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Filed mine 2/5 and still waiting too! This is my first year filing Nebraska state taxes after moving here from Kansas. The wait is killing me - Kansas usually had mine back within 2-3 weeks max. At least I know I'm not the only one still waiting! š¤
Welcome to Nebraska! Yeah the wait is brutal compared to other states. I moved here from Texas a couple years ago and had the same shock. At least we're all suffering together š Hopefully yours comes through soon!
This is a great question that many parents face when helping their adult children with better banking options. Based on the discussion here, it sounds like the cleanest solution is to contact Marcus directly and have yourself removed as a joint owner, making your kids the sole owners of their respective accounts. Since they're adults (23 and 24) and have been filing their own taxes independently, this makes the most sense. The 1099-INT will then be issued directly to them with their SSNs, and they can report the interest income on their own returns without any complications. If for some reason you need to stay on as a joint owner for backup purposes, then whoever's SSN is primary on each account needs to report the interest income. But honestly, given that they're responsible adults managing their own finances, removing yourself as a joint owner seems like the simplest path forward that avoids all the tax reporting complexities.
This is exactly the advice I was looking for! I think removing myself as joint owner is definitely the way to go. My kids are both financially responsible and have been handling their own banking for years now - I was really just there as a safety net "just in case" but it's creating unnecessary tax complications. Quick question though - if I remove myself now (let's say in the next month or two), will the 1099-INT for this tax year still come to me since my SSN was on the account when the interest was earned? Or does it depend on whose SSN is on the account when the 1099 gets generated at year-end?
Great question! The 1099-INT is typically generated based on whose SSN is associated with the account at the time the form is issued (usually in January). So if you remove yourself as joint owner before the end of the tax year, the 1099-INT should be issued to your kids with their SSNs for the full year's interest. However, I'd recommend calling Marcus to confirm their specific policy on this. Some financial institutions have different cutoff dates for when account changes affect tax document generation. You want to make sure the change happens early enough that the 1099-INT goes to the right person for this tax year. If you're too close to year-end and the 1099-INT still comes to you, then you'd need to handle it as nominee interest for this year, but at least going forward it would be clean and simple with your kids reporting their own interest directly.
I went through this exact situation with my daughter last year. The key thing to remember is that the IRS follows the "whose SSN is on the account" rule, not the "whose money is it" rule for 1099-INT reporting. Since you mentioned you're just there as a backup and your kids are using the funds 100%, I'd strongly recommend calling Marcus and having yourself removed as joint owner on both accounts. Your kids are adults and have been filing independently - they don't really need you as a joint owner for backup purposes, and it's just creating tax complications. If you do this soon (like within the next month), the 1099-INT forms should be issued to your kids directly for this tax year. Just make sure to confirm with Marcus about their cutoff dates for tax document generation. This is definitely the cleanest solution and avoids all the nominee interest reporting headaches that others have mentioned.
This makes total sense and aligns with what others have said. I'm definitely going to call Marcus this week to get myself removed from both accounts. My kids are financially responsible adults and honestly don't need me as a safety net anymore - I was probably being overly cautious. One thing I'm wondering about though - should I wait until after the new year to make this change, or is it better to do it now? I'm a bit confused about the timing since we're already partway through the tax year. Don't want to accidentally create more complications by changing things mid-year.
I appreciate all the detailed responses here! As someone who's navigated this exact situation, I want to emphasize that the 1095-A filing requirement is really important to get right. I made the mistake of not filing one year when I had zero income but received advance premium tax credits, and it caused major headaches when I tried to renew my marketplace coverage the following year. The key thing to understand is that if you received ANY advance premium tax credits (shown in Column C of your 1095-A), you absolutely must file Form 8962 to reconcile those payments. The IRS treats this as mandatory regardless of your income level. If you don't file, they can block your eligibility for future premium tax credits, which could make marketplace insurance unaffordable. For Drake's specific situation with zeros in Column C - you're likely not required to file just because of the 1095-A, but I'd still recommend filing if you think you might be eligible for any refundable credits. Sometimes people with very low income can claim things like the Earned Income Tax Credit or other credits that result in refunds even with no tax liability. The peace of mind from filing and starting that statute of limitations clock is worth it in my opinion, especially since free filing options are widely available for simple returns.
