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Ravi Sharma

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This is a really comprehensive discussion! One additional consideration I haven't seen mentioned is the AMT (Alternative Minimum Tax) implications. If you're subject to AMT, the mortgage interest deduction rules can be slightly different, especially for refinances that exceed the original purchase price. Also, since you mentioned the property needs work, be aware that if you use any of the cash-out funds for capital improvements (not just repairs), you'll want to keep detailed records of those expenses. Capital improvements can be added to your cost basis, which reduces capital gains if you sell later. The IRS distinguishes between repairs (deductible in the year incurred if it's a rental property) and improvements (added to basis), so proper categorization matters. One more tip: consider getting a formal appraisal done right after you complete the initial repairs but before you refinance. This establishes the improved value and can help with both the refinance process and your tax documentation.

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Great point about the AMT implications - that's something I hadn't even considered! As someone new to real estate investing, this whole thread has been incredibly helpful. The distinction between repairs and capital improvements is especially important since I'm planning some updates that could go either way depending on how they're classified. Quick question about the formal appraisal timing you mentioned - would getting it done right after repairs but before refinancing potentially help me qualify for a larger loan amount? Or is it mainly just for documentation purposes? I'm trying to figure out if the extra appraisal cost would be worth it beyond just having good records. Also, does anyone know if there are specific AMT thresholds where the mortgage interest deduction gets affected? I might be close to that income level depending on how this year goes.

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Aisha Khan

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Getting the appraisal after repairs could definitely help with your loan amount! Lenders base their loan-to-value ratio on the appraised value, so if the repairs significantly increased the property's worth, you might qualify for a larger cash-out amount. Just make sure the timing works with your lender's requirements. Regarding AMT, the thresholds for 2023 are $81,300 for single filers and $126,500 for married filing jointly. Above these amounts, you start getting into AMT territory. The mortgage interest deduction generally isn't affected under AMT for acquisition debt (which is what yours would be), but home equity debt used for non-home purposes gets disallowed under AMT just like regular tax. One thing to watch out for - if your income is high enough to trigger AMT, you might also be subject to the Net Investment Income Tax (3.8%) if this becomes a rental property later. Something to keep in mind for long-term planning.

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One more consideration that hasn't been mentioned is the timing of your mortgage interest payments for tax purposes. Since you're doing this in two phases (cash purchase, then refinance), make sure you understand when your first mortgage payment will be due and how that affects your current tax year deductions. If you close on the refinance late in the year, you might only have a few months of interest payments to deduct for that tax year. Conversely, if you do this early in the year, you'll get the full benefit. This timing can be especially important if you're close to the standard deduction threshold that others mentioned. Also, don't forget to factor in the closing costs for the refinance. Some of these (like points paid) may be deductible immediately or over the life of the loan, depending on your situation. The loan origination fees and points on a refinance are typically amortized over the loan term rather than deducted in year one, unlike points paid on an original purchase mortgage. Keep all your closing statements from both transactions - the IRS may want to see the paper trail showing the connection between your cash purchase and subsequent refinance if they ever question the deduction.

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This is exactly the kind of detail I was hoping to get! The timing aspect is crucial since I'm planning to do this in early 2024. Getting a full year of interest deductions versus just a few months could make a real difference in whether itemizing beats the standard deduction. The point about closing costs and points being treated differently on refinances versus original purchases is something my lender didn't explain clearly. So if I pay points on the refinance, those get spread out over the loan term rather than deducted immediately? That could change my cost-benefit analysis for paying points upfront. One follow-up question - you mentioned keeping closing statements from both transactions. Should I also keep receipts for the repair work I'm doing between purchase and refinance? I'm assuming those repairs help justify the property value increase for the refinance, but I'm not sure if they're relevant for the interest deduction itself.

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This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm in a similar situation to you, Luca - just started a new job with a 401k and already have a Roth IRA. Reading through everyone's responses has really clarified the strategy for me. What I found most valuable is the consensus on contribution order: employer match first (free money!), then max the Roth IRA for flexibility, then back to maxing the 401k. The point about having both pre-tax and post-tax retirement savings for tax diversification in retirement is something I hadn't really considered before. One thing I'd add for anyone else reading this - make sure to check if your employer offers any additional benefits like HSA contributions if you have a high-deductible health plan. HSAs have triple tax advantages and can be another great retirement savings vehicle on top of your 401k and IRA. Also, don't forget to actually invest the money once it's in your accounts! I made the mistake of contributing to my IRA for months before realizing the money was just sitting in a settlement fund earning basically nothing. Make sure you're actually purchasing investments, not just making contributions. Thanks to everyone who shared their knowledge here - this is exactly the kind of practical advice that makes a real difference!

