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Just a quick note on timing - don't wait too long to challenge this! Council tax demands typically have a 28-day appeal window. If you've already missed that, don't panic, but you should act ASAP. When I had a similar issue, I initially ignored the letters (they were going to my old address too), and by the time I dealt with it, they had already sent it to a collection agency which made everything 10x more complicated. Even a simple email or phone call saying "I'm disputing this and will provide evidence" can stop the escalation process.
This is so important! My friend ended up with bailiffs at her door because she ignored council tax letters for her old student house. Even if you can't pay right away, contacting them to explain the situation stops things from spiraling. They can usually set up a payment plan while you sort out the appeals process.
I went through something very similar last year and the key thing that helped me was getting documentation sorted quickly. Since you mentioned you had individual room agreements rather than a joint tenancy, that's actually really important - it means you should only be liable for council tax proportional to your room, not the entire property. Here's what I'd recommend doing immediately: 1) Contact the council in writing (email is fine) stating you're formally disputing the charge and requesting a breakdown of how they calculated the full property liability when you only rented one room, 2) Gather evidence of your move-out date (job contract, utility bills at new address, anything showing when you actually left), and 3) Request they apply the single person discount for any period where you were the only non-student. The fact that they've been sending notices to your old address when they knew you'd moved is also worth challenging - councils have a duty to use your current address for official correspondence. Don't let them intimidate you with the large amount - individual room liability in a 6-bed house should be significantly less than £1,350!
This is really helpful advice! I'm in a similar situation as a recent graduate and didn't realize that individual room agreements could make such a difference. Quick question - when you say "proportional to your room," how exactly do councils typically calculate that? Do they just divide the total council tax by the number of bedrooms, or is it based on room size/rent amount? Also, did you find the council was cooperative once you provided the right documentation, or did you have to push back multiple times before they adjusted the charges?
Has anyone tried living outside the US to avoid these taxes? I've been thinking about moving to Portugal or something.
I'm an expat living in Germany, and I still have to pay US Social Security taxes because I work remotely for a US company. The US has totalization agreements with some countries that can affect where you pay social security taxes, but it doesn't usually eliminate the obligation entirely. The US and Germany have an agreement where I only pay into one system, but I still can't just opt out completely.
I understand the frustration - those Social Security deductions really add up! I've been researching this topic extensively myself. The unfortunate reality is that for most regular W-2 employees, there's essentially no legal way to opt out of Social Security taxes. However, there are a few legitimate strategies worth considering: 1) **Self-employment structure optimization** - If you have any side income, proper business structuring (like S-Corp election) can help minimize self-employment taxes on that portion of your income. 2) **Maximize pre-tax retirement contributions** - While this doesn't reduce SS tax directly, maxing out 401(k), HSA, and other pre-tax accounts reduces your overall tax burden. 3) **Consider the long-term value** - Social Security provides disability insurance and survivor benefits in addition to retirement income. It's also inflation-adjusted, which many personal investments aren't. I know it's not the answer you're looking for, but the system is designed to be mandatory for most workers. The best approach is usually to optimize around it rather than trying to avoid it entirely. Have you calculated what your estimated Social Security benefits would be at retirement? Sometimes the numbers are better than expected when you factor in the insurance components and inflation protection.
Don't risk it! The company is 100% sending that info to the IRS even if they're late sending it to you. My spouse works in accounting and they always submit 1099s to the government first, then mail them to contractors. You can actually request your wage and income transcript directly from the IRS which will show all income reported under your SSN, including any 1099s filed by companies that paid you.
I've been through this exact situation! The IRS has gotten really sophisticated with their automated matching systems. Even if the company is late sending you the 1099, they've likely already filed it electronically with the IRS. What many people don't realize is that the IRS receives 1099 information months before you get your copy in the mail. Their computers will automatically cross-reference this against your tax return when you file. If there's a mismatch, you'll get a CP2000 notice - and trust me, it's not fun to deal with. My advice: report the income even without the physical form. You can estimate based on your records (bank deposits, invoices, etc.) and file an amended return later if the actual 1099 shows a different amount. It's much easier to handle a small discrepancy than to deal with penalties for unreported income. The $2,800 might seem small, but the IRS treats all unreported income the same way regardless of amount.
