IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm dealing with a similar situation but wanted to add one important point that might help others. When you remove an excess contribution after the deadline (like you did), make sure you understand the difference between removing just the contribution versus removing the contribution plus any earnings it generated. In your case with code J, since you only removed the $7,500 contribution amount with no earnings, you're correct that it's non-taxable (hence $0 on line 4b). However, if there had been any earnings on that excess contribution, those earnings would have been taxable as ordinary income AND subject to the 10% early distribution penalty if you're under 59½. The fact that Vanguard issued a 1099-R with code J suggests they're treating this as a standard excess contribution removal. Just wanted to highlight this distinction since the tax treatment can be very different depending on whether earnings were included in the distribution. Good luck with your filing - sounds like you're on the right track with Form 5329 and the proper reporting!

0 coins

This is such an important distinction to highlight, thank you! I was actually confused about this exact point when I first got my 1099-R. My excess contribution had been sitting in a money market settlement fund at Vanguard, so thankfully there were minimal earnings (maybe like $2-3 over the whole period). Since I only withdrew the original $7,500 contribution amount and left any small earnings in the account, that's probably why my 1099-R shows exactly $7,500 and why it's treated as non-taxable. If I had withdrawn earnings too, those would have been taxable income plus the 10% penalty since I'm only 28. It's definitely worth double-checking with your brokerage exactly what was included in the distribution when you request the excess contribution removal. Thanks for clarifying this - it could save someone a lot of confusion!

0 coins

Great thread with lots of helpful information! I went through a similar situation with excess Roth contributions and wanted to share one additional tip that saved me some headaches. When you're using TurboTax to handle the 1099-R code J, make sure you specifically select "Return of excess contributions" when it asks about the type of IRA distribution. Don't just select "normal distribution" even though the amount might seem straightforward. TurboTax has a specific workflow for excess contributions that will automatically generate the Form 5329 and handle all the calculations correctly. If you accidentally categorize it as a regular distribution, you might end up with incorrect tax treatment and miss the Form 5329 requirement entirely. Also, the software will ask if you've already paid the 6% excise tax - make sure you answer this accurately based on whether you paid it directly to the IRS or if it's still owed. This affects how Form 5329 calculates your balance due. The 1099-R code J with box 2b checked is exactly what you should expect for this situation, so you're all set there!

0 coins

Great point about the rounding issue! I just double-checked my numbers and thankfully they do add up to exactly 100%, but that's definitely something I wouldn't have thought to verify. It's crazy how a tiny rounding error can trigger IRS scrutiny when you're trying to fix a legitimate mistake. Based on all the advice here, it sounds like my best path forward is to: 1. File corrected K-1s marked "CORRECTED" for just the two affected partners 2. Include a cover letter with our EIN, tax year, and explanation that only ownership percentages needed correction 3. Attach relevant pages from our partnership agreement showing the correct percentages 4. Verify all percentages across all partners still total exactly 100% Thanks everyone for the detailed guidance - this has been incredibly helpful! Much better than the vague advice I was getting from other sources.

0 coins

That's a solid plan! Just wanted to add one more thing - when you send the corrected K-1s to your partners, make sure to include a note about whether they need to amend their individual returns. Since you mentioned the percentage changes (12.5% to 14.2% and 18.3% to 16.6%), depending on your partnership's income levels, this could result in meaningful dollar differences on their personal tax returns. Some partners might need to file amended 1040s if they've already submitted their returns with the incorrect K-1 information. Better to give them a heads up now so they can check with their tax preparers if needed.

0 coins

Just wanted to chime in as someone who's dealt with K-1 corrections multiple times. Your situation is actually pretty straightforward - corrected K-1s are definitely the way to go rather than amending the entire 1065. One additional tip that saved me headaches: when you prepare the corrected K-1s, make sure to use the exact same form version and format as your original filing. The IRS can get picky about consistency between original and corrected forms. Also, consider sending the corrected K-1s to your partners via certified mail so you have proof of delivery - this can be helpful if any questions come up later about when they received the corrections. The advice about documenting everything is spot on. Keep copies of all your correspondence and supporting documents in case the IRS has follow-up questions. In my experience, when you're proactive about explaining the correction and provide clear documentation, the IRS processes these amendments pretty smoothly.

