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Ask the community...

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Adrian Connor

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Yeah the IRS payment system is super confusing. Just to add another perspective - if you ACTUALLY need to make an estimated tax payment for 2023 but it's now 2024, you're basically out of luck on that front. The last estimated payment for 2023 was due in Jan 2024, and you can't make late estimated payments. At this point, you'd just pay whatever you owe when you file your 2023 return. You might face an underpayment penalty if you should have been making those estimated payments throughout 2023, but there's nothing you can do about that now except pay the penalty.

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Taylor To

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So does that mean I'm definitely going to get hit with a penalty? My accountant wasn't super clear but mentioned something about "making up for missed estimated payments" which is why I was trying to do this in the first place.

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Adrian Connor

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Not necessarily! The underpayment penalty only applies if you owe more than $1,000 in tax when you file AND you didn't pay at least 90% of your current year tax OR 100% of last year's tax (110% if your income is over $150,000) through withholding and estimated payments. What your accountant probably meant was making a payment now toward your 2023 tax liability before you file, which could potentially reduce any interest or penalties. Even though you can't technically make a "2023 estimated payment" now, you can still make a payment toward your 2023 tax bill using the "Amount Due on Return" option, which is what everyone else has suggested.

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Aisha Jackson

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There's actually another way to handle this! If you're expecting to owe for 2023, you can adjust your W-4 at your job to have extra withholding taken out of your remaining paychecks in 2024. This can help cover what you'll owe for 2023 when you file. Go to your employer and request a new W-4. On line 4(c), you can put an additional amount to withhold from each paycheck. This won't eliminate penalties for 2023 if you underpaid, but it helps make sure you have the cash to pay your bill when it comes due.

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That doesn't make any sense. How would changing your 2024 withholding help with your 2023 taxes? Those are totally different tax years.

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Dana Doyle

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@Ryder Everingham I think what @Aisha Jackson means is that increasing your 2024 withholding helps you have more cash available to pay your 2023 tax bill when you file. It doesn t actually'reduce the 2023 tax owed or any penalties, but it s a'way to essentially save up "through payroll" deductions so you have the money ready when your 2023 return is due. It s more'of a cash flow management strategy than a tax reduction strategy.

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Carmen Lopez

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Anyone else think its crazy how much we pay for TurboTax when FreeTaxUSA does basically the same thing??? I switched 3 years ago and have saved like $300 total! The only thing I miss is the audit protection but never had an audit anyway lol

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Does FreeTaxUSA handle complicated returns well? I have rental property income, some stock trades, and a small business. TurboTax handles it all but costs me nearly $200 by the time I'm done with federal and state.

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FreeTaxUSA handles all of those situations pretty well! I have rental properties and stock trades, and it walked me through everything step by step. The business forms are solid too - I use Schedule C for my consulting work. The interface isn't as flashy as TurboTax but it covers all the same tax situations for way less money. For complex returns, you might need their Deluxe version which is still only like $15 compared to TurboTax's $200. Definitely worth trying - you can always start entering your info to see how it handles your specific situation before committing to pay.

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Ravi Sharma

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I made the exact same switch last year and can confirm everything others have mentioned. The first year is a bit of a pain since nothing carries over, but it's totally worth it for the cost savings. One tip that helped me: I kept my previous year's TurboTax return open on a second screen while filling out FreeTaxUSA so I could manually reference things like prior year AGI, estimated tax payments, and other carry-forward items. It made the transition much smoother. Also, don't be surprised if FreeTaxUSA's interface feels a bit bare-bones compared to TurboTax's fancy graphics and animations. I actually prefer it now - less hand-holding but more straightforward. Plus their state returns are only $15 compared to TurboTax's $50+ state fees. You'll love the savings!

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Hey, Italian-American dual citizen here with personal experience on this exact issue! US taxes are definitely a pain, but it's manageable. For me, I use TurboTax to file each year. It costs about $100 for the version that handles foreign income. I take the Foreign Tax Credit instead of the FEIE because Italian taxes are higher than US taxes, so I never end up owing anything to the US.

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Does TurboTax handle all the special foreign forms like FBAR? I tried using them before and got confused about how to report my foreign pension.

