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For anyone using H&R Block software instead of TurboTax, the RSU adjustment is under "Investment Income" ā "Stocks, Mutual Funds, Bonds, Other" ā then when entering the 1099-B, there's an option that says "I need to adjust my cost basis." Select that and enter your W-2 amount. Made this mistake my first year with RSUs and had to pay an extra $1,200. Never again!
Thanks for this! Been using H&R Block and was confused where to make this adjustment. Do you need to attach any additional forms explaining the adjustment?
This is exactly why RSU taxation confuses so many people! You're absolutely right that it feels like double taxation, but you're not actually being taxed twice - it's just a reporting mismatch. Here's the key point everyone's touched on: your cost basis for tax purposes is the $5,200 that was already included on your W-2 as income, not the $0 shown on the 1099-B. When you adjust this in your tax software, you should see your refund go back to the expected amount. One thing I'd add - make sure you're looking at the right tax year. Since you mention 2023 RSUs, ensure the W-2 income and 1099-B sale are both from the same tax year. Sometimes there can be timing differences if shares vest near year-end but sell in January. Also, keep your vesting documentation! Your employer should have provided details showing the exact vesting date and fair market value. This becomes your cost basis and proves the adjustment is legitimate if the IRS ever questions it. The adjustment is standard practice and the IRS expects it for RSU sales. Don't stress about it looking suspicious - this is one of the most common stock compensation tax adjustments.
This is such helpful context! I'm dealing with this exact situation right now and was panicking about the double taxation. One question - if my RSUs vested in December 2023 but I didn't sell them until January 2024, would the W-2 income be on my 2023 return but the 1099-B be reported on my 2024 return? And if so, how would I handle the cost basis adjustment since they're in different tax years?
I think there's confusion happening with your forms. Form 8958 is for community property allocation (splitting income 50/50), while Form 8959 is for Additional Medicare Tax (which only applies if your income is over $200k single or $125k MFS). The reason you're seeing one person owe and one get a refund is probably because of tax credits and stimulus payments going to just one spouse. That's normal even in community property states. Income splitting doesn't mean credit splitting. Does your tax preparer have an EA (Enrolled Agent) or CPA designation? Those credentials mean they've passed rigorous testing and maintain continuing education requirements. A "Tax Return Preparer" might just have minimal training.
I went through a very similar situation last year in Texas (also community property state, MFS filing). The key thing to understand is that Form 8958 is absolutely required for your situation - it allocates community income 50/50 between spouses regardless of who actually earned it. The dramatic difference in your tax outcomes (husband owing $3,200 vs your $4,700 refund) is likely correct because while income gets split 50/50, credits and payments don't. Since you claimed your child, you get the full Child Tax Credit on your return only. Same with the stimulus payments - they go entirely to whoever claims the qualifying dependent. Your extra $25 per paycheck withholding throughout 2023 also only benefits your return, not your husband's. So even though your income was properly split via Form 8958, all the credits and extra withholding are concentrated on your return. The red flag for me is that your preparer initially forgot Form 8958 entirely. This form is mandatory for MFS in community property states - there's no option to skip it. I'd definitely verify their credentials on the IRS directory. For complex situations like yours, you really want a CPA or Enrolled Agent with specific community property experience, not just someone with a basic PTIN. You might want to double-check that Form 8958 properly splits your W-2 income 50/50 between both returns, regardless of who earned what.
This is exactly the explanation I needed! Thank you for breaking down how the income splitting works separately from credits and withholding. It makes so much more sense now why our outcomes are so different even though we're in a community property state. You're right about the red flag with initially forgetting Form 8958 - that should have been automatic for our situation. I'm definitely going to verify their credentials on the IRS directory like you suggested. Do you happen to know if there's a way to double-check that they allocated our W-2 income correctly on Form 8958? I want to make sure they actually split it 50/50 rather than just assigning income to whoever earned it. Also, when you say "complex situations," what other scenarios would require finding a specialist beyond just the community property MFS filing?
This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm in a similar situation with some Apple shares I've held since 2012. Based on all the advice here, I'm planning to donate about $25,000 worth directly to my church rather than selling first. One question I haven't seen addressed: if I'm planning multiple charitable donations this year (both cash and stock), should I bunch all my giving into one year to exceed the standard deduction threshold, or spread it out? My wife and I typically donate about $8,000 annually in cash, but with the stock donation we'd be at over $33,000 this year. Also, has anyone dealt with a situation where you want to donate to multiple charities but some can accept stocks and others can't? I'm wondering if it makes sense to use a donor-advised fund for everything or just for the organizations that can't handle direct stock transfers.
Great questions! For the bunching strategy, with a $33,000 total charitable giving year, you'd definitely exceed the standard deduction ($27,700 for married filing jointly in 2023), so bunching could make sense. You might consider alternating years - do the big stock donation plus your regular cash giving in one year to itemize, then just take the standard deduction in off years when you give less. This maximizes your overall tax benefit. Regarding multiple charities, a donor-advised fund might be perfect for your situation! You could transfer all your Apple shares to the DAF in one transaction (getting the full deduction this year), then distribute grants to all your preferred charities - both those that can and can't handle stock transfers. The DAF handles all the administrative work, and you maintain flexibility about timing future grants. Many DAFs also offer online platforms where you can research and donate to thousands of qualified charities easily. Just remember that once money goes into a DAF, it's irrevocably committed to charity (though you control the timing and recipients of grants).