This is really helpful, thanks! I'm curious about the timing aspect you mentioned - if the IRS gets the 1099 info months before we do, does that mean they're already expecting to see that income when I file? Like, will their system immediately flag it as missing if I file before getting my copy of the 1099? Also, when you say "estimate based on records," how close does that estimate need to be? If the actual 1099 shows $2,850 but I reported $2,800 based on my bank records, is that going to cause problems?
Has anyone checked if this could be related to those class action settlements against Uber? I know they had a few big ones last year, and sometimes settlement payments get reported on 1099s. Maybe you were included in a class without realizing it?
I went through something similar last year and it turned out to be a combination of identity theft and poor record-keeping on Uber's part. Here's what I learned that might help: First, definitely follow the identity theft steps others mentioned - they're spot on. But also document EVERYTHING. Take screenshots of your Uber passenger account showing you've never been a driver, save all your ride receipts, and print your account history. When you call Uber's fraud department, ask them to pull up both your passenger account AND check if there's a separate driver account using your SSN. In my case, someone had created a driver account with my SSN but different contact info. Uber's systems didn't flag this as suspicious because they treat passenger and driver accounts separately. Also, check if you've moved recently or had mail forwarded. Sometimes identity thieves use old addresses to sign up for gig work, then change the payout method once they're approved. The good news is that once I provided all this documentation, both Uber and the IRS were very responsive. It took about 6 weeks total to get everything resolved, but I didn't end up owing any taxes on income I never received. Don't let this stress you out too much - it's definitely fixable, just requires some patience and thorough documentation.
This is incredibly helpful advice - thank you for sharing your experience! The part about Uber treating passenger and driver accounts separately is something I never would have thought of. I'm definitely going to ask them to check for a separate driver account using my SSN when I call tomorrow. I haven't moved recently, but I did have my wallet stolen about 8 months ago (though I thought I'd taken care of everything by replacing cards and monitoring my credit). Six weeks sounds manageable if I can avoid owing taxes on money I never earned. Did you have to pay any fees to get this resolved, or were all the services (IRS, Uber fraud dept, etc.) free to use? Also, when you say "document everything" - did you need to get any official statements from Uber confirming you were never a driver, or was your passenger history enough proof?
Luca Russo
I've been busking with my acoustic guitar for about 2 years now and went through this exact same confusion! One thing that really helped me was setting up a simple spreadsheet to track everything - date, location, total tips, how much was cash vs electronic, and any expenses that day (like gas to get there, new strings, etc.). For the Venmo/PayPal reporting, just remember that even if you don't get a 1099-K form, you still need to report the income. I actually got my first 1099-K last year when I hit around $2,800 through the apps, but I'd been reporting and paying taxes on my busking income since I started. The self-employment tax does hurt a bit, but don't forget about deductions! I deduct instrument maintenance, transportation costs to my regular spots, even part of my phone bill since I use it to accept payments. Keep all your receipts - they add up faster than you think. Good luck with your music!
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Abby Marshall
ā¢That's really helpful advice about the spreadsheet! I've been kind of haphazardly tracking things in my phone notes, but a proper spreadsheet sounds way more organized. Do you use any specific app or just Excel? And how detailed do you get with the location tracking - like do you note specific street corners or just general areas like "downtown" or "park district"?
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Olivia Kay
ā¢I just use Google Sheets since it syncs across all my devices - super convenient when I'm out performing and want to log things right away. For locations, I get pretty specific actually! I'll write something like "Main St & 3rd Ave" or "Central Park south entrance" because I've noticed some spots are way more profitable than others, even just a block apart. Having that detail has really helped me optimize where I set up. Like I discovered that the corner by the coffee shop brings in about 40% more than the spot by the bookstore, probably because of foot traffic patterns. Plus if you ever get audited, having specific location records shows you're treating this as a legitimate business.
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Amelia Cartwright
This thread has been super helpful! I'm also a street musician (mandolin and vocals) and had no idea about the $600 threshold change for 1099-K forms. I've been putting off dealing with taxes because it seemed so complicated, but reading everyone's experiences makes it feel more manageable. One question - do any of you set up separate Venmo/PayPal accounts specifically for busking, or do you just use your personal accounts? I'm wondering if having a dedicated account would make tracking easier, especially since I also use these apps for personal stuff like splitting dinner bills with friends. Don't want to accidentally report my roommate paying me back for groceries as business income! Also really appreciate the tip about keeping a performance log with specific locations. I never thought about tracking which spots are more profitable, but that's brilliant from both a business and tax perspective.
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