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Don't forget about 1031 exchanges! If you're planning to buy another investment property, you might be able to defer ALL of your capital gains and depreciation recapture taxes. I've done this twice now with rental properties. The rules are strict though - you need an intermediary to hold the funds, identify potential replacement properties within 45 days, and complete the purchase within 180 days. But it can be a huge tax saver if you're just planning to roll the money into another investment property anyway.
This is really interesting, but I'm actually trying to exit the landlord game completely. The tenants I've had the last few years have been really difficult and I'm just tired of the maintenance headaches. Was hoping to just pay the tax bill and be done with it. Is there any partial 1031 option where I could defer some but not all of the gain?
Unfortunately, there's no partial 1031 exchange option in the way you're describing. It's generally an all-or-nothing approach. You either exchange the full property or you don't qualify for the tax deferral. You could potentially do a 1031 exchange into a different type of investment property that requires less hands-on management, like a commercial property with a triple-net lease or certain types of investment funds that qualify as "like-kind" exchanges. Some people move from direct ownership to a DST (Delaware Statutory Trust) that still qualifies as real estate for 1031 purposes but operates more like a passive investment.
Make sure you're tracking your "selling expenses" separately from your "closing costs" - they're treated a bit differently for tax purposes. Selling expenses (like real estate commissions, advertising, legal fees directly related to the sale) directly reduce your capital gain. Also, don't forget that if you owned and lived in the property as your primary residence for at least 2 of the 5 years before selling, you might qualify for a partial exclusion of capital gains ($250k for single, $500k for married filing jointly) even though it was a rental at the end! This depends on when you converted it from primary residence to rental.
Wait, I thought once you convert to a rental property you lose the primary residence exclusion completely? Are you saying you can still get part of that $250k/$500k exclusion if you lived there before renting it out?
Yes, you can still get a partial exclusion! The IRS allows you to prorate the exclusion based on how long you used it as a primary residence versus rental property. So if you lived in it for 4 years and rented it for 3 years, you could exclude 4/7ths of your gain up to the $250k/$500k limit. However, there's a catch - any depreciation you claimed after May 6, 1997 reduces your exclusion dollar-for-dollar. This is called the "non-qualifying use" rule and it can get pretty complex depending on when you converted the property. Definitely worth consulting a tax pro if this applies to your situation!
Make sure you understand the difference between personal items, hobby sales, and business income. Each has different tax implications: Personal items: If sold for less than you paid, generally no tax impact. If sold for more, could be capital gains. Hobby income: Report full amount on Schedule 1, but post-2018 you can't deduct expenses (which sucks). Business income: Report on Schedule C, can deduct all legitimate expenses, but you'll owe self-employment tax. Your situation sounds like a mix of personal items and hobby sales. Document everything!!
I'm dealing with a very similar situation! I've been selling off my vintage video game collection on eBay after years of collecting, and I'm so confused about how to handle this tax-wise. Like you, most of my sales are actually losses when I compare what I originally paid versus what I'm getting now. One thing that's been helpful is creating a simple three-column spreadsheet: Original Purchase Price | Sale Price | Net Gain/Loss. This makes it crystal clear that even though eBay will report the gross sales on the 1099-K, the actual taxable amount should be much lower. I've been reading through all these comments and it sounds like the key is having good documentation. I wish I had kept better records over the years, but I'm doing my best to reconstruct what I can using old credit card statements and checking price history on sites like PriceCharting for video games. The hobby vs. personal property distinction seems really important here. Since you collected these for personal enjoyment and are selling due to space constraints (not to make a profit), it sounds like you have a strong case for treating many of these as personal property sales rather than hobby income. Definitely keep that detailed spreadsheet - it shows you're being thorough and honest about tracking actual gains and losses.
This is really helpful to see someone else going through the same thing! I'm definitely going to set up that three-column spreadsheet format you mentioned - that sounds like a much clearer way to present the information than what I have now. You're absolutely right about the documentation being key. I've been kicking myself for not keeping better records over the years, but it's encouraging to know that reconstructing some of the data using price history sites is a valid approach. I hadn't thought of using PriceCharting - I'll have to check if there's something similar for Funko Pops. The personal property vs. hobby income distinction is what's been confusing me the most. It sounds like since we both collected for personal enjoyment rather than profit, and we're selling due to circumstances (space/money needs) rather than as an ongoing business, we might have a good argument for the personal property treatment. That would be such a relief since it would mean only reporting the actual gains rather than having to deal with that gross income reporting issue. Thanks for sharing your experience - it's reassuring to know I'm not the only collector dealing with this mess!
What about expenses though? I deliver for multiple apps too and spend so much on gas and car maintenance that I barely make any profit. Do I still need to pay taxes if my expenses basically cancel out the income?
You only pay taxes on your profit (income minus expenses), not on your gross income. So if your legitimate business expenses truly offset your income, you might not owe any taxes - but you still need to report all the income and expenses on Schedule C. Make sure you're tracking everything carefully and taking all deductions you're entitled to. As mentioned earlier, for vehicle expenses you can either take the standard mileage rate (which is usually better for gig drivers) OR actual expenses like gas and maintenance, but not both. You'll also need to account for the business percentage of use for your vehicle.
