I'm in the same exact situation as you! Filed my Michigan return on February 28th and have been getting that "information not found" error for weeks now despite getting the acceptance confirmation. It's so stressful when you're counting on that money for important expenses like your home repairs! Reading through all these comments is actually really reassuring though - it sounds like Michigan's lookup system is just broken this year but people are still getting their refunds. I'm definitely going to try that early morning checking trick that Anna mentioned, and maybe call that automated line at 517-636-4486. From what everyone's saying, it seems like the refunds are still processing normally even when the status checker doesn't work. Anna got hers in 19 days, and several people mentioned the money showed up before the status ever updated online. I know it doesn't make the waiting any less nerve-wracking, but at least we're not alone in this! Hoping both of us see our refunds soon! 🤞

I'm going through this exact same nightmare with Michigan! Filed on February 25th and have been getting that "information not found" error for over two weeks now. It's so frustrating when you need that money for important things like home repairs! What's really helped me stay sane is reading through all these experiences - it seems like Michigan's lookup system is just completely broken this year but people ARE still getting their refunds. I tried the early morning checking trick that Anna mentioned and actually got a different error message (progress?), so there might be something to the server overload theory. I also called that automated line at 517-636-4486 yesterday and while it didn't give me much new info, at least it confirmed my return was in their system. The whole situation is such a mess but it's comforting to know we're all dealing with the same glitchy system. Hang in there - from the timelines people are sharing, it sounds like refunds are still coming through even when the status checker is useless! 🤞

I just want to echo what everyone else is saying - you're absolutely doing the right thing by reporting that $8.73! I had a similar situation last year with a $7.29 dividend from some old mutual fund shares. The key thing that helped me was realizing that TurboTax's warnings are just the software being overly cautious. When you manually enter dividend information and it shows those yellow warning messages about missing EINs or other details, those are suggestions, not requirements. The IRS only expects you to report what you actually know - the company name and the dividend amount. I was initially worried about not having all the "proper" documentation, but then I realized the company didn't send me a 1099-DIV precisely because they're not required to for amounts under $10. If they're not required to provide it, then I'm obviously not required to have information that only comes from that form. Just enter your company name and $8.73 in the ordinary dividends section, ignore the warnings, and move on. You're being more diligent than probably 90% of taxpayers would be over such a small amount!

I went through this exact same situation with a $6.85 dividend from an old stock position! The key insight that helped me was understanding that TurboTax's interface is designed around the assumption that you have a 1099-DIV form, but the tax law doesn't actually require the form for small amounts. Here's what worked for me: In TurboTax, go to the Income section, then "Interest and Dividends." When it asks if you want to import your 1099-DIV, select "No, I'll enter this information myself." You'll get to a simple form where you just need two things: the company name and the dividend amount ($8.73 in your case). The most important thing I learned is that those yellow warning messages TurboTax shows about missing EINs or other details are just the software being overly cautious. Since companies aren't required to send 1099-DIVs for amounts under $10, you're not expected to have that additional information. Just enter what you know and ignore the warnings - your return will file perfectly fine. You're absolutely doing the right thing by reporting this income. Most people would probably just ignore $8.73, but you're being properly compliant with tax law!

I completely feel your pain! When I got my first "real" paycheck, I literally thought there was an error and called HR to complain. Turns out this is just the harsh reality of adulting that nobody really prepares you for. Those deductions you're seeing are totally normal: - Fed MED/EE = Medicare tax (1.45% of your gross pay) - Fed OASDI/EE = Social Security tax (6.2% of your gross pay) - Fed Withholding = Your federal income tax based on your W-4 The 27% does seem a bit high, but check if that includes other deductions like health insurance, 401k contributions, or other benefits you might have signed up for during onboarding. Sometimes those automatic enrollments can add up without you realizing it. The silver lining is you're in Texas with no state income tax - imagine having to deal with state withholding on top of all this! And remember, if you're getting a huge refund next year, that means you can adjust your W-4 to keep more money in your pocket each month instead of giving the government an interest-free loan. Welcome to the working world - it definitely takes some getting used to, but you'll adapt your budget around your actual take-home pay pretty quickly!

