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Don't forget about exclusive vs. non-exclusive use areas of your house! This tripped me up last year. If you have shared spaces that both you and the tenant use (like maybe a laundry room or shared entryway), those need to be allocated differently than areas exclusively used for rental. I made the mistake of just dividing total square footage, but my accountant pointed out that some areas aren't clearly "rental" or "personal" - they're mixed use. We ended up doing a more detailed allocation based on actual usage patterns and it made a significant difference in what I could claim.
Thanks for bringing this up! I do have a shared laundry area in the garage that we both use. How exactly did you calculate the usage patterns? Did you just estimate or is there a more formal way to track this?
I created a simple log for a few weeks to track usage of shared spaces. Nothing fancy - just noted when the tenant used the laundry room versus when I did. Then I calculated a percentage based on that sample period. My accountant said this was sufficient documentation if ever questioned. For spaces like hallways and entryways, we based it on the overall rental/personal ratio of the exclusive-use areas. So if your exclusively rental areas are 40% of the total exclusive-use space, you'd allocate 40% of the shared hallways/entryways to rental use. That seemed to be acceptable to my accountant, who specializes in rental properties.
One thing nobody has mentioned yet - make sure you're tracking utilities separately if possible! I installed separate meters for electric and gas in my rental portion, which makes it super clear what's deductible. If you don't have separate meters, you need a reasonable method to allocate those costs. Also, be careful about claiming home office deductions if you're already allocating part of your home as rental property. You can't double-dip and claim the same square footage as both rental property and home office.
Hey, H&R Block tax pro here. Taking pictures of your W-2 is totally fine and we do it all the time in our offices! Just to add some practical tips: 1. Use a dark background for better contrast 2. Turn off your flash to avoid glare 3. Make sure ALL corners are visible 4. Check that the employer EIN (the number in box b) is clear - that's super important The reason your dad might be giving you looks is because in the old days, people were paranoid about tax documents and digital security. That's less of an issue with reputable tax services now.
Thanks so much for the tips! I'll definitely use a dark background and make sure to get that EIN number clearly. That might be why my dad's concerned - he's pretty old school about financial stuff and doesn't really trust anything digital. Do you think if I use the H&R Block app to take the photo it'll be better than just using my regular camera app?
Using the H&R Block app to take the photo is definitely better than using your regular camera app. The tax app is specifically designed to capture tax documents with the right angle, lighting guidance, and it will immediately check if the photo is usable for processing. It also keeps the image within their secure environment rather than storing it in your general photo gallery where other apps might have access to it. Your dad's concern is understandable - many people from earlier generations are cautious about financial documents, and rightfully so. You might ease his mind by explaining that the H&R Block app uses encryption to protect your data, and that digital submission is actually the standard method now, even preferred by the IRS.
I took pics of all my tax forms last year and it worked fine but my refund was delayed because the system misread a number on my W-2. Double check what the software picks up from your photos! The OCR isn't perfect. My software thought a 3 was an 8 and it caused a 3 week delay while the IRS sorted it out.
This happened to me too! The software mixed up box 1 and box 3 amounts from my photo. Worth taking 2 extra minutes to verify everything before submitting.
Another thing to consider - even though you don't HAVE to file a return for your child if they're under the threshold, it might be worth starting the habit now. I started filing separate returns for my kids when they were around 14, even when they were under the threshold, just to get them used to the process. By the time they hit college and had actual income from part-time jobs, they already understood how taxes worked. Now my oldest handles her own taxes completely. Plus, it's a great financial literacy lesson to go through their investment statements with them and explain capital gains, dividends, etc.
That's a perspective I hadn't considered. Did you use tax software to file for them or do the paper forms? And did they actually participate in the process or did you just do it for them?
I used free tax software for their simple returns. The first couple years I walked them through it with me sitting next to them, explaining each step. By age 16-17, they did it themselves with me just reviewing after. It was definitely worth it. My 19-year-old now understands tax concepts better than most adults I know. She can explain her withholding, knows which deductions she qualifies for, and even helped her roommate file this year. The investment account discussions led to broader financial literacy too - she's already putting money in a Roth IRA from her campus job.
