I'm confused about something - if the quitclaim deed was already executed and recorded before your father passed away, doesn't that mean it was a gift rather than an inheritance? In that case, wouldn't your basis be your father's basis at the time of the gift (not stepped up)? But then if you held it for more than a year before selling, it would be long-term capital gains regardless of when he passed away? I ask because my parents did something similar but I'm not sure how the taxes work.

One additional consideration that hasn't been mentioned yet - since you and your sister both received the property together via the quitclaim deed, you'll likely need to determine how to split the capital gains tax liability when you sell. The tax consequences will depend on whether you're considered joint tenants or tenants in common, which should be specified in the quitclaim deed. Also, make sure to factor in selling costs (realtor commissions, closing costs, etc.) when calculating your capital gains - these can be deducted from your gain to reduce the taxable amount. Given that the property has appreciated significantly since the 90s and you're using your father's original basis, every deduction will help minimize your tax burden. If the capital gains are going to be substantial, you might want to consider an installment sale if your buyers are willing - this allows you to spread the tax liability over several years rather than taking the full hit in 2025.

I just went through this exact situation last week and got my refund! Here's what happened: • Code 840 appeared on Tuesday • Code 846 showed up on Thursday • Money hit my account Monday morning The system worked exactly as intended. If you provided direct deposit info and don't have any offsets (like back taxes or child support), you're getting DD. The paper checks are usually only sent if you didn't provide banking info or if there's a problem with the account you provided.

Code 840 is definitely a good sign - it means your refund has been approved and is being processed! Since you mentioned you provided your bank details when filing, you should receive it via direct deposit. The typical timeline is that code 846 (actual refund issued) appears 1-3 days after code 840, and then the money usually hits your account within 1-2 business days after that. As a first-time filer, don't worry - this is normal processing. Just keep an eye on your transcript for code 846 to appear, which will have the exact date your refund was sent. The IRS system can seem confusing at first, but you're on the right track!

Filed mine electronically about 10 days ago and just got my refund yesterday! Kansas has been pretty consistent with their 7-10 day timeline this year. For anyone still waiting, definitely check your bank account even if the website hasn't updated yet - mine showed up before the status changed online.

Just wanted to share my experience - filed electronically on January 30th and received my Kansas state refund on February 7th, so exactly 6 business days! Used direct deposit and it showed up in my account before the KDOR website even updated the status. For what it's worth, I had a pretty straightforward return with no dependents or unusual deductions, so that probably helped with the quick processing.

This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm dealing with the exact same issue right now. My return has been rejected 4 times for name/SSN mismatch and I was starting to think I was losing my mind. I'm going to try a few of the suggestions here - first checking if my W-2 has any subtle differences from my SS card (never would have thought of that!), and then maybe trying the all caps format that Omar mentioned. One thing I wanted to add - I called my tax software company (H&R Block) and they said this is happening A LOT more this year than usual. The rep told me they've had tons of calls about this specific rejection code. She suggested that if nothing else works, I might need to print and mail my return instead of e-filing, which would bypass the electronic name matching entirely. Really hoping I don't have to resort to paper filing since I need my refund ASAP, but at least it's good to know there's a backup option if all else fails!

I've been following this thread and wanted to share what finally worked for me after dealing with the same rejection nightmare for weeks! After trying everything mentioned here (checking W-2 vs SS card, all caps, waiting 48 hours, etc.), I discovered the issue was actually with how my tax software was handling a suffix in my name. My legal name is "Michael Johnson Jr." but my W-2 just had "Michael Johnson" - the software was automatically adding the "Jr." from my profile but my employer didn't include it. The key was to enter my name EXACTLY as it appears on my W-2, even if that's different from my SS card. The IRS matches against what your employer reported, not necessarily what's on your SS card. Once I removed the "Jr." from my filing (matching my W-2 exactly), it went through immediately. So definitely compare ALL your tax documents (W-2s, 1099s, etc.) character by character against what you're entering in your tax software. Sometimes the mismatch isn't with the IRS records directly, but with how your employer reported your information vs. how you're filing. Hope this helps someone avoid the stress I went through!

I'm currently dealing with a very similar situation - $48k in tax debt from before marriage, and my spouse earns significantly more than I do. Reading through all these responses has been incredibly helpful, especially seeing actual success stories. One thing I'm still confused about is the timeline. For those who got approved, how long did the entire OIC process take from submission to final approval? I know the IRS says it can take 6-24 months, but I'm wondering about real-world experiences. Also, during the review process, did anyone have to provide additional documentation beyond what was initially submitted? I want to make sure I include everything upfront to avoid delays. The proportional expense allocation approach that several people mentioned makes complete sense, and I'm planning to use that method. It's reassuring to hear from people who actually got through this process successfully rather than just reading conflicting information online.

This thread has been incredibly helpful - I'm dealing with almost the exact same situation with about $52k in pre-marital tax debt and a spouse who earns substantially more than me. One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is whether anyone has experience with what happens if you're in a community property state. I live in California, and I'm wondering if that affects how the IRS views household income and assets for OIC purposes, especially for pre-marital debt. Also, for those who successfully got OICs approved using the proportional expense method - did you use any specific language or templates for the explanation letter? I want to make sure I'm articulating the situation clearly to avoid any misunderstandings. The success stories here are really encouraging. It sounds like the key is proper documentation and clearly explaining that the debt predates the marriage, along with showing your actual proportional contribution to household expenses rather than just splitting everything 50/50.