Have you: • Checked your transcript for codes? • Verified if you have credits subject to PATH Act? • Confirmed your filing was actually accepted on Jan 31st (not just submitted)? • Called the automated refund hotline at 800-829-1954? The 21-day timeline is just a guideline, not a guarantee.

The confusion between business days vs calendar days is completely understandable! As others have mentioned, the IRS does count business days for their 21-day processing guideline, which excludes weekends and federal holidays. However, I want to point out something that might help clarify the mixed information you're receiving: the IRS website itself states that "9 out of 10 refunds are issued within 21 days" without always specifying business vs calendar days in their general communications. This creates the confusion you're experiencing. For your January 31st filing date, counting 21 business days with Presidents Day excluded would indeed land you around February 29th. I'd recommend checking your account transcript online at irs.gov - it will show any processing codes that might explain delays beyond the standard timeline. The transcript is often more informative than the Where's My Refund tool.

Just want to add that if you're using the bike 90% for business, make sure you keep a log of all business trips versus personal use. I got audited last year for business expenses and the first thing they asked for was documentation proving business use. A simple spreadsheet with dates, client locations, mileage between clients, etc. would work great. Also take photos of yourself using the bike for work and save any client communications that mention you arriving by bike. Better to have too much documentation than not enough!

I disagree with some of the advice here about Section 179. I tried to deduct a bike for my delivery business and my accountant said bikes don't qualify for Section 179 because they're not "listed property" according to the IRS. I had to depreciate it over several years instead of taking the full deduction in year one.

Is this a final estate tax return or ongoing? Because if it's the final one, you might want to spend the extra money just to make sure everything is perfect. The last thing you want is the IRS coming back with questions after you've closed everything out.

I went through this exact situation with my dad's estate two years ago and ended up going with FreeTaxUSA after comparing several options. At around $90, it was definitely cheaper than TaxAct's $139.99, and their estate tax module handled the 1041, Schedule D, and 8949 without any issues. One thing I learned is that if this is a simple estate (under $600 in income), you might not even need to file Form 1041 at all - double check the filing requirements first. But if you do need to file, I'd honestly recommend spending the money for e-filing rather than mailing paper forms. The processing is faster, you get confirmation it was received, and if there are any errors, you'll find out much sooner. Also, make sure you're taking advantage of any available deductions for administration expenses - those can significantly reduce the estate's tax liability and make the filing fee worth it in the long run.

I'm confused about something - do we even need to report Roth IRA contributions on our tax return? I thought Roth contributions aren't tax deductible so the IRS doesn't need to know about them unless you're claiming the Savers Credit. Am I missing something?

Just wanted to share my experience since I went through this exact same confusion last year! For your situation with $2,750 in 2018 and $3,600 in 2019, you're absolutely right to enter $6,350 as your basis of contribution (the total of all your Roth IRA contributions) and $0 for basis of conversion since you haven't done any conversions. One thing that helped me was keeping a simple spreadsheet tracking my annual Roth contributions - it makes tax time so much easier when you have that running total ready. Also, double-check if you might qualify for the Saver's Credit based on your income level, since that could get you some money back! The good news is once you understand these terms, future years become much simpler. You'll just be adding each year's new contributions to your basis total.

Has anyone used the IRS Free File program for super simple returns like this? Is it worth the hassle or should I just use one of the popular tax websites?

I'm a tax professional and just wanted to add one more important point that I don't think has been covered yet - make sure to keep a copy of your filed return for your records! Even though this is a simple situation, the IRS recommends keeping tax returns for at least 3 years. With such a straightforward return, you might think it's not important, but having that documentation can be surprisingly useful. I've had clients need old returns for background checks, security clearances, immigration applications, and other situations they never anticipated when they first filed. Also, if you use IRS Free File, make sure to download and save a PDF copy of your completed return before you submit it. The system will let you do this, and it's much easier than trying to get copies from the IRS later if you need them. One last tip - if you're planning to file every year going forward (which you probably will as you enter the workforce), consider setting up an IRS online account now. It makes it easier to track your refunds and access your tax information in the future. You can do this at irs.gov after you file your return. Sounds like you've got a great plan with IRS Free File - you'll have that $12 back in no time!