I'm going through the exact same shock right now! Just got my first paycheck from a new job and had a mini panic attack when I saw how little was left after all the deductions. Like everyone else has said, those abbreviations are so confusing - I had to Google "OASDI" because I had no idea what it meant (turns out it's just the fancy name for Social Security). What really helped me feel better was learning that your employer is actually matching your FICA contributions behind the scenes. So while you're paying 7.65% for Social Security and Medicare, your employer is putting in another 7.65% that you don't see on your paystub. That makes those deductions feel less like money disappearing and more like an investment in your future. I also made the mistake of budgeting based on my gross salary instead of my take-home pay. Now I'm scrambling to adjust my rent and expense expectations! Definitely going to use that IRS withholding calculator everyone's mentioning to see if I can get a bit more money in my pocket each month instead of overwithholding. Thanks for posting this question - it's so reassuring to know that literally everyone goes through this paycheck reality check. At least we're all figuring it out together!

Has anyone here actually succeeded in itemizing with Healthshare expenses? We're on Samaritan and paying about $750/month in shares plus had about $5k in expenses that weren't shared this year. But we're still well below the standard deduction threshold for married filing jointly.

Based on my experience with Healthshares and tax law, I want to clarify a few key points that might help you navigate this situation: First, you're correct that your monthly Healthshare contributions ($8k annually) are NOT the same as traditional insurance premiums for tax purposes. However, they DO count as qualifying medical expenses when calculating your itemized deductions, subject to the 7.5% AGI threshold. The $9k you paid out-of-pocket that wasn't reimbursed is also deductible as medical expenses. So you'd have $17k in potential medical deductions ($8k contributions + $9k out-of-pocket), which exceeds your 7.5% threshold of approximately $12,750 (based on $170k income). However, the reimbursed $29k is NOT deductible, regardless of whether you paid providers first and got reimbursed later. The IRS looks at the final economic burden - if you were ultimately made whole through reimbursement, you can't deduct those expenses. Given your income level and the amounts involved, you'd need to carefully calculate whether itemizing would benefit you over the $27,700 standard deduction for married filing jointly. Include your medical expenses above the threshold, state/local taxes (up to $10k), mortgage interest, and charitable donations to see if itemizing makes sense. Keep detailed records of everything, including dates, amounts, and proof of payment/reimbursement. Healthshare arrangements can sometimes trigger additional IRS scrutiny, so documentation is crucial.

Thanks to everyone who's shared their experiences here - this thread has been incredibly informative! I'm particularly grateful for the real-world cost breakdowns and timeline estimates from those who've actually gone through this process. Based on all the advice, I think I'll start with a test shipment of 2 cartons to get familiar with the process before committing to the full 5 cartons I originally wanted. The suggestion to ensure proper declaration and to have funds ready for quick customs payment makes a lot of sense. One follow-up question: for those who've successfully imported tobacco products, did you encounter any issues with your bank or payment method when paying the customs fees? I'm wondering if international tobacco-related charges sometimes trigger fraud alerts or other complications that I should prepare for. Also, has anyone had experience with different shipping carriers (DHL, FedEx, etc.) versus regular postal service for tobacco imports? I'm curious if there are advantages to one method over another in terms of processing time or fees. Really appreciate this community sharing such detailed, practical advice - it's exactly what I needed to move forward confidently!

I've been importing various specialty products from overseas for years, and tobacco is definitely one of the trickier categories to navigate. A few additional points that might help: First, consider the seasonal timing of your shipment. I've noticed that packages tend to get held longer at customs during busy periods like Christmas/New Year and summer holidays when there's higher volume. If you're flexible on timing, aim for quieter periods. Second, keep detailed records of everything - the original purchase price, shipping costs, customs payments, etc. This documentation can be helpful if you decide to make future shipments or if there are any questions from customs. Third, I'd recommend checking if your specific Turkish brand has any UK distribution plans. Sometimes smaller tobacco companies expand their markets, and what's unavailable today might become available through official channels in the future. The advice about starting with 2 cartons is spot-on. Also consider that once you know the process works, you could potentially coordinate multiple smaller shipments over time rather than one large one, which might give you more flexibility and reduce the risk of losing a large quantity if something goes wrong. The community here has shared excellent practical advice - the real-world cost examples are particularly valuable since the theoretical calculations can be confusing.