0 coins

Thanks for the tip about using the exact same form version - that's something I definitely wouldn't have thought about! I'm also glad you mentioned certified mail for the partners. Given how much back-and-forth there's been on getting this right, having that delivery confirmation will give me peace of mind. Quick question - when you say "exact same form version," do you mean I should use the same year's K-1 form that I used for the original filing, even if there's a newer version available now? I want to make sure I don't accidentally create another issue while trying to fix this one.

0 coins

I'm so sorry you're dealing with this mess! I went through a very similar situation with my college when they overpaid me for tutoring services. The whole thing is incredibly frustrating because you're essentially being penalized for their payroll mistake. From my experience, here's what I wish someone had told me upfront: **You do have to repay the full gross amount** - Unfortunately, the university is correct that you owe them the entire overpayment including the tax portion. I know it feels unfair since you never actually received that money, but legally they're entitled to reverse the entire erroneous transaction. **But you will get the tax portion back** - When you file your 2024 taxes, you can claim the withheld taxes back through what's called a "claim of right" deduction or credit. It's annoying that you have to float that money until tax season, but you're not permanently losing it. **Don't rush into paying immediately** - This was their error that went undetected for nearly a year! Take time to get proper documentation and understand your options. I successfully negotiated a payment plan by explaining the financial hardship their mistake created. **Documentation is crucial** - Get everything in writing before you pay: the exact overpayment amount, breakdown of tax withholdings, confirmation it was on your W-2, and language stating this is a "wage overpayment correction." Most universities have more flexibility than their initial demand letters suggest, especially when you approach it professionally and explain the legitimate complications their error has created. Don't be afraid to ask about appeal processes or payment plans - the worst they can say is no! Hang in there - this is definitely solvable even though it's a major headache right now.

0 coins

I'm really sorry you're going through this - overpayment situations are such a nightmare to deal with, especially when you're essentially being asked to pay back money you never actually saw! Unfortunately, yes, you do legally owe the university the full gross amount including the tax withholdings. I know it seems completely unfair, but from their perspective (and the IRS's), the entire overpayment transaction needs to be reversed since it was never legitimately your income to begin with. The good news is you're not permanently losing that withheld tax money. When you file your 2024 return, you can recover those taxes through the "claim of right" provisions - either as a deduction on Schedule A or as a credit, whichever gives you the better tax benefit. Here's what I'd focus on right now: **Get rock-solid documentation before paying anything** - You need written confirmation of the exact overpayment amount, a detailed breakdown of all withholdings (federal, state, FICA), and most importantly, language confirming this is a "wage overpayment correction." This specific wording is crucial for your tax filing. **Don't accept their initial timeline as non-negotiable** - This was THEIR payroll error that went unnoticed for almost a year. Most universities have appeal processes or can offer payment plans when you explain the financial burden their mistake created. Taking 60-90 days to handle this properly is completely reasonable. **Consider strategic timing** - Since you're crossing tax years, you might want to consult briefly with a tax professional about whether delaying repayment until January 2025 could simplify everything by keeping it all in the same tax year. Remember, you have more leverage than you think because this whole mess exists due to their administrative failure, not anything you did wrong. Don't let them pressure you into rushed terms that aren't optimal for your situation!

0 coins

Thanks everyone for all the helpful advice! I just wanted to follow up on my original question. I ended up using the exact name from box e of my W-2, including the "INC" part, and my return was accepted without any issues. For anyone else dealing with this - I was overthinking it way too much. The key really is just copying whatever is printed on your W-2 exactly as it appears. Don't try to "clean it up" or make it look nicer - the IRS matching system expects it to be identical to what your employer reported. My refund is already processing, so I'm really glad I didn't second-guess myself and change anything. Sometimes the simplest approach is the right one!