This is such valuable information! As someone new to stock donations, I'm wondering about the mechanics of actually selecting which specific shares to donate when you have multiple purchase dates. For example, if I bought SPY shares in 2010, 2015, and 2020, and I want to donate $10,000 worth, how do I ensure I'm donating the shares with the lowest cost basis to maximize the tax benefit? Also, does anyone know if there are any restrictions on donating shares that are part of a dividend reinvestment plan (DRIP)? I have some utility stocks where I've been automatically reinvesting dividends for years, so I have dozens of tiny purchase lots at different prices. Would this complicate the donation process, or can I still select the most advantageous shares to transfer? Finally, I'm curious about the timing of when to get the stock appraised for fair market value. Do I need to get a formal appraisal before initiating the transfer, or is using the average high/low price on the transfer date sufficient for tax purposes?
As a military family going through PCS, I'd strongly recommend checking the Treasury Offset Program immediately at 800-304-3107 rather than waiting. Military moves have tight timelines and you need to know exactly what funds you'll have available. Also, since you mentioned you're military, be aware that the Servicemembers Civil Relief Act (SCRA) provides some protections against certain types of debt collection, though it doesn't prevent all offsets. Your base legal assistance office can clarify which debts might still be subject to offset even with SCRA protections. Better to know now than discover a surprise offset when you need those funds for your move!
This is really helpful advice about SCRA protections! I had no idea that military members might have different rules for certain types of offsets. Since you're PCSing soon, you might also want to check with your finance office - they sometimes have resources or contacts that can help expedite getting answers about your refund status. The last thing you want during a military move is financial surprises when you're already dealing with all the logistics of relocating your family. Definitely call that Treasury number ASAP rather than wondering!
Hey Ravi! As a fellow military family who went through this exact situation during our last PCS, I can confirm what others have said - SBTPG absolutely will NOT show offset information. They only receive and process whatever the IRS sends them AFTER any offsets are deducted. Since you're PCSing next month, here's what I wish someone had told me: Call the Treasury Offset Program at 800-304-3107 RIGHT NOW, don't wait. Have your SSN ready and they can tell you within minutes if there are any pending offsets against your refund. This saved us from budgeting incorrectly for our move expenses. Also, definitely touch base with your base's financial counselor or legal assistance office about SCRA protections - some types of debt have different rules for active duty members, though not all offsets can be prevented. The key is knowing exactly where you stand financially before your PCS timeline gets too tight. Good luck with the move!
This is such solid advice, especially the part about calling Treasury Offset immediately rather than waiting! I made the mistake of assuming my refund was just delayed when it had actually been partially offset for an old student loan. Wasted two weeks constantly checking SBTPG and getting more stressed while trying to finalize apartment deposits for my move. The Treasury folks were actually really helpful once I finally called - they walked me through exactly what happened and even helped me understand the timeline for when I'd receive the offset notice letter. Definitely don't make my mistake of waiting and wondering!
Mikayla Davison
Just to clarify something important - when you say "letterhead," are you referring to the actual notice they sent you, or a separate cover sheet they provided? This makes a big difference. A few years ago, I had a similar situation. What they wanted was for me to fax the first page of their notice back with my documents so they could scan the barcode on it. If that's what they mean by "letterhead," you definitely should try to include it somehow. If you no longer have the original notice, I'd suggest calling them to explain. Sometimes they can email you a replacement cover sheet with the proper barcodes. I learned this the hard way after having documents rejected twice because I didn't include their coded cover page.
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Freya Pedersen
I've been through this exact scenario twice in the past year. The IRS will typically accept your documents without their specific letterhead, but you absolutely must include proper identification information. Here's what has worked for me: Create a clear cover sheet that includes: - Your full name and current address - Last 4 digits of your SSN - The complete notice number (e.g., CP2000, LTR 525C, etc.) - Tax year and form type - Date you received the notice - Clear statement: "Response to IRS Notice [Number] dated [Date]" Most importantly, if your notice has a barcode or control number at the top, try to photocopy that section and include it with your fax. The IRS uses these codes for automated processing. I'd also recommend sending it with a fax confirmation receipt and following up in about 10 business days. In my experience, as long as they can clearly identify what notice you're responding to and match it to your account, they'll process it. The 30-day deadline is firm though, so don't delay sending it while trying to get their letterhead. One last tip: if you have access to a local IRS office, you could also hand-deliver the documents, which eliminates any formatting concerns entirely.
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Skylar Neal
ā¢This is incredibly helpful advice! I'm actually dealing with a similar situation right now where I received a CP2000 notice and was panicking about the letterhead requirement. Your point about the barcode is especially useful - I hadn't realized that was so important for their automated processing. Quick question: when you hand-delivered documents to your local IRS office, did they give you any kind of receipt or confirmation that they received everything? I'm worried about not having proof that I submitted everything on time if I go that route instead of faxing.
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