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Sofia, you bring up such a great point about HSAs! I totally forgot about that option. The triple tax advantage (deductible contributions, tax-free growth, and tax-free withdrawals for qualified medical expenses) makes HSAs incredibly powerful for retirement planning. Plus, after age 65, you can withdraw for any purpose and just pay regular income tax like a traditional IRA. Your point about actually investing the money is spot on too - I see this mistake all the time! People think they're "investing" when they're really just parking money in a cash settlement account earning 0.01%. Whether it's a 401k, IRA, or HSA, you need to take that extra step to actually purchase the investments. For anyone new to this, most target-date funds are a solid "set it and forget it" option if you're not sure where to start with investment selection. They automatically adjust the risk level as you get closer to retirement. You can always get more sophisticated with your investment strategy later as you learn more. Thanks for adding those important details! It's amazing how much there is to consider when you're first getting serious about retirement planning.

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Dmitry Petrov

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You're asking all the right questions, and yes - you can absolutely max out both accounts! The $23k 401k limit and $7k Roth IRA limit are completely separate, so at your $85k income you're well positioned to take advantage of both. I love that you're thinking about this early in your career. Here's what I'd suggest based on your situation: 1. First priority: Contribute enough to get your full employer match (sounds like 6% based on your comment) - this is free money you can't afford to leave on the table 2. Build/maintain an emergency fund if you haven't already - you want 3-6 months of expenses saved before going all-in on retirement contributions 3. Max out your Roth IRA ($7k) - you'll have way more investment options than most 401k plans, plus the flexibility to withdraw contributions if absolutely necessary 4. Then go back and max your 401k if your budget allows The math works out to about $2,500/month total if you max both accounts. That might be aggressive on an $85k salary depending on your other expenses, so don't feel like you have to hit those maximums immediately. Start with what's sustainable and increase over time as your income grows. One practical tip: set up automatic contributions so you never have to think about it. Your 401k can be a percentage of each paycheck, and you can automate the IRA transfer right after payday. Makes it much easier to stay consistent! You're way ahead of most people just by asking these questions. Even if you start smaller and work up to the maximums, the compound growth over time will be incredible.

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Sean Flanagan

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This is such a helpful summary, Dmitry! As someone who's also just starting to navigate all this retirement planning stuff, I really appreciate how you've laid out the priorities so clearly. The step-by-step approach makes it feel much more manageable than trying to figure out everything at once. Your point about the $2,500/month total being potentially aggressive is really important. I was getting caught up in the idea of maxing everything out immediately, but you're absolutely right that it's better to start with something sustainable. Better to consistently contribute a smaller amount than to overcommit and have to scale back later. The automation tip is gold too - I can definitely see how setting it up once and then forgetting about it would make this so much easier to stick with long-term. Takes the decision-making and temptation out of the equation each month. Quick question though - when you mention building an emergency fund before going all-in on retirement contributions, do you think it's okay to do both simultaneously? Like getting the employer match while building up emergency savings, then ramping up retirement contributions once the emergency fund is solid? Or is it really better to fully fund the emergency account first?

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Real talk - get a CPA for this. I tried doing this myself last year and messed it up. Had to pay penalties and interest. With the depreciation recapture, capital gains, and figuring out improvement vs repair classification - it's complicated and the stakes are high with that much money on the line. I spent maybe $400 on a CPA who specializes in real estate and she saved me over $5k compared to what I would have filed. She knew exactly how to handle the pre-sale improvements and found deductions I didn't even know existed.

