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Has anyone used TurboTax for reporting with HIFO? I've got about 50 transactions across Coinbase and Kraken, and I'm wondering if it's worth paying for their premium version or if I should use something else entirely.
Another important consideration with HIFO is that it can create some unexpected complications if you're planning to hold crypto long-term. Since you're always selling your highest-cost basis coins first, you might inadvertently be selling newer purchases that haven't reached the one-year holding period for long-term capital gains treatment. This means you could end up with more short-term gains (taxed as ordinary income) instead of long-term gains (lower tax rates). Also, if you ever need to demonstrate a clear investment strategy to the IRS, constantly cherry-picking the highest cost basis assets might look like you're purely focused on tax avoidance rather than following a consistent investment approach. The IRS prefers methods that reflect actual investment decisions rather than purely tax-motivated choices. For your 50 transactions, make sure whatever software you use can generate the detailed Form 8949 that shows each specific transaction with dates and cost basis - the IRS will want to see this level of detail if they ever audit your crypto reporting.
I went through this exact same nightmare situation two years ago! The confusion between what you select during EIN application vs. actual S-Corp election is SO common. Here's what I learned: Just checking "S-Corp" on your EIN application does NOT automatically elect S-Corp status. You need to file Form 2553 separately within 75 days of formation (or by March 15th of the following year) to actually make the election stick. In my case, I thought I had elected S-Corp status but never filed the 2553. I was technically still a disregarded entity the whole time, which meant no back filing requirements for my dormant LLC. The easiest way to know for sure is to call the IRS at 800-829-4933 with your EIN and ask them directly what elections they have on file. If they don't show an S-Corp election, you're likely still a disregarded entity and don't need to worry about those 1120-S filings or penalties. Don't panic until you confirm your actual status - you might be stressing over nothing!
This is exactly the clarity I needed! I've been losing sleep over this for weeks thinking I was racking up thousands in penalties. The distinction between checking a box during EIN application vs. actually filing Form 2553 makes so much sense now. I'm pretty sure I never filed the 2553 form because I would have remembered that paperwork. Going to call the IRS number you provided first thing Monday morning to confirm my status. Thank you for breaking this down so clearly - wish I had found this information sooner!
Just wanted to add another data point to this discussion - I was in a very similar situation last year with my single-member LLC. Like many others have mentioned, the key distinction is between selecting "S-Corp" during your EIN application versus actually filing Form 2553 to make the election official. In my case, I had checked the S-Corp box when applying for my EIN but completely forgot about the separate Form 2553 requirement. I spent months worrying about potential penalties until I finally called the IRS Business line. Turns out I was still classified as a disregarded entity since no Form 2553 was ever filed. One thing I'd add to the great advice already given - if you do discover you properly elected S-Corp status and need to file back returns, consider working with a tax professional who specializes in S-Corp compliance. The penalty abatement process can be tricky to navigate on your own, especially when you're dealing with multiple years of missed filings. Also, for future reference, if you ever do want to make an S-Corp election, set a calendar reminder for the Form 2553 deadline - it's easy to miss that 75-day window after formation.
Don't forget about the backdoor Roth option if your income is permanently above the threshold! I've been doing this for years: 1) Contribute to Traditional IRA (non-deductible) 2) Convert to Roth shortly after 3) File Form 8606 with your taxes Just be aware of the pro-rata rule if you have existing pre-tax money in any Traditional IRAs.
The pro-rata rule is what gets everyone confused. Can you explain that part more? I have an old 401k that I rolled into a traditional IRA years ago, does that mess up the backdoor strategy?
Yes, unfortunately that old 401k rollover will complicate the backdoor Roth strategy. The pro-rata rule means the IRS looks at ALL your traditional IRA balances (across all accounts) when you do a Roth conversion. So if you have $50,000 in pre-tax money from your old 401k rollover and contribute $7,000 in new non-deductible money, when you convert that $7,000 to Roth, the IRS considers it to be proportionally made up of both pre-tax and after-tax dollars. You'd owe taxes on most of that conversion. One workaround is to roll that old traditional IRA back into your current employer's 401k (if they allow it), which removes it from the pro-rata calculation. Then you can do clean backdoor Roth conversions going forward.
Breathe! You're definitely not going to jail over this - it's actually a pretty common situation that the IRS has clear procedures for handling. First, figure out exactly how much over the income limit you are. If you're just slightly over, you might be in the phase-out range where you can still make a partial contribution. The 2024 Roth IRA phase-out for single filers starts at $138,000 and ends at $153,000 (for married filing jointly it's $228,000-$240,000). If you're completely over the limit, you have until your tax filing deadline (including extensions) to either: 1. Withdraw the excess contribution plus any earnings attributed to it, OR 2. Recharacterize it as a non-deductible traditional IRA contribution Option 2 is usually cleaner since you don't have to calculate and withdraw specific earnings. Many people then do a backdoor Roth conversion immediately after recharacterizing. Contact your IRA custodian ASAP to discuss your options. They deal with this all the time and can walk you through the process. You've got time to fix this without penalties!