0 coins

Chloe Zhang

•

That's such a relief to hear! I'm actually in a similar situation right now - my employer has "Corporation" spelled out fully on the W-2 but I kept second-guessing whether I should abbreviate it to "Corp" since that's how most people refer to the company. Your experience confirms I should just stick with the full version exactly as printed. Thanks for sharing the follow-up, it really helps ease the anxiety about getting these details perfect!

0 coins

Gianna Scott

•

I just went through this exact same situation last month! I was so stressed about whether to include "LLC" in my employer's name. After reading through all these responses, I can confirm that copying the W-2 exactly is definitely the way to go. One thing that really helped me was taking a photo of my W-2 with my phone and then referring to it while typing in the employer information. That way I could make sure I got every single character, space, and punctuation mark exactly right without having to flip back and forth between documents. Also, if anyone is using tax software that auto-fills employer information, double-check that it matches your W-2 perfectly. Sometimes the software pulls from a database that might have slightly different formatting than what's actually on your specific W-2 form.

0 coins

Omar Zaki

•

Just to add another perspective on this - I work in payroll and see this confusion all the time! Your understanding is absolutely correct. Traditional 401k contributions are what we call "pre-tax deductions" which means they reduce your taxable wages before we calculate federal income tax withholding. Here's a quick breakdown of how it flows: - Gross wages: $78,500 - Pre-tax deductions (401k, health insurance, etc.): -$6,280 - Taxable wages (Box 1): $72,300 The beauty of this is that you're not just saving for retirement - you're also getting an immediate tax benefit by lowering your current year's tax liability. Just remember that you'll eventually pay taxes on this money when you withdraw it in retirement, but hopefully at a lower tax rate. One tip: make sure to keep track of your total 401k contributions throughout the year. For 2024, the limit was $23,000 (or $30,500 if you're 50+), and for 2025 it's $23,500. Your payroll system should stop contributions automatically if you hit the limit, but it's good to monitor it yourself, especially if you change jobs mid-year.

0 coins

Sean Doyle

•

This is incredibly helpful, especially the breakdown of how the deductions flow! I'm curious about the job change scenario you mentioned - if someone switches jobs mid-year and both employers have 401k plans, is there any coordination between the employers to track the annual contribution limit? Or is it up to the employee to make sure they don't go over the $23,500 limit across both jobs?

0 coins

Zainab Ismail

•

Great question! Unfortunately, there's no automatic coordination between employers when you switch jobs mid-year. Each employer only tracks contributions made through their own payroll system, so it's entirely up to you to monitor your total contributions across all employers. If you accidentally exceed the annual limit, you'll need to request a "return of excess contributions" from one of your 401k plans before the tax filing deadline (usually April 15th of the following year). The plan will return the excess amount plus any earnings, and you'll need to include those earnings as taxable income for the year. This is definitely something to watch closely if you change jobs - I'd recommend keeping a running total of your contributions and communicating with your new employer's HR/payroll team about how much you've already contributed for the year so they can help you adjust your contribution percentage accordingly.

0 coins

Andre Dupont

•

As someone who just went through this same confusion last year, I wanted to share what helped me understand the whole picture. Your math is absolutely right - traditional 401k contributions do reduce your Box 1 wages, which is why you're seeing $72,300 instead of your full $78,500 salary. What really clicked for me was understanding that this isn't just an accounting quirk - it's actually saving you real money right now. At your income level, you're probably in the 22% tax bracket, so that $6,280 in 401k contributions is saving you about $1,382 in federal income taxes this year ($6,280 Ɨ 0.22). That's money that stays in your pocket instead of going to the IRS! The Code D in Box 12 is basically the IRS's way of saying "hey, this person put money in their retirement account, so don't tax them on it this year." You don't need to do anything special with that number - just report the Box 1 amount as your wages when you file. One thing that surprised me was learning that I could actually increase my 401k contribution to lower my taxes even more. If you're not maxing out the annual limit ($23,500 for 2025), you might want to consider bumping up your contribution percentage. It's one of the few ways to legally reduce your current tax bill while building wealth for the future.

0 coins

Prev1...12501251125212531254...5643Next