


Ask the community...
Something nobody has mentioned yet - you'll need to pay self-employment tax (Medicare + Social Security) on this income too, which is about 15.3% ON TOP OF regular income tax. It really adds up! If you think you'll make more than $1000 in self-employment income in 2025, you should probably make quarterly estimated tax payments to avoid underpayment penalties next year.
I went through the exact same situation last year! The key thing to remember is that the $600 threshold for 1099-K forms is just when PayPal is required to send YOU the form - but you're required to report ALL income regardless of whether you get a form or not. Here's what I did in TurboTax: Go to the "Federal Taxes" tab, then "Wages & Income," and look for "Self-Employment Income" or "Business Income." You'll create a simple business for your art commissions. For the income amount, just add up all your PayPal payments from your transaction history - PayPal keeps good records that you can download. The silver lining is that you can deduct business expenses like art supplies, software, and even a portion of your internet bill against this income. Keep all your receipts! Also, since you made around $1,400 total ($800 PayPal + $600 from the 1099), you'll owe self-employment tax on that, but it's not as scary as it sounds when you factor in the deductions. Don't stress too much - you're doing the right thing by reporting everything honestly!
This is super helpful! I'm actually in almost the identical situation - made about $1,200 from various freelance writing gigs through PayPal and Venmo, no 1099s. Quick question though: when you say "download" your PayPal transaction history, where exactly do you find that? I've been manually going through my account trying to add everything up but there has to be an easier way, right? Also, did you end up owing a lot in self-employment tax? I'm trying to figure out if I should set money aside for next year or if the business deductions help offset it significantly.
fax no printer š¤”
Same situation here! Filed 1/18 through HR Block and got hit with the CTC verification hold too. They told me 6-8 weeks but seeing some people get theirs in 4 weeks gives me hope. Has anyone tried calling the IRS directly to get more info about the hold status? Getting tired of just waiting around with no real updates š¤
This is exactly the type of complex situation where proper documentation becomes crucial. I went through something similar when I converted my condo to a rental property mid-year. The key insight that helped me was understanding that the IRS views this as two separate "loans" once the conversion happens - even though it's technically the same mortgage. The personal residence portion (those 17-18 days) gets treated under the mortgage interest deduction rules with the $750k limit, while the rental portion goes to Schedule E as a business expense. One thing I'd recommend is taking photos of your move-in date to House B and any documentation showing when you started advertising House A for rent. The IRS likes clear evidence of the conversion date. Also, if you're working with a property management company, get a copy of the management agreement as it establishes the "placed in service" date for rental purposes. Keep detailed records of all expenses during the transition period too - things like cleaning, minor repairs, or staging costs can often be deducted as rental expenses once the property is available for rent, even if you don't have a tenant immediately.
This is really helpful advice about documentation! I hadn't thought about taking photos of the move-in date or getting copies of property management agreements. Quick question - when you mention "placed in service" date for rental purposes, does that start from when you first advertise it for rent, or only when you actually get a tenant? I'm planning to list House A for rent right after I move out, but it might take a few weeks to find tenants.
Great question! The "placed in service" date for rental purposes is generally when the property becomes available for rent, not when you actually get a tenant. So if you move out on January 18th and immediately start advertising it for rent, that would typically be your placed-in-service date for depreciation and rental expense purposes - even if it takes a few weeks to find tenants. The key is showing intent and availability. Keep records of your rental listings, any advertising you do, and communication with potential tenants. If there's a gap between when you move out and when you start marketing it (say, for cleaning or minor repairs), document that too. The IRS understands that properties don't always rent immediately. Just make sure you're actually making a good faith effort to rent it out during that period. You can't just say it's "available for rent" but not actually market it and expect to claim rental expenses.
One thing I'd add to all the great advice here is to consider setting up a separate bank account for your rental property expenses once House A is converted. This makes record-keeping much cleaner and helps establish that clear business purpose the IRS looks for. Also, since you mentioned you've been reading IRS publications but getting confused - Publication 527 (Residential Rental Property) has a specific section on converting personal use property to rental use that might help clarify things. It walks through examples similar to your situation with the day-by-day calculations everyone's been discussing. Another consideration: if you're planning to potentially move back into House A someday (like if it's in a great school district for future kids), be aware that there are rules about how long it can be a rental before you lose certain tax benefits when you convert it back to a personal residence. Just something to keep in mind for long-term planning!