This is such a helpful breakdown! I'm actually dealing with something similar but wasn't sure about the phase-out calculation. When you say "slightly over," how do they calculate that partial contribution amount? Is there a formula or does the IRS have a tool for figuring out exactly how much you can still contribute if you're in that phase-out range? Also, when you mention the tax filing deadline including extensions - does that mean if I file for an extension I get until October to fix this? That would be a huge relief since I'm still trying to figure out my final MAGI with all the year-end adjustments.
Have you considered bankruptcy? I was drowning in tax debt and finally filed for Chapter 7. It's not widely known, but certain income tax debts CAN be discharged in bankruptcy if they meet specific criteria: - The taxes are income taxes - You didn't commit fraud or willful evasion - The debt is at least 3 years old from the date it was due - You filed the tax return at least 2 years before filing bankruptcy - The IRS assessed the tax at least 240 days before filing bankruptcy It saved me from a similar situation. Might be worth consulting with a bankruptcy attorney for a free consultation.
This is risky advice. Business taxes like payroll taxes CANNOT be discharged in bankruptcy, and the "willful evasion" part gets complicated if you knowingly didn't file. Also, bankruptcy absolutely destroys your credit for years.
Thanks for this suggestion. I didn't realize bankruptcy could potentially help with tax debt. I'm going to look into all options mentioned here - installment agreements, Offer in Compromise, and possibly bankruptcy as a last resort. Just having some potential paths forward is already helping with the anxiety.
I really feel for you - that level of tax debt is terrifying, but you're not alone and there ARE solutions. The anxiety and panic attacks are completely understandable, but taking action will help you feel more in control. A few important points based on what others have shared: 1. **Act NOW** - The IRS is actually more willing to work with people who are proactive rather than those who hide. Every day you wait, interest and penalties keep adding up. 2. **You likely qualify for Currently Not Collectible status** given your income level. This would temporarily stop all collection actions while you're in financial hardship. 3. **Document everything** - Start gathering your financial records (income, expenses, assets, debts). You'll need this for any payment plan or settlement option. 4. **Consider the Taxpayer Advocate Service** - This is a free IRS service specifically designed to help taxpayers in difficult situations. They can be your advocate within the IRS system. As a delivery driver making $3,200/month, you're likely judgment-proof for most collection actions anyway. The IRS can't take your primary vehicle if you need it for work, and they can't garnish wages below certain thresholds. Don't let the fear paralyze you. The IRS deals with situations like yours every single day. Take it one step at a time, and remember - this problem has solutions.
This is really helpful advice, especially about the Taxpayer Advocate Service - I had no idea that was even an option. Can you explain more about what "judgment-proof" means? I keep worrying they're going to show up at my apartment or take my car, but I need my car for the delivery job. Also, when you say they can't garnish wages below certain thresholds, what are those thresholds exactly? I want to understand what protections I actually have while I'm working on getting this resolved.
Hattie Carson
Just want to point out that if you do decide to withdraw from your 401k, remember that the plan administrator will usually withhold 20% for federal taxes, which might not be enough depending on your tax bracket. So you'd need to withdraw more than just the amount you owe the IRS to account for the taxes on the withdrawal itself.
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Destiny Bryant
ā¢This is such a good point that people miss! When I did a similar withdrawal last year, I needed $8,000 for taxes but had to take out almost $10,500 to end up with enough after the withholding. And then I still owed more on that withdrawal when I filed!
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Fatima Al-Mansour
I was in a very similar situation last year and ended up going with the estimated payment route rather than touching my 401k. Here's what I learned: even though you're over 59.5 and won't face the early withdrawal penalty, the tax implications can be tricky. The biggest issue is that you'll need to withdraw MORE than the $5,400 you owe because the withdrawal itself becomes taxable income. Plus, depending on your current tax bracket, that additional income could push you into a higher bracket for the year. I'd strongly recommend calculating both scenarios before deciding. For the estimated payment, you can still make the Q4 payment by January 15th through the IRS website - it's actually pretty straightforward once you set up an account. And if your income was uneven this year (sounds like it might have been), look into Form 2210 and the annualized income method - it could save you from underpayment penalties on earlier quarters. The peace of mind from keeping your retirement savings intact and growing was worth it for me, even with a small penalty.
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