Just to add an important point - the $1,100 threshold you mentioned is for 2025. Make sure you're looking at the correct year's threshold when making your decision. Also, keep in mind that if you DO decide to include your child's income on your return using Form 8814, you wouldn't be able to take certain credits like the child tax credit for that child. Usually not worth it for small amounts like you're describing.
Just want to add that I used Optima last year and regretted it. They charged me $4,000 to set up a payment plan I could have done myself online in 15 minutes. They weren't upfront about their fees at all - kept talking about how they'd "fight for me" against the IRS, but in reality they just filled out the same forms I could have. Save your money and either DIY with the resources others have mentioned or hire a local tax pro who will charge you a reasonable flat fee. These national tax relief companies make their money from people who are scared and don't realize there are cheaper options.
This is really helpful to know. Did they at least help reduce the amount you owed at all? Or was it literally just setting up the payment plan?
Literally just set up a standard payment plan. When I first called, they made it sound like they could potentially get my tax debt reduced through an Offer in Compromise. But after I paid their initial fee, they came back and said I didn't qualify for that (which I could have figured out myself using the IRS pre-qualifier tool). The worst part was how they dragged everything out. What should have taken maybe 2-3 weeks took over 3 months, all while penalties and interest continued adding up. They claimed this was "part of the process" but I think they were just juggling too many clients with too few staff.
I'm a CPA and want to echo what the former IRS employee said. For a debt of $14,500, you have several DIY options that will save you thousands. If you're comfortable with basic forms, you can handle this yourself. If not, most local tax pros will charge $500-1,000 for uncomplicated cases, which is much less than national firms. The national tax relief companies spend millions on advertising, and guess who pays for those ads? Their clients. Local professionals rely more on referrals and repeat business, so they tend to charge more reasonable fees.
Thank you so much for this insight! After reading all these comments, I'm definitely going to stay away from the big national companies. I think I'll try the DIY route first using the tools mentioned here, and if I get stuck, I'll look for a local EA or CPA. Any specific red flags I should watch out for when talking to local tax pros?
You're making a smart choice! The biggest red flags to watch for with local tax pros are: 1) Anyone who promises they can settle your debt for "pennies on the dollar" without reviewing your full financial situation first. Legitimate professionals know that IRS acceptance rates for major reductions depend entirely on your specific circumstances. 2) Professionals who won't provide a clear, written fee agreement before starting work. Reputable tax pros will outline exactly what services they'll provide and what they'll charge, with no surprises. 3) Someone who seems unfamiliar with Form 433-A/F (Collection Information Statement) or Form 9465 (Installment Agreement Request). These are fundamental forms for tax resolution that any qualified pro should know inside and out. Good luck with your DIY approach! The IRS website is actually quite helpful for setting up standard payment plans.
Taylor To
One thing to keep in mind is that there are different safe harbor requirements depending on your income level. If your AGI was over $150,000 last year, you need to cover 110% of last year's tax liability (instead of 100%) to meet the safe harbor. Also, don't forget that if you're self-employed, you still need to make sure you're covering your self-employment taxes through either estimated payments or additional withholding. Those can add up fast!
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Ella Cofer
ā¢Do you know if the safe harbor is calculated on total tax liability or just income tax? Like does it include the self-employment tax portion too when figuring the 100% or 110% of last year's taxes?
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Taylor To
ā¢The safe harbor amount is based on your total tax liability, which includes both income tax and self-employment tax. So when people talk about covering 100% (or 110% for higher incomes) of last year's tax, they're referring to the total amount on line 24 of your Form 1040 from last year - that's your total tax, including self-employment taxes. That's why self-employment income can really complicate things, because you're responsible for both the employee and employer portions of Social Security and Medicare taxes, which adds about 15.3% on top of your regular income tax.
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Kevin Bell
Just wanted to add that you can also adjust withholding from other sources besides your W-2 job if that's easier. My spouse adjusts withholding from their pension for this exact reason whenever we have unexpected 1099 income. Form W-4P is used for pension withholding, and Form W-4V for certain government payments like Social Security. All of these count as withholding that's treated as paid evenly throughout the year!
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Savannah Glover
ā¢That's a great tip! I didn't realize you could adjust Social Security withholding too. Is there a limit to how much you can withhold from Social Security benefits specifically?
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