This is excellent advice about setting up a separate bank account! I'm definitely going to do that once I convert House A to rental. The Publication 527 reference is super helpful too - I'll check that out since the IRS publications I was reading before weren't giving me the specific examples I needed. Your point about potentially moving back into House A is really interesting. I hadn't thought about that possibility, but you're right that it could be relevant for long-term planning. Do you know off the top of your head what the timeframe is before you lose those tax benefits? Or is that something I'd need to research further in the publications?
Check your wage and income transcript too. Sometimes employers report different numbers than what's on your W2
fr fr their system been acting weird since january
Lara Woods
Carmen, you're absolutely not an idiot - these companies are predatory and specifically target people in stressful financial situations. The fact that you're taking action now shows you're being smart about protecting yourself. Here's my step-by-step recommendation based on what others have shared: 1) **Document everything immediately** - gather all contracts, payment records, emails, and notes from phone calls with Optima 2) **Send written termination notice** (email + certified mail) demanding immediate cancellation and an itemized list of actual services performed 3) **Contact your credit card company today** to dispute charges - explain that services were not rendered as promised 4) **File complaints with FTC, BBB, and your state attorney general** - this creates a paper trail and may help others The good news is you've already contacted a local EA/CPA, which is exactly the right move. They can often resolve IRS issues much faster and cheaper than these relief companies ever could. Don't let Optima string you along with more excuses. Be firm about cancellation and don't accept any "retention offers" - they're just trying to extract more money. You have consumer protection rights, especially if you paid by credit card. Stay strong - you're doing the right thing by getting out now before they take even more of your money.
0 coins
Miguel Ramos
ā¢This is exactly the roadmap I needed - thank you so much for laying it out so clearly. I've been feeling paralyzed about what steps to take, but having a concrete plan makes this feel manageable. I'm going to start documenting everything tonight and send that termination notice first thing tomorrow morning. The relief knowing that others have successfully gotten refunds gives me hope. I was worried I'd just lost that money forever. My biggest fear now is that they'll try to pressure me into staying when I call to cancel - did anyone else deal with aggressive retention tactics? Also, when disputing with my credit card company, should I wait to see if Optima responds to my termination letter first, or start the dispute process immediately?
0 coins
Marcus Patterson
ā¢Don't wait on the credit card dispute - start it immediately while sending the termination letter. Credit card companies have time limits for disputes (usually 60-120 days from the charge), so the sooner you file, the better. You can always provide additional documentation later as your case develops. Regarding retention tactics - yes, they'll absolutely try to pressure you. They might offer "discounts," claim they're about to make a breakthrough on your case, or try to scare you about IRS consequences. Stay firm and remember: if they had legitimate services to offer, they would have delivered results by now, not excuses. Script for the call: "I am terminating services immediately. This is not a negotiation. Please confirm cancellation in writing within 24 hours." Don't explain why or justify your decision - that just gives them ammunition for pressure tactics. If they get aggressive, hang up and stick to written communication only. The fact that you're being proactive about this puts you ahead of many people who get strung along for years. You've got this!
0 coins
QuantumQuest
Carmen, I'm so sorry you're going through this - you're definitely not alone, and the fact that you're taking action now shows real strength, not foolishness. Tax relief scams prey on people when they're most vulnerable and stressed. Here's what I'd add to the excellent advice already given: When you contact your local EA/CPA, ask them to request a transcript of your tax account from the IRS (Form 4506-T). This will show exactly what, if anything, Optima has actually filed on your behalf. Having this documentation will strengthen your case for credit card disputes and complaints. Also, many states have specific laws protecting consumers from deceptive tax relief practices. Your state attorney general's office may have additional remedies beyond just filing a complaint - some states can force these companies to provide refunds or face penalties. One more thing - if Optima tries to claim they've done substantial work when you cancel, demand they provide copies of all documents they've filed with the IRS and proof of submission. Most can't produce this because they haven't actually done the work they claim. You're taking all the right steps. The stress and frustration you're feeling is completely understandable, but you're protecting yourself and potentially helping others avoid the same trap. Keep pushing forward - you've got a whole community here supporting you.
0 coins