This is really helpful information! I'm in a similar boat with zero income but I'm wondering about one thing - you mentioned free filing options for simple returns. Do you have any specific recommendations? I've been putting off filing because I was worried about the cost, but if there are truly free options that would handle the 1095-A situation properly, that would be a game changer for me.
For free filing options, the IRS Free File program is your best bet! If your adjusted gross income was $79,000 or less last year (which sounds like it applies to your situation), you can use brand-name tax software completely free through the IRS website. Most of these handle Form 8962 for 1095-A reconciliation automatically. Alternatively, if you're comfortable with a more basic approach, you can use the IRS Free File Fillable Forms, which are essentially electronic versions of the paper forms. These work for any income level and are completely free, though they require a bit more tax knowledge. Many local libraries and community centers also offer free tax prep assistance through the VITA (Volunteer Income Tax Assistance) program, especially helpful if you want someone to walk you through the 1095-A situation in person. Just search "VITA near me" to find locations. The key is making sure whatever option you choose can handle Form 8962 if you had any advance premium tax credits. Don't let cost concerns stop you from filing when you need to!
Just want to add another perspective on this - I work as a tax preparer and see this situation frequently. The confusion around 1095-A filing requirements is super common, so don't feel bad about being unsure! One thing I always tell clients is to look at Box 33 on their 1095-A form. If there are dollar amounts there (advance premium tax credits), filing is absolutely mandatory regardless of income. But even if those boxes show zero, you might still benefit from filing to claim the premium tax credit for the first time, which could result in a refund. Also, for future planning - if you expect to have low or zero income again, consider applying for Medicaid instead of marketplace insurance if you qualify. This would eliminate the 1095-A complexity entirely while still providing coverage. Eligibility varies by state, but it's worth checking since many states expanded Medicaid under the ACA. The bottom line is that when in doubt, it's almost always safer to file than not to file, especially with marketplace insurance involved. The penalties for not filing when required (particularly losing future premium tax credits) are much worse than the minor inconvenience of filing an unnecessary return.
This is really valuable insight from a professional perspective! I had no idea about the Box 33 detail - that's such a clear way to determine if filing is mandatory. The Medicaid suggestion is also brilliant for future planning. Quick question - when you mention that people might benefit from filing to claim the premium tax credit "for the first time" even with zeros in the advance payment boxes, how does that work exactly? I thought the premium tax credit was only for people who already received advance payments that needed reconciliation. Can you actually claim it retroactively if you didn't get advance payments during the year? Also, do you know if there's a deadline for claiming these credits, or can someone go back and amend returns from previous years if they missed out on credits they were eligible for?
I went through this exact same situation when I refinanced in August! The key thing that tripped me up initially was making sure I understood the timing correctly. When you have two 1098 forms from the same year due to refinancing, you want to make sure you're not double-counting any interest or missing any deductions. Here's what I learned: 1. The original lender's 1098 will show interest paid from January through the payoff date 2. The new lender's 1098 will show interest from the loan start date through December 3. Any prepaid interest or points from the refinance may be partially deductible in the current year Ryan's advice about using the "Add another mortgage interest statement" feature is spot on. But also double-check that the total interest amounts make sense when you add them up - it should roughly match what you'd expect to pay for the full year on your mortgage amount. One thing to watch out for: if you paid any loan origination fees or discount points on the refinance, those might be spread over the life of the loan for tax purposes rather than fully deductible in year one. FreeTaxUSA should handle this automatically, but it's worth verifying the calculation matches IRS rules.
This is really helpful information! I'm actually in a similar situation but with a twist - I refinanced twice in the same year (once in March and again in September to take advantage of dropping rates). So now I have THREE different 1098 forms. I'm assuming the same principle applies and I just keep adding additional mortgage interest statements in FreeTaxUSA? Also, you mentioned prepaid interest - where exactly does that show up on the 1098 form? I think I might have paid some when I closed on the September refi but I'm not sure how to identify it on the form or if it's automatically included in the interest amount reported.
Yes, exactly! With three 1098 forms you'll just keep using that "Add another mortgage interest statement" option for each one. FreeTaxUSA can handle multiple entries - I've seen people with even more complex situations get it to work properly. For prepaid interest, it typically shows up in Box 6 of the 1098 form as "Points paid on purchase of principal residence." However, if you paid prepaid interest at closing that isn't points, it might just be included in the total interest amount in Box 1, or your lender might have sent you a separate statement. Check your closing disclosure (CD) from the September refinance - prepaid interest is usually itemized there under "Prepaids" or "Initial Escrow Payment." The tricky part with prepaid interest on a refinance is that it's usually deductible in the year paid (unlike points which get spread out), but make sure FreeTaxUSA isn't double-counting it if it's already included in Box 1 of your 1098.
I just went through this exact situation last month! One thing I wanted to add that hasn't been mentioned yet - make sure you keep all your closing documents from both the original mortgage payoff and the new loan. When you refinance mid-year, sometimes there can be timing differences between when interest was actually paid versus what gets reported on the 1098 forms. I had a situation where my original lender's 1098 showed interest through the payoff date, but there was actually a small gap of a few days where I had paid interest that didn't get reported on either form due to the timing of when the new loan funded versus when the old loan was officially paid off. Also, if you paid any mortgage insurance premiums (PMI) to either lender during the year, those are also deductible (subject to income limits) and you'll want to make sure you're capturing those from both loans as well. FreeTaxUSA has a separate section for mortgage insurance premiums that you can access after entering your mortgage interest information. The software does a pretty good job of walking you through everything once you know about the "add another" feature, but definitely review your final tax calculation to make sure the total mortgage interest deduction looks reasonable compared to what you actually paid out during the year.
This is such great advice about keeping all the closing documents! I'm going through my first refinance situation and hadn't thought about potential timing gaps between lenders. Quick question - if there is a gap like you mentioned where interest was paid but not reported on either 1098, how do you handle that in FreeTaxUSA? Do you manually add that amount to one of the 1098 entries, or is there a separate place to enter additional mortgage interest that wasn't reported on a 1098 form? Also, thanks for the tip about PMI - I definitely paid that to both lenders this year and would have completely forgotten about it being deductible!
Gavin King
I noticed nobody mentioned that you could potentially file Form 8275 (Disclosure Statement) with your return if you're going to report amounts different from your 1099. This form lets you disclose items or positions that aren't otherwise adequately disclosed on a tax return. It won't necessarily prevent an audit, but it shows you're being transparent about the discrepancy rather than trying to hide something. Include your calculation method and why you believe the broker's 1099 is incorrect.
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Nathan Kim
ā¢Wouldn't filing that form basically guarantee an audit though? I've always heard that adding explanations and extra forms just increases your chances of getting flagged.
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Owen Jenkins
I went through something very similar last year with a $2,800 discrepancy on my 1099-B. Here's what I learned from my CPA: First, don't panic and file with numbers you know are wrong - that can create bigger problems down the road. The key is to systematically figure out where the difference is coming from. Start by requesting your "realized gains and losses" report from your investment platform for the entire tax year. This is different from just your transaction history and will show exactly how they calculated each gain/loss. Compare this line by line with your records. Common causes of discrepancies I've seen: - Cost basis adjustments from corporate actions (stock splits, spinoffs, etc.) - Reinvested dividends that create new cost basis - Wash sale adjustments that defer losses - Different lot identification methods than what you used If you find a legitimate error after this review, document everything and request a corrected 1099 in writing. Most platforms will issue one if you can clearly show the mistake. If they won't correct it but you're certain there's an error, you'll need to report the 1099 amounts on your return but make an adjustment on Form 8949. Include a clear explanation and keep all your supporting documentation. The worst thing you can do is ignore the 1099 completely - the IRS computer will definitely flag that mismatch.
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Elijah Brown
ā¢This is really helpful advice! I'm dealing with a similar situation where my broker is showing different numbers than what I calculated. One thing I wanted to add - when you mention "cost basis adjustments from corporate actions," how would someone know if this happened to their stocks? I don't remember getting any notifications about stock splits or anything like that, but maybe I missed something. Is there a way to check if any of my holdings had corporate actions that would affect the cost basis calculations?
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