this whole thread has me confused even more lol. so if i make $5,000 i dont pay taxes but if i make $20,000 i only pay taxes on the amount over the standard deduction???? the government makes this way too complicated on purpose i swear

Just wanted to add something that might help other newcomers understand this better - the reason tax brackets start at $0 isn't because everyone pays taxes on their first dollar earned, but because the brackets describe how ANY taxable income gets taxed once you actually HAVE taxable income. Think of it like this: the standard deduction ($14,600) acts like a shield that protects your first chunk of income from taxes. Only income above that shield becomes "taxable income" that gets run through the tax brackets. So Connor, with your $5,000 income, your shield (standard deduction) completely covers it, so you have $0 taxable income. Someone making $25,000 would have $10,400 in taxable income ($25,000 - $14,600), and that $10,400 would be taxed at the 10% bracket rate. The system is actually designed to be progressive - it protects lower earners while ensuring higher earners contribute more. Hope this helps clarify the confusion!

Does anyone know if we're supposed to include copies of our I-20 or passport with Form 8843? My DSO gave me conflicting info on this.

As someone who went through this exact same confusion a few years ago, I completely understand your stress! Let me add a few practical tips that might help: First, don't panic about the previous years - the IRS is generally understanding about Form 8843 filing delays when there's no tax owed. I filed mine for 3 previous years all at once and never heard anything back from them. For your current situation, since you mentioned you don't have any US income, you'll only need Form 8843 (not Form 1040NR). Make sure to check the "student" box in Part II and fill out the dates you were present in the US during the tax year. One thing that caught me off guard - if you traveled outside the US during the year (even briefly), you need to list those departure and return dates. Keep your passport handy when filling out the form. Also, since you mentioned visa status concerns - filing Form 8843 actually helps protect your status by formally documenting that you're claiming the student exemption from the substantial presence test. It's better to file late than never! The Austin, TX address mentioned earlier is correct for mailing. I'd definitely recommend certified mail with tracking so you have proof it was sent and received.

Has anyone tried just keeping 2 sets of books? Like one for taxes with max write-offs and another one showing your actual profit for lenders? Not talking about anything illegal just different ways of presenting the same info.

This is such a great question and honestly one that trips up a lot of LLC owners! I went through this same struggle when I was trying to get financing for equipment last year. The key thing I learned is that you DON'T have to choose between tax savings and loan approval - you just need to present your financials correctly. Most business lenders are actually pretty sophisticated about this stuff. They know that smart business owners take legitimate deductions. What really helped me was preparing a simple one-page summary alongside my tax returns that showed: - My net income from Schedule C (the taxed amount) - Add-backs for depreciation, home office, mileage, etc. - My "adjusted income" for lending purposes I also kept clean P&L statements in QuickBooks that showed my actual business cash flow before tax strategies. When I brought both documents to my lender, they immediately understood what they were looking at and had no issues with the loan approval. The bottom line is: take your legitimate tax deductions AND get your loans. You just need to tell the story properly to lenders who understand business finances.

I made the switch from a big bank to a credit union about two years ago and it was one of the best financial decisions I've made. While I didn't go with AA FCU specifically (I joined a local teacher's credit union), the experience has been night and day compared to dealing with Wells Fargo. The biggest difference for me has been the personal service - when I call, I talk to actual humans who seem to care about helping rather than just trying to upsell me on products I don't need. My loan rates have been significantly better too. Got my auto loan at 3.2% when the bank was quoting me over 5%. One thing to consider is that credit unions often have reciprocal agreements with each other, so even if AA FCU doesn't have a branch exactly where you need it, you might still be able to do banking at other credit union locations. Definitely worth looking into their shared branching network. Good luck with whatever you decide! Getting away from those monthly fees alone will probably save you hundreds per year.

I've been with American Airlines FCU for about 2 years now and can definitely echo what others have said about the customer service being excellent. What really sold me was their relationship with the Co-op shared branching network that someone mentioned - you can actually do most banking transactions at over 5,000 credit union locations nationwide, not just ATMs. This has been super helpful when I'm traveling for work. Regarding membership eligibility, I'd definitely call them directly to verify since the contractor relationship can be tricky. When I applied, they were pretty thorough about verifying employment but the process was straightforward once they confirmed I qualified. One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is their financial counseling services - they offer free consultations if you're looking to improve your overall financial picture, which has been really helpful for budgeting and planning major purchases. It's a nice perk that most traditional banks don't offer without trying to sell you investment products. The mobile deposit limits are reasonable (I think it's $2,500 per day for new members, higher once you're established), and I've never had issues with deposits being held longer than necessary like I experienced with my previous bank.

Has anyone used FreeTaxUSA for a part-year state return? I'm in a similar situation (moved from Illinois to Georgia) and TurboTax wants to charge me extra for the state return. Wondering if the cheaper option can handle this type of filing.

I went through this exact same situation two years ago when I moved from California to Florida in August. Here's what I learned that might help you: For California, you'll definitely need to file Form 540NR (part-year resident). The good news is you only owe California tax on income earned while you were a CA resident AND any California-source income after you moved (which sounds like none in your case). The tricky part is determining your exact residency change date. California considers you a resident until you permanently leave with no intent to return. Document everything - your lease start date in Texas, when you got your Texas driver's license, voter registration, etc. Use the earliest defensible date as your residency change. For the $38k you earned in California and the ~3 weeks of remote work for your CA employer after moving, that remote work income should NOT be taxable to California since you were physically in Texas when you earned it. California can be aggressive, but they generally can't tax income for work performed outside the state by non-residents. Keep detailed records of your move timeline - California loves to audit people who move to no-tax states. I got audited and having documentation of my permanent move saved me from owing additional taxes. The audit was resolved in my favor, but it was stressful. One last tip: if you're still confused after reading the forms, consider getting help from a tax pro who specializes in multi-state returns. It's worth the cost to avoid mistakes with California.