This is a really common misconception! The $600 threshold only determines whether a company has to send YOU a 1099 form - it has nothing to do with whether the income is taxable. Every dollar you earn from any source is technically taxable income that needs to be reported to the IRS. So yes, you absolutely need to report that $480 from UberEats along with your $780 from Instacart. The fact that they're from different companies doesn't matter - you'll combine all your gig income on Schedule C as self-employment income. Make sure you're tracking your expenses too! Since you're doing delivery work, your biggest deduction will likely be mileage. Keep a log of your business miles for both apps - you can use the standard mileage rate which is currently 67 cents per mile for 2024. Also track other business expenses like phone bills, delivery bags, etc. One more thing - since you're earning over $400 in self-employment income total, you'll also need to pay self-employment taxes (Social Security and Medicare) on top of regular income tax. Consider making quarterly estimated tax payments to avoid penalties next year!
This is really helpful, thanks! Just to clarify - when you say "every dollar is taxable," does that include small amounts too? Like if I earned $50 from a random one-time gig, that would still need to be reported? And for the quarterly payments you mentioned - is there a minimum income threshold where those become required, or should everyone doing gig work be making them?
Hey! I was in a similar situation when I started doing freelance work as a student. For the W9 form as a SHEIN campus ambassador: **Business name field**: Leave this blank since you're working as an individual, not a registered business entity. **Federal tax classification**: Check "Individual/sole proprietor or single-member LLC" - this is the standard classification for students doing independent contractor work. Just remember that you'll be classified as an independent contractor (not an employee), so SHEIN will send you a 1099 form if you earn $600+ during the year. You'll need to report this income on your tax return and may owe self-employment taxes if you earn over $400. One tip: start setting aside about 25-30% of whatever you earn for taxes, since they won't be automatically withheld like with a regular job. And keep receipts for any expenses related to your ambassador work (like supplies for events or equipment for content creation) - these can be deducted as business expenses! Good luck with the program - it sounds like an awesome opportunity!
This is such a comprehensive breakdown, thank you! I'm also starting a campus ambassador role and had no idea about the 25-30% rule for setting aside money for taxes. That's really helpful to know upfront rather than getting surprised later. One quick question - when you mention keeping receipts for business expenses, does that include things like gas money if I have to drive to campus events for the ambassador program? Or is that too much of a stretch?
Yes, transportation costs for campus events would definitely qualify as a business expense! If you're driving to ambassador-related events, meetings, or activities, you can deduct either the actual costs (gas, parking fees) or use the standard mileage rate (which is 65.5 cents per mile for 2023). I'd recommend keeping a simple log of your trips - date, purpose, starting/ending locations, and miles driven. Even better if you can use a mileage tracking app on your phone. Just make sure the travel is specifically for your ambassador duties and not just your regular commute to classes. Other transportation expenses that count: Uber/Lyft to ambassador events, public transit costs for work-related trips, even parking fees when you're at events for the program. Just keep those receipts and you'll be all set come tax time!
Great advice from everyone here! I went through this exact same process when I started my campus ambassador role last year. One thing I'd add that really helped me was creating a simple spreadsheet to track everything from day one. I set up columns for: date, type of income (commission, bonus, etc.), amount earned, and any expenses. This made filing my taxes so much easier because I had everything organized instead of scrambling to find records later. Also, don't stress too much about the W9 - it's simpler than it looks! The key points everyone mentioned are spot on: leave business name blank, check "Individual/sole proprietor," and use your SSN. SHEIN's payroll team has probably seen hundreds of these from students, so they'll catch any obvious mistakes if you make them. One last tip: if you end up earning decent money from this (like $2000+), consider opening a separate checking account just for your ambassador income and expenses. Makes tracking everything for taxes much cleaner and helps you see exactly how much to set aside for tax payments.
Aisha Mohammed
Quick tip from someone who messed this up their first job: you can always submit a new W-4 later in the year if you realize you made a mistake! I filled mine out wrong and was having wayyy too much withheld from each check. Fixed it in July and had proper withholding for the rest of the year.
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Ethan Campbell
ā¢This is so important! I wish I'd known this my first year working. I had almost nothing withheld and got hit with a huge tax bill. Check your first few paystubs to make sure the withholding looks reasonable - should be roughly 12-22% of your income depending on your total annual salary.
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Zainab Ibrahim
Hey Omar! Congrats on landing your first job! š Since you mentioned you're 22, single, and this is your only job with no dependents, you're actually in one of the simplest W-4 situations. Here's what I'd recommend: 1. **Fill out Step 1** with your basic info (name, address, SSN, filing status as "Single") 2. **Skip Steps 2-4** entirely since you only have one job and no dependents 3. **Sign and date Step 5** That's it! This will give you standard withholding that should be pretty close to what you'll owe. You might get a small refund or owe a little, but nothing dramatic. One thing to watch for: when you get your first few paychecks, look at how much federal tax is being withheld. It should be roughly 12-15% of your gross pay for your income level. If it seems way off, you can always submit a new W-4 to adjust it. The IRS also has a withholding calculator on their website (irs.gov) that you can use mid-year to check if you're on track. Don't stress too much - you've got this! And remember, you can always adjust later if needed.
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Louisa Ramirez
ā¢This is really helpful advice! I'm also starting my first job soon (similar situation - 23, single, no dependents) and was wondering about the same thing. Quick question though - you mentioned checking that 12-15% is being withheld, but how do I know if that's actually the right amount for my specific salary? Is there a way to calculate what percentage should be withheld, or do I just have to wait and see what happens at tax time? Also, does the state I live in affect the federal withholding percentage, or is that completely separate?
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