss underreported my salary and didn't withhold enough taxes last year. There's a clear $2000 discrepancy between what my W2 shows I earned (minus withholdings) versus what I actually took home. For whatever reason, she never used actual payroll software - I was paid with personal checks each week. I've saved most of these checks (thankfully mobile deposit lets you keep images) and have bank records for the few I deposited in person. When I filed my taxes, I was hit with a federal tax bill of nearly $2000! She didn't withhold ANY state taxes either, so I already had to write the state a check for around $650. To make things worse, she actually decreased my pay at the beginning of this year citing a "tax error." I found a new job and quit in March, but I'm positive the first quarter of 2024 will be another tax disaster. During those 1099 years, I ended up owing the government around $13K in taxes because of the misclassification. I didn't report her then because I was afraid of retaliation. Here's my dilemma: I still work in this industry which is pretty small and tight-knit. I have a family lawyer but haven't contacted him yet. Should I just let this go or report her? How would I even report this? Would she know it was me? Would they audit just my situation or all her employees? I filed with an extension this year and my return still isn't showing up on the IRS website - could she already be under audit? Any advice would be appreciated!

Anna Stewart

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One thing nobody has mentioned yet - you should also consider filing with your state's Department of Labor about the misclassification. The IRS handles the federal tax issues, but your state labor department can help recover other benefits you might have missed out on due to being misclassified. I had almost the exact situation (1099 then W2 with issues) and filing with my state's labor board got me back wages for unpaid overtime, missed meal breaks, and even some unpaid PTO that I should have accrued as an employee. Plus they investigated the company's practices with other employees too.

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Layla Sanders

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Wouldn't this definitely cause problems with OP staying in the industry though? The DOL investigation would name them specifically right? Unlike the IRS where there's at least some level of confidentiality?

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Anna Stewart

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You're right that there's less anonymity with a state labor board complaint. They typically inform the employer who filed the complaint during the investigation process. That said, there are strong anti-retaliation laws that make it illegal for your former employer to badmouth you in the industry or interfere with future employment. Whether this causes industry problems really depends on your specific situation - how vindictive your former employer might be, how large the industry is in your area, and how much power they have within it. It's definitely something to weigh carefully based on your individual circumstances and tolerance for potential conflict.

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Ok so I've worked as a bookkeeper and seen this from the other side. Sometimes business owners genuinely don't understand proper classification and tax withholding (not excusing it, just saying). Before you go nuclear with reporting, have you tried having a direct conversation with your former boss about the discrepancies? I've seen situations where a direct, professional conversation with documentation showing the errors led to the employer fixing the W2s and even reimbursing the employee for the extra taxes they paid. Might be worth a shot before investing time in formal reports and potential industry drama.

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Daniel Rogers

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I did try talking to her about it while I was still working there. She blamed her accountant for all the mistakes but never actually fixed anything. When I brought it up again after getting my W2 and seeing all the problems, she got defensive and basically said her books were correct and I must be mistaken. That's when she cut my pay citing "tax errors" that needed to be "corrected" going forward. I've been hesitant to reach out again since quitting because our last conversations were pretty tense. But maybe a formal letter outlining the issues with copies of the checks would be worth trying before filing anything official?

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A formal letter is definitely worth trying. Make it professional, not accusatory, and focus on the factual discrepancies with your documentation attached. Suggest that you're hoping to resolve this directly before having to involve tax authorities. Send it certified mail so you have proof she received it. Give a reasonable timeframe for response (like 14 days). This approach gives her one last chance to correct things, and if she doesn't respond, you've created additional documentation of your good-faith efforts to resolve the situation before filing official complaints. That paper trail of attempting resolution can be beneficial if you do need to escalate things.

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Yuki Yamamoto

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Don't forget about state taxes too! The IRS garnishment might be federal, but if you haven't filed federal returns, chances are you haven't filed state returns either. States can be even more aggressive with collections sometimes. Make sure you address both when getting caught up, or you might fix the federal issue only to have the state start garnishing next. Some states have different lookback periods for refunds too, so you might be able to claim refunds from years that are too old for federal.

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Zara Malik

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That's a really good point I hadn't considered. I'm in Texas so I don't have state income tax, but I did live in California for part of 2020 before moving. Does that mean I need to file a partial year California return for that period?

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Yuki Yamamoto

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Yes, you would need to file a part-year resident California return for 2020. California is particularly aggressive with non-filers and has a longer statute of limitations than the IRS for certain things. Since you sold property during that period, California will be especially interested in whether any capital gains tax is due to them. When you file as a part-year resident, you'll only pay California tax on income earned while living there, plus any California-source income (like rental income from California property) earned after you moved. Given the housing market in 2020, there might be significant tax implications depending on how long you owned the California property.

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Carmen Ruiz

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Has anyone used TurboTax to file back taxes? I'm in a similar situation (3 years unfiled) but don't know if I should use software or find a professional.

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You can use TurboTax for prior years, but you'll need to buy the desktop software for each specific tax year you need to file - the online version only works for current year. And if your situation includes property sales or complex investments, you'll definitely need the premium versions.

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