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Jordan Walker

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As someone who went through this exact situation (dual US-Italian citizen who didn't know about filing requirements), I can tell you it's definitely stressful at first but totally manageable once you understand the system. The key thing is don't wait any longer - the longer you put it off, the more anxiety it causes. I was terrified for months before I finally dealt with it, and it turned out to be much less complicated than I imagined. Since you mentioned you're 24 and have never filed, you'll likely need to use the Streamlined Foreign Offshore Procedures that others mentioned. This is specifically designed for people in your situation who didn't know about the requirements. A few practical tips from my experience: - Gather all your Italian tax documents (they'll help show you've been paying taxes somewhere) - Make a list of all your bank accounts and their highest balances during each year - Don't stress about giving up citizenship yet - most dual citizens find the annual filing is just paperwork, not actual tax owed The Italian tax system is generally more aggressive than the US system, so between the Foreign Tax Credit and FEIE, you'll probably end up owing nothing. But yes, you still need to file the paperwork annually going forward. Feel free to ask if you have specific questions about the Italy-US situation!

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Yara Khoury

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This is really helpful advice! I'm curious about one thing you mentioned - when you say the Italian tax system is "more aggressive," do you mean higher tax rates overall? I'm trying to understand if that's actually a good thing for US filing purposes since it means less likely to owe anything to the IRS. Also, did you end up needing professional help with the Streamlined procedures, or were you able to handle it yourself? I'm pretty good with paperwork but tax stuff always makes me nervous!

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Jamal Brown

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This is such a common struggle for single-member LLC owners! I went through the exact same confusion in my first year. One thing that really helped me understand the separation was thinking of it this way: your LLC earns the money, but YOU (as an individual) owe the taxes on that income. So the flow should be: Business pays all legitimate business expenses β†’ Business makes distributions to you personally β†’ You pay your individual tax obligations (SE tax, income tax, etc.) from your personal funds. For practical implementation, I set up automatic quarterly transfers from my business account to personal, calculated as roughly 25-30% of my net business income. This covers estimated taxes and prevents me from accidentally spending tax money on business expenses. I also keep a simple spreadsheet tracking each distribution with the purpose noted. The health insurance situation you mentioned is totally normal - many providers only accept personal payments. Just do a clean transfer for the exact premium amount and document it as "distribution for health insurance premium." You'll still get the deduction on your personal return.

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Liam O'Donnell

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This is really helpful! I like the way you explained it as "the LLC earns the money, but YOU owe the taxes." That makes it click for me. The 25-30% automatic transfer idea is brilliant - I've been manually calculating each quarter and sometimes I miscalculate or forget. Quick question about the spreadsheet tracking - do you include both the business-to-personal transfers AND the actual tax payments to the IRS? Or just the distributions? I'm trying to figure out the best way to document everything for my records.

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Mohammad Khaled

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@8ff83affbe5a I track both in my spreadsheet - it creates a complete picture. I have columns for: Date, Business→Personal Transfer Amount, Purpose (like "Q1 estimated taxes"), then separate columns for the actual tax payments with dates and amounts. This way I can see if my estimated transfers matched what I actually needed to pay, and it helps me adjust future quarterly amounts. The key is being able to show the IRS (if ever questioned) that business funds went through proper distributions before paying personal tax obligations. Having both sides documented proves you're not commingling - the business distributed properly, and you paid taxes from legitimate personal funds.

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Ava Johnson

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One thing I learned the hard way is to be really consistent with your documentation from day one. I got lazy with labeling my transfers in year one and it created a mess when my accountant was preparing my taxes. A simple naming convention makes all the difference - I use "Owner Draw - Quarterly Tax Q1 2024" for tax distributions and "Owner Draw - Health Insurance March 2024" for health-related transfers. This way there's never any question about what each transfer was for if the IRS ever looks at your records. Also, don't forget that estimated tax payments should include both your income tax AND self-employment tax portions. I initially was only calculating income tax for my quarterly transfers and got behind on SE tax. A good rule of thumb is to set aside about 15.3% specifically for SE tax plus whatever your income tax rate is. Better to overpay and get a refund than to underpay and owe penalties!

