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Has anyone run into limits on how much you can send through these services? I tried to send $12,000 through Remitly last year and got flagged for additional verification that took forever.
Wise definitely has higher limits than Remitly in my experience. I regularly send $5-8k to family in Europe without issues. They did require me to verify my identity with ID and proof of funds the first time, but after that it's been smooth.
I've been using Wise for sending money to Italy for the past two years and can definitely recommend it over Remitly for your situation. For a $3,200 transfer, you're looking at around $25-35 in total fees with Wise, compared to what could be $80-120+ with your bank's wire transfer. The key advantage with Wise is transparency - they show you exactly what you'll pay upfront and use the real exchange rate. I've sent similar amounts to family in Naples and Rome, and the money typically arrives within 1-2 business days. Make sure your cousin has their IBAN ready, as Italian banks are pretty strict about having the correct details. One tip: if this is your first large transfer with Wise, they might ask for additional verification (source of funds, etc.), so factor in an extra day or two for that process. But once you're verified, future transfers are much smoother. Definitely beats PayPal's highway robbery rates!
This is really helpful! I'm actually in a similar situation - need to send about $2,800 to my brother in Milan for his wedding expenses. The verification process you mentioned is interesting - do you remember what kind of documentation they asked for? I want to make sure I have everything ready to avoid delays since the wedding is coming up soon. Also, did you notice any difference in fees between sending to different Italian cities, or is it the same rate regardless of where in Italy you're sending?
Something important that hasn't been mentioned yet - you need to check the TRUST DOCUMENT itself. Many irrevocable trusts have specific provisions about how trust assets should be managed, and some even explicitly address whether properties should be income-producing. As trustee, you're bound by the terms of the trust. If the document says the properties should be maintained for eventual use by beneficiaries, you might be violating your duties by trying to rent them out. Conversely, if it says assets should be managed to produce income, you could be in breach by leaving them vacant. This isn't just a tax question - it's a fiduciary responsibility question. I'd strongly recommend having an attorney who specializes in trust administration review the document before making any decisions about tax treatment.
That's an excellent point I hadn't fully considered. The trust document does state that assets should be "prudently managed to preserve principal while generating reasonable income for beneficiaries" but doesn't specifically address real estate. Would that language suggest I should be trying to rent them out?
Based on that language, yes, you likely have a fiduciary duty to try to generate income from these properties. The phrase "generating reasonable income for beneficiaries" creates an expectation that trust assets will be managed productively, not just held. This actually works in your favor tax-wise, as it supports your position that these are income-producing properties temporarily vacant, rather than personal-use properties. Document your efforts to prepare and market the properties for rental as part of fulfilling your trustee duties. Keep detailed records of all repairs, improvements, marketing attempts, and inquiries - this serves both your fiduciary obligation to beneficiaries and your tax documentation needs.
Be really careful here! I tried something similar with my family trust properties and got audited. The IRS agent specifically focused on whether I had a genuine profit motive or was just trying to create tax losses. What saved me was having documentation showing: 1) Multiple attempts to rent the properties (saved emails with real estate agents, copies of listings) 2) Competitive market analysis showing reasonable rent expectations 3) Records of property improvements specifically aimed at making them rentable 4) A written business plan showing projected income and expenses Without these, I would have been toast. The agent told me they see lots of trustees trying to claim "ghost" rental properties that are really just sitting empty with no real attempt to rent them.
Did the IRS give you any trouble about depreciation specifically? I'm in a similar situation and my accountant says depreciation is the biggest red flag for vacant properties since you can claim it even with zero income.
The depreciation question is huge! In my audit, the IRS agent was actually fine with depreciation as long as I could prove legitimate business purpose. The key was showing that I was actively trying to rent the properties and had reasonable expectation of income. She explained that depreciation reflects the actual wear and deterioration of the property over time, which happens whether it's occupied or not. But you absolutely must demonstrate that these are held for investment/rental purposes, not personal use or just sitting idle with no business plan. What really helped was having my real estate agent provide written documentation that the properties were being marketed as rentals, plus repair invoices showing I was investing money to make them rent-ready. The agent said this clearly distinguished my situation from people just trying to generate paper losses on properties they never intended to rent.
I went through this exact same confusion last year! The key thing to understand is that "effectively connected with U.S. trade or business" has a very specific meaning - it's not just about having a bank account in the US while you're here temporarily. For your situation, Exception 1(a) is almost certainly the right choice. Since your bank gave you a letter stating the account is subject to IRS information reporting, and you're just keeping savings there (not running a business), this falls under passive income reporting. Exception 1(b) would only apply if you were actually operating a business in the US and the bank account was directly related to that business activity. Just being temporarily in the US with a savings account doesn't qualify. I'd recommend going with Exception 1(a) and including your bank's letter as supporting documentation. The IRS is pretty clear that any interest-bearing account subject to their reporting requirements qualifies under this exception, regardless of how much interest you're actually earning.