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I went through this exact same situation when I sold my rental property last year. The key thing to understand is that those pre-sale renovations you described - new kitchen, roof, floors, etc. - are definitely capital improvements that get added to your basis, not deducted as current expenses. Your math looks correct: $237,000 adjusted basis + $47,000 improvements = $284,000 new basis. Sale price of $415,000 minus $284,000 = $131,000 capital gain (plus you'll owe depreciation recapture tax on that $33,000 at 25%). On your tax return, you'll report this on Form 4797 Part I for the sale of rental property, then it flows to Schedule D. The $47,000 doesn't appear as a separate line item - it's just part of your total adjusted basis calculation. Make sure you keep detailed records of all those improvement receipts because the IRS may want to see them if you're audited. One thing that caught me off guard was the depreciation recapture - that $33,000 gets taxed at 25% regardless of your capital gains rate, so budget for that additional tax hit!

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Dmitry Popov

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This is really helpful, thank you! I'm new to rental property taxation and wasn't sure about the depreciation recapture part. When you say it gets taxed at 25% regardless of capital gains rate - does that mean if my regular capital gains rate would be 15%, I still pay 25% on that $33,000 depreciation? And does that 25% apply to the full amount or just the gain portion?

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Sofia Torres

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Has anyone used a Delaware Statutory Trust (DST) for real estate investing after crypto? I've heard it might be an alternative way to get some tax deferral benefits.

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GalaxyGlider

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A DST can be used as a 1031 exchange replacement property, but you'd still face the same issue - you'd need to sell your crypto first (taxable event) before investing in the DST. The DST itself can be useful for future real estate exchanges, just not for the initial crypto-to-real-estate conversion.

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I'm in a similar boat with crypto gains and looking at real estate! One strategy I've been considering is tax-loss harvesting on any underperforming crypto positions to offset some of the gains from my winners before selling. Since wash sale rules don't currently apply to crypto (as someone mentioned earlier), you could potentially sell losing positions, immediately rebuy them, and use those losses to reduce your overall tax liability when you cash out for real estate. Also worth noting - if you're planning to buy rental property, make sure you understand the depreciation benefits you'll get. Real estate depreciation can provide significant tax advantages that might help offset some of the hit you'll take from selling your crypto. It's not the same as a 1031 exchange, but it's still a valuable tax benefit for real estate investors. Have you considered doing this transition in phases? Maybe sell a portion of your crypto this year and the rest next year to spread out the tax impact?

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Ethan Clark

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That's a really smart approach with the tax-loss harvesting! I hadn't thought about using the lack of wash sale rules to my advantage. Do you know if there's a limit to how much you can offset gains with losses in crypto? I know with stocks there's that $3K annual limit for offsetting ordinary income, but I'm not sure how it works when it's all capital gains and losses within crypto. The phased approach also makes a lot of sense - I was thinking all-or-nothing but spreading it across tax years could definitely help manage the brackets. Have you started implementing this strategy yet, or still in the planning phase?

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Does anyone know if the tax treatment changes depending on whether this was inherited directly or through a trust? My dad left his rental properties in a living trust, and I'm trying to figure out if the depreciation rules are different.

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Omar Farouk

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For most revocable living trusts, the property is still treated as if it was inherited directly for tax purposes, including depreciation. The trust is essentially invisible to the IRS in these cases. But if it's an irrevocable trust or another special type, there could be different rules. Worth checking with a professional about your specific situation.

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Amina Diop

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I'm dealing with a very similar situation with my grandmother's duplex that I inherited 6 months ago. She had been depreciating a new furnace and water heater for about 3 years before she passed. One thing I learned that might help you - make sure to get a professional appraisal done close to the date of death if you haven't already. This establishes your stepped-up basis for the property itself, which is separate from continuing the depreciation on those specific improvements your mom was already depreciating. Also, if your mom used a tax preparer, definitely reach out to them first. They should have all her depreciation schedules and can walk you through exactly what needs to continue and what starts fresh. My grandmother's CPA had everything organized in a way that made the transition much smoother than trying to piece it together myself. The IRS Publication 946 has a section on inherited property depreciation that's actually pretty helpful once you get past all the technical language. Good luck with everything!

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Natalie Chen

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This is incredibly helpful advice! I hadn't even thought about getting a professional appraisal done, but that makes total sense for establishing the stepped-up basis. Do you know roughly how much that typically costs? I'm definitely going to track down my mom's tax preparer - I think she used the same CPA for years but I lost touch after she passed. That sounds like it would save me a lot of headache trying to reconstruct everything from scratch. Thanks for mentioning Publication 946 too. I've been avoiding diving into IRS publications because they seem so intimidating, but if there's a specific section on inherited property depreciation, that's probably worth the effort to understand.

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