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Zainab Ismail

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This is exactly the kind of detailed advice I wish I had when I started my LLC! The naming convention tip is gold - I've been using generic labels like "transfer to personal" which tells me nothing months later when I'm trying to reconcile everything. Quick question about the SE tax calculation - when you say 15.3%, is that on the full business income or just the net profit after business expenses? I want to make sure I'm setting aside the right amount and not short-changing myself on quarterly payments.

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W2 vs 1099 comparison for 6-month staffing agency contract - which is better?

I just got offered a 6-month contract position through a staffing agency at $60/hr, and they're giving me the choice between W2 employee or 1099 contractor status. The agency would handle my payments while I'd be working at the client company doing a standard office job. This would bring in about $62k for the remainder of the year and will likely be my only income source for this tax year. I'm leaning toward the W2 option, but want to make sure I'm not missing anything. Here's my rough calculation: W2: - $62,000 gross - ($27,700) Standard Deduction - $34,300 Taxable Income - Federal Tax around $3,800 - FICA/SS 7.65% of $62k = $4,743 - Total take home approximately $53,457 1099: - $62,000 gross - ($27,700) Standard Deduction - ($4,382) Self Employment Deduction - ($5,984) QBI (20% of $62,000 minus standard and SE deduction) - $23,934 Taxable Income - Federal Tax around $2,600 - FICA/SS 15.3% = $9,486 - Total take home approximately $49,914 Is there anything I'm overlooking that could make the 1099 option more attractive? Any legitimate Schedule C expenses I could claim to reduce that Self Employment tax? I'm thinking maybe car expenses, but since this is a regular 9-to-5 at the same location every day with minimal work from home, I believe that would just be considered commuting which isn't deductible. Even if I'm technically self-employed, I don't work at multiple locations or have a dedicated home office.

Great analysis! One additional consideration that might tip the scales further toward W2 - worker classification compliance. The IRS has been increasingly strict about proper classification, and if you're working at a single location, using their equipment, following their schedule, and doing work that's integral to their business, you likely meet the criteria for W2 employee status anyway. If the client company gets audited and the IRS determines you should have been classified as an employee, both you and the company could face penalties and back taxes. The company would owe the employer portion of FICA taxes they should have paid, plus penalties and interest. You'd potentially owe additional taxes if deductions were disallowed. Given that this is a standard office job at one location through a staffing agency, the W2 classification is not only financially better but also legally safer. The agency is likely offering the choice to shift some tax burden to you, but the risk/reward doesn't favor the 1099 option in your situation.

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Diego Fisher

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This is exactly what I was worried about! I've heard horror stories about misclassification audits. Since I'd be working their standard hours, using their equipment, and basically functioning like any other employee there, it does seem like the 1099 option might be more about them avoiding payroll taxes than giving me a legitimate business opportunity. The staffing agency probably knows this too - they're essentially asking me to take on the compliance risk while they save on their employer portion of taxes. Between the financial disadvantage and the potential audit exposure, W2 is definitely looking like the safer choice. Thanks for pointing this out - I hadn't fully considered the legal implications beyond just the tax calculations!

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Shelby Bauman

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You're absolutely right to lean toward the W2 option! Your calculations look solid, and most folks in similar situations find W2 more beneficial financially. One thing I'd add - if you do end up with any 1099 work in the future, keep detailed records of everything. The IRS loves documentation, especially for home office deductions and business expenses. I learned this the hard way when I couldn't substantiate some deductions during an audit a few years back. For your current situation though, the W2 route gives you that employer FICA contribution (essentially free money), potential access to benefits, and removes the headache of quarterly estimated payments. Plus, if the contract doesn't get renewed, you'd likely be eligible for unemployment benefits as a W2 employee. The peace of mind alone is worth it - no worrying about whether you're setting aside enough for taxes or if your deductions will hold up under scrutiny. Sometimes the simpler path is the better path!

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Excellent advice about record keeping! I'm definitely going with the W2 option based on everyone's input here. The math clearly favors it, plus I won't have to deal with the complexity of estimated payments or worry about classification issues. One question though - since this is likely to be my only income for the year, should I be concerned about having enough taxes withheld? With a $62k annual rate but only working 6 months, I'm wondering if the standard withholding tables will be accurate for my situation. Should I adjust my W-4 to have extra withheld, or will the standard withholding be sufficient? I'd hate to end up with a surprise tax bill next April even with the W2 route!

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