I just wanted to add my experience since I went through this exact same situation about 6 months ago. Like you, I was completely confused about which exception to choose, and I ended up making it more complicated than it needed to be. After reading through all the IRS instructions multiple times and calling my bank for clarification, I learned that the key question is really simple: Are you using this bank account for business purposes or personal savings? Since you mentioned you're just keeping savings there while temporarily in the US, Exception 1(a) is definitely the right choice. The "effectively connected with U.S. trade or business" language in Exception 1(b) is very specific - it means you're actually running a business or engaged in commercial activity in the US, not just maintaining a personal account. My bank's letter was similar to yours - it just stated that the account was subject to IRS information reporting. That's all you need for Exception 1(a). The IRS approved my application in about 8 weeks with no issues. One tip: Make sure to include a copy of your bank's letter with your W-7 application as supporting documentation. It directly supports your choice of Exception 1(a) and shows the IRS exactly why you need the ITIN. Good luck with your application! You're overthinking it - Exception 1(a) is the way to go for your situation.
This is really helpful advice! I'm in a similar situation and was also overthinking the "effectively connected" language. Your explanation makes it much clearer that Exception 1(a) is for regular bank accounts with passive interest, while 1(b) is specifically for actual business activities. Did you have any issues with the 8-week processing time, or did it go smoothly once you submitted everything? I'm wondering if I should expect any follow-up questions from the IRS or if they typically just approve it if you have the right documentation. Also, when you say "copy of your bank's letter" - did you send a photocopy or did you need a certified copy? I want to make sure I'm including the right type of documentation.
Has anyone done the math on approximate costs for setting up each option? I'm a web developer making around $140k and currently operating as a single-member LLC. My CPA suggested considering C corp status but wasn't clear on whether I should file the election or do a full conversion.
For me in Florida, the LLC with C corp tax election was way cheaper. Just had to file Form 8832 which cost nothing, while maintaining my existing LLC. Converting to an actual C corp would have cost around $750 in filing fees plus I would have had annual report fees of $150 instead of the $138 for my LLC. Also saved on not needing new bylaws drafted (quoted at $1200 by my attorney).
For someone at your income level ($140k), the tax election route is probably your best bet initially. I made a similar transition last year as a freelance consultant earning about $130k. The key consideration at your revenue level is that you're likely not retaining massive amounts in the business yet, so the main benefits you're looking for are probably the self-employment tax savings and ability to deduct health insurance premiums. With the LLC taxed as C corp election, you'll pay yourself a reasonable salary (I do about $85k of my $130k through payroll) and take the rest as distributions. This saves you roughly $2,400 annually in self-employment taxes compared to straight LLC taxation. Plus you get the health insurance benefits others mentioned. The conversion to actual C corp makes more sense when you're planning to retain significant earnings in the business or need the formal corporate structure for investors. At $140k, you're probably taking most profits out anyway, so the simpler LLC structure with corporate tax treatment gives you 90% of the benefits with way less hassle and cost. My advice: start with the tax election, see how it works for a year or two, then reassess if you need full conversion as your business grows.
This is really helpful advice! I'm in a similar situation as a graphic designer making around $125k. One question though - when you mention paying yourself a "reasonable salary" of $85k out of $130k, how do you determine what's reasonable? I've heard the IRS can be pretty strict about this, and I don't want to get audited for setting my salary too low to minimize payroll taxes. Also, did you notice any complications with quarterly estimated taxes when you made the switch? I'm currently paying quarterlies as a single-member LLC and wondering if the timing or amounts change significantly with the C corp election.
Yara Haddad
Have you checked your bank account for deposits? If they paid you by direct deposit or you deposited checks, you should be able to see exactly how much you made there.
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Keisha Robinson
ā¢This is actually a really important point. Your bank statements are valid supporting documentation for income. I've used them before when I lost a W-2. Just add up all the deposits from that employer.
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Fatima Al-Mazrouei
ā¢They actually paid me in cash each night at the end of my shift. I think I deposited most of it, but probably spent some right away too. I'll check my bank statements though - that's a good idea to see what I actually put in my account!
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Khalid Howes
If they paid you cash and you're trying to reconstruct the exact amount, another approach is to look at your work schedule if you kept any record of it. Even something as simple as text messages to friends about your work shifts or calendar entries can help you calculate the total. Since you mentioned working "about three weekends" as a hostess, try to remember your hourly rate and approximate hours per shift. Most hostess positions pay minimum wage plus tips. If you can recall your hourly wage, multiply that by your estimated hours worked to get your base pay, then add any tips you remember receiving. The IRS cares more about you making a good faith effort to report all income accurately than having perfect documentation, especially in situations like this where the employer is no longer available